jhbrennan

Car was delivered with 3.6kw charger.  There was a factory option for a 7.2kw charger.  Is there a part number for the 7.2kw charger?  Thanks.

Even with a valet key, a valet could still open the hood with the inside door sill switch.

 

Yes it makes since , your car has never had the PSE enabled , so the DME is not looking for resistance or to control it.

 

But the PSE ON works accordingly:

- better throttle response

- faster gear shifting

- gear shifting at a higher rpm 

- full pse solenoid control

- the steering wheel is more responsive

- more aggressive engine break (i think)

etc

 

 

In reading your various posts I think you might be confused (or I am) about your PSE.  What you described above for "PSE ON" is not PSE but "SPORT" mode.  You say you don't have PSE mufflers so I'm thinking you don't have PSE at all.  One external indicator would be to look at the tail pipes - do you have dual quads with the inner pipe with a smaller diameter than the outer pipe.

I had some warranty work done on my car (2007 997 TT) last week. I bought an extended CPO warranty from my dealer when I bought the car. I paid $3,200 for 2 more years/100k miles. I wasn't worried abuout the power train when I bought the warranty. It was everything else I was concerned about....

I took the car in last week for a bunch of little things...

The CD was not ejecting properly out of the PCM, The Carbon pieces on my door storage area (lid) were warping, The cup holder strip was not seating flush as it should and finally the interior switch that open the trunk stopped working.

Well they fixed everything... Replaced the entire stereo unit, replaced the whole cup holder assembly and replaced the Carbon Fiber on the doors. The price tag ???? $5,500! I'd say that warranty was money well spent indeed!

My Service manager said "bring it back soon! Find some more things wrong with it! I'll replace the whole dam car if you want me to!"

They don't care how they get paid as long as they do.. Funny business the car business...

If you can get a CPO. Especially if you have a good relationship with your dealer..

Disconnect the Positive and negative terminals? or just the negative?

These 200 cell cats will pass. If they don't they guy I bought them from will buy them back from me.:rolleyes: 100 cell cats will not pass CA smog.

Fabspeed, Tubi and Techart 200 cell cat exhausts will pass. If they wouldn't pass smog they would have to put a warning of "Track use only". Also if they wouldn't pass they would not ship to California. If for some reason I have a problem I'll just put the stock exhaust back on...

Thanks for the info Loren

Shouldn't the exhaust also have some sticker or indication that it is "CARB approved"?

If I understand the 2 answers Loren thinks I should add 10mm spacers to move my wheel towards the ouside of the car. Dharn 55 you think I am going to be already too far out and they will rub.

Planning on using the 285/18s that give the proper rolling circumference. Sorry if I'm not well versed but 10mm is a little more than 3/8" is it that tight?

Thanks again

Steve

You can go here and plug in your OEM widths and offsets and then your "new" wheels to see the impact. Spacers will move the wheel out - also if you go to a bigger tire remember that half the increase will move the tire out even further.

http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

For those who said it's a battery issue, you get a prize. I swapped out the battery and the engine turns over with much greater vigor. I think it's been fading for quite some time. My battery is the original '02 Porsche battery that came with the car. Lasted quite a while. Sweet.

The clutch switch also needed to be swapped out for my morning zero engine crank action issue.

Any way to donate money to Renntech without using PayPal?

Thanks, all!!! :)

7 years on your battery - wow, now that is living on borrowed time. Most batteries last 4-5 years.

Yes, you can donate using a credit card. Just click on the "Continue" link that says "Don't have a PayPal account?".

My first Porsche battery experience was in 1975 - just bought a 71 911T from my brother. He left the country and then the car wouldn't start. Went to the dealer and found out that there were two 6 volt batteries to be replaced - one in each front fender well. Maybe $160 ($80 each??) but in 1975 that was a lot of money to me.

that's a ton of dough for batteries esp given that a brand new 996 battery 2009 costs $120.

I replaced the battery in my MY99 in 2004 - so I was lucky and got 5 years. At that time I paid $69 for an Autozone battery.

It is now just about 5 years later and the Autozone battery is still fine - still I expect to replace it by the end of the year. And the price is now $89.

Interesting that the install is characterized as "labor intensive" - obviously Autozone isn't familiar with P-cars :)

For those who said it's a battery issue, you get a prize. I swapped out the battery and the engine turns over with much greater vigor. I think it's been fading for quite some time. My battery is the original '02 Porsche battery that came with the car. Lasted quite a while. Sweet.

The clutch switch also needed to be swapped out for my morning zero engine crank action issue.

Any way to donate money to Renntech without using PayPal?

Thanks, all!!! :)

7 years on your battery - wow, now that is living on borrowed time. Most batteries last 4-5 years.

Yes, you can donate using a credit card. Just click on the "Continue" link that says "Don't have a PayPal account?".

