dphatch

 I'm pretty sure I've got the coils going back on the proper struts but was looking for a way to be make sure. As front suspension parts keep coming off work bench space got used up quick.

All other parts were ordered based on duplicating the existing part numbers. When you say "compensation spacer" are you referring to rubber spacers that mate to support ring ?  If so, I was able to determine the part number on the space. 

If the color code is one top of the coil spring and the spacer itself, I won't if they match know until I get the parts in.

Thanks.  Do you know if they side specific or identical ?  

Currently in the process of rebuilding front struts on a 2007 C4S and need to know if front coil springs have any markings to help identify the left rom the right after they have been removed from the strut ? 

Am wanting to replace the spring loaded belt tensioner# 997 102 260 00,  not the pulley attached to.  All of the idler and accessary pullies (AC, alternator, Water pump) are functioning normally. My original Google search shows lots of how too'sI for replacing auxiliary pullies and belt  replacement but nothin covering the actual belt tensioner itself. 

The drive belt tensioner on my '07 C4S is getting harder and harder to actuate when removing/replacing the serpentine belt. There is also a great deal of tension on the belt itself that feels excessive. Given the age of the part, I'd like to replace it, ( all belt pullies have already been replaced). Has anyone seen/developed a DIY video/write-up on the process and could point me in that direction ? Given it's  location it appears to fairly involved and would like some help identifying all that's involved from someone who has don't it. 

Great,  that answers my questions and confirms what I had heard regarding the oil levels and its effect on the AOS. Unfortunately that info was not widely distributed either during the lifetime of the first AOS or that of the replacement so they where both self-destructing as a result.  The owners manual makes no mention of that issue nor did the local dealership when they filled the sump to the line above the "fill line " the few times I let them change it. I will follow that advice from now on and feel better about the potential lifespan the new part may enjoy after the install.  Thanks.  

It  wasn't after market as it  was purchased from Sunset Porsche directly,  prt #  997-107-038-00,  in July 2014 .  New part number still ends in 00  so should I expect to get the same  service from it IE..   life span of the factory part ?  Is the racing version of the part worth the $800 + price tag for a street car drive with gusto , but well short of racetrack gusto and that only with the hope a semi-permanent  fix ? 

One other question, the 2 parts they call "oil separators " that appear to go to either side of the engine ( in Sunsets parts diagram they carry the same part number as the main AOS  )  do you know what function they serve and should I replace as the same time  assuming they are external and not internal parts ?

Can anyone tell me if there are any signs of the failure for the internal AOS for 2007 997 C4S. I have read several posts regarding the primary AOS but none relating to the internal 2 internal versions.

Have replaced one faulty AOS with a tear in internal membrane but would like to rule out issues that may arise with the internal versions before I replace a second primary AOS.

Thanks JFP, system took just under 2 lbs and working like new. 

I get "C" codes every time I use my Durametric tool and, in my 12 years of ownership of my car,  have never experienced any issues with systems for which the "C" codes refer. Have also read that these codes aren't  necessarily  referencing a failed system as is the case with "P"  codes but are informational in nature.  Resetting codes will get these C codes to go away only to have them resurface next time I go into the system. In light of the fact that there have been no failures of any of the systems noted by these codes,  and while they may mean something to a Porsche tech ,  I stopped worrying about them some time ago without incident.

As an update, could not source the tool  to remove the clutch so replaced compressor that included new clutch and pully assembly.  Given the price of just the  replacement clutch/pully assembly, the cost for a new compressor  ( $325 tax and shipping included for an identical DENSO replacement from the OEM manufacturer ) and the fact that the existing compressor was  12 yrs old , it did not make sense to continue the mess with replacing the clutch on a 12 yr old compressor. 

As I recall when I replaced front pads they were not evenly worn either but can't say what impact, if any, it  had on braking performance As for the lip, wear limit on the disc is 2mm, if  lip measures 1.5mm now it would make sense to me to replacing front discs while you're at it. Not sure it would make financial sense to them turned even if you could find someone to do it these days. As for brake fluid , I use Pentosin Dot 4 in my '07  as it is Porsche recommended.  Brake fluids designed for track use have a higher boiling point than those formulated for street use and as such aren't necessary for street use in my opinion. Good article from Hemmings web site on brake fluid below.

https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2013/12/06/tech-101-brake-fluids-whats-different-about-them-and-why-should-you-care/

First thing to check would be a bad fuse if switch isn't working at all. If switch will raise and lower window you need to completely raise and lower the driver and passenger windows  twice to reprogram window any time battery has been disconnected, or I our in your case, completely discharged .

