Deanski

I did the same install on my 2006 C2s which has Bose, Nav and CD-Changer. I had the dealer do it and had them put the unit on top of the changer.

Be advised that due to location of the sat antenna, it can get a bit spotty with coverage. More so when trees are over the road.

Still, sure beats FM.

Other than listening to the engine via sport exhaust, the Sirius was great to have on long drives.

Deanski

Here is the install guide for the Aerokit which is as close to the GT3 in one respect except maybe the air inlet.

This should assist your shop in installing the rear deck.

Regards,

Deanski

Hi,

have the P-Zero N1 on my '05 C2S and they are handling well - rear ones lasted 4 years/20k miles. The front tires are still in good condition (4-5mm). They get a lot of german autobahn and handle well in the 150mph+ area as long as PASM is in sport mode. Noise is not an issue for me as the engine at 6000 rpm is the dominant sound source.

Good luck with your next set of tires, I recommend to use a set of the porsche approved tires as they get tested for handling by Porsche and are definitly the live insurance when your p-car travels at high speed.

Tobias

Sounds like flat-spotting of the tires. I had them on my C2S and they flat-spot easly. I had to use Tire Cradles to prevent this. Once warmed up, it starts to go away. Still, the Tire Cradles did the trick!

Once they got down, they get loud, lots of noise near end of life. I went with Bridgestone RE050A's since the PS-2" were too much for a tire. The RE050A's are a great tire, and handle quite well. A whole lot less than the PS-2's and yes the tread wear is a bit low, but still love these tires. Now, I think they are up to N1 by now.

Deanski

Check out the Porter Cable 7424 XP Dual Action Orbital Polisher.

The Meguiar's polisher used to be a rebranded Porter Cable DA orbital polisher, just costing more and with a lifetime warranty. It's a great product

Phillip - you're welcome to try mine out some weekend if you want to check it out before buying one

The Porter Cable or "PC" 7424XP is one of the better orbital polishers for someone moving from hand to machine polishing and has the most selection of backing plates and pads.

See this link for more info: 7424XP info

Porsche paint is very soft, so you want to use polishing pads first before you need a cutting pad for defects.

As for polishes, I use Menzerna polishes. These are German polishes which can really make any finish look stunning once you learn how to use it. The range starts from a cutting polish to a very fine finish polish.

If you need more info, go to Autopia.org to gain more info and tips.

Regards,

Deanski

It kills me to hear or see 997's or other high $$ cars in this condition and then owners just being cheap or lazy, but can purchase a high value vehicle and just neglect it for so long, it just burns me up.

Have the car maintained both mechanical and visual, this way, you'll get more enjoyment out of the car.

Have a professional detailer clean and detail the car, then work out an arrangement with one to even come to your home or business to clean it when it just needs a quick wash and QD.

Never take it through a tunnel wash, most will not handle the wheels as they are too wide for the guides. The soaps used are very high on the scale to remove road dirt w/o physical contact with "brushes". Some wash sites will "wash it on the side" which is worse as they use dirty mitts and water to clean it. You may as well have the guy take that 16lb terry buffer and ruin the paint.

Porsche paint is very soft, let a professional do it for you. If you can afford the car, afford the correct washing!

Deanski

I'm in a bind as my remote garage has no power at all and I've been looking for a good solar powered maintainer for the car. So far, nothing. A few may work fine, but need to add longer cables to reach roof outside.

****, looks like I should remove the battery and keep the hood cracked with the Porsche cover over the darn thing.

One of these days I'll find a good solar charger to do the job.

Deanski

I have a 2006 C2S with Bose, 6-CD Changer and Nav and also had the Sirus installed into(above) the Nav unit.

Your Sirus kit will have a new antenna to replace the one for Nav, as it has all together (Nav, Sat).

There has been several posts on both here and Rennlist with pics on how to do the install.

I however, let my dealer do it (even though not approved by PCNA) and had them enable it via the PWIS tester.

You'll find that with the antenna location, drop-outs happen often, more so under tree lined roads.

I'd like to see if I can use the new XM housing on the '09 series to mount a Sirius antenna. That would resolve all the drop-outs I have as well as others who've done it.

Look in Rennlist 997 forum and search for Sirus or 1080addict username.

Regards,

Deanski

I have film over my headlights (Xenon) and never had problems with them.

A good reliable shop will install the correct film on the headlight lens without issue.

I have film all over the front nose, headlights, side mirrors, door cups, rear "dog legs" and side rocker panels. A whole lot cheaper than repainting a panel!

