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g00sestepper

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Posts posted by g00sestepper

  1. I repaired mine using mesh and plastic welding (a soldering iron with an attachment). It looks far better now but didn't have as much damage on the outside, more of a clean break / crack.

    A couple of the lugs had also broken off on mine (can't see from your pic if you have any missing). To repair, I drilled holes into the lugs and also the panel and used lengths of paper clips as splints. I also used a glue and mesh on them too but be careful to get the correct glue as polyurethane from memory so most glues don't work.

    Overall, it looks perfect on the car now and no damage can be seen. However, If I pick one up cheap in the future then I will replace. They are a small fortune new!

    There is a good diy on the 996 TT showing removal and painting of the rocker panels. The only thing i found easier with this was to reinstall the panel the other way around (I.e. Front to back rather than back to front).

    Hope this helps.

    post-94356-0-54123600-1405403332_thumb.j

    post-94356-0-71688800-1405403379_thumb.j

    post-94356-0-60450400-1405403429_thumb.j

  2. Whacks... no cigar, stripped the bolt. Will be welding a bolt on the bolt. Can't think of anything else. Getting new caliper bolts for each caliper and getting anti seize grease.

    May I suggest hi-temperature anti-seize.

    Hi Loren

    Just curious, is this where Optimol HT comes in?

    Also, I am looking to get some optimol TA. Can you also suggest the 'suite' of loctites (numbers) and when / when not to use them?

    Thanks in advance

  3. I have the 996 WSM with updated thru 2006 plus the OBDII manuals, Diagnostic manual, wiring diagrams up thru 2005, and other updates. PM or email me.

    The 996 manual you have was made in 1999 and no one else ever bothered to get the updates or remake the manual with the later versions like I did. I have the 996 WSM with the update and supplements for the 3.6L engine that you have.

    And Loren YES 2006 was the last POSES update. I have the POSES going back to the 72-83 911 model and the WSM are all in PDFs.

    Thank you for your help with this Porschelibrarian.

    For anyone who requires workshop manuals / POSES etc then it is best to go through Porschelibrarian - fast, efficient, and inexpensive. As you can see from my original post, I have been scratching my head for some time with this, trying to get something which up to date. I have finally succeeded. I wish I had known about this sooner!

    Thanks

    Richard

  4. Mmm, I don't think my PDFs span to that length!

    Illegal? I paid for it on emanuals online so assumed it would be both legitimate and comprehensive.

    Are electronic versions available in full for download rather than paper? Also, where is the best place to get them and how much do they cost?

    Thanks

  5. Loren

    Please excuse my ignorance with this. The manual I got was an electronic download. I thought it might be easy for you to check given that you said that there were 99 updates and so may have a record of what the last update was called (which I would assume is therefore reflected within the contents table as this would have been updated correctly by you!).

    When you say 17 volumes, is there 1 volume per repair section, I.e. Group 5 - body being one and group 3 - transmission?

    Thanks

  6. Hi

    I am unsure whether this post is in the correct area / forum.

    I have a MY2004 996 C4S and over the past few months I have been trying to source proper factory manuals et al for it.

    So far, I have managed to get the following;

    1) PET 7.3 plus updates (342/91).

    2) Bentley manual (this seems to be a pictorial version of number 4 ish).

    3) 101 projects for 996.

    4) Factory manuals - I managed to get some PDFs online which show print dates of 1998/99 (quick google search). I also paid for some which were available on immediate download and they are exactly the same. This download also included POSES (is this just a more structured version of the PDFs above?)......

    I am really confused re number 4 as surely there are updates to the manual? Is this a genuine manual? If so, is it just inserts that are printed off and manual updated? I am quite happy to pay for the real deal (whatever that looks like) as I would like the most up to date info. I have had another look on ebay and someone is selling a manual on cd where extracts of it are shown. I have tried to marry up the pages in the above mentioned where I can find some but they look newer in layout (more like the owners manual with those exclamation marks for notes etc)

    Please could someone kindly explain the bare bones of what is genuine and what isn't?

    Thank you for your help.

  7. Hi

    I am planning on completing a full overhaul of the waterworks on my 2004 c4s and I am busy accumulating all parts required (water pump, lt tstat, entire hose replacements).

    I have been looking into the hose clamp side of things and it seems like it could become quite an expensive job for them given how many looks to be required!

    However, I have come across JCS hi-grip SS clamps being sold by someone else and wrapped up in their packaging (2 for 99p / $1) which is far far less than anywhere else (nearly double that for 1).

