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Stephtell

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Everything posted by Stephtell

  1. That's the thing....it's completely stock! There's nothing but the standard things in the car... There are no chargers plugged in, there have not been any alterations to the musicinstallation...I can't for the life in me think of anything untoward...
  2. Thanks for all your help! I've just finished investigations... A couple of fuses were inserted even though those systems are not on the car (anymore)...for example the tyre pressure monitoring system. After removing those the drain dropped from roughly 300 mA to 150 mA... After locking the car and letting it 'go to sleep' the drain is a steady 150 mA and that doesn't change regardless of whatever fuse I remove...I've removed the two underneath the seat, all of those in the LHD and RHD-side and the ones in the engine bay. So I'm guessing 150 mA is too much but removing fuses do
  3. Sorry to be a dunce but: the red lead of the multimeter between the positive battery terminal and the cable, the black on on the negative terminal of the battery or...?
  4. Thanks, I will do that! Are there common items that cause a drain like mine? It's a huge battery in perfect condition so for that to go empty in a matter of day's something must be draining A LOT of power?
  5. Hi all, About a month ago the car starter to sound 'weaker' whilst starting and after a week or so of not using it, the battery went dead. So I went out a got a new battery, a Bosch silverline, hooked it up to a C-tek tricklecharger and when it was completely full I installed it and all seemed well. Lately it's the same old story: car runs fine but if I leave it for a couple of days the battery goes dead and I have to charge it again. When I measure the voltage across the terminals in the enginebay I get roughly 14 volts with a running engine but it doesn't seem to make a diffe
  6. Sorry to be thick but: there's a bumpstop on the way DOWN you say...but my problem occurs when I wind the window UP...it looks as if the glass sits ever so slightly slanted sideways so it doesn't close properly on the RH-side of the door (when stood outside)... And now-one as to why it keeps breaking regulators?
  7. Can you please elaborate on that? Bumpstop on the regulator or...? What does it look like? Thanks!
  8. Right then, the windowregulator of my 2004 CTT failed some time ago so I've ordered a new one on Ebay and replaced it. When I did I made a smaal mistake whilst fitting and damaged the cable so it was a matter of time before it failed again...and recently it did. So I ordered a new one and fitted it correctly this time. All went well and it worked fine, however the window never really fully 'seated' at the top...there was always a very, very slight gap between the glass and the top of the frame...was there as well when it failed the first time. Anyway, the regulator failed AGAIN... So I'm
  9. Well the real problem isn't the aircon....the real problem is that it only delivers HEATED air....so I can't even use the car because of the heat inside....feels like the temperature swetting is on high :-( If I could just switch to 'normal' cool air I'd be happy, let alone proper cooled air...
  10. Oh dear....haven't used the car for a bit and now the weather's good and sunny decided to use it for a bit. The car blows HOT air in the cabin, regardless of the temperature settings, manual or auto. Airconpump doesn't seem to kick in either. It's a 4-zone car and the rear doesn't blow hot air but on the lowest temperature setting it doesn't blow cold air either?? It seems as if either a temperature sensor packed up or the heater is stuck open or something? Can someone please tell me where and how to start looking for the problem? I have a good OBD-scanner if that's of any use... Thanks
  11. SORTED!!! Swapped all four wheels for my winterset and the problem is GONE!!! Checked the summerwheels and found one dodgy tyre: Offside rear seems to be concave over the width of the tyre, especially in one specific place...? Never seen something like it, what can cause this? Tyre coming apart or collapsing on the inside? Glad it's sorted now! Cheers for thinking this one through with me!
  12. Hold on though: there's no vibration in the car and no noise whatsoever.....and it feels like a huge wobble as if the wheel isn't round anymore but squared off....!!! Does this sound like a lower control arm problem? The wobble starts as soon as you set off, speed doesn't make a difference!
  13. So you mean a bush could have collapsed or something of the sort? Sounds like relatively easy and cheap fix?
  14. All of the sudden I feel the car juddering when driving over all surfaces. It's noticable from the driversseat but twice as bad in the passengerseat where you're physically rocked around?! It feels as if one tyre is completely flat or one of the wheels is buckled. - All 4 wheels are tightened properly - Original Porsche 20" wheels - wheel nuts/studs not broken - wheels not damaged - all 4 tyres at the correct pressures - not visible damage to the tyres - no side to side play in the wheels - no knocking and/or scraping noises - no juddering in the brakepedal - no errorcodes - airsu
  15. Battery could be wonky even if it does show 12.4 volts....check the date if you can? Might be on it's way out. As for the lock, not too hard to take apart to have a look as I've found out the hard way...
  16. Well I never let the car idle before I get in, they've invented heated steering wheels and heated seats to combat the cold...
  17. Mine's thirstier than a camel in the dessert.... I can imagine it get's worse in the cold as cold air is denser, contains more oxygen so it could inject more fuell? You should notice extra urgency as well since the intercoolers work more efficiently in cold weather.
  18. Exactly my thought: either one or more electrical connections that aren't made properly or even a wire that's gone brittle and cracked during removal/installation? I had an annoying misfire on my S6 after fitting new spark plugs and coils: turned out to be a spot of grease on the coiltube, cleaned it and no more misfire!
  19. SOLVED!!! And, as it turns out, it was a small oversight when re-assembling the door... You need to secure a small spring to the actuator before assembling. If you don't, it'll will all work fine...untill you use the central locking, after which you will not be able to open the door anymore... Thank you all for helping out, I can remove and refit Cayenne doors and doorcards in a matter of minutes now so I guess atleast my skilllevel has improved!
  20. Thanks a lot mate! Exactly what I needed but I'm unsure about the 'locking the receiver in place warning' ...not sure if I did this right or not...the weird thing is that everything seems to be exactly right so why oh why won't it play nice....
  21. **** the bed.... Guess what? Tried to open the door this morning but no joy... So out with the reardoor again, openend the frontdoor, removed the complete inner doorpanel, checked everything, reassembled, tested and worked fine. Closed door, re-opened and all was well. Locked door, unlocked and.....no joy. Only when I pull the cable by hand does it open after it has been locked/unlocked and NOT with the handle. Loosening the cable doesn't make sense but I tried it anyway and no joy. Tightened it up and the handle functions UNTILL the car has been locked/unlocked...after that the cable on
  22. That's the thing...after the barrel was removed I could open the door without further work...I've refitted the barrel again and now it worksas it should...?
  23. HA! Pulled the reardoor off, three screws and max. 5 minutes work, removed the two small bolt that hold the lockbarrel in place, pulled the barrel out and....hey presto! Both inside and outside openers are fully functional again! So, all is well now but for one thing: There are two small bolts that hold the barrel in right? The tiny on on top and the larger one beneath that. Somehow there seems to be a tiny metal 'strip' partly in the way of the lower bolt...if you just screw it in regardless it pushes said strip out of the way and you can seat the bolt but for some reason I don't the st
  24. Thanks for that, will go at it again today. I'm hoping that I can open the door by pulling the little cable that attaches to the doorhandle, if not I'll get the grinder out... This car is doing my head in...hardly got to drive it before someone parked it into a concrete post, then the window failed and now the lock...pfffffff......
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