Deanski

Yes, it does sound as if the muffler area may be at fault. Some even had defective muffler cans.

Your dealer can isolate this with the new remote microphone systems some dealers have now to track down issues such as this.

Let us know what they find.

Deanski

Wait, the N0's has two additional belts? So what does N1 have in changes between N0 and N1 to be specific? N1's deleted the two additional belts? What do they gain from N0's?

I have new N0's on my car and love these tires! Sure a whole lot cheaper than PS/2's and still perform very well.

Deanski

The Tire Rack is out of the rears for an S..anyone know of another trusted and competitive source?

Thanks

I had the same issue with Bridgestone RE050A 305/30/19 and always showed as Backordered.

My dealer had to order them. And guess where they came from? Tire Rack!

What I've been told is PCNA has requested from tire mfgs to allocate enough tires for Porsche owners. The only way to get N spec tires from Tire Rack was to have the dealer contact PCNA with your VIN, which then PCNA releases the tires from Tire Rack.

You can look elsewhere but this is what I found. My dealer offered the same prices as Tire Rack + shipping.

Regards,

Deanski

I would do all four rotors when you change it out along with the calipers and other related parts to mount them correctly.

One thing I would look into is the brake bias and the regulator that distributes the brake fluid between front/rear. It should be the same, but I'd look into it to be sure they are the same parts. The Master Cylinder may also be different due to size of the calipers and amount of pistons in them. Booster should be same, but the MC must be different to provide the added fluid.

Regards,

Deanski

I had "W737" done on my MY06 C2S just last month.

It shows on the invoice: W737 - Re-Program DME FC: W7370660001.

This was for the fan issue in the engine bay.

Regards,

Deanski

I too have PCCB's on my C2S. One reason was the reduced weight, high performance use on track (no fade), no brake dust, no rotor rust or hat rust.

Now, so you know, these are no better in stopping power than steels. There was an article in one of the automotive magazines that did brake comparisons and the PCCB's take a bit longer to come to a complete stop over steels which were shorter. PCCB's to work their best is to get them warm/hot.

So, if you are going to track the car, want lower unsprung weight, no brake dust, no rusting and need brake to perform w/o fade on a track then PCCB's are the answer. Add some lightweight wheels and it's a great combo for serious driving.

Sure, the amount for these you could put elsewhere in the car. It's up to what you want and how you want the car to perform in relation to your driving habbits.

Deanski

belated update... Took the car to the dealer, ran tests for a couple of days, the long story short is they said they found nothing obviously wrong :unsure:

Pads/rotors checked out fine and caliper pressure tested OK too. My dealer definitely took the issue seriously so kudos to them. Going to keep an eye on it and see what happens.

One day, schedule a test drive between your car and one that is same model at dealer. This way you both can come to some agreement if there is a problem. Brakes should feel firm and go into ABS if really pushed hard. Maybe a slight leak in the brake booster area if the brakes do not respond in the same way.

You could also request that they flush the system fully as a precaution and to eliminate any bad fluid that may have become hydroscopic. I flush my system every two years to be safe. It's also an investment for my PCCB's and calipers to avoid any pitting in the piston/cylinder areas. That was a problem with Vette brakes in the past.

If you're not too happy with your dealer, there's always others to get a second opinion, or request that a PCNA regional rep test your car as well the next time it's at your dealership. That has to be coordinated between dealer and PCNA.

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Deanski

Do you know if the front lip spoiler is the same used by the GT3?

I have looked around and the original rubber/plastic ones are not so expensive.

I was thinking in always having a spare lip spoiler painted in black to replace it whenever the one in the car gets damaged, I know it would be only a matter of time before that happens, but the car looks spectacular with the aerokit front end.

That's what I did.... I use GT3 lips as they are flat black to begin with and are cheaper than the ones that have to be painted. Very easy to replace, one screw/keeper located in each wheel well, pull those out and you can remove the lip even though it has the one-way clips. New one goes on just as easy.

Yes, steep driveways, parking lots, gas stations etc all will scrape the lip. Speed bumps don't help. But I find by setting it to Sport to frim up the shock, there is less rebound.

Enjoy your Aerokit!

Deanski

What??? No pics or diagrams?? :o

I have to do the same thing soon. Loren? :renntech:

Regards,

Deanski

Here's where most get their gauge faces: Gauge Faces

Deanski

I too have P Zeros when I took delivery. Not the greatest tire, but good.

Deanski

I too have PCCB's on my C2S and really like these.