    Has anyone come across these or used them before? They do have a British kite mark stamped on them so should be good. There are not many reviews online but of the ones I can see, they get a good write up.

    In terms of sizes, does anyone know what the most and least required sizes and how many approx are required for a full hose change?

    On the shelves (where they may have more in the storeroom), they currently have

    12.5 to 19mm

    19 to 25mm

    28 to 40mm

    38 to 53mm

    Are these sufficient, or would further sizes be required?

    Am I better just biting the bullet and paying for ABA Norma?

    I am unsure of the band width which from researching I understand can be problematic when trying to get water tight... What is the width I should be looking for?

    Also, what is the procedure once you have the hoses off? I have read some TSBs which seems to suggest cleaning the metal pipes with a scotch, dipping the new hose in water, and popping it on then tighten the clamp. I have read other places that suggest adhesives etc..... What is the best course of action from start to finish for this?

    Thanks in advance.

    Stainless worm drives are an excellent alternative, and the sizes you mentioned should suit your needs. Your best bet for correct fitment is to take the old ones off and then go to the parts store to match them up with replacements. Clean all the fittings or surfaces with a Scotch Brite pad. No sealant of any kind is needed. You may also want to acquire a hose removal tool:

    51uahMKBiSL._SL1500_.jpg

    This is a $5 (US) tool you can find anywhere, including Amazon.com, and will make getting the old hoses off a snap.

    Thanks for this John, I will do. A couple of my hoses are showing signs of wear I think..... There are some pink stains around the edges. They are squeezy and not brittle and seem ok..... As a rule of thumb, are they shot and need replacing if they leak at the edges? Or should they be removed and cleaned etc every so often to stop leaks?

    There are worm clips on some of these already but they don't look to be the best of quality..... In the meantime before I start and drain the coolant etc / pressure test, should I replace the worm clips to see if it makes a difference first? (just managed to pick up a used blue point pressure testing tool for peanuts on flea bay - was going to vacuum test too with a uview airlift).

    Also, this may be a stupid question but does the airlift work with a compressor (I.e. Shop air) that blows rather than sucks ..... And the fact that it blows past the t pipe draws the air out of system creating a vacuum? I have a small compressor for car tyres that goes to 250psi and runs off cig lighter socket. If the above is correct, would this do the job do you think?

    When I changed the oil a few weeks ago, the clips weren't on that tight (and the expansion tank was slowly going down prior to this date but hasn't since) so I tightened them up.... Could it be that they are cheapies and so have worked themselves loose?

    Cheers

  8. Hi

    I am planning on completing a full overhaul of the waterworks on my 2004 c4s and I am busy accumulating all parts required (water pump, lt tstat, entire hose replacements).

    I have been looking into the hose clamp side of things and it seems like it could become quite an expensive job for them given how many looks to be required!

    However, I have come across JCS hi-grip SS clamps being sold by someone else and wrapped up in their packaging (2 for 99p / $1) which is far far less than anywhere else (nearly double that for 1).

    Has anyone come across these or used them before? They do have a British kite mark stamped on them so should be good. There are not many reviews online but of the ones I can see, they get a good write up.

    In terms of sizes, does anyone know what the most and least required sizes and how many approx are required for a full hose change?

    On the shelves (where they may have more in the storeroom), they currently have

    12.5 to 19mm

    19 to 25mm

    28 to 40mm

    38 to 53mm

    Are these sufficient, or would further sizes be required?

    Am I better just biting the bullet and paying for ABA Norma?

    I am unsure of the band width which from researching I understand can be problematic when trying to get water tight... What is the width I should be looking for?

    Also, what is the procedure once you have the hoses off? I have read some TSBs which seems to suggest cleaning the metal pipes with a scotch, dipping the new hose in water, and popping it on then tighten the clamp. I have read other places that suggest adhesives etc..... What is the best course of action from start to finish for this?

    Thanks in advance.

  9. I have a Tip so I have the 3rd radiator. I've got new coolant, a new water pump and have cleaned the radiators recently. I have pressure tested my cooling system and it's good. What I noticed after installing the LN low temp unit is the car settles at a lower temp when it first warms up and that temp is noticeably less. However on hot days driving slower speeds the temp will rise to the same max temp the system had before with the OE T-stat. I don't think the stock cooling system is effective enough to keep the car at the temperatures the LN unit (or the stock unit for that matter) open up at in all conditions. Yesterday I was in stop/go traffic in 90 degree weather and it was hot as I've seen the car get. I have a track day monday at Laguna Seca so I'm curious to see if my overall temp stays a little cooler at track speeds.

