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Coloradocurt

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Everything posted by Coloradocurt

  1. I recently acquired a '73 911T and among the receipts is a handful from "Performance Products" of Van Nuys, Calif. I've been out of the Porsche loop for too many years, but recall them back in the '80's and '90's (along wth Automotion in Silicon Valley) as being major sources of aftermarket Porsche parts. I've come to learn that I believe Automotion was acquired by Ecklers (which has more recently been acquired by Rose Passion), but I'm curious about whatever happened to Performance Products.
  2. I don't smell gas and stepping about halfway on the gas pedal helps it start . Yesterday after starting for the first minute or so it's rough and doesn't want to idle nicely, that started just yesterday. After couple of minutes it's perfect again .
  3. Runs perfect , drive in hot day 85+ degrees, stop for 30 min or longer and does not want to easily start (takes 10+ seconds of cranking - seems to starving for fuel) Replaced fuel pump, check valve and fuel accumulator. Didn’t cure the problem. Any expert suggestions?? Thanks.
  4. Simply put: How do I go about purging/erasing the rogue seat position out so when I use the key-fob to lock/unlock the door it's not screwing my intentions??? Other than that one issue, everything else in this system is working as it should.
  5. I've followed all of the procedures spelled out in the Owner's Manual but to no avail. The problem is that when I use the remote to lock and unlock the car, the driver's seat will return to some other position which it must have been taught/learned with a previous owner (someone who must have been considerably shorter than I am). Following the manual, with the ignition on and having chosen my preferred seating position, I used the M, key, 1 and 2 buttons on the memory console (on the door sill) to set all 3 (key, 1 and 2) for that position (I am the only driver and use but one remote ignition key). Yet when I use the key remote to lock and then unlock the car, the seat finds that long-ago previous setting. Any of those 3 buttons will bring the seat to my favored position, but I cannot get the system to "forget" that old setting. I've even followed the manual's steps for clearing the stored seat positions from memory (key button and #2 button pressed simultaneously and held for 5 seconds); then went and reset all 3 buttons (as per the above paragraph), but still the problem remains as described above. Just a bit of a PITA every time I park and lock the car to have to use one of the buttons to put the seat back in my favored position. Anyone know of a work-around to get this resolved (short of visiting the stealership)?
  6. Problem solved. The instructions in that Rennlist thread are indeed correct. I misinterpreted them, and after re-wiring correctly, the side markers will now flash with the turn signals when the headlights are on.
  7. Last evening was the first time I’ve driven my newly-acquired 2003 996 C4S at night, and I have a strange problem with the turn signals. When the headlights are turned on (or the parking lights for that matter), all 4 turn indicators (front/rear and right/left) illuminate steadily (not flashing) as well as the right and left turn indicators on the tach. While driving that way, when I try the turn signal stalk (on the steering column), the turn signals don’t flash. With the headlights turned on the emergency flashers won’t operate, but they do if the headlights are off. With headlights off, everything functions as it should. The only thing I’ve done which might be a contributing factor is to wire the side markers into parallel with the turn signal circuits to flash with the turn signals [http://gallery.rennlist.com/gallery/album103]. Has anyone else had this problem? And if so, what was the cause and the solution/fix. Thanks.
  8. Addressing a question that's been posed to me- "Is this tool and the seal it helps to install applicable to all 996 911's (except possibly the 996TT??) and 986 Boxster models/years?" I am under the "impression" that all of these use the basic M96 engine and the answer would be yes, but I can't say so authoritatively.
