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PostBox

Contributing Members
  • Content Count

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PostBox last won the day on July 17 2018

PostBox had the most liked content!

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About PostBox

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    UK
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    Boxster S

Recent Profile Visitors

644 profile views
  1. Cheap fix for annoying exhaust rattle This is most probably caused by your heat shields over the catalytic converters. They get rusty and the fixings cannot work properly. I was surprised how much the heat shields (£84 for two) and then the fixings cost (£30 for two sets) so I decided to try a DIY fix. So far this has worked perfectly! You may find that the heat shields look like this: You may have some good holes/fixings left but some rusted holes and no fixings. I used some aluminium sheet which I cut in a square then pushed into shape and then used "Fire putty" to hold in place and four "pop-rivets" so that is looks like this: Just two things to watch: "pop-rivet" with the head inside and the long part on the outside and also have the "pop-rivets" well spaced (so that they do not interfere with the brackets on the catalytic converters). Then drill a hole in the aluminium plate to match some new "U clips" which you fit on the existing brackets. Screw the covers back in place. This fixed the rattle at virtually no cost just a bit of time! Author PostBox Category Boxster (986) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 05/23/2016 12:53 PM  
  2. This is most probably caused by your heat shields over the catalytic converters. They get rusty and the fixings cannot work properly. I was surprised how much the heat shields (£84 for two) and then the fixings cost (£30 for two sets) so I decided to try a DIY fix. So far this has worked perfectly! You may find that the heat shields look like this: You may have some good holes/fixings left but some rusted holes and no fixings. I used some aluminium sheet which I cut in a square then pushed into shape and then used "Fire putty" to hold in place and four "pop-rivets" so that is looks like this: Just two things to watch: "pop-rivet" with the head inside and the long part on the outside and also have the "pop-rivets" well spaced (so that they do not interfere with the brackets on the catalytic converters). Then drill a hole in the aluminium plate to match some new "U clips" which you fit on the existing brackets. Screw the covers back in place. This fixed the rattle at virtually no cost just a bit of time!
  3. Drop link bolt stuck - how to remove When it is stuck you can try: Or: Or: Or even: Or in fact a combination of the above. The last approach pops off the drop link housing from the ball joint! At this stage try: and then: None of the above worked. The problem I think is that the more you try the more pressure is put on the bolt by opening of the clamp. So the trick is to cut the problem in half and relieve this pressure: It is possible to get a hacksaw into the gap between the plate on the suspension unit and the clamp that the bolt goes through. A full hacksaw would be easier but you will go though the little tab which helps position the suspension unit so if you want to re-use the suspension then use a hacksaw blade holder and only work in front of the tab as below: By the way, holding this unit to be able to work on it is also difficult so the yellow strap shown tightened over a workbench is effective. Now I was able to remove the top half of the bolt as follows: Still the bottom half would not shift. I ended up drilling it: and then some heat and a punch finally worked. The offending items after the trauma: This is a lot of work but at least the only sacrifice is the drop link which is relatively cheap compared to the suspension unit. Without cutting the bolt I am not sure it would have come out. Good luck... Author PostBox Category Boxster (986) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 02/02/2016 12:50 PM Updated 02/03/2016 01:17 PM  
  4. When it is stuck you can try: Or: Or: Or even: Or in fact a combination of the above. The last approach pops off the drop link housing from the ball joint! At this stage try: and then: None of the above worked. The problem I think is that the more you try the more pressure is put on the bolt by opening of the clamp. So the trick is to cut the problem in half and relieve this pressure: It is possible to get a hacksaw into the gap between the plate on the suspension unit and the clamp that the bolt goes through. A full hacksaw would be easier but you will go though the little tab which helps position the suspension unit so if you want to re-use the suspension then use a hacksaw blade holder and only work in front of the tab as below: By the way, holding this unit to be able to work on it is also difficult so the yellow strap shown tightened over a workbench is effective. Now I was able to remove the top half of the bolt as follows: Still the bottom half would not shift. I ended up drilling it: and then some heat and a punch finally worked. The offending items after the trauma: This is a lot of work but at least the only sacrifice is the drop link which is relatively cheap compared to the suspension unit. Without cutting the bolt I am not sure it would have come out. Good luck...
  5. So to summarise: 1 = 74 ft lb = “Corner plate on body” 2 = 118 ft lb = “Corner plate on body with diagonal arm and side member” 3 = 48 ft lb = “Corner plate on side member 4 = 48 ft lb = “Corner plate on side member” 5 = 74 ft lb = “Diagonal brace on body” 6 = 74 ft lb = “Diagonal brace on side member”
  6. Diagram for Porsche Boxster "B-Version" convertible top transmission 2000 - 2004 See attached Diagram Boxster 2000-2004 convertible top diygram.pdf Boxster 2000-2004 convertible top diygram.pdf Author PostBox Category Boxster (986) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 01/11/2014 09:35 AM Updated 01/12/2014 06:44 AM  
  7. See attached Diagram Boxster 2000-2004 convertible top diygram.pdf Boxster 2000-2004 convertible top diygram.pdf
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