    Laguna Seca..... how lucky are you! I remember playing Gran Turismo on my PS2 many moons ago...... We have nothing like that in the UK.

    Mine is Tip too. I plan to do all of what you mention above (i haven't even started yet, not even a pressure test). Please can you report back once complete / any learns and helps during installation?

    cheers

  10. I installed an LN low temp T-stat and you're right about it. While my car generally runs cooler overall it still get's as hot as it did before the change. My car did run noticeably hotter overall when I got it due to the original coolant tank cap not holding pressure, not much different then having a leak in your system.

    Hi

    Following this thread since the start..... i have a leak in a couple of places (water pump, front passenger wheel well (RHD car), and elbow hose near pump). I haven't got the car up properly yet to have a look but plan to install new pump, LNtstat and hoses etc. Some very good suggestions on this thread which i will definitely take up, ask questions and report back once i have all parts above to start the job.

    Just in relation to the LN thermostat, i did read the following on the website when ordering;

    'Even if you have cleaned out your radiators, please be advised, some late-model cars do not report actual coolant temperature, so some users will not see any visible change in operating temperature when fitted with a 160F low temperature thermostat.'

    I must admit, if i hadn't seen this, when i eventually fit it and it runs at what appears to be the same temp, i would have felt like i had been taken for a ride / something else wrong!!

    I continually have my eye on the temp and oil gauges and it is almost at the compulsive stage! I need to let go. What will be will be!

    Thanks

    Rich

  11. Thanks John, I will let him know. I wouldn't use one but each to their own I suppose.

    On the topic of oil changes, I have the LN spin on on order where I understand that the filter has to be changed every 6k as it is smaller. I do plan to change the oil every 6k anyway so not an issue.

    My car has a full Opc service history and I plan to continue this.

    1. Will they service it with this on? Do I just supply the filter when I take it in and make them aware of it?

    2. I would like to continue using m1 0w40 and I have noticed on a service receipt that they used Castrol long life 0w40 last time. Due to this, can I also supply the oil with the filter? As detailed at the start of this thread, I can get it for about 25% of the price of what they charge so would also save me quite a bit of cash.

    3. Upon perusing my service book, I have noticed that some of the stamps are missing, not for the actual services but for airbag check and brake fluid change (although the receipts and checklists confirm it has been done). Will they have a record of this and stamp my book accordingly (different Opc)?

    As you may be able to tell, I am totally and utterly anal, and even more so in relation to my car. I therefore apologise for going thread through needle.

  12. I just wanted the ease of the initial suggestions. I don't know why but I don't feel comfortable with the whole jack stand arrangement. Would you say that option 2 above is a no no then, or could it be used (the width of the paddles can be adjusted by quite a margin)?

    I would feel a bit more comfortable with this on the front using the reinforced areas and jack stands on the back though I suppose.....

    Cheers

    As a general proposition, lifts are supposed to keep cars from tilting when being picked up. As someone that spends most of his day under a car on a lift, the idea of one that purposely tilts the car leaves me more than a little bit cold..........

    Hi John

    I hear you, and thank you for your advice. I'm a pen pusher...... what i would give to wrench all day long!

    I have been doing some more digging and have found this:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOBILE-SCISSOR-CAR-LIFT-VEHICLE-LIFT-not-2-post-lift-BRAND-NEW-/281329017781?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item41808423b5

    It doesn't need electricity and uses a foot pump or air......

    I just need to find out how big and heavy it is now!

    Thoughts?

    Regards

    Richard

  13. I just wanted the ease of the initial suggestions. I don't know why but I don't feel comfortable with the whole jack stand arrangement. Would you say that option 2 above is a no no then, or could it be used (the width of the paddles can be adjusted by quite a margin)?

    I would feel a bit more comfortable with this on the front using the reinforced areas and jack stands on the back though I suppose.....

    Cheers

  14. I've seen both race teams and DIY mechanics use the BendPak portable mid rise unit with great success. Big advantage is its swing arms to adjust to various cars like larger lifts and all kinds of adaptors for any project:

    bpi-5175730_us_xl.jpg

    I would love to use one of these..... Forgot to mention above, I have no power socket in the underground either! I therefore need something that is either mechanical or that that can be used with a cordless drill to move up and down.