  9. That small batch run has been completed, and these are posted for sale in the RennTech Classifieds. The cost worked out to be $50 including USPS Priority Mail shipping to the domestic U.S. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/46926-fs-996-rear-main-seal-installation-tool/
  10. Looking good, and a small batch run being done with details to be posted shortly.
  11. I'm reading into your comments that the tight fit you mention was between the crankshaft's diameter and the tool, and not necessarily between the tool and the crankcase (although I haven't yet measured the crankcase). Working on my back under the car and using my calipers, I measured the diameter of the crankshaft to be 3.340", leaving only about a 0.014" clearance to your 85.2mm dimension. Might be a bit too tight for easy (yet still error-free) use. 0.01433" or 0.364mm clearance is tight but that is what my caliper says to me. In any case please use your own judgement here, measuring with a caliper is somewhat error prone. I does not hurt to use a bit more clearance. Also, you can always bring the first version back to the shop and ask them to take another 0.1 - 0.2mm off, but that of course takes more time.. There is also the matter of thermal expansion to think of (metal vs nylon). Prototype has been completed, but with one more revision necessary. That 43.1mm dimension was what I'd best describe as an interference fit, making it impossible for the tool to bottom-out against the crankshaft flange.
  12. Just a success note: The car is a 2003 996 C4S with 77K miles which I bought back in December with very little maintenance history (CarFax said the RMS was done in 2004), and a long list of issues topped by a clutch past borrowed time. With a number of things keeping me from tackling the issues head-on with more time, today I finally got the old IMS bearing out with no issues - and it's pristine with both seals intact. However, lying on my back under the car while doing this, as the IMS relieved itself from the crankcase - about a cup of oil glopped onto my chest. Scratch one tee-shirt. The 2-Do list: install the upgraded IMS hardware, replace the rear main seal, install the new lightweight flywheel and clutch package, reinstall the rear axles, marry the tranny to the engine, fill tranny fluid, install all of the FWD hardware, install new engine mounts, new water pump and thermostat, and the list goes on and on. Thanks to all you guys for the threads, posts, How-to's and DIY instructions. I take a stand at what dealers charge for shop rates these days, and at a $15/hr minimum wage rate, no more fast food either!
  13. Expanding that question- Does anyone actually own one of these tools made/sold by Cheetahonline.com? If only for reference, it might be interesting to get those dimensions.
  14. Just out of curiosity, can anyone else get onto the www.Cheetahonline.com web site and actually complete an order for one of these installation tools? I was willing to shell out the $60 price, but the web site is FUBAR and never steps on into the checkout process.
  15. I'm reading into your comments that the tight fit you mention was between the crankshaft's diameter and the tool, and not necessarily between the tool and the crankcase (although I haven't yet measured the crankcase). Working on my back under the car and using my calipers, I measured the diameter of the crankshaft to be 3.340", leaving only about a 0.014" clearance to your 85.2mm dimension. Might be a bit too tight for easy (yet still error-free) use. 0.01433" or 0.364mm clearance is tight but that is what my caliper says to me. In any case please use your own judgement here, measuring with a caliper is somewhat error prone. I does not hurt to use a bit more clearance. Also, you can always bring the first version back to the shop and ask them to take another 0.1 - 0.2mm off, but that of course takes more time.. There is also the matter of thermal expansion to think of (metal vs nylon). I just checked the ID on the case, and I get 104.7mm (again, lying on my back under the car using calipers). Relative to the 104.8mm OD dimension you gave for the tool, that's an even tighter fit than to the crankshaft. Given that the plastic pipe coupler suggested earlier has those two dimensions nowhere that could even be considered 'tight,' I see the challenge for this job one of getting the seal installed to that 13mm depth accurately around the full circumference - which your 'nylon' installation should succeed at very nicely. With a bit a care during the installation process by gently tapping the tool on the end in a curcular pattern - going round and round so as to keep the new seal relatively perpendicular to the crankshaft centerline until the tool bottoms out against the end of the crankshaft - that ought to be relatively easy to accomplish. I plan to relax your two dimensions (the 104.8mm and the 85.2mm) to provide about 4-5mm of clearance.
  16. I'm reading into your comments that the tight fit you mention was between the crankshaft's diameter and the tool, and not necessarily between the tool and the crankcase (although I haven't yet measured the crankcase). Working on my back under the car and using my calipers, I measured the diameter of the crankshaft to be 3.340", leaving only about a 0.014" clearance to your 85.2mm dimension. Might be a bit too tight for easy (yet still error-free) use.
