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dphatch

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Posts posted by dphatch

  1. Hi all this is my first post and my first Porsche so forgive my ignorance !

    I have just brought a 2006 911 997 carrera S.

    I was looking for a hard top on ebay and have seen quite a 996 ones.

    Will a 996 hard top fit a 997 car?

    Best Regards

    Paul.

    The hardtops themselves are all the same, it's the attachment hardware that is different. Am waiting for the top I bought on Ebay a week ago to retrofit to my '07 C4S. Will be here next week and after I check out what it has for attachment hardware I can order the attachment posts and mounts for the top. Suspect it has the older posts but as it may have been retrofit at one time am waiting to order the parts. The '05 and later 997's do not have the hard top mounts installed at the factory like the 996's did so they need to be purchased and install. Installing the mounts is a 10-15 minute job. As there are at least two different kinds of posts and mounts they need to be ordered them together. At some point will post the outcome of the project.

  2. Hi guys an gals, I did a search on smoke and came up with alot of people seeing smoke on startup.

    My car 01 Boxter S 45k, recently ( 1 month ago) did the white smoke on startup after sitting for 5 days pretty bad. Then mornings after nothing really. This morning it smoked medium to light. On way home ( 18 miles into a 20 mile trip) it smoked so bad you couldnt see behind you.

    I pulled over. The exhaust tips has what appears to be oil in them smoking. It smells bad. A kid stopped had an opinion.

    First a note : got the oil changed in it two weeks ago Mobil one. After the first initial smoke issue one month ago

    The kid and I checked the oil and it appears to be overfull, its above the lines in the dipstick. We didn't observe any water in the oil, it looked clean no white. The car runs good, the water temp light was blinking but never went above 190. The dipstick when pulled was smoking.The oil cap when twisted off did not smoke.

    He thought maybe it was burning oil from being overfull but the car has been driven 3-400 miles since its change. Maybe a seal?

    The bad part is its PM here and we leave tomorrow very early for the east coast where we are getting married.So its going to sit for 10 days. I will be monitoring this post while there, I have easy INTERNET access.

    Should I drain the oil a bit? And then bring to a shop?

    I know it should go in but I'm looking for solutions.

    I have been told it might be the oil air separator. If so does anyone know what the procedure is to fix this, meaning. I have a shop in my small town that can work on it but cant communicate with the computer. So all he can do is see if the OAS has oil in it etc. Whatever the tell tales are I guess.

    Also should it be towed, again it ran fine for two miles to my house and the shop is 2 miles away.

    Thanks you

    Thanks

    If you can't find anything here the Pelican Parts tech site of Porsche Pete's Boxster Board will have how to's with detailed instructions and pictures. It's not a complicated R & R but access is tight at times. Good news is the replacement part has been improved since your model year end is less likely to fail in the same way the older ones did. To be on the safe side I wouldn't drive the car anymore until you've isolated and fixed the problem. Good luck and I hope the OAS turns out to be the problem.

  3. Hi guys an gals, I did a search on smoke and came up with alot of people seeing smoke on startup.

    My car 01 Boxter S 45k, recently ( 1 month ago) did the white smoke on startup after sitting for 5 days pretty bad. Then mornings after nothing really. This morning it smoked medium to light. On way home ( 18 miles into a 20 mile trip) it smoked so bad you couldnt see behind you.

    I pulled over. The exhaust tips has what appears to be oil in them smoking. It smells bad. A kid stopped had an opinion.

    First a note : got the oil changed in it two weeks ago mobil one. After the first initial smoke issue one month ago

    The kid and I checked the oil and it appears to be overfull, its above the lines in the dipstick. We didnt observe any water in the oil, it looked clean no white. The car runs good, the water temp light was blinking but never went above 190. The dipstick when pulled was smoking.The oil cap when twisted off did not smoke.

    He thought maybe it was burning oil from being overfull but the car has been driven 3-400 miles since its change. Maybe a seal?

    The bad part is its 9pm here and we leave tommorrow very early for the east coast where we are getting married.So its going to sit for 10 days. I will be monitoring this post while there, I have easy internet access.