    Cheers

  15. Hi

    I have been looking around for a while now for a lift for my 996 c4s cab (I live in uk). I live in an apartment with an underground car park and therefore cannot get a 2 post (1, I won't be able to bolt it to the floor and 2, I need something that I can take back upstairs with me).

    This is a semi temp measure as plan to buy a house with a garage at some stage at which time I will buy a good 2 post. I want something that is safe, and that I can potentially utilise in the future too, along with a 2 post.

    Given the above, and that it therefore needs to be relatively easy to carry about, I have short listed it to the following;

    1) an ezcarlift

    http://www.ezcarlift.com/PDFs/ezcarlift_brochure.pdf

    And 2) a tilt lift

    http://www.cjautos.eu/product_p/cl01.htm

    I would love number 1 but it is quite expensive and in addition, don't know whether I could get it shipped to the uk?

    Number 2 seems quite easy to carry (only 60kg) and move and is quite inexpensive for what it is. There is only 1 concern though.......

    I can't place the paddles on the sills as I have rocker panels (and don't want to have to remove them every time to lift the car).

    They are not large enough (like the ez lift) to put blocks on which marry up with the jacking points.

    On the underbelly of the car, from the front to approx the middle on both sides are reinforced areas (see figure 1

    http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/01-BASIC-Jacking_Up_Your_Car/01-BASIC-Jacking_Up_Your_Car.htm

    Which I could use presumably, but the weight is at the back and so this wouldn't work to balance the car.

    Therefore, are there any other areas on the underbelly that I could use which would be safe (as concerned re brake and ac lines and also don't want to bend the pan)?

    Are there any other lifts of this nature that I have missed?

    If someone knows where to get an ezcarlift in the uk for good money then I would be interested.

    Your help would be appreciated with this as I am close to buying a used number 2 (no pun intended) which is quite cheap.

    Regards

    Richard

  16. I have searched the forum and also the web and can't find anything that gives a brief overview of when and when not to disconnect the battery. I was wondering if anyone could give a quick run down?

    I.e. Is there a simple set of rules to abide by?

    Thanks

    When the car is throwing codes or has MIL lit, do not disconnect the battery, otherwise you will lose all the accumulated diagnostic data about what is going on. Get the car scanned first before disconnecting the battery.

    If no codes or once codes are cleared, I would remove negative connection to battery when working on any electrical or anywhere near airbags. Steering wheel removal, door panel removal, seat removal, starter, ignition switch, sound system components, air bags, headlamp switch are the most obvious. If in doubt I always remove the negative battery cable. I place the negative cable clamp in an insulated boot (sock) to prevent accidently connecting it back to the post. Sounds unlikely but you'd be surprised.

    Also, get in the habit of removing the key from the ignition as air bags are never really deactivated until the key is removed.

    Thanks. This is just what I was after. As codes discussed above..... Contemplating getting a durametric........ However, they seem quite pricey and my friend who has a 996 who I could share with is selling it shortly due to another baby. I am certainly not interested in the fake route, and also want to ensure that I can run the latest version of the software.

    The only reason I have hesitated in buying is that the enthusiast package doesn't allow coding, but the professional is over twice the cost! Would you say that the enthusiast is ok for what I would need it for, and to just pay someone with professional if ever required (like retrofitting cruise control et al)?

    Where is the best place to find a genuine with 1 slot left? Does the price reduce significantly due to this? Have searched ebay for past couple of months but haven't come across one during this time period.

    Cheers

    The Durametric is a wise investment and will save you a lot of money over time. For most, the Enthusiast is more than enough. You can often find used units with multiple slots open at good prices, search around, they come up regularly. And use care buying one off flea bay, there are a lot of cheap clones of early units running around that cannot be upgraded, be sure you are getting a cable that is compatible with their Version 6 and later software.

    I have searched the forum and also the web and can't find anything that gives a brief overview of when and when not to disconnect the battery. I was wondering if anyone could give a quick run down?

    I.e. Is there a simple set of rules to abide by?

    Thanks

    When the car is throwing codes or has MIL lit, do not disconnect the battery, otherwise you will lose all the accumulated diagnostic data about what is going on. Get the car scanned first before disconnecting the battery.

    If no codes or once codes are cleared, I would remove negative connection to battery when working on any electrical or anywhere near airbags. Steering wheel removal, door panel removal, seat removal, starter, ignition switch, sound system components, air bags, headlamp switch are the most obvious. If in doubt I always remove the negative battery cable. I place the negative cable clamp in an insulated boot (sock) to prevent accidently connecting it back to the post. Sounds unlikely but you'd be surprised.