My first Porsche battery experience was in 1975 - just bought a 71 911T from my brother. He left the country and then the car wouldn't start. Went to the dealer and found out that there were two 6 volt batteries to be replaced - one in each front fender well. Maybe $160 ($80 each??) but in 1975 that was a lot of money to me.

I've got two issues popping up with a new one this evening:

1) Car more frequently now than before doesn't start on the morning first-start crank. All the electrics light up and the battery looks to be holding voltage at about 12.3 (per my search), but try to fire and it does nothing. I need to do this several times sometimes and it's an annoyance. Clutch switch? Who knows. When driving, seems to hold just under the 14 mark so it doesn't sound like it's the battery?

2) Just this evening after I've been driving around a bit I go to start the car. Very slow to crank. Had to try a couple of times to get the engine to turn over. Starter motor? Ignition switch? Not sure, but it's just been feeling like the car's slower to crank or the crank isn't as full of alacrity as in the past?

Thoughts?

Many thx. I'm gonna get these things handled now. Annoyances.

I've seen a couple of reports recently where battery looked good but really had a dead cell. New battery solved the problems. Anyway for you to really get a good test of battery?

My wife and I just purchased our First Porsche ( YAHOO!!!) It is a 2003 996 4S. However I do have a couple of questions. The previous owner was very helpful and did all of required maitenence up until this point. He also just had the oil changed and a state inspection. Anyway, on to my question, I just noticed today that my electronic oil gauge is on the bottom bar and blinking, upon about 2hrs of browsing on here and reading the manuel I have come to the conclusion that it probably should get a 1/2 qt of oil. My slight concern is that the car just had an oil change not that long ago and the previous owner noted that the car did not use oil. It was a rather long drive ( 200 Miles ) to bring the car home and I thought maybe it did use some oil just because of the long highway drive and that was not typical of his driving. However, is it bad that the oil is that low? Will this hurt anything if I need to move the car? I also only have a small amount of oil on the dipstick on the lower end upon doing a cold check...car sat for 2 hrs. I also am going to follow up with his shop ( Gave me all the major service records ) to verify what weight oil they put in before adding any oil. Thanks so much...look forward to becoming a part of the Porsche Community!

Assuming measurement was on level ground, try adding only small amounts at a time (200 to 400ml) until you get desired level on stick and on electronic gauge - don't dump in 1/2 quart all at once.

Hi. I called Main Line Porsche Saturday and asked if I should be checking engine oil level with the engine started or turned off. They put the phone down and said the mechanics could not tell me but would call me when the head mechanic was back in 4 days???? Unfortunitly I purchased the car second hand and there is no owners manual. I have taken the car to this dealer for 2 years and have had a few problems but this is should be an easy question for any dealer.. Can anyone help? I have read that the air cool vs liquid cooled engine instructions are different but do not know which is which. Thanks in advance!

Join Renntech and download the 996 owner's manual for your reference. It's an 03 but most info applies to 00.

Do many people change the intake to the K&N cold air intake? I was wondering if its worth the $375.

Thanks

I've researched all the forums and found it difficult to come up with a tried and true offset listing of what works and what doesn't on the 996 C4S/Turbo.

Maybe my search skillz need more help, but just thought I'd share what I learned. From my many years of buying aftermarket wheels, I'd say a good 90% of the wheels I see on cars are ill-fitting. Let me define that for me, a good fitting wheel meets the following conditions: 1) goes as wide as possible as the stock body allows; 2) does not rub at stock height or aggressively lowered on adjustable coilovers; and 3) accommodates readily available, common tire sizes.

So far with my C4S, I've run through three sets of wheels. First, the OZ Superleggera 3s. Second, Work Brombachers. Currently running OZ Superleggera 3s.

The fronts are pretty easy to figure out because you have more width options. You can run 8s or 8.5s all day. For all three setups, I'm running a 19x8.5 wheel with an offset at either +45 or +46 combined with both PS2s and Conti SportContact3s. PS2s, you should know, tend to have an pretty wide section width relative to its competitors so understand that you have a greater chance of rubbing than the narrower Continentals or Bridgestones. Check your manufacturer.

Now with the rears, I've always chosen the 12" width. Why? Steamrollers, baby! I also always picked the 315/25/19s because it won't mess up the awd system combined with the 235/35 tires up front. These tire sizes are very common for the 996 widebody crowd running aftermarket wheels.

Now when you read up on threads, people share the width of the wheel, maybe the tire sizes, certainly the diameter, but rarely offsets which is absolutely critical! You need to know all these things to make an informed wheel spec decision.

What's worked of me to date, if you're into running wide rears for that awesome bulldog stance look to further accentuate that wide butt, are 19x12s with the 315 tires, but make sure that the offset in the rear is no lower than +45 (e.g. +44). The lower the number, the further the rim will push to the outside.

