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Posts posted by norton-sp

  1. The engine lid from a C4S (wide body) will not fit a C2 (narrow body) car. This has been covered here before - some folks suggested MaShaw for "llok alike" that fits.

    thanks loren...i couldnt find anything using the search before...but after searching for "mashaw" i found a wealth of information. i find it strange though, i thought that the wide body cars just had wider wings and that the basic body shell was exactly the same.



  2. hi

    i have exactly the same problems quoted below... the car also will not lock/unlock using the remote...do i really have to have the switch replaced? anybody know?



    "First noticed that key sliding into the lock felt 'funny'.

    Then key began turning back to the (1) position on its own after tuning the motor off (0).

    Had to 'hold' key in position (0) to remove.

    Key became difficult to put in."

  3. Anyone else hear a metallic rattle when driving their 996? This is my first Porsche (2001 C4) and it runs gr8, just has that metallic rattling from somewhere on the driver's side when accelerating. I removed the rear bumper and checked all of the heat shields and nothing appears to be loose. Any ideas party people??? Much appreciated! :lightbulb:

    sounds like the same noise that i have. comes from the passenger (right) side though!

  4. John,

    Have you gotten your car back? You must have the patients of a saint. Have you found out what “upgrades” have been done to the replacement engines as compared to the original M96? I get no response from PCNA and the local service tech seems to be in the dark. I guess Porsche wants it that way!


    Hi Lee,

    To quote the old Canned Heat song "Back on the Road Again" :drive: :jump: .

    Got the car back on Saturday but within 200 yards of leaving the specialist "CEL - Drive to Workshop" came on :cursing: . Went to my most local OPC today and they diagnosed a faulty Oxygen Sensor. So £233 more spent and everything now OK :clapping:

    I also rang Porsche GB today and was told that they have put a letter in the post. The guy I spoke to couldn't/wouldn't tell me what it says, just "read it and make your decisions based on what is says" :unsure: So watch this space and fingers crossed for when the post drops through the letterbox.

    Money spent: -

    Engine - £7,325.25

    Labor, new hoses, anti-freeze, rear gearbox mounting (old one had broken rubber shock absorber) etc - £3,119.02 (includes taking out old engine and re-building to return to Porsche GB)

    New radiators - £400.00

    Oxygen Sensor and diagnostics - £233.33

    RAC Report - £94.00

    Grand total - £11,171.60



    jesus!!! poor u, im flabergasted! (love that word) ... i paid just over 11,000 EUROS for my new engine, all inclusive...the only extra part i had to have installed was one new exhaust clamp for the end pipe, which they didnt charge me for because i moaned.

    i was real upset about that because of the prices i saw qouted here for an engine change in the US where about the same in euros as in USD...no-one could tell me why an engine is cheaper in the US even considering it has to get there!! (or do they build them in mexico? that would explain some things :unsure: ) you obviously had to pay for the dismanteling/rebuilding of your old engine which makes it more costly, but it still looks like porsche just charge the same price irrespective of the currency or exchange rate!! :rolleyes: my tip: get it done in poland next time :lightbulb:

  5. yes..very interesting links..the "break in secrets" reflect my experience. i remember a few times in the past, friends and other motorcycle riders wondering why my motorcycles seemed to perform better, run smoother and use no oil...especially my 6 cylinder honda which ran as smooth as an electric motor and performed/ran better than my friends bike which was the same model just much newer. (and run-in according to the manual)

    i must admit i was pretty facinated by those "run in secrets"...a great link.



  6. Nearly there!!!

    Went to see new engine today. Hoping to be back on the road end of this week/early part of next week. Getting clued up on running in disciplines.

    Porsche factory says no running in required. OPC says keep to 3,500-4,500 RPM tops for 1,000-2,000 miles. Oil change after 1,000 miles. I noticed a variance in the feedback from Lee's post re new engine. When you've paid for it out of your own pocket (so far), it gives you a different perpsective I guess.