    Also, get in the habit of removing the key from the ignition as air bags are never really deactivated until the key is removed.

    Thanks. This is just what I was after. As codes discussed above..... Contemplating getting a durametric........ However, they seem quite pricey and my friend who has a 996 who I could share with is selling it shortly due to another baby. I am certainly not interested in the fake route, and also want to ensure that I can run the latest version of the software.

    The only reason I have hesitated in buying is that the enthusiast package doesn't allow coding, but the professional is over twice the cost! Would you say that the enthusiast is ok for what I would need it for, and to just pay someone with professional if ever required (like retrofitting cruise control et al)?

    Where is the best place to find a genuine with 1 slot left? Does the price reduce significantly due to this? Have searched ebay for past couple of months but haven't come across one during this time period.

    Cheers

    I would make a post on this site under the "Classified Section". I bought the enthusiast package but later upgraded to the professional, just because I needed it for more than 3 vehicles. Also I don't believe the enthusiast version will activate the OBC. I would call the good folks at Durametric. They are very helpful.

    Classified Section PRESS HERE

    Hi

    That was the thing I was concerned about John. The supplier of durametric in the uk is Hickleys from memory. Is it safe to say that any new one bought from them would be 2nd gen and therefore be compatible with v6?

    Kbrandsma, if I can pick one up at a reasonable price that can run the latest version of the software then I would be quite happy with the enthusiast version. I just feel that if I am spending that sort of money new then why not go the whole hog and get the professional....... Decisions decisions. I will post a classified now. Thanks for this, I didn't know it existed on this site! Full of surprises.

    Regards

  17. I have searched the forum and also the web and can't find anything that gives a brief overview of when and when not to disconnect the battery. I was wondering if anyone could give a quick run down?

    I.e. Is there a simple set of rules to abide by?

    Thanks

    When the car is throwing codes or has MIL lit, do not disconnect the battery, otherwise you will lose all the accumulated diagnostic data about what is going on. Get the car scanned first before disconnecting the battery.

    If no codes or once codes are cleared, I would remove negative connection to battery when working on any electrical or anywhere near airbags. Steering wheel removal, door panel removal, seat removal, starter, ignition switch, sound system components, air bags, headlamp switch are the most obvious. If in doubt I always remove the negative battery cable. I place the negative cable clamp in an insulated boot (sock) to prevent accidently connecting it back to the post. Sounds unlikely but you'd be surprised.

    Also, get in the habit of removing the key from the ignition as air bags are never really deactivated until the key is removed.

    Thanks. This is just what I was after. As codes discussed above..... Contemplating getting a durametric........ However, they seem quite pricey and my friend who has a 996 who I could share with is selling it shortly due to another baby. I am certainly not interested in the fake route, and also want to ensure that I can run the latest version of the software.

    The only reason I have hesitated in buying is that the enthusiast package doesn't allow coding, but the professional is over twice the cost! Would you say that the enthusiast is ok for what I would need it for, and to just pay someone with professional if ever required (like retrofitting cruise control et al)?

    Where is the best place to find a genuine with 1 slot left? Does the price reduce significantly due to this? Have searched ebay for past couple of months but haven't come across one during this time period.

    Cheers

  18. The level sounds fine to me. I find it easier to push the filter up all the way to seat it firmly first before installing the housing.

    I like to keep them 1 to 1 1/2 bars down from the full mark on the electronic level. Problem with the "full" bar is you can't see over it, so it is hard to see being over filled, which is particularly a problem on the cars without dipsticks.

    The level sounds fine to me. I find it easier to push the filter up all the way to seat it firmly first before installing the housing.

    I like to keep them 1 to 1 1/2 bars down from the full mark on the electronic level. Problem with the "full" bar is you can't see over it, so it is hard to see being over filled, which is particularly a problem on the cars without dipsticks.

    Makes sense. The OP used the dipstick and said "...the dipstick shows over the full line (where it is about 1.5mm over)." I would not think that 1.5mm makes any appreciable diff hence my comment. But yea if you're worried about 1.5mm overfill on the dipstick, you can always remove the oil from the filter like John suggested.

    Thanks guys, feel more comfortable about it now and more informed for next time. I won't be overly concerned about dropping some this time..... If I'm at a loose end, I now have an excuse to tinker.

    For future reference, if I remove the filter housing to complete the above, does the o ring need to be changed again or is it ok to reuse if only a few days old?

    Cheers

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