Only one problem that I'm trying to resolve with dealer and Porsche regional rep. There is a noise which at first sounds like a hung pad, but now I think it's a bearing seal not fully seated or a dry bearing. I get it when I turn or if I travel long distance I get it intermittently straight. It comes and gos at times.

Other than this issue, great brakes, but after washing, you have to dry them off more so than steel. In rain, no problems.

From what I hear, the PCCB's are just painted calipers, pads specific to the ceramic rotors and the ceramic rotors. You'll be better off spending the money on floating hat steel brakes/bigger rotors and paint you calipers speed yellow.

New, they were $8K when ordering the car.

Regards,

Deanski

Porsche leather has a very uniaue odor/smell to it. As much as I love Zaino Z-10, it's just too strong of a leather fragrance however, I understand Sal Zaino has a newer formula, slightly blue in color?

Anyway, what I found that really works well is the Sonus Leather Conditioner. It was developed by a fellow Porsche owner. He used brand new leather skins from the factory still in the bags to match the natural odor of Porsche leather.

What it does is after treatment, it renews the tanning oils used by the vendor Porsche uses, and in turn makes the leather smell the way it should, no leather frarance from the bottle, but from the leather itself.

It also makes the leather non slippery. Leather seats feel better, like you'll never slide in them, almost having a grip to it.

Sonus smells terrible from the bottle, but better than Lexol IMO, but after you treat the leather and close the doors, open the door after say an hour and be greeted by the original odor/smell once again.

I'll have to test the new Zaino Z-10 soon.

As for cleaning leather, nothing works better (and cheaper) than Woolite and water 6 to 1. 6 parts distilled water and 1 part Woolite. Use a spray bottle to apply and a soft brush to loosen the dirt. Wipe with white cotton towels to gauge how much dirt is left. After that, you could use a damp white cotton towel with the distilled water to remove/rinse the leather, but I see no need. Form there, wait for the leather to fully dry before treatment.

Most leather cleaners are nothing more than a Woolite mix, some coloring and frangrance.

For severe leather being dry, then I go with Leatherique. Hands down the best way to restore really bad leathers! It takes time, heat and a lot more work, but done correctly, it's outstanding for dry, cracked leather restoration. After application, I use plastic wrap around the leather, then let it sit in the sun to "bake" as all the dirt, impurities migrate out of the leather skin. Then, I use the Pristeen Clean to finish, followed by Zaino Z-10 on other leathers to get that leather smell back.

I find Z-10 is about dead-on for Lexus leather.

Regards,

Deanski

Anyone that has PCCB's (Myself included) is REQUIRED to use two "wheel hangers" whenever changing a wheel. I never checked my kit, but assume they are not in it so I'll get a pair soon.

Deanski

Did you get a copy of April issue of Excellence? They provided info on why the break-in period is so long for the USA. Remember, there is Mobil-1 in that engine, which is a very high grade lubricant.

What the Porsche rep from the factory says in Excellence (page 34 under Tech Notes) "break the car in like you were going to drive it". The golden rule is: the harder you push the motor after an easy 300-500 miles, the faster the break-in will be completed. Remember, you'll also have higher oil consumption during his time.

Always use the correct viscosity of Mobil-1. Since the motor as VarioCam, it needs the specific grade for it to work correctly.

Regards,

Deanski

I removed my lower "lip" when I trashed the original and it takes just 10 minutes to change from one to the other. Once you did the corner pop screw, just start from one corner and pull. You'll see that the lip starts to pull free. Once off, snap in the new one.

I'm using the matte black GT3 ones seeing these are going to get trashed often.

Regards,

Deanski

Quite a few people have lowered their cars with H&R springs. These seem to be the best quality for aftermart springs.

One issue you have to be aware of is that with aftermart springs, you run the risk of having a PASM shock fail since it reacts differently as opposed to stock levels. You'll know when, it fails in sport mode. The shocks get overworked due to the car lowered and the PASM software reacts to adjust the shock. Don't forget, there are MANY sensors on the PASM cars. All report back to the computer which then sends the valving to the shock.

I would look first at the RoW springs/euro setup that a dealer CAN modify the PASM. This way any issues can be covered under warranty.

One other way is to switch to the new Bilstein PSS9 coilover system for PASM cars. Very costly, but very big improvement in handling as well!

Another thing, some insurance companies will deny claims if they feel that less damage could have resulted by having the height stock. If they find the car was lowered, they can deny the claim.

Regards,

Deanski