  17. The one pictured by Domiac (see post numbers 7, 12 and 13) looks to be about as simple, inexpensive and foolpoof as you could ever want. Just gentle tapping in a circular fashion around the perimeter until it bottoms out against the crankshaft's flywheel mounting surface, and the new RMS should be evenly and at exactly the 13mm depth. I'm looking into having some made by a good friend.
  18. Thanks, guys. My friend in Toledo has a very hi-tech, state-of-the-art machine shop, and I'm curious - especially from John - as to what sort of demand you feel is out there - from both DIY'ers as well as Porsche shops - at different price points.
  19. I've tried purchasing that tool from Cheetah (Cheetahonline.com) but the web site is a disaster in terms of the checkout process actually working (plus it offers no way to contact them via email or phone message). I'm checking into alternative fabrication options, and just curious if anyone else would be interested in buying one if they're available.
  20. Good thread. I've gotten the impression that at some point in the history of the 996 RMS issue that Porsche 'modified' the recommended installation to incorporate recessing the RMS to that 13mm depth, and possibly at that time also changed to an updated seal design. My question is if anyone knows (about) when that (I presume) TSB was issued? My 2003 C4S had the RMS seal replaced in 8/04, and inasmuch as I'm in there anyhow for a clutch and to do the IMS retrofit and the RMS is at the correct depth and appears not to be leaking, I'm thinking "if it ain't broke,.............."
  21. I’m frustrated in my efforts to source easily discernable torque specs for my 996 C4S. I’ve found them in a table format (i.e., without an accompanying illustration) in my CD of the Factory Shop Manual, but the difficulty is in translating the written description of the part that the bolt attaches to an illustration that employs the same wording. A typical listing reads: “Control arm on side member M12 x 1.5 120 (89)” But forming a mental picture of exactly what that “Control arm on side member” looks like as I’m under the car is challenging. I’ve attached a page from a Toyota shop manual which illustrates the assembly, and has the tightening specs of each threaded fastener shown alongside it. Is there any document (possibly the Bentley Manual) that provides the 996 torque specs in a similar fashion? Thanks.
  22. I just changed out my sending unit - took less than an hour. For GromitlnWA, you might thy this first and see if it solves your problem before you shell out $1350 to replace the pressure line.
  23. I'm a big fan of (when appropriate) buying used Porsche parts from reputable Porsche dismantlers. I believe a sending unit is such a case and I'm going to proceed to swap in the replacement. I don't know that any testing of my current setup would prove anything that doing the swap wouldn't, and I'm not too excited about the risk of a fire with live 12 volts and exposed fuel in close proximity. While your C2 tank is going to be somewhat different than my C4 tank, changing that fuel line with the tank in place would be a serious challenge. If I have to resort to that and try to do it without dropping the tank, my thinking after having inspected from the underside would be (after having disconnected at the tank) to first disconnect that line from any connections/brackets working from back to front, starting at the engine. Then with the entire line free of any connection to the chassis, to use a primary person working from underneath and a helper up top trying to gently facilitate getting the connection end of the line past the initial obstacles around the top of the tank. While you could easily just cut the line and pull it out, doing what I'm suggesting ought to confirm (if you're able to get it out) whether you ought to be able to reverse the process installing a replacement line.
  24. Well, I just crawled under mine and it sure looks like trying to change that pressure fuel line with the fuel tank in place is questionable. While my car is a C4 and I believe that those fuel tanks are shaped differently that the C2's, and those two lines are somewhat/slightly flexible, it would be a challenge. But what appears as a sign of good news on mine is that I've spotted what appears for all the world to be a very small crack in the top of the sending unit housing right at the base of the "pipe" which the fuel lone attaches to. For PTEC: Does this look familiar to what you've found of Cayennes?
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