I can attest on my own setup lowered aggressively on PSS9s that a +45 offset on 19x12 wheels work just fine combined with the extra balloony Michelin PS2 tires. My Work Brombachers had these specs and they worked beautifuly - pushed right to the edge, lowered, but 0 rubbage under full compression. It's a beautiful thing in motion, in person. My current OZ 3s feature a +46 so it's an even more conservative fitment (relatively speaking). Both have a 3.5" lip which look huge. My first OZ 3s were silver with a 3" lip. A 3.5" lip was not available at the time.

I'm assuming you're running stock brakes.

I'd like to thank Alan Baylis at Wheel Enhancement for the perfect Work wheels and Peter at Wheelexperts for his continued help with any and all questions I've thrown at him even if I've never bought a thing from him. Most of all a huge thanks to Damon @ Tirerack for his tireless customer service. Tirerack did a great job of measuring out the 996 widebody fenders to ensure maximum deep dish visual delight without sacrificing virgin fenders.

These guys know their wheels/tires!

The current setup looks great. When I analyze wheel changes I start with the OEM widths and offsets and then use the offset calculator at www.1010tires.com to see what impact changing offsets, wheel width and tire width has compared to OEM. Then the fun begins.

I guess I'll get a maintainer for next winter.

It's always good to have the charger around anyway. I was getting tired every spring of pushing my lawn tractor out of the shed and jumping it with my Audi!

Pushing the lawn tractor would be easier for me than lifting the P battery in and out of the trunk every winter. Battery maintainer is the way to go.

I am leaving the country for 7 months on business, do I need to do anything if my 996's will not be driven for this time? I went out and bought a couple of Porsche battery maintainers is this good enough?

Why a "couple" of battery maintainers? Also, I think I've read that tires should be over inflated and/or maybe even put on some device that keeps them from getting flat spots.

I found this information too:

According to Joel Reiser, the PCA 996 guru, the 40th's suspension is not exactly the same as the M030......

I copied the following text from the PCA tech q&a site. The web address is http://www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.a...3-4DCAB3AE76AA}

Question:

I have read here where the "sport suspension" on the 40th Anniversary car is coded M095 versus the M030. I also know that there is a USA and ROW version of the M030 and have read the review of the shock and spring characteristics of each. What I would like to know is whether the suspension modification of the 40 year car is the effectively the same as the USA, ROW or some other suspension specification. Is the 40 year car ride height the same as USA M030, ROW M030 or something else? The car is advertized as being 10 mm lower than standard. Is that 10 mm lower in front and back? Just back? At the end of the day, would an ROW M030 conversion be an improvement in handling over what I have now?

Many thanks

Answer:

There was no change to the front springs & shocks according to the Porsche parts diagrams for M030. The rear only had a different spring & shock specific to the M095 cars.

I believe the M095 40th Anniversary cars were lowered 10mm from standard at both ends. Normally the ROW car is 10mm lower than US ride height up front, but the same ride height as US in the rear. The M095 would be 10mm lower in the rear as well, making it unique, however as yet this is not documented in the factory workshop manuals. The ROW M030 was 10mm lower than standard in the rear, but 20mm lower than standard up front. M030 US cars had the same ride height as standard US cars.

The only way to know for sure on the ride height is to measure it. I would take it to whoever would be doing your lowering if you chose to go that route, and have them check it for you.

I am guessing the ROW M030 suspension would probably provide 10mm more lowering up front, and a slightly firmer ride all the way around. Still not firm, just a bit less soft.

Joel Reiser - PCA WebSite - 11/17/2004

So would a 'maintainer' work as well as the 9-volt cigarette lighter adapter?

Can someone post the actual name of this '9-volt cigarette lighter..." thingamajig?

Thanks,

Alex

http://www.autosportcatalog.com/index.cfm?fa=p&pid=52

I think if you get one of those 9volt cigarette lighter things from autozone, etc, you don't have to do anything. AAA changed out my battery when my car refused to start not too long ago, and they used this gizmo so no CEL, etc.

No CEL's on the battery disconnect on a 996.

I've read through the thread on batteries. Pardon the stupid question, but I assume that since I have to disconnect the battery to make the swap that I'll need to reset the radio code. Is there anything else to watch out for?

Thanks!

HI,

I have 18 " wheels on my C2, I am looking at 18 wheels from a 997 ( OEM) I noticed the offset is a bit different. The fronts are 52mm and 65mm on the rear for my car. The 997s are 57mm for the front and 58mm for the back. I think this means I would need 7 -8 mm spacers for the back. Is this correct? the fronts will be away from the hub by 5 mm , correct? is this ok?

Thanks

Mike

No - you have it backwards. The 57mm offset will stick out further than the 65mm