dphatch

Static voltage at battery was 12.59, at idle 13.80

DME voltage, engine compartment fan running but all else turned off, 13.71

Ordered the cable as all appears within the JFP's recommendations . Will retest after install of the cable and post the results as a followup.

Looking to varify that the variance between the voltage reading at the alternator and the voltage reading at the battery is possible cause of slow cranking when car is hot. From what I have read the normal voltage at the alternator should be 14.7 volts. A drop of .5 volts or more at the battery suggests resistance exists in the charging curcuit between these two points and the most common cause appears to be the alternator/starter/battery harness. I have also read that the issue is not limited to the '05 and '06 cars. Before I replace it I'm looking for confirmation of same. Battery checks out as being sound and, with the exception of hot starts, the car starts from cold or after a sufficient cooling period.If I'm going about this the wrong way would appreciate any guidance you can offer.

When we get a car with a suspect cable problem, we disconnect the cable and check it for internal resistance using a digital multimeter. These cables should have no resistance; if we find any, the cable gets replaced. This is a fairly common problem.

You can do the same thing by measuring voltage drop to get to the same place, but you need to be cautious because that method cannot pinpoint which cable is the problem if the harness has more than one cable or a connector in it.

So comparing the results from the Durametric to the voltage reading at the battery + terminal won't offer confirmation ?

As an update, checked the Durametric voltage at DME and it reads anywhere from 12.96 to 13.12 with AC, Radio and front cooling fans and engine at idle. Voltage at battery + terminal under the same conditions varied between 13.10 and 13.56. Engine was fully warmed up.

Hi dphatch,

You need to do a voltage drop test on both the positive side and the negative of the circuit using a DVOM. I found a video that will make it simple to understand however its not on a Porsche :). As the saying goes a picture is worth a thousand words. Hope this helps.

That would be a big help as an alternator is an alternator, but I'm not seeing the video attachment. Could you try it again ?

Looking to varify that the variance between the voltage reading at the alternator and the voltage reading at the battery is possible cause of slow cranking when car is hot. From what I have read the normal voltage at the alternator should be 14.7 volts. A drop of .5 volts or more at the battery suggests resistance exists in the charging curcuit between these two points and the most common cause appears to be the alternator/starter/battery harness. I have also read that the issue is not limited to the '05 and '06 cars. Before I replace it I'm looking for confirmation of same. Battery checks out as being sound and, with the exception of hot starts, the car starts from cold or after a sufficient cooling period.

If I'm going about this the wrong way would appreciate any guidance you can offer.

Is that the voltage that shows as terminal 30 ? Was not sure if that was the same result as taking a physical reading at the alternator itself. If not , what specific section would give me the reading ?

Any tricks to accessing the B + terminal on my alternator ? Wanting to test terminal voltage prior to ordering new cable and there is absolutely no room behind the alternator to get to the terminal. Short of removing it, how does one test the voltage output at this terminal ?

Hello ALL-

I had my water pump replaced approximately 2 years ago with an OEM pump, after topping off my car with coolant the water temp now goes a bit past the standard 12PM position, I did not burp it, can this cause the slight over heating issue?

Could someone lend a bit more advice on how exactly to use the "burp top" that is located over the fill hole.

Thanks!!!

Could very well be trapped air. Burp valve needs to be openned before the cooling system reaches normal op temp. link below outlines air bleeding proceedure.

http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Install_3rd_Radiator_%26_Coolant_System_Bleeding_Instructions.html

You bet. The first thing I saw in a 993 TT when the fuel level sender went south was the fuel guage sticking on refuels.

did that and the O ring looks like new. i got a strong gasoline odor though when i removed the cap which i don't recall ever getting before. last time I refueled it took a while for the fuel level indicator to get to the full level from the 3/4 mark. not sure if either are related

Check engine light came on this morning while out for coffee. Codes tht came up where 461, which is for Fuel level sensor and 455 which is for the fuel tank indicating a major leak. No issues noted with the car and cetainly no major fuel leak. Planning to erase the codes and see if they come back but thought I might check in here first. Car has never thrown any codes since new so these two seem a little strange as the first ones.

Hard top will fit but , unlike the later 996's there are no locks installed on 997's at the factory to secure the top so they need to be purchased and installed. Locks for the early tops will fit the 997.1 and the install is straight forward. There are many posts and DIY's on the subject. Do a search on this forum and 6speed .

Got stuck again. I accidentally left the key in the ignition and ofcourse couple of days later, the battery is dead.

Well just like in the past, I was able to get the key out using the red fuse in the fuse box with the hood picture on it but the button on the key FOB isn't working this time?

I even changed the battery in the Key but still no luck?

So what are my options at this time?

Can I open the hood directly via that fuse in the fuse box rather then using the key?

Gotta do something about this stupid dead battery thing though?

Thanks

If you can get to the jump lug, am assuming that's what you mean by "red fuse ", all you need to do is attach a 12 volt battery and pull the front hood switch in the door sill. Then you need to find your owners manual as it is filled with useful information about your car. Then remove your dead battery, disconnecting the negative terminal first, and take it to Autozone, or nearest equivilent, and have them check it out to see if it will hold a charge. Might also want to invest in a CTek battery maintainer while you're at it. Remembering to use it will eliminate future dead battery issues even if you leave the key in the car again.

