dphatch

Check the fuse in location E1.

Any update on the success, or failure, of the throttle body replacement ? You got me hooked on the story line here and now I've got to now how it all tured out.

If it can be welded, take it to a muffler shop. If it can be repaired they'll

know how to do it. Muffler is a muffler.

Replacing 2 ignition switches on the same car and now a third switch defies the odds. Have read that one potential cause of switch failure is having too much weight on your key ring which prematurely wears out the sensitive interior parts of the switch. Not sure how much is too much but if you a lot of keys or a heavy fob on your key ring I'd put your key ring on a diet. Only thing on my key ring, other than the key, is a leather Porsche key fob and I have never had to replace an ignition switch.

The reason a high compression flat engine uses more oil is due to the fact that when the engine is stopped all the oiI that was lubricating the cylinders doesn't drain back into the oil sump because the cylinders are placed flat ( horizotal and not vertical) in the engine. As a result, this residual oil has a tendency to seep past the piston rings into the combustion chamber when thhe engine is at rest, where, at start up, it is burned off. Engines left to sit for longer periods sometimes exhibit the puff of smoke many Porsche owners experience at start up which is common and normal for these engines. The smoke is the residual oil being burned off. Every other type of engine has its cylinders either vertical, as in a straight four or six cylinder , or at an angle that allows all the oil coating the cylinders to drain back into the engine sump when the engine is turned off. Daily drivers that are driven longer distances tend to get more miles per quart of oil because consumption when the engine is warmed up and running is similar to any other straight or " V " type engines. Run it for longer periods of time between start ups and you'll use less oil per mile. While there are other issue that can contribute to excessive oil consumption in this or any other type of engine the flat engine design is a key contributor in a Porsche engine.

Have you looked under the latch cover to see if the attachment points for the latch are loose of if there is a way to adjust the tension in the latch itself ? I searched all the bigger forums and came up empty but the latch must be attached to leading edge of the top frame and there should be a method of adjusting any slack in the area where the top meets the windshield frame itself. I would guess it's spring loaded to allow for chassis flex but there's got to be a way to adjust it.

Nothing I'm aware of. Should be plug and play and a simple swap.

I just mounted a set of Sottozero II's on a dedicated set of 19" Lobster claws. Sizes were 235-35-19's and 295-30-19's . They're a little hard to find but everything I read indicated they make for a great winter set up for those living in colder climates. As your C4S comes with 19" wheels you can swap your summers for winters without the need for dedicated wheels if you're not loooking to invest in another set of wheels and TPMS sensors. Hoping to get 3 or 4 seasons of of them.

Kind of hard to believe the problem has been looked into 3 times by 2 different shops and no one can diagnose your issue ? I will assume they replaced the shift fork along with the throwout bearing, so beyond that, it sounds like you've got crankshaft bearing issues as one respondent has already suggested as there are no other moving parts where you say the noise is coming from. Time to find another repair shop.

There is definitely an issue with the mechanism that animates the top and I'm surprised the dealer gave it a good bill of health. An independent Porsche shop might be able to give you a more accurate diagnosis. Could be as simple as lubricating the actuating arms on the weak side but I have never had to do it so can't give you any DIY help here.

Measure the battery with a ruler and go

to any parts store to get a same size battery.

Still costs some money.

Paul

Just make sure that the battery is vented like the original or use a gel cell type battery like a Optima or Braille.

5 years is pushing the useful life of these batteries and while there is always the occasional exception ( 6 to forever years ) the rule is 5 maybe 6 years is all you get from the batteries in these cars. Get a new battery and a trickle charger. I use the CTEK but just be aware that if you have a power outage the CTEK will not restart itself and will need to be reset in order to work. If you are going to leave the car unattended for long periods of time the CTEK would not be my choice.

Try looking for the pads on the soft top clam shell cover. I'm not sure but they appear very similar to the pads on the hard top and serve the same purpose so I'd give it a shot.

If cost is no object any decent stereo installer can install the correct module to interface directly with the PCM. But for $ 50 bucks or so you can get the kit with the radio interface that works by running through an unused station on the FM radio. Not as fancy but the sound isn't any worse than a regular radio station if you experiment a bit to find the best respection on the PCM and the install is simple. Power cord just plugs into the extra 12 volt receptical in the passenger foot well and the antenna wil stick to any magnetic surface. Spend as much or as little time as you want hidding the wires but even that's not that challenging. A cost effective alternative to spending a grand or so just so you can read the channel lineup on the PCM.

Hi Folks,

I have had somewhat of a checkered history with my 911 - the fun factor has been diluted by lots of niggles like squeaking windows and creaking dashboards - basically stuff that I might have expected in 'lesser' car. Also the 5 point speeding ticket I got last weekend took the sheen off a bit but that was nothing to having just found out how my insurance company are going to use that as an excuse to gouge me for the next three years - still thats hardly the car's fault. One thing this is driving me nuts though is the cars tendency to bulk when trying to shift quickly from 2nd to 3rd. It just seems to take two stabs to engage sometimes which is annoying as when you are shifting quickly you are usually keen to accelerate quickly and theres nothing like the car refusing to take the next cog for killing forward momentum. The dealer says that the boxes are quite slow by nature and that they have to be stroked around rather than slotted home quickly (which is a little odd for an out and out sports car). Anyone else had this problem?

