Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Stephtell

Members
  • Content Count

    52
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Stephtell

  1. Thing is, I can't remove the doorpanel because that's a no-go...

    There is power to the door, I can lock and unlock it but I can't open it....

    I think it must be due to the cable getting undone but how to get to it...

    How does my idea sound to remove the rear door so I can acces the bolts that hold the lockbarrel in place, pull the lockbarrel and fish for the cable?

    What's the best way to remove the reardoor? Just unbolt it from the hinges? That's only three bolts and won't change the alignement I guess.....

    Thanks for commenting, atleast I'm not alone in my crusade....

  2. Jesus wept....

    Fitted a new windowregulator in the front driver's door today.

    All went well, put door back together and tested window, doorhandel and lock and all was well.

    Shut the door, reopened and again: all was well.

    Shut the door again, this time it won't open and it feels like the doorhandel isn't attached to the mechanism anymore (no springaction) BUT the dooropener inside does spring back but doesn't open the door!!??

    The only thing I can think of now is to remove the reardoor to gain acces to the two bolts that hold the lockbarrel in place so I can remove that and hopefully manage to open the door somehow...

    Any advice on removing the reardoor and/or how to open the front door without breaking everything??

    Any help much appreciated!

  3. Another one:

    I noticed the rubber seal that seals of the enginebay when the bonnet is closed doesn't seem to sit well...

    It seems too short so if you tighten the fit at one end, the other end pulls out again and on top nearest the window I'm not sure if it should fit to the metal ledge or the metal ledge combined with the plastic cover adjacent to that...

    I'm not quite sure how to explain, does anyone know what I mean?

  4. Well I took off the outer doorpanel (easy enough) and I drilled out the rivets of the innerpanel and undid the bolts holding it in place.

    Thing is though, I can't remove it altogether because it seems something is rivetted to it from the inside...so I can drill it out....?

    Can anoby give me some pointers om how to remove the INNER doorpanel to repair my broken windowregulator?

    Thanks!

  5. Another one for those in the know:

    2004 CTT: fitted with 4-zone aircon wich seems to work fine.

    I've replaced the cabinfilter the other day (FILTHY) and it was fitted with the airflow arrows pointing towards the condenser i.e. the front of the car.

    According to the leaflet wich came with the new filter however, it has to be fitted with the airflow arrow pointing towards the rear of the car...seemed to make sense so fitted it this way.

    Now it seems like aircon makes a sound I don't think it made before: when the aircon is set to 'auto' you can hear a high pitched 'sizzle' exactly like that of a fridge when it's active...?

    When I set it to 'econ' (thereby switching of the airconpump) the sound stops...

    So has anybody else noticed this sound and is it normal or is it because the filter in fitted the wrong way round?

    Also, is this the only filter connected to the airconsystem or is there a secondary one due to the fact it's a 4-zone system?

    Questions questions.... :-)

  6. Right then, 2004 CTT:

    The car runs fine and up- and downshifts in manual mode are fine.

    Up- and downshifts in auto mode are fine as well, extremely smooth, but under heavy acceleration upshifts are HARD...

    You can feel a hard 'jerk' as it bangs another one in...

    No errormessages, no strange behaviour, car still runs fine but holy hell...

    Is this normal? I would assume not but then again, no errors, running fine so...not a problem?

    Any and all advice much appreciated!

  7. Goodevening all!

    Sometime ago I joined this site after the girlfriend bought a 4.5 S with some little issues...

    I fixed the front interiorlight AND found a shortcut to the switch and have now tackled the noisy climate control issue...by swapping it for a turbo!

    Sod's law: the front interiorlight doesn't work either and after 5 minutes the driver's side window stopped working...motor runs but I think cable slipped off or snapped...

    Other than that all seems well for now although the tyrepressure sensors are AWOL...

    Goes like stink by the way! Love it!

  8. Sorry if I'm wrong on this one but I *think* there's an easier way...

    I read somewhere that you'd have to remove the entire unit/console from the roofliner and remove the circuitboard....

    HOWEVER: if you pry of the lightcover itself you can then pry of the entire button-bezel with the centre button still attached.

    This is held in with plastic tabs and comes out very easily and repeatedly without breaking the tabs....

    So no tools needed at all, simply take off both the lightcover (optional really but gives you a little easier acces) and the bezel and you can fix the light!

    Hope this helps!

  9. I've no subwoofer installed and there's certainly no battery in the boot of the car...

    I have disassembled a Jeep Dash before to install a new aircon unit and I have also replaced a servo on a Jeep once with the unit and dash in place and I found that if you exercise enough patience it's not too hard IF you know wich one is running amok...

    Is there a way to test control unit or is it usefull to remove it and refit it in order for it to reset magically or should I just try to get hold of another one secondhand?

    Thanks a lot for your answers!

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.