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mat59

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Everything posted by mat59

  1. Hi All, OP here. To recap, having originally thought the leak was from the axle seal, I had this replaced. It then continued to leak from a nearby area, which turned out to be the gear selector seal, which it would appear was due to the 'box being overfilled. However, I now have another leak from the same area! I've been under the car today and it's either the axle seal (again), or the clutch slave. I'm thinking clutch slave as there seemed to be a little fluid above the axle seal towards the top of the gearbox - hard to be sure as the fluid had mixed with some dust (I'm in Dubai..). Moreover, the reservoir in the frunk (green lid) is low. So, now I'm thinking I need a new slave cylinder!?
  2. ....and it’s not the axle seal after all. Turns out it’s the dreaded gear selector seal. Gearbox has to come out. Not great news. Now researching rebuilds as second gear synchro is a bit weak. Makes sense to get it done whilst box is out. The mechanic had the car up on a lift and showed me some play in the gear selector mechanism. There was a drip of oil there, which I questioned if it was from the axle seal or slave cylinder. He stated it couldn’t be the slave as this will leak down the other side of the box. This is not always the case though, as seen in jpflip’s image above. He was adamant it was from the selector seal. Looking back at this my first image does suggest it could be from the selector seal. However, the oil leak is spread all across the gearbox around the axle, as seen in first pic, so im still wondering it’s leaking from above in the location of the slave cylinder. Now confused as I don’t want to go through the expense of a gearbox removal as second gear is only slightly weak and just needs warming up.
  3. Many thanks to everyone. It was the differential or axle seal on the end.
  4. Anyone know what’s going on here? Have a small leak. Image below. Thanks!
  5. Had the refurbished pump fitted by a mechanic with autologic diagnostic equipment, which has coding functionality for porsche. Seems to have worked as I haven't seen the ABS warning since. The refurbished pump was sourced through BBA reman in UK. They sourced it from Bosch I believe, who did the refurb. It has a lifetime warranty. The replacement pump had porsche part number that ended in 58 but my pump ended 59. Still seemed to work but don't know if anything was done to it by Bosch to make it work on my car. just thought I'd follow up as a reference for anyone that has this prob in the future.
  6. It turns out my ABS pump is leaking hydraulic fluid so on speaking to the various places that rebuild these pumps, they have said it cannot be rebuilt. I have sourced both a used unit, with part number ending 63 instead of mine ending 59 (superseded part) and a brand new Bosch (porsche supplier) unit. The suppliers of the brand new unit say that it will need to be coded to the car. Does anyone know the level of coding required or is it straightforward? Now just trying to find someone that will fit it.
  7. Many thanks, JFP. Do you know if these units can be rebuilt?
  8. So, I've found that my ABS pump on my car is porsche part number 99635575559. Not many used units for sale but I have found one used unit with nearly the same number, although this one ends in 8 so one number off. The two other numbers on both of the pumps match - 0265225101 (engraved next to the porsche no.) and 0265950043 (on the sticker). They look identical. A few posts back Loren, who's given me great advice before, has advised that changing out a part for one with a lower number may not work. Do you still advise this given the new info I've given above. Not wishing to second guess an expert here but as the Bosch numbers are the same and they look identical I'm optimistic. Failing this, I will look at sending it off for a rebuild. Anyone know if this can be done? I've contacted a few firms that rebuild ABS pumps but they haven't done a 996 turbo pump before but we're confident they'd be able to. Many thanks!
  9. Thanks. Have a feeling they have told me the newer number as this is what shows up as a replacement rather than what is actually stamped on the part. It's now at a specialist's with better diagnostic equipment
  10. Sorry for the confusing message. My part number is 99635595563 and the used replacement item is 99635595558 so I'd be replacing with a part with a lower number
  11. Right, assuming it is the pump I have found a used replacement which is also from a 2001 built 996 Turbo. Problem is the part number of the replacement is 99635595558 and my garage is using saying I need to replace with 99635595563. I asswould me these are the same part with a slightly updated part number. Do you know if it can be coded to my car? Thanks, Matt
  12. Thanks guys. I replaced the battery a few months back and alternator last year. The batt was at least the spec of the original one and possibly higher. I will get the wiring tested but it does point towards the pump. Do do you know if they can be refurbished?
  13. Hi All, My 2002 ROW 996 Turbo has the ABS and PSM warning. My specialist has advised I have fault codes 4266 and 0266. He has recommended I replace both the precharge pump and ABS pump at huge expense. He couldn't diagnose which of the two pumps, so I'm not very confident in him! Any ideas what's causing the fault? I have no leaks and other than the warning, the car drives fine but I've driven it gently to avoid using ABS or PSM. this is the message he gets from his diagnostic software: Return pump fault Diagnostic Conditions - Return pump voltage and motor relay voltage actual values are evaluated and display implausible values. - Open circuit in circuit to control module terminal 1. Possible causes of fault - return pump motor locked up/runs too easily - Wire/plug connection faulty - PSM hydraulic unit faulty Thanks Matt
  14. OP here. Turns out it was the battery. Fitted a replacement Bosch 80 ah and after a few drives the warnings disappeared. Thanks for everyone's help! Matt
  15. Thanks, but my alternator was replaced less than 3k miles ago. Sorry, should've said!
  16. Hi guys, My 2001 996 Turbo (ROW) has not been used a great deal over the hot summer we have here in Dubai. Went to start it the other day and the ignition turnover sounded a little weak. Went for a 30 min drive and parked up. Ten mins later I went to restart the car and got the two warnings - ABS and PSM. Suspected the battery straight away so checked it with a multimeter. It's reading 12.1 at rest which is very low. So, I need a new battery. Just to be sure I took the battery out of the 996 and thought I'd start the car with the brand new battery I'd just bought for my Subaru BRZ, which is a lower spec battery. Car started fine but the ABS and PSM warnings remain. I didn't drive the car, just started it on the driveway. Will these warnings need to be reset or should they go away after a while with a new 996 turbo spec battery? I realise it could just be a coincidence and I have another issue relating to the warning in addition to my weak battery. Any thoughts welcome!
  17. Forgot to report back in this! My specialists both think the cluster is at fault and recommended a new one. I don't intend to do this because of the cost involved. Instead I will send it off to Steve Eiche who fixed it last time I have an issue with the oil level indicator. Will report back if this works but won't be for a while as I'm too busy driving the car!
  18. Hi all, Hoping for some advice. The threads on my hub knuckle that the calliper bolts go into are damaged. The calliper bolt continues to turn without tightening. Can this be retapped or a helicoil used? Or, will I be needing a new hub knuckle? Thanks
  19. Thanks for that. I don't do short drives but only use the car a few days per week. I'm probably going to take it up to another specialist in the next few days. I am wondering if the battery is on its way out and causing the voltage to be so low when it is charging off the alternator. Still doesn't explain the strong burning smell I had when the batt/generator warning light came on. I'll report back when i get it sorted! Needs a service anyway so I'll have the specialist look at it.
  20. That is right at the very bottom of the acceptable range, so yes, it is low. And I would still suggest doing a voltage drop test across the primary battery cables for the reasons stated above. Thanks, JFP. Where are these primary battery cables and how would you test them. When the warning message came on it was during very heavy fog so there was lots of moisture in the air. I got a burning smell in the cabin, so I get the idea something shorted or burnt out!?
  21. Right, I just checked the car and it's charging at 13.42-13.5 at idle with the engine running and under load (lights, radio, AC on). I haven't driven the car in 24hrs before I started it. The battery was reading 12.08 before I started the engine. Do both seem low?
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