    Should I drain the oil a bit? And then bring to a shop?

    I know it should go in but im looking for solutions.

    I have been told it might be the oil air seperator. If so does anyone know what the procedure is to fix this, meaning. I have a shop in my small town that can work on it but cant communicate with the computer. So all he can do is see if the AOS has oil in it etc. Whatever the tell tales are I guess.

    Also should it be towed, again it ran fine for two miles to my house and the shop is 2 miles away.

    Thanks you

    Thanks

  4. Hi,

    My little girl left one of her toys on my 997 cab. I was not aware, today I opened the roof. The toy got stuck and prefented the roof cover to close correctly (the cover near the engine hood that covers the hood when the top is down).

    I now need the adjust the closing of my top cover (there is one seam on the side which is now too wide). I noticed two bolts underneath the top on each side which give a bit of adjustablilty. Just wondering whether there are more possibilities to adjust the topcover?

    Thanks, frank

    While probably adjustable ,after taking a look at mine it would appear adjusting things would be a complicated task given the number and complexity of attachment points. Good news is the various lever arms appear to be made of sturdy stuff and, I would guess, not easily bent. The cover itself is another story. If it appears to be unaffected I think you repair cost just went way down. While more than willing to take on a challenging repair myself from time to time, I don't think I'd attempt adjusting things on this particular contraption. Dealer could be your only solution. Good luck with it.

  5. Am surprised that the PS2's are louder. Had a set of Yokohama AVS 100's on my '01 Boxster and as they wore they become louder to the point that it sounded like I was driving a truck. The PS2's on my '07 C4S are much more quiet despite being much wider and lower profile. I suspect that the tread design on the AVS' had a lot to do with the sound and while not certain, believe the angled tread pattern has something to do with it.

  6. I am the owner of a 2001 tip Baxter 38000 miles and am having locking problems. I went to a local indie who found two codes 61 and 47. One is a communication problem but he couldn't find the description of the other. Which is which, I do not remember. In any event, I was getting the double beep sporadically. The gas lid needed to be unlocked using the key in the door and the passenger door had to be released from the inside. He cleared the codes and we are now looking for further guidance in fixing the issue. When I picked the car up and locked it, double beep came on with the unlocking. We or he thinks the alarm module may be defective. What do you think? :rennet: :rennet:

    Had a similar, but not exactly the same issue, with my Boxster after I had removed the radio. There's a ground contact on the side of the radio that tells the alarm system that the radio is still in place. If you don't get the radio back in correctly it'll cause the system to double beep when it's armed. Doesn't explain the gas door problem though which could be caused by a defective fuel door locking mechanism. If it's not locking that may be causing the alarm fault.

  7. Will be looking for winter wheels and tires soon for MY07 C4S and would prefer 18" OEM wheels with the correct offest for a wide body car to eliminate the need for spacers. Are the offsets of the OEM wheels for earlier cars listed somewhere ? Was thinking wheels for a 996 turbo or a 996 C4S would work. While I understand the logic of the smaller wheels and more narrow tires for snow, I won't need to drive it snow. I will drive in cold weather and maybe get caught in an occassional dusting though. Any reason to follow the smaller wheel - narrow tire rule in that case ? Any suggestions on wheels would be appreciated.

  8. I had a Smart top for my Boxster and loved being able to open close the top with only one touch of the bottom. Now that I've got the 997 Cab I would like to have the ability to the same. However, I really don't need all the other features, most of which I can do already from the factory. My question is will the Smart Top unit I used for my 2001 Boxster work in the 2007 997 ? If so, would it wire up the same ? If not, does anyone know if the Smart Top people, or anyone else, have a less option packed( less expensive ) gadget that will just allow me to open and close the top without holding down the switch ?

    While I'm on the subject, when openning and closing the top there doesn't seem to be specific point at which the process ends. I either get the "top latch not seated warning" or I have to hold the switch long enough to get the windows moving before I can let the switch go without getting the warning. Wouls appreciate any thoughts on my delema. Thanks.

    US 2007 C4S CAB 6spd

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