dphatch

Its cca 2000eur with airbag. The question is does multifunction works and are the conectors plug and play?

Shouldn't be any problems. Dealers sell that same wheel as an upgrade for the gen 1 car. Check 'em out at the Suncoast Porsche parts site if you want to confirm.

HELP!!!! As I was changin the air filter element I noticed that the plastic hardline from the rubber vacuum hose to the intake manifold came loose. My quaetion is this... Where in the intake manifold does this plastic tube attach to??? I am getting no CEL but will it cause problems??? I have a shop manual but can't find anything on vac hoses... Please someone help me on this! Thanks.

Houston, we have a problem. If the vacuum line was detached from the intake manifold, and not the air filter housing it is not accessible from the engine bay as near as I was able to determine. If runs between two of the intake runners on the passenger side intake manifold of the engine. I could not reach the attached point as the space is too narrow for may hands and my fingers weren't near long enough. I could not see the attachment point either as the power steering reservoir is in the way. Would suggest a visit to the dealer or your favorite repair shop is in order. Might be a simple fix but I can not tell by looking at my engine. As it was from the intake side you can't even plug the vacuum leak so probably would be prudent to get it look after.

Oil temp of 225 is normal for these cars when it's warm out and they are fully warmed up. In cooler weather 200 or so for your oil would be about right. My '07 will run 200 or so unless the ambient temp is over 80 at which point I've seen 225 on many occasions without any issues. If your water temp is 175, that's normal as well. In fact my water temp has never been a degree above or below 175 once it's warmed up since I've owned it.

Has anyone noticed that their gas tank on the 997-1 doesn't always fill to the top?

I just recently got a 2008 997 S. When the gas stops pumping and the hose clicks off, I think it's full...but then, after I start the car and drive off, I notice that the gauge is not at the 4/4 mark but closer to the 3/4 mark.

The next time this happened, I checked the guage as soon as it stopped pumping and again it was closer to the 3/4 mark. So I tried to pump more gas but the pump kept stopping as if it reached it's max.

Could this be specific to that gas station's pumps? Or my gas tank?

Could be a function of a particular pump so the obvious question is.... Have you experienced this at other stations ?

Funny... before I bought my 997 4S from a friend, I had borrowed it driven it a few times whenever I was visting him... I mentioned to him that he should have it checke out as I thought the front-end floated around a bit... He mentioned it to his wife, who has only ever owned/driven porsches, and her response was: "how many porsches have you driven"... the implication was that they did that all did this...

Now that I own it, I have become acclimated to the light front-end... It feels less solid than my front-engine BMW, but must admit that it still seems to perform accurate, even though it feels like it is floating... so perhaps it is just the nature of rear-engine high performance cars...

Perhaps a bit of weight in the boot (not an elegant solution) or it needs more down-force... a nice aftermarket nose that generates more downward force on the front-end might do it...

My C4S feels rock solid at speed. Though I can't comment on speeds above 140 mph as did the OP I can certainly confirm that up to 110 MPH my car is rock solid. The car is bone stock and running PS2's. I do make sure that my cold tire pressures in the front are identical and I mean as identical as I can get them with an accurate gauge. These cars are sensitive to variances in tires pressure and it pays to check them often.

No way with the tires on the wheels. Find a friend with a pickup truck. As for fitting, any high end shop can do it. Your local Porsche dealer can do it and you don't have to worry about them screwing it up. As for OEM, the pictures should show the part numbers on the inside of the wheesls and the wheel size/offset info that's embossed on the wheel at the tire stem. After market wheels will not have this info. Look on your current wheels and you'll see what I'm talking about.

Haven't experienced myself so can't help you there.

PCM is the radio, trip computer, CD player, etc...

That's a good question to which my initial response would be no because Porsche has a history of changing just enough stuff with each new model to make upgrading things difficult, or next to impossible. However, the folks at Suncoast Porsche are very good about giving you a straight story when it comes to these kinds of things and frankly might be able to save you some $$ on the PCM itself. I'd give 'em a ring, tell 'em your problem and they should be able to answer all your questions definitively.

Haven't used one but USP Motorsports is havin' a sale on 'em over on the 6speedonline site. Not sure if that's the worlds lowest price for what is definitely a lot of $$'s for an intake but you be the judge. As for the how it look's, it's got to be the best looking intake box ever made. Wonder how it holds up over time ? Would hate to pay that kind on money for what is eccentially engine bay bling to have it get messed up from being exposed to the heat and such under the lid.

