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Karl Owen

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Posts posted by Karl Owen

  1. Thank you @JFP in PA I ordered the Porsche hose adapter from my dealer. When I lifted the car, however, noticed that the underbody panel had some fresh oil leak on it -- was not there a few weeks ago when I looked under the car.

    After removing the panel, it is from the front of the transmission, and it is not red like the Tiptronic fluid. Could it be the all-wheel driving mechanism?


    PS. Just to clarify, although one pic shows a jack, the car is supported by four jackstands in the factory-recommended positions, plus a fifth stand under the rear suspension on one side. Thought I'd mention that.




  2. I got the supplies from my dealer, and would like to get the screw connection hose No. 9507/1 A (or equivalent) to be be able to connect to the  charging valve. Any ideas where i should look?


    I am considering the MityVac adaptor for Benz 722.9 Auto Transmission that has a 12mm thread. Wold rather not buy the whole set with multiple adaptors for various brands, if I can get the right one upfront.  Can anyone ( @JFP in PA @Loren) tell me  what thread does the filler valve need? I would gladly buy the Porsche tool but if not available, any replacement would do. 

  3. Hello, I am very interested in draining the fluid in the Tiptronic S.  My Arizona daily driver 2007 997.1 C4S has 80000 miles and I would like to know exactly what type of fluid to get and how many liters. Will also get the filter and gasket.


    I understand the capacity is about 9 liters and about half of that can be drained, and was thinking that after the initial service (filter, half the fluid) I will drive it for a few weeks so that it mixes,  then drain it again (this time without removing the pan and without replacing the filter) and thus will have replaced 75% of the fluid. Is that reasonable or is it crazy?


    Also does the front differential fluid need to be replaced? If yes, what type and how many liters? Is there a rear differential?

    Thank you all.

  4. I got a replacement fan from my dealer, and went ahead and replaced it. Problem solved, I can activate both fans in Durametric.


    Tips for other beginners like me who want to do this swap.

    1. I removed the bumper  and it is easier to access the setup. You must remove the front wheel well liner and the thin tubular cross brace.

    2. It is easiest to remove the bracket supporting the radiator from below. The electric connection box on the inside/top of the bracket and the large radiator hoses connect with torx screws, while the others are hex (10 and 13mm).  So you need torx sockets.

    3. You don't need to disconnect the radiator vent hose.

    4. You don't need to separate the AC condenser from the radiator, but it is easy to do, and allows some wiggle room to clean the debris out. I blew compressed air from the back and vacuumed from the front. Quite a bit of mess came out and the rads still don't look clean. Oh well.

    5. The electric connector on  the top of the fan assembly (air duct) is tricky. Seems like it should come apart by pulling outward (laterally), but in fact you should grab the inner half and pull it inward. The outer half is attached to the body of the air duct. Luckily I realized this before I broke something.


    Thanks for the hint that the fan might be a problem. That's why this forum is so great!




    On 6/11/2019 at 12:16 PM, Loren said:

    Yes, replacing a fan does not require draining coolant.


    I doubt both fans would die at once - plus you say you can run them through Durametric.

    If you clear the codes and run the car (with AC on) which is the first fault code?





    • Upvote 1
  5. 21 hours ago, Loren said:

    Yes, replacing a fan does not require draining coolant.


    I doubt both fans would die at once - plus you say you can run them through Durametric.

    If you clear the codes and run the car (with AC on) which is the first fault code?


    So I removed the bumper to clean out the radiators and checked the fans. The one on the driver side was initially frozen, but can be actuated with the Durametric (and turning engine on w/ AC blasting) while the passenger side fan spins freely, but can NOT be turned on.


    Could this still be a fuse or relay problem or is it now certainly the fan?


    I had trouble finding the fuse box. Is it this box in the frunk? Or is it in the wheel well?



  6. OK so I tested with Durametric, and got this:


    Front Body Module

    Current Fault Codes

    8016: Left radiator fan motor

    8017: Right radiator fan motor

    8031: Outside-temperature sensor

    C190: Fault instrument cluster (comfort)


    In the Durametric "Activation" menu I was UNable to turn either fan on. So unless it's a relay issue, seems like fans are gone. Is it possible to replace the fans without draining the coolant (997.1 C4S)? The fans are going be about $900 from Pelican. Ouch.


    Anyone know what are the other two errors (8031: Outside-temperature sensor and C190: Fault instrument cluster (comfort)) ?


  7. I was wondering what tools do you carry in the car. I realize a cell phone is the best tool, and the frunk cellar (or whatever you wanna call it) has some basics, including the lugnut safety socket. But I take my car on long rides and wonder if I break down in a small town, the local mechanic is not going to have a serpentine belt etc. 

    So I put together a basic toolset, but want to ask for suggestions.  Thus far I have 

    • spare serpentine belt and the 24mm wrench needed to put it on.
    • 19 mm 3/8" socket with extender and ratchet wrench
    • large adjustable wrench with smooth-surface jaws (Might replace the 24mm as it opens that wide IIRC)
    • medium Knipex Cobra
    • diagonal cutter
    • hammer
    • ratcheting screwdriver with torx and philips bits
    • metric ballhead Allen wrenches
    • boxcutter, mirror, picker, light, gloves, microfiber towels





  8. With temp set to 72 (outside in the 90s) , the blower spins at full blast, but the air temperature sometimes is hot (ambient).

    When the car idles, or is revved up but in park, the air is hot. When I drive slowly (low RPM) it's hot. When I drive with RPMs above 2,000 the air is cold. So it seems it's connected to the engine (and AC compressor) RPMs but also with movement. I checked the refrigerant level and is adequate to high. Also noticed oil temp went to above 225 -- highest I have ever seen it. Water temo usually is 175, this time was a little bit higher.


    What could be the issue?


    Of note the outside temp of high 90s is mild by AZ standards, and the car (2007 C4S w 80K miles) did not have this problem previous years.

  9. Funny you should mention that. I have just replaced the engine mounts last night.  I am not even that skilled, yet it was very easy. The new one is in the middle with normal stick-out. The old ones are clearly shot. The exhaust tips were 27-29 mm under the bumper, but once I torqued the nuts to spec, they are seated 14mm below with the new mounts. Highly recommended maintenance.


  10. I like PASM, and don't want the baseline feel of the shocks to be any stiffer than stock, yet it's nice to tighten the feel at the press of a button. Also I keep my car as stock as possible, the only main change has been the BT system,  installed behind the factory stereo, and looped in to replace the disc changer.


    Are the Ohlins compatible with PASM, ie do they have the electric wire?


  11. On 4/25/2019 at 12:45 PM, Krombacher said:

    For use on the track,

    fix the oil pressure problem these cars have. A 2qt deep sump isn’t enough though. Check your oil pressure on a 270 degree highway on ramp with rpms at or above 3400 rpm and 15 min of highway driving speeds immediately beforehand. You will see what I mean.


    What solution do you recommend? I am very interested in this too.

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