Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

AWDGuy

Members
  • Posts

    176
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by AWDGuy

  1. 10 hours ago, AWDGuy said:

    Good idea but someone just put a deposit on it...I give up.  Thanks for trying 

    My old man came by and helped me out.  We took apart the oil pump and the releif valve for the 3rd time...packed it with engine assembly grease, gave two quick start & shut off, and on the 3rd shot we got over 5 bar on the mechanical guage!  ?

     

    deposit returned, lol

     

    My guess is something to do with that releif valve.  Just glad it finally has oil pressure.  Thanks for the suggestions JFP

  2. 6 minutes ago, JFP in PA said:

    You need to look at your oil pump, particularly the pressure by pass assembly.  If metal was circulated, it could have either destroyed the pump gears or jammed open the by pass.

    Forgot to list that as something I already checked.

     

    1st thing I did actually before pulling the motor.  Pulled the releif valve out and everything slid out nice.

     

    Look at the piston and cylinder...no scoring whatsoever and that piston slides up and down the cylinder very well.

  3. I am stumped and hoping someone can help me.

     

    In June, I attended a track day and I changed my oil after the track event (like I do each track event) and I found a small piece of metal on my LNE magnetic plug.  I stopped driving the car immediately as I have never had metal on the motor since I rebuilt it in 2016.  Since 2016 the car has had several track days, and ran flawlessly.  Oil pressure was always great, even right up until I pulled the motor out to repair the timing chains.

     

    I removed the scavenger pump on Bank 2 as I could see oil sweating from it.  I took it apart and saw a perfect indentation of a eclip in the gear.  My wife turned the motor manually for me until i could see the master link and sure enough, it was missing an eclip.  Jake got me hooked up with IWIS, and they sent me the new master clip design with one c-clip sliding over both master link posts instead of 2 e-clips going over a master link post each.  That repair was done by doing the following:

     

    1 - Drain oil & remove sump to check for debris (there was nothing in the sump other than a couple strings of the black gasket stuff)

    2 remove engine and trans as 1 piece

    3 - separated trans, mufflers and engine mount bracket from long block

    4 - Lock down/timed camshafts on bank 2, removed valve cover, used special tools to lock down cams that allowed us to rotate the engine until we could get to the master link

    5 - Slide new master link in and insert c-clip

    6 - Recheck timing by locking down camshafts

    7 - re-install valve cover

    8- Repeated on Bank 1 (bank 1 still has all the eclips but I obviously no longer trusted the design and replaced it anyways.)

    9- re-install sump plate

     

    Sump plate was off for about a month while the engine was on the stand.  I really don't think something crawled up the engine stand and made a home in my engine but I guess anything is possible.  

     

    Never touched the pump, the block, or even the heads other than turning the motor manually and repairing the missing e clip.

     

    I re-installed the motor, added fluids and

    did3 or 4 quick starts and shut off then ran it for a good 15 seconds until the low oil pressure light came on.  

     

    Shut it off immediately after I saw that warning.  No oil pressure on my car gauge.  

     

    Figured it was the sensor, so hooked up mechanical gauge.  Same thing, doesn't even budge.  pinned at 0.

     

    So...steps Ive taken to trouble shoot my no oil pressure:

     

    1- Removed sump plate again to see if pick up is blocked - looks clean as a whisttle

    2 -Tried a new oil filter as I read a collapsed oil filter can cause issues with oil pressure (i have the LNE spin on)

    3-last night, I removed all the exhaust off supported the engine and removed the oil pump cover hoping to see a shared hex drive, nope.  Everything works great inside the pump.  with the cover off and the gears still in, you can turn the engine manually and see everything move as it should.  

     

    Yes, there is oil in the engine :)

     

    Why does my motor have 0 oil pressure?!?!!?!?

  4. Need some help.

    Trying to find the part # for the washer that goes behind the cclip on the LNE IMS tensioner paddle.

    Heres a picture form another build thread:

    IMG_4683_zpshdipkroi.jpg

    Also need the part#'s for the bolts to attach the plastic guide...left plastic in this pic:

    IMG_4682_zpsgynqgylr.jpg

    Also note that pelican lists a timing chain part # 996-105-171-55-INT as fitting the 3.6 C4S. It doesn't. I need to get part # 996-105-171-58-M100 at 4 times the price. yay. Another delay...was hoping I could get drop the bearing case in last night and do cyl 1,2 ,3....but I'll have to wait.

  5. And I got the bearings case and crankshaft done last night.  New coated main bearings from LNE, new thrust washers, ARP hardware.  Everything was cleaned and polished by a machine shop here in Ottawa.  They also did the balancing.

    img_8891_zpshh0cqjrc.jpg

    img_8892_zps0edpq3gt.jpg



    img_8894_zpszsbqr3ry.jpg

    img_8893_zpsca2ba1d4.jpg

    2nd most expensive set of bolts Ive ever bought

    img_8895_zpsjzxs7gz7.jpg

    Main bearings pressed in. 

    img_8896_zpsl7fuipj7.jpg

    img_8898_zpsmkoupkic.jpg

    thrust washers installed, these have grooves in them and it is important they face out. One on each side:

    img_8901_zpsyodn1hxg.jpg

    added engine assembly lube to the bearings and washers, and dropping the crankshaft in:

    img_8903_zpsglxchkgn.jpg

    Make sure those washers didn't budge as they just float in the groove

    img_8905_zpssq49ydld.jpg

    img_8907_zpszih8ohie.jpg

    measure the thrust

    img_8908_zpsvrqupuit.jpg

    Smooth as butter:

    img_8910_zpsozpxz5iv.jpg

     

    ARP hardware in and installed as per their recommendations.

    img_8912_zpswsxd2uye.jpg

     

    Got the oil scraper on (no picture) with new gaskets and new bolts.  FYI - The bolts were changed by porsche from the ones they used in 2002.

     

    Wrapped it all up in plastic and put it away, will hopefully pull it out next week to continue with the build.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.