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    San Diego CA USA
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    Audi A7
    Porsche Cayenne Turbo
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    Audi R8
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  1. Hello I have the same issue with my Cayenne turbo 2004, I removed the servotronic fuse and it got "heavier" so the fuse is ok, can you please tell me how accessible is the area where the "wire" got detached? Is it from inside the cabin or through the engine Thanks
  2. Thanks for your reply, I found this video in youtube, it is for an audi allroad, but is pretty similar so now I have a good idea https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mrULAK6Lwk this guy is selling the repair kits for 29 pounds shipped!!!! it is just the two bolts and the two rings, but still a pretty good deal because the VW is selling for like 160 dollars, mine was the one that has everything and cost 132 (If I only knew)
  3. Hi sorry to revive this old thread but I have the same problem, I purchased the kit that had everything (100698010a) because it was cheaper $131 shipped The other one (7lo698030) that includes only the o ring the piston ring and the two bolts was more expensive So I have all these now, the kit arrived with no instructions, the wabco PDF instructions that dasmall posted is kind of confusing, maybe because I haven't gone there and see it. What do you guys think? Should I replace only the two bolts and the rings, or try to replace the whole kit now that I have it, I do not want to make unnecessary work and eventually break something for not wasting the rest of the kit. Thanks
  4. So to understand you, if you are at sea level and the reading is 0.6 that means your boost is 1.6?? 1 Bar from the atmosphere and 0.6 from the turbos, BUT if you are at 1,000 meters above sea level, the reading will be less because the atmospheric pressure will be less?? So the turbos can't produce more than 0.6 bar?
  5. I have never seen 0.8 bar, only 0.6 (maybe 0.7 for just an instant) while upshifting (I compared it with a friends Cayenne and same thing), what is that change over valve process and how much is it?
  6. I need to replace the rear lid actuator, I found these instructions online http://www.mss1.com/rearlidtrim.pdf My question is if I need to remove the upper window frame trim (first 2 pages) in order to remove the lid trim (next 2 pages), I just need to have access to where the actuator is located I do not want to remove every single panel to do so, anybody have experience with this? Thanks
  7. Thanks, I wante to test if after fixing the driver's side turbo oil leak the oil will last longer, this is the first time the oil level warning is not shown in the instrument panel; i guess I will just check the oil from time to time and top up everytime is needed it, I read Loren wrote somewhere that1 quart every 1,000 miles is "normal". Because 107,000 miles is high mileage in my book, I thought the Mobil 1 HM synthetic oil will be a good fit, thanks.
  8. Couple of questions to everybody. I have a CTT 04 and I have been using Mobil 1 European formula 0w-40 since forever, the car has now 107,000 miles and I top up the oil everytime I get the low oil warning light, (aprox every 1,500 miles) and I change the oil when the computer tells me to do so (around 13,000-15,000 miles) I know people think I should do it more often but the dealer said it is fine doing it when the car shows it is due. I keep a log of how often I get the low oil warning light, the other day I was curious why after 2,350 miles I did not get any warning light, I thought because the dealer fixed the driver's side turbo oil leak (very common) and now is not losing oil that fast, but when I checked the oil level was barely hitting the dipstick (below the MIN mark) so I top up the oil. So first thing I though is the oil level sensor might go bad, but after reading this forum I found out the sensor is not only for oil level but for oil temperature as well and the gauge is working perfectly, maybe the sensor is fine and it was about to show the warning in the coming days, but I am pretty sure the level never went that low before (it used to appear when the level was at barely MIN mark not below it) So here comes the questions: 1 How can I troubleshoot it is the oil level sensor? the service is due in 1,200 miles and I can install the new sensor when the oil is drained. 2 Should I use Mobil 1 high mileage instead of the european formula (there is no 0w-40 but there is 10W-40) I live in California and once a year I go to the mountains to ski, so the car does not see cold weather 99% of the year. Thanks.
  9. sorry to relive and old thread but after start up, there is a specific sequence executed by the two control units for the lights. First the lights are fired on and then the lights are depressed to their lowest angle, raised to their highest angle and then settle into the "level" position that your Porsche tech programmed into the control units Then while the car is being driven and the Bi-Xenon lights are "on", those programmed, "level reference points" are constantly compared to the data presented via the CAN-Bus by the level sensors at the front and rear left corners of the suspension. When deviations occur that indicate that the vehicle is "tilted" up or down relative to the level position, then the light beams are deflected down (if the vehicle has assumed an upward angle) or deflected up (if the vehicle has assumed a downward angle). This is the normal sequence, mine does that but AFTER leveling at the programmed reference point, like almost 50% of the time my right headlight stays there and everything is allright, but 50% of the time immediately after leveling it starts going down and level at a lower point, not as low as the lowest but lower than it should be, like the right headlight "thinks" the car is tilted up so it needs to compensate lowering the light, but the ODD thing is that only happends on the right headlight, and as far as I know the level sensor controls BOTH headlights, any ideas???
  10. sorry to reopen an old thread, but I have the same ATF cooler leak, is there a way to fix it without replacing the cooler (advised by the dealer) and 2,500 damage?? maybe welding the leak? any ideas? thanks
  11. The tech checked the brake light switch and the lights were properly working while depressing the brake. But regarding the "Switch selector lever to position P" when it is indeed in Parking and not allowing me to take out the key problem, the tech could not replicate the problem on site so now I am picking it up tomorrow, I sent him a copy of this thread and he said that this is a common issue with this car, and I am looking at about $650 repair and he couldnt guarantee it that is the only issue since he could not verify the problem consistently. I really do not know if he was refering to the solenoids replacement fix or to the magnet fix above? Which repair are you referring to? Any other ideas? Thanks
  12. Hello this is what happened to me, recently I started the engine tried to select a gear and the gear lever was stuck in Parking, like when you are not depressing the brake pedal to release the gear lever, eventually the fault went away and I was able to select a gear, I checked the manual and it says the following "In the event of an electrical fault, the selector lever lock in position P can be manually released for towing the vehicle for example" so I assumed I just had a random "electrical fault". But then happened exactly what is described here, I stopped the vehicle and tried to get my key out and the system will not release it, showing "switch selector lever to position P", and it is at the shop, right now, I have no idea what could have happened, but the tech said that these are two different issues, I would think they are related because both happened with the gear lever within one week. Anyways, can you please tell me what is it that happened with your cayennes back then? I know it has been a whie but I will appreciate it, also i found this "switch selector level to position P" message while in Parking happens to Touaregs as well (http://www.clubtouar...on-p-19031.html), so I am sure it is a design flaw. thanks
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