I might suggest you get a qualified mechanic to diagnose your problem before you throw more money replacing parts that may not be causing your problem. Your second post regarding this same noise suggests that you're replacing stuff without having first determined what needs to be replaced. Costly approach to automotive repair particularly on a car like a Porsche where the parts aren't cheap.

The Sport Chrono is controlled by the trip computer stalk and only operates when it is activated / turned on at the stalk. If you are actuating it from the stalk and neither your chrono nor your friends workes I'd check to see if you are getting power to the chrono when you active it. If not next step would be fuse panel than possibly a faulty control relay.

How long does it stay on ? Does it go out when you lock the car ? Have you checked the lighting setting on PCM ? Not likely that only the center position of the switch is failing so must be something else. Give us a little more to go on.

Autozone sells 'em. Have one in my '07 C4S and it works great. Has the proper terminals and vent tube.

Might just you take it to your dealer and let them advise you. Most don't do paint and body but they'll have some one they use that they have experience with. Definitely want a shop familiar with high end cars. When they're done you'll never know it was dented but you might remember how much it cost you to get it fixed. Insurance even pays you for being stupid but don't ask me how I know. :)

Henrik68 you're living on the edge, and I cleaned that up for the forum police, driving an unsorted car at that speed on a public highway. Hope you alert your friends before you get out on the public road again so they can steer clear.... Lose control at that speed and they don't send out an ambulance, just the guys with shovels to clean up the mess.

After you have had a chance to have the car set up properly for high speed driving, maybe you'll find a proper race track to test your skills on .

I've driven 7K since I bought my 2007 C4S 1.5 years ago and have decided to change my oil/filter prior to the Porsche recommended 15K because of what I've read on this forum. I've read thru the DIY oil change forums but thinking about going thru a dealer since I no experience doing it myself. Few questions:

1) What is the approximate price I would expect to pay a non-dealer for an oil change?

Use the Mobil 1 you have so long as you have 9 qts which is what it will take with a filter change. If your mechanic won't do it, find another mechanic.

2) I have a case of Mobil 0W-40 but a local guy said he uses his own oil. If he also uses 0W-40 from a different manufacturer or even 5W-40, is it possible to mix; like if I have to add oil can I use the Mobil oil?

Don't mix oils. Stick with the Mobil 1 or other Porsche approved oil. Top up with same oil between changes.

3) Do I need to change my oil filter and if so is there a special brand I should consider?

Lot's of options but I always use OEM.

Always change the filter with the oil. I always use an OEM filter despite the fact that lot's of manufactures make filters for Porsches.

4) Should I have them install a magnetic drain plug and if so how difficult is this (i.e. should I need to pay extra)?

If you want a magnetic drain plug buy one , along with the proper seal ring, and ask your mechanic to install. If he/she refuses find another mechanic. Should be a no additional effort /no additional cost transaction. LN engineering sells one for the 997. Not cheap but high quality.

5) Does anyone know any reputable non-dealers near Iowa City for an oil change? What would be the best way to find this out? PCA?

Can't help you on this one.

Any other questions I should ask the oil change guy that I can't think of?

Make sure your mechanic doesn't over tighten the oil drain plug. Snug is sufficient. Overtightening will strip the drain hole threads.

Do not over fill. Partial fill oil filter receptical when installing reduces starting up oil starvation. Should't need more than 8 1/2 quarts total including the oil used to partial fill the oil filter.

Thanks. Noticed on the Yellow Dog site the extended cables. While I know there isn't much extra length in either cable are the extended cables necessary ? Mounting plates appear to place the battery fully to the drivers side so am thinking the negative cable will work as is. Is the extended positive cable needed to reach the repositioned battery ?

Update:

Ever since I had this problem and it went away, its never come back, I suspect the computer just went sideways and fixed itself in the course of a few days later.

Yesterday I went to my mechanic and had a routine oil/oil filter/drain plug change as well as a full scan and checkup for my 997.1. They couldn't find anything error codes out of the ordinary, aside from a couple of engine misfire codes. Aside from that, a near future water pump/rear brake pad replacement, everything checked out fine.

The winters coming so we'll see if I ever get that weird problem with the temperature gauge going sideways again, I'll throw up an update.

Would suggest you include replacing the thermostate when you do the water pump. As the water pumps on these cars are considered wear items by many , I wouldn't wait too long on the water pump replacement. While it may only be showing minor seepage now, a full blown failure should be avoided at all cost and they have been known to fail.

A lot of people use the Optima AGM battery, myself included; the Oddessy has been a bit more problematic due to low CCA output, particularly in colder weather (most of the so-called "racing bettery' manufacturers use a cobbled up cranking amp test designed to hide the battery's lower output). Some have also noted lights dimming when the audio amp kicks in, another sign of the unit's lower capacity.

Optima does not suffer from any of these draw backs.

On their site, Optima doesn't list any batteries at all for any Porsche vehicles. What's that all about ? My understanding was that the 34R was the battery of choice for the 997.

No one using any kind of dry cell or AGM type battery ???????

997-603- 012-FX-M14 is the only Bosch part number Pelican shows as the OEM suppliers part. No other numbers listed. If you're still in doubt call Suncoast parts and ask 'em.

Did a search but came up empty. Would like to know if anyone is using an Odyssey 925 or 1200 battery in their 997 and if so what has been your experience with regards to starting a hot engine and general battery life when the car is sitting idle for short periods of time, say a few days. Thanks.