As for door , check the that position on the switch in the over head console is in the center position. . Battery going dead would not  effect the door lights once battery issue was corrected.

Can anyone tell me the amount of Freon needed to refill AC system on 2007 997.1  after it has been refit and the system has been evacuated ?

Thanks for responding. All the YouTube videos, while limited, I watched of guy's  removing the clutch from Denso units on Porsches showed it coming right off,  almost falling off as a matter of fact.  Being pressed on  would explain why nothing I tried would budge it. Local Autozone did not have anything in the way removal tools that would fit the threads of the clutch but found one set  on Amazon that claims to work on Denso units. Will order one up and  see.

While I've got you, I found 2  specs for bearing …  30  x 52 x 20  and 35 x 52 x 20. Can you confirm which is correct ?     

Having difficulty removing ac clutch/pully to replace bad pully bearing .  Have removed bolt securing the clutch to pully but can not remove it.  AC is functional and is switched off- negative battery terminal removed. Am confused as to why, if the clutch will engage and disengage, when actuated why it will not come off the ac compressor shaft ? Any suggestions would be appreciated.  

Loren,  I think you are exactly right. My mistake. Guess it was the "cracked tank" comment that got me going as only cracked issue I've had was with coolant tank.  Hope all will accept my  apology.

I have done this and the removal and replacement of the coolant tank, even with the engine lowered, is not a simple task as the tank is fully encased in the engine bay, is oddly shaped and quite long.(I am willing to bet is was installed prior to the engine install when these cars were manufactured.  Not sure why you would want to remove any tires/wheels  in an effort to remove it from underneath the car as there is no access to the tank from underneath the car.  Maybe if you took mufflers and muffler carrier brackets out ???  I would love to see that video. I removed and replaced tank from engine bay directly and while getting it out was a chore, getting it back in was something else again. Disconnecting stuff was the easy part but still requires some creativity. Getting the tank back in, on the other hand ,  requires lots of creativity and the patients of Job as the tank has to be positioned at just such and angle, due to the length odd shape  so as to allow it to  go in unhindered by  existing engine bay stuff. Need to memorize exactly how it came out I guess. Certainly do-able but not a 1 wrench.

Have you entertained the idea of having the car wrapped instead ? A professionally done full spray color change ( door jams, engine bay, etc..). will cost you a small fortune and my never look like it factory  paint. Wrap on the other might be couple grand or so and could be removed prior to sale or if you wanted to change it again.  Given the lack of responses it might be easier to find someone to wrap the car vs paint it in your immediate area. Good luck with the project either way.

225 is not out of spec for a 997 oil temp so nothing likely is wrong with oil temp gauge. Coolant is cooled  by front radiators. Same coolant is used to reduce oil temp through a heat exchanger located on the top of the engine. Not the ideal method of cooling oil but it's plays a roll in keeping engine up to optimal temp for emission control.  Adding the 3rd radiator can assist in keeping temp down a bit. My cars oil runs at around 215 but can hit 225 on hot days in normal or slow traffic. 3rd  radiator greatly improve oil temp recovery time  back to my normal 215.  Prior to installing,  temp would be slow to come down, if at all,  once it reached that 225 temp. 

Looking for some recommendations  on  manual transmission rebuilders in the Midwest. 2007 997 C4S exhibiting unwillingness to engage reverse gear. Recent clutch replacement. All forward gears engage fully and no issues downshifting while driving, only issue is when engaging reverse, the  synchro will not fully engage. Cables have been checked and are not the issue. All gears can be engaged manually at tranny and with shifter when car is stationary, engine running and off. With transmission removed from car no symptoms on a mechanical problem were apparent. Tranny oil replacement with Mobilube PTX is next step but if that doesn't remediate the problem only other solution is tranny teardown and rebuild. 

These would EPA compliant 48 state legal DEC cats. Spec'd specifically for model , engine and year from Parts Geek. Am guessing they may lower cell count but street but street legal and a whole lot less than $ 2300 OEM Porsche cats which is  significant upcharge for a logo.

Getting ready to ship a new car from east coast dealer to my home in the Midwest.  Can anyone give me some suggestions transport guys they have used and had good experience with ?  First time for me so any advice would be appreaciated.

Time to replace catalytic converters on my 2007 C4S with 72 K miles.   Has anyone had experience with 48 state legal cats throwing codes after install ? 

Your right and we're talking about the came part as the area of the spring is the weakest point of part.  The most common name I found for it was  "door lock pivot " so I used that one when looking for advice. One Porsche dealers site refers to it as a " mount bracket " .  Despite the description are the  997.555.381.03 for the drivers door. Passenger door number is different ( 382 vs 381).