It is probably the way the shift cables are attached to the short shifter. The grinding occurs when the cables are attached at something other than the ideal points on both cables. When Porsche attaches the shift cables they use a very accurate tool that insures that the attachment point for both cables are dead on. If the car is CPO'd than ask the dealer to correctly adjust the shifter cables. If they won't do it or want to charge you lots of $$'s go to the B & M Shifters web site and download the installation instructions. They will explain how the cables attach to the shifter. From there it's a simply a matter of trail and error to get both cables correctly attached. Make a small adjustment, drive the car, make another small adjustment, drive the car. Thiis way You can not only get the grinding out you will also get better engagement from the shifter once you get the cable attachment points correct. When I installed the short shifter in the Boxster I left the center console on the bench until I got the shifter where I wanted it, then I re-installed the console. This makes the process much easier as you can actually make adjustments while you're pulled over on the side of the road without going all the way back to your garage. Make small adjustments so you don't wind up way off the correct setting. Not hard to do but not as easy as having the dealer do it for free.

OK. Found the item I refered to in my earlier email. It's called Sprint Booster and attaches between the e-gas peddle and the cable that's attached to it. Supposed to eliminate the lag much like the Sport Chrono does but without remappng the throttle itself. SprintboosterUSA.com is the link. I have no idea if it works or not and being the worlds biggest sceptic, it sounds like snake oil to me. But if you wanted to try it and let us all know if it worked that would be great. I know I'd be anxious to hear what you think. Check out the link below if you want to read what one guy wrote concerning the Sprint Booster. http://www.peony888.com/VS/SprintBooster.pdf

Disconnect the negative battery terminal for awhile to reset the computer. Some say 10 minutes, others say 3 hours. I suspect 30 minutes is more than ample time to wait before rebooting the cars computer which is what you're doing. Porsche board wisdom is that the computer sets the throttle map according to the way you drive the car. So if you're mainly driving in town stop and go it dumbs down the throttle map resulting in hesitation. It definitely won't hurt the car to disconnect the battery. You'll get a PSM fault code when you start the car after the reconnecting the battery but it will go way in about 30 seconds after you drive off.

I have also heard this problem is a function of the electronic throttle itself. Have seen a write up for an after market gadget that claims to eliminate this hesitation by changing the electronic signal to the engine. Thought I saved the link but can not find it.Will post it if I can find it.

If you're getting the rattle when the window is down raising it slightly will eliminate the rattle. My 997 cab does it as did my Boxster and I believe it's a function of the window down position being too low which causes the window to not rest in the frame properly. Raising a little, just above the window molding a tad, tightens up the window in the frame and eliminates the rattle. Not an official fix but effective.

I just got back from Costco with a new pair of Michelin N1 Pilot Sport 2's on the back of my car. Road hazard, N2 filled, free flat fixing, and free balancing. Total cost: $550 for two rears. Don't underestimate the value of having free balancing!

My thoughts are if you can get a full set of ZR, Porsche N-rated tires for under $600, go for it! Even if they only last 15,000 miles, you're still winning.

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What size are you talking about ? Costco just quoted me $616 each for 305 / 19's, so I'm looking at $ 1232 + whatever for mounting, balance, etc... Unless yours were much smaller or had been kicking around their store for awhile I'm havin' a hard time with your $ 550 total installed cost for 2 tires.

I'm the proud owner of a 2006 Carrera cab/convertible.

- Witch oil would you recommend me to fill on the car on next service? Do not know about the importance, but it's a 6 speed manual transmission.

Sorry for my bad english, I'm a dane :-)

change your own oil.

at last change I did 6qt of mobil1 15w50 plus 2qt of mobil1 5w50.

for winter I will do 4qt 15w50 mix with 4qt of 5w50, same mobile1.

Am curious why the "witch's brew " on the oil ? ( Couldn't resist the pun) Assuming you feel this mix is better than either of the multi weight oils you're using, how are you making that determination ?

Might be for PASM wiring but not sure where that enters the wheel well. In any event, the hole should have a rubber plug over it. Would check the hole itself for rust first. If it shows any signs of rust it isn't a factory issued hole. If it is rusting I would deal with that first before capping it but I would definitely cap it properly.

Try this place or do an internet search. Lot's of options here. Must be a similar supplier closer to you but if not....

http://www.motobins.co.uk/displayfinal.php?q=optimol&go=GO

Thought I'd throw this out seeing as the dealers I've talked to have no idea... It is weird. For about a year now, more often that not, when filling the car, the pump does not shut off until the gas starts spilling all down the side of the car. I usually insert the nozzle and use the handle lock and just fill the car and wait for the pump to stop pumping. The spillage happens at different stations. I know that the shut off function is pump dependent and not related to the car. But, does anyone know if there is anything in the car's fuel neck, etc. that might influence whether or not the stations pump shuts off or not? This is a relatively new problem here. I did do a search and only came up w/ people having problems w/ gas going in not out...

