maor

It was torqued to 37ft as per the manual. 3.6 2004 Carrera. Purchased in summer 2013.

Ln Engineering

Flat 6 innovations

raby engineering

wright tune - purchased here

Is the aim to confuse the customer as much as possible and shift the blame around when something goes wrong ? I don't blame you LN as it looks like you got in on the game alot later.

I've well lost my interest in this now. Easily the quickest way to chuck away $450

Was honestly expecting a just replace the part, we're easily in that sort of price bracket where if it's something as minor as a sump plug with a lead, the seller just sends a new one.

Fixed this.

There was an aftermarket fusetap on the alarm fuse. Moved it away and cleared the airbag light. It's all good now :)

Nothing wrong with checking if there's anything obvious wrong behind the door trim I guess. Can't hurt tbh.

I will take the door apart.

What actually could fail on the airbag? Could put in a used part...

Will check out the wiring etc.

I have these error codes. I am very confident they are related now as I was having intermittent lock issues.

I can't lock my door sometimes when I close the drivers door, when I open it suddenly my car can be locked and unlocked. Tried the keyfob tricks etc, none worked.

Then recently my airbag light has come on. I cleared it but it came back on straightaway.

Haven't read them yet, waiting for cable to arrive but just prepping for if it is this.

Why can't I just put a resistor across the electrical connection for seatbelt buckle to make it thing the seat is always buckled. And then just clear the light?

Still haven't looked into this further due to time of year but I found something interesting yesterday.

Got out the car and couldn't lock it, red light on dash was doing nothing, key was flashing red.

I immediately opened the door and the car red light and key red light began talking. Shut the door and again, unresponsive. Opened the door and responsive.

What on earth could cause that?

Sorry I tried switching to a new case, same design but the actual case is new

Still the same issue.

Tried reverse battery and a new battery.

Only have 1 key

Pretty confusing situation tbh.

No beeps at all

Having issues with key fob.

I'll go for a drive, unlock the car with the fob. Go for a drive and get to my destination, get out shut the door and I wont be able to lock the car. If I go into the car and shut the door then It will let me lock it all of a sudden. Or if I leave the car unlocked and walk off and come back 10 mins ill be able to lock it straightaway.

I send the key to be looked at, microswitches were fine and some bits got soldered but it's made no difference. Battery was changed too.

When I can't lock the car, the red light is flashing on the remote but on the car the red light isn't flashing. Obviously when it is working both red lights are flashing as they should.

So I think I can rule out the remote being the issue. What else could cause this? I can't see anything else that is consistent.

AC

If its cracked then just aluminium weld them back together.......

If it is just bent then its not an issue...

Loren: I did, but that is for a pre 2002 transmission and mine is a 2002 C4S, hence the temperature probe he used will not necessarily work, hence my concern about how to properly measure the ATF level at the right ATF temperature. I just got the written quote and the high cost is due to the ATF ($41/quart :eek: :eek: :cursing: ). Other local prices: filter $98, bolt $7, washer $5, seal $37. They wont sell me the hose as it is considered a tool and they don't sell tools :censored: . Their new quote is now $515 in parts alone (vs $250 in USA, including the hose).

I am going to talk to the indy and ask him to rent me a lift and tools so I can do this job myself with his supervision and then pay the dealer to have the fluid level checked to make sure it is at the right level at the right temperature. Over $1,100 for a ATF change is just vulgarly ridiculous :censored: :soapbox: :cursing: . I don't make $700 a day, so spending a day on this and doing it myself, ensuring that it is done properly is worth the at least $700 I will save from doing it myself.

You are reading too much into this. Yes, the 2002 and later cars require a special hose (9057/1), but when you see one of these up close, you realize it is nothing more than an AC charging hose that depresses the Schrader valve in the fill port, allowing the fluid to flow in. We simply took an old AC hose and put a Motive Power sourced quick disconnect on it so that we could use it instead of the curved fill tube for the earlier cars;

A brand new set of three AC hoses cost about $15-20, the Motive fill tool is available from multiple sources, as it the quick disconnect. So, for a few bucks, you have a tool that will fill either early or late Tips.

As for temperature control, you really do not need a PIWIS to do this; the trans needs to be below 105F when it is filled, so if it is cool, you just fill it until it comes out the overfill port while the engine is idling. when it does, move the gear selector through the gears, and check level again. Then it is Miller time.................

JFP can I double check thiswith you.

Your post intrigued me and so I took the cap off the transmission and took my AC hose from my gauges. It doesn't screw on as it is slightly too small.

Also do you happen to know what colour the transmission fluid was shipped with a brand new 722.6?

That's not what I am saying.

I am saying, replace every 40k with the $100 Pelican option rather than the $500 LN version.

Why spend the extra money if you are changing every 40k. Both parties advise to change every 40k anyway....

was just a fuse :/

It's a scam.

Don't LN say to replace the bearing every 40k or something? Why not just buy the Pelican version for a fraction of the price and change that every 40k?

JFP you appear to be very knowledgeable.

How many litres usually comes out when draining just the pan only?

Where abouts are the ATF lines for supply and return on the 996?

Need a good place to disconnect so I can change all of the transmission fluid manually.

Did it on my Lexus with 10L instead of just doing the 3L out of the pan and went great. Thinking to do the same with the 996.

Was bored so did it again yesterday.

Was actually quite easy, just take the connection off and it just comes right out.

I really need someone to take the plastic cover off their shaft and give it a wiggle and let me know the noise situation as I am now stumped with this shaft being my issue but I am not sure what it should sound like...

This is what mine sounds like

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y2YynTxdFfU&feature=player_embedded#t=0

I took mine to a Porsche garage and they said it's a diff noise as they couldn't find anything loose etc and they played with the wheels and said the kncoking was normal when you spin it in the air. But then he took it for a test drive and game back and said the knock sounds like a diff issue...

The only knockey area on the diff is this shaft area for me and I am not sure what it should sound like.

Can a kind soul chip in !

Can't remember, I think it was low voltage to maf or soemthing like that. I can get it back by unplugging it though