    Just waiting for official RAC report and then will forward to Porsche GB.



    porsche and my dealer said no need for running in, nor was there a need for an oil change before 20000km. i wonder which is right. i personally dont see the need for running in...on the contrary. i have read evidence that carefull running in can actually do the engine harm and reduce the engines performance. high load and low revs should be avoided, which i try not to do anyway ...but this was the only extra precaution i took with my new engine for the first few hundred km.

    i have had many brand new very high performance motorcycles and a few cars. i have NEVER run them in. the only engine problem i ever had before the porsche was with my ducati, both were used when i bought them!..thats food for thought


  7. thanks izzy...sounds a bit complicated though. i thought i would just be able to "pry" them off!!

    if i do go ahead ill post some pics...i have done alot of the plastic parts in silver. not the porsche arctic silver but a high chrome silver which i think is just a little bit more more brilliant than the artic silver, rather complicated to apply though... i made the mistake of applying high gloss clear laquer, it looks real good but i dicovered if you leave the silver in its original "satin" look the parts look as if they are made of metal, but i had allready done so many parts that i didnt want to start again cos some were such a pain to remove... im going to be manufacturing some silver carbon interior parts soon...just to see how it looks.

  8. hi john

    yes, my new engine goes well...i sometimes think not as good as the old one but good enough. i give it lots of stick cos i have a porsche warranty on it so im daring it to fail. :angry: i dont really need my porsche but i tend to drive it most of the time cos i just love too...its hard, noisy and not very practical..but i just love driving it and thats what its all about isnt it?

    im really glad you have the grunt to talk to porsche about all this...and i support what has been said in another blown engine case in this forum that its about time that a few lawyers earned some money taking legal action against porsche. i would be very willing to take part in it too.

    yes we do have somthing in common apart from engine probs if you like fast italian bikes :-) i own a small sideline business constructing and re-selling exclusive parts for ducati´s and mv´s...its really just a hobby, but it enables me to pay for my cars and bikes...and if anyone is interested i also have a few porsche 996 carbon (cosmetic) parts on my website which i also manufacture... excuse the advertising :oops:

    best regards


  9. i want to remove the tiptronic switches from the steering wheel to paint them silver to match the rest of the plastic parts. before i start prying with a screwdriver anybody done this before and can tell me what to watch out for? i have just spent about an hour looking in "search" but cant find anything (lots of other interesting stuff though)...loren/ toolpants? (you guys have always been very helpfull. thanks :notworthy: )

    thanks in advance

  10. sorry to read about all your woes john..and i admire your strength and the lengths that you are going too. im just a working man and not a rich porsche owner, but last year forked out 11,200 euros for a new engine which blew after only 80k km. i wish i had had the strengh and will to take it as far as you are.

    i posted my woes back then....maybe you would like to read.


    wish you lots of luck.


  11. I have a v1 and it's saved my keister plenty of times. The dang thing falses ALOT though, Driving through town it's pretty much useless...but for the expressway its awesome!

    for anyone living in europe...the v1 with euro specs works really well...just the false alarms in towns/built up areas cuase me to turn the thing off or at least turn the volume down


  12. Your tire wear does not necessarily indicate your pressure is wrong at all. Sounds more like you are running a close to neutral camber in the rear. An allignment set within Porsche' specs would MANDATE that the tires wear more on the inside half when driven on the street or highway. Running excessively high tire pressure on this setup would still wear the inside of the tires first. When alignment is with specs, and you drive on the street and/or highway, you will NEVER, EVER wear the outside half of the rear tires before wearing down to the belts on the inside half of the tires.

    Running a neutral camber is not a good idea as it will greatly reduce the handling of the car. Your tires will last longer, but you will not be able to drive as aggressively as you could with a proper allignment. You may also expereince backend wobble in the rain. Many owners who only drive the car around town or long trips reduce the camber settings to save on tires. I would NOT recommend going to a camber of less than the minimum spec. I run at the low end of the spec and it still handles fine on the street and I get a little more mileage out of the rear tires.

    I suggest you take the car to an allignment shop of your choice and have them throw it on the machine. Have them print out the current settings so you can see what they are. Compare them to what is recommended and have them dial the rear camber down to the minumum.


    thanks for the info...i will do just that..it was always real bad in the wet...frightening sometimes..fun at others. :)

  13. my rear tyres (conti) have turned ito slicks in only 18k km. i must admit this has supprised me a bit. but ok. i now need some new ones..they are completly smooth in the middle, the outsides have about 1mm. this indicates a too high tyre pressure (3 bar)... the front are not looking so good either and i have a lot of noise which i suspect to be balancing problems which no-one seems to be able to solve. so ill change all 4.... would like to hear what suggestions some of you might have as to the best combination..i have the 18" turbo look wheels and a "sporty" driving style. ;)

    cheers and happy christmas


    ps. while im at it im going to change the brake discs (rotors) and pads awell...i hope that gets rid of the noise i have been experiencing.

    this is going to be expensive :(

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