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Posts posted by Stephtell

  1. Thanks for all your help!


    I've just finished investigations...


    A couple of fuses were inserted even though those systems are not on the car (anymore)...for example the tyre pressure monitoring system.

    After removing those the drain dropped from roughly 300 mA to 150 mA...


    After locking the car and letting it 'go to sleep' the drain is a steady 150 mA and that doesn't change regardless of whatever fuse I remove...I've removed the two underneath the seat, all of those in the LHD and RHD-side and the ones in the engine bay.


    So I'm guessing 150 mA is too much but removing fuses don't seem to affect it??


    Also: the keyless entry and drive packed up around the same time. I noticed that when I touch the door handle the amps go up so the antennas do work!

  2. Hi all,


    About a month ago the car starter to sound 'weaker' whilst starting and after a week or so of not using it, the battery went dead.


    So I went out a got a new battery, a Bosch silverline, hooked it up to a C-tek tricklecharger and when it was completely full I installed it and all seemed well.


    Lately it's the same old story: car runs fine but if I leave it for a couple of days the battery goes dead and I have to charge it again.


    When I measure the voltage across the terminals in the enginebay I get roughly 14 volts with a running engine but it doesn't seem to make a difference if i let the car idle or rev it to 3000 rpm.


    So it does seem to be charging.


    There's no light left on anywhere, I took out the light underneath the bonnet just to be sure as well.


    My turbo is fitted with just the one battery by the way, it doesn't have the auxillary one in the boot.


    One thing left to add: around the same time my keyless entry and go packed up...??


    So it seems something is draining the battery but I've no idea what or how to measure it...please help!!


    Thanks in advance, any help GREATLY appreciated!

  3. Right then, the windowregulator of my 2004 CTT failed some time ago so I've ordered a new one on Ebay and replaced it.

    When I did I made a smaal mistake whilst fitting and damaged the cable so it was a matter of time before it failed again...and recently it did.

    So I ordered a new one and fitted it correctly this time.

    All went well and it worked fine, however the window never really fully 'seated' at the top...there was always a very, very slight gap between the glass and the top of the frame...was there as well when it failed the first time.

    Anyway, the regulator failed AGAIN...

    So I'm wondering what could go wrong so quickly?? And doI align the glass properly as I can'tseem to get rid of the gap I've mentioned...

    Any help greatly appreciated, this will be the third time I have to take the lot apart...getting rather annoyed with it....


  4. Oh dear....haven't used the car for a bit and now the weather's good and sunny decided to use it for a bit.

    The car blows HOT air in the cabin, regardless of the temperature settings, manual or auto.

    Airconpump doesn't seem to kick in either.

    It's a 4-zone car and the rear doesn't blow hot air but on the lowest temperature setting it doesn't blow cold air either??

    It seems as if either a temperature sensor packed up or the heater is stuck open or something?

    Can someone please tell me where and how to start looking for the problem?

    I have a good OBD-scanner if that's of any use...


  5. SORTED!!!

    Swapped all four wheels for my winterset and the problem is GONE!!!

    Checked the summerwheels and found one dodgy tyre: Offside rear seems to be concave over the width of the tyre, especially in one specific place...?

    Never seen something like it, what can cause this?
    Tyre coming apart or collapsing on the inside?

    Glad it's sorted now! Cheers for thinking this one through with me!

  6. All of the sudden I feel the car juddering when driving over all surfaces.

    It's noticable from the driversseat but twice as bad in the passengerseat where you're physically rocked around?!

    It feels as if one tyre is completely flat or one of the wheels is buckled.

    - All 4 wheels are tightened properly

    - Original Porsche 20" wheels

    - wheel nuts/studs not broken

    - wheels not damaged

    - all 4 tyres at the correct pressures

    - not visible damage to the tyres

    - no side to side play in the wheels

    - no knocking and/or scraping noises

    - no juddering in the brakepedal

    - no errorcodes

    - airsuspension works on all settings, no errorcodes

    - adjusting rideheight or suspensionmode has no effect

    It seems like it's coming from the passengerside of the car and when I reverse is seems the front wheel is moving up and down??

    Any ideas what this can be??

  7. SOLVED!!!

    And, as it turns out, it was a small oversight when re-assembling the door...

    You need to secure a small spring to the actuator before assembling.

    If you don't, it'll will all work fine...untill you use the central locking, after which you will not be able to open the door anymore...

    Thank you all for helping out, I can remove and refit Cayenne doors and doorcards in a matter of minutes now so I guess atleast my skilllevel has improved!

  8. **** the bed....

    Guess what? Tried to open the door this morning but no joy...

    So out with the reardoor again, openend the frontdoor, removed the complete inner doorpanel, checked everything, reassembled, tested and worked fine.

    Closed door, re-opened and all was well.

    Locked door, unlocked and.....no joy.

    Only when I pull the cable by hand does it open after it has been locked/unlocked and NOT with the handle.

    Loosening the cable doesn't make sense but I tried it anyway and no joy. Tightened it up and the handle functions UNTILL the car has been locked/unlocked...after that the cable only work by hand...


    The only thing that comes to mind is that the cable has too much free play somehow so you need to pull it out further by hand or else it won't activate the actuator.

    How to solve that though, I've no idea...

    Also doesn't makes sense that it only starts to act up after locking/unlocking and yes, the lock does disengage so it isn't still locked...

    Please...for the love of God....

    HELPPPPP!!!!!! :-)

  9. HA!

    Pulled the reardoor off, three screws and max. 5 minutes work, removed the two small bolt that hold the lockbarrel in place, pulled the barrel out and....hey presto!

    Both inside and outside openers are fully functional again!

    So, all is well now but for one thing:

    There are two small bolts that hold the barrel in right? The tiny on on top and the larger one beneath that.

    Somehow there seems to be a tiny metal 'strip' partly in the way of the lower bolt...if you just screw it in regardless it pushes said strip out of the way and you can seat the bolt but for some reason I don't the strip (for lack of a better word) was there upon first removal....or is this normal??

    CHRIS: don't drill out the rivets! This is what I did the first time round but there's no need!

    If you look for a post by about removing the inner doorpanel you'll find a manual describing how to do it the proper way!

    Seems a lot of work but after doing it a few times now I can removethe complete doorassembly in ten minutes, once you have the doorframe out of the car all the parts such as lock, windowregulator etc. Are easily accesible!

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