Have experienced this one time and until your post thought it was the gas pump. There is a small vacuum tube in the pump handle that runs down the spout and has an opening near the tip. Pumping gas produces suction on the vacuum tube and when gas gets high enough in the tank to cover the end of the tube it increases the vacuum on the other end of the tube which trips the shut-off. My thoughts after it occurred were that I may not have had the nozzle fully inserted in the tank neck which would interfere with the shut off mechanism in the pump nozzle. As it only happened to me at one station I chalked it up to a defective pump. In your case it's not likely that all those pumps could be defective. Make sure you've got the pump nozzle fully inserted in the tank neck next time and see if that cures the problem.

I just got my 2006 997s which I purchased sight unseen, from a dealer in Michigan. The car has 46,000 miles on it and is still under warranty. It looks flawless and drives very well, but I noticed that it was a bit low on oil so added a quart. When I removed the oil fill cap, I was surprised to see the milky white evidence of moisture and three or four drops of water-based fluid in the oil fill orifice. Is this normal??

Thanks!

I think that one way that you could put your mind at ease would be to clean out the milky white substance and the drops of water, then take a nice long drive and see if you get a different result.

Then, if you make some short trips, check it again and see if the moisture problem reappears. If so, that should put your mind at ease.

If that is the case, it's because the condensation will have had a chance to burn off as the engine stays in the operating temperature range for an extended period of time during the long drive.

Regards, Maurice.

I understand that short trips that don't allow the engine to reach normal op temp cause this problem. What I don't understand is where the moisture is coming from in the first place ? Oil and water don't mix and the oil and coolant systems are separate from each other. Is this caused by the "boxer" engine design of the engine ?

Battery Replacement - Public Service Announcement

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I've seen a number of threads concerning battery replacement and the confusion regarding which Interstate battery to use.

Well, my 5 year old Moll Porsche OEM battery finally refused to hold a charge last week. As a result I searched and researched for the proper Interstate (my chosen manufacturer) battery. I saw a lot of confusing threads regarding MTP-91, MTP-93, MTP-H7, MTP-H8, etc.

I decided after talking to my local Interstate retailer, Interstate Factory Rep and checking the physical and electrical characteristics to go w/ the Interstate MTP-H7. It's sized perfectly (fits the OEM footprint) and it's CCA is better than my Porsche OEM battery.

It has a 24 month (no cost) replacement and after that an 85 month pro-rated warranty. I didn't compare the weights to the Moll battery but my 'grunt' scale (lifting it out) suggested the Moll was heavier.

Product ID: MTP-H7(Automotive Truck)

Short Description: Interstate - 85 Months

Cold Cranking Amps: 640

Voltage: 12

Termination: A

Pro-rata Warranty: 85

Weight: 46.3

Width: 6.89

Length: 12.4

Height: 7.48

This is simply public service announcement. I have no interest in Interstate and the accuracy of the specifications are not guaranteed.

I'm just all charged up (pun intended) that I was able to find an 'exact' replacement in size w/ better performance & warranty.

In the spirit of sharing...I had a Les Schwab XTreme Power Battery installed yesterday in my 06 997c2 - it was recommended by a Porsche Service Manager. It cost $99 plus $10 install.

· 24 Month Free Replacement Warranty

· 84 Month Pro-Rata Warranty

· 590-900 Cold Cranking Amps

http://lesschwab.com/batteries/xtremepower.asp

Have never heard of Les Schwab Tire Centers. Are they local to you ? They don't make their own batteries so could be the model you bought was made by Interstate for them and explains the similarity of the two.

I'll reach out and provide any relevant updates.

Take it back to the repair shop and tell 'em to fix it as they obviously did not fix it the first time. If they guarantee their work and the reason you brought it in for repairs is clearly stated on the work order than they didn't fix. So they get to keep trying on their dime until they get it right. If they refuse, and its a Porsche dealer you take it to next level with Porshce and have them give it a try. If it's not tell everyone you know the name of the shop so they can avoid them.

As for what it might be, if it's not the transmission its the linkage or somewhere in the shifter and cable connections themselves. Could very well be worn bushings or cable connections in the shifter but, one would think the shop you took it to would check that. If your handy, remove the center console and have a look. The shifter mechanism and it's related parts are clearly visible once the console is removed. You're looking for excess play in the mechanism itself or the cables. These units are made or plastic and prone to breaking. Replacing it is fairly straight forward and you can get a good used shifter assembly on ebay or from a reputable salvage yard for next to nothing. Search any Porsche forum for a DYI on a short shifter install and you can find out how to remove and replace the console and shifter assembly if the shifter is bad.