Steve

How fast do you have to get caught going to get a 5 point ticket ?

27 looks and no replies. Guess the answer is NO. As for me, I use them on gray days to make it easier for people on their cells phones to see me. Beyond that, not much point to wasting the Xenon bulbs on folks who are so busy multitasking they aren't paying attention to anyone else. Rather than use daytime running lights I prefer to leave as much space between myself and other traffic as possible. Porsches were made for that. B)

I just bought a 2008 Carrera 4S Cabrio that was involved in a accident, unfortunately both front airbags were deployed and the roll over bars are extended, my questions are:

What do I need to change in the SRS system to make it operational again besides the two airbags?

How do I retract the roll over bars?

Thanks in advance,

Sergio

You bought a Porsche that had been rolled ? Hope you got a great price on it.

Go to Mods4cars.com and take a look at the RemoteKey module they sell for Porsche coupes. Will let you set the horn to beep when locking and unlocking the car along with some other usefull features. Had one the SmartTop module for my Boxster and have one now for my C4S. Great gadge. Easy to install and operate.

JFP,

The member (Michelin) didn't state what year his car was.. If it is an 06 or newer why would he have to upgrade the IMS? Didn't Porsche already do that (upgrade the IMS) in the 06 through 09 models?

His profile does not list the year of his 911. Unfortunately, if he does have an 06 or later car, he still faces the risk of engine failure due to the IMS (yes, even though the engine would have Porsche's "final solution" for the IMS problem, this last version still do fail), but unfortunately he cannot easily upgrade it because it would be the large diameter IMS which cannot be replaced without total disassembly of the engine. LN Engineering does have an upgrade for this version of the M96/97 IMS, but for obvious reasons there are not that many being upgraded…………..

LN Engineering along with Flat 6 Innovations have developed a process and tool which allows you to replace the larger IMS without having to dismantel the engine. LN Engineering explains the process on their web site and go into great detail on the causes of IMS bearing failure and how to recognize it. Interesting read.

The clause the dealer is willing to include doesn't protect you at all should something be found amiss after they get your money and while $ 3000 for repairs wouldn't go very far on a modern Porsche it's still unexplained and worthy of further exploration before finalizing a deal. IMHO.

I got the bumper off and have added the middle radiator to my 06 C4S, it was one of the easiest things I have ever done, plug and play.

I started to make the grills out of stainless steel mesh that I bought from Pegasus Racing (http://www.pegasusau...sp?Product=3641) size 24x36; I will use stainless steel any chance I get. I was curious about coating the stainless. I thought about powder coating or painting but because the stainless is a woven mesh it will chip or crack if I flex it. Then it dawned on me, has anyone tried the Plastic Dip as a coating, it is a vinyl coating that is used to replace the handles on tools.

When I am done I will post pictures of the molds I made and how I formed the stainless mesh.

Any thoughts?

It's an interesting idea but I think it's going to be too thick to give you the look you want. How are you going to apply it ?

Thanks for your reply guys. I don't really do any hard braking in this vehicle s it's driven in town at modest speeds, but am glad to hear there actually is such a thing as hot spots on the rotors and that it's not a safety issue. I will ask the tech if he measured the rotor thickness to check for excessive wear. Still find it odd I have never noticed these hot spots on the rotors of other cars I have owned over the years. Am wondering if it's function of the design and/or quality of the discs themselves or a brake cooling issue.

The Infiniti discs run about half that for the fronts so will replace with first pad replacement. Sounds as if the spots my well return though. As for my Porsche brakes, they're fine with about the same mileage on them and I suspect they'll go a good bit longer before needing any sorting out.

Just took the ' 08 Infiniti to the dealer for a few issues one of which was what appeared to me to be a near perfectly straight lateral crack running from just beyond the hub to the outside edge of one of the front rotors. Rotors are not cross drilled or slotted and have 14K miles on them. Dealer tells me it is a hot spot on the rotor and there are a few others and it's no big deal. Have never seen this type of mark on a rotor before and have never heard the term "hot spots" with regards to rotors. Can someone offer their learned opinion as to the issue of "hot spots" on a rotor along with potential causes and any safety issues that could develop as result ?

hi, anybody have a few underside pictures of 997.1 with protection panels mounted?

My garage ramp is quite steep, and I am trying to understand/have a clear picture of how the car is done "from below" :-)

Thanks in advance for your help.

Ciao

Ale

The underside of the car is nearly smooth as the diagram PAULSPEED sent shows. The only protruding parts under the car are the front spoiler under the bumper about 5 inches back from, the two spoilers that extend downward from the bottom of the front wheel wells and similar spoilers located on the fromt of the rear wheel wells. If you are scraping it would have to be one of the items I have listed which are easy to see. I suspect it is the front spoiler that you are scraping on the drive ramp. Good news it is easy and cheap to replace and I believe it was meant ot be a sacrificial part given how easy it is to scrape it when going over or up even a slight incline.

This is obviously a trick question but I just can't resist. What is it about the advise you've received so far that you still feel compelled to ignore ?