....

While this whole section on the Durametric web page still confuses me, in the case of KRIEGLERR's post it would suggest that at 1171.33 hours of engine operation, 3 different over rev events occurred. In their example ,Durametric wasn't happy with the Range 2 event indicating " This vehicle shows "1/48h" which means the vehicle exceeded the red line one time during 48 hours of operation. This is an example of a possible car a Porsche dealer will not perform warranty work on as this metric indicates abuse."

Can't imagine how they'd feel about range 3,4 & 5 events that the post indicates where evident. Hence my confusion with your and the dealers comments. What am I missing with regards to the data the Durametric is presenting with regard to the over revs ?

.....

dp:

The confusion with the Durametric information you are interpreting from Durametric's web site may be due to the fact that there are two completely separate Overrev Schemes that apply, depending on the year of your car.

The earlier cars have only 2 ranges, whereas the later cars have 6 ranges.

Range 2 overrevs in the earlier cars are the ones that are not acceptable.

On the later cars, it's ranges 5 and 6.

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks, that helps.

If you were on the gas when you over reved then you can not hurt the engine that way - the rev limiter protects the engine.

Whereas if you were in say 4th gear and downshifted into 2nd gear at a high speed then the wheels/force of the car can over rev the engine and the rev limiter can not stop it - these are potentially engine damaging occurrences and usually show up in ranges 4 to 6. Another way to hurt the engine is to spin the car and car is traveling backwards and you fail to put the clutch in - this can actually run the engine backwards -- not good either.

Loren;

Am I reading the data correctly if I interpret it to mean that over revs 1 & 2 occurred at the same time as did 3, 4 & 5 ? Actually it looks as if 3,4 & 5 were all during the same event. I have read the explanation on how to read the data but have forgotten it and am curious about the hours of what look like 2 separate events being the same.

I do not know that you can tell the event time unless they have different hours on the record.

Durametric explains it as follows "Notice the section for "Ignitions (Range 1)." This vehicle shows "13958/917h" which means the vehicle has used the rev-limiter for 13,958 ignitions, the last time being at 917 hours. So this indicates the engine was red-lined often and the last time occurred recently since the engine only has 917 hours. "

While this whole section on the Durametric web page still confuses me, in the case of KRIEGLERR's post it would suggest that at 1171.33 hours of engine operation, 3 different over rev events occurred. In their example ,Durametric wasn't happy with the Range 2 event indicating " This vehicle shows "1/48h" which means the vehicle exceeded the red line one time during 48 hours of operation. This is an example of a possible car a Porsche dealer will not perform warranty work on as this metric indicates abuse."

Can't imagine how they'd feel about range 3,4 & 5 events that the post indicates where evident. Hence my confusion with your and the dealers comments. What am I missing with regards to the data the Durametric is presenting with regard to the over revs ? Have read many posts regarding catastrophic over revs but they usually end catastrophically, if you'll pardon the pun. Everything else appears a little grey when it comes to it won't hurt the engine vs. the engine is a goner. So what would constitute an over rev event that would suggest you don't want the car ?

Check out Sylvania Silverstar lights. The Sylvania site is very informative in this regard and has a specific bulb replacement chart for Porsche cars.

If you were on the gas when you over reved then you can not hurt the engine that way - the rev limiter protects the engine.

Whereas if you were in say 4th gear and downshifted into 2nd gear at a high speed then the wheels/force of the car can over rev the engine and the rev limiter can not stop it - these are potentially engine damaging occurrences and usually show up in ranges 4 to 6. Another way to hurt the engine is to spin the car and car is traveling backwards and you fail to put the clutch in - this can actually run the engine backwards -- not good either.

Loren;

Am I reading the data correctly if I interpret it to mean that over revs 1 & 2 occurred at the same time as did 3, 4 & 5 ? Actually it looks as if 3,4 & 5 were all during the same event. I have read the explanation on how to read the data but have forgotten it and am curious about the hours of what look like 2 separate events being the same.

I have PS2's on my C4S and love them. Contrary to some of the responses you received I don't find them noisy on anything but grooved concrete. As for ware, I've got 10K spirited miles on em, no track time, and the rears are about ready to be replaced. Fronts will go another 10K miles. Price for the 19" rears for my car will run $ 1200 plus mounting. Have heard that Bridgestones are favored by quite a few folks on various boards and are a cost effective replacement. I'll be sticking with the PS2's when I replace only rears. Once they're all shot I'll look into the latest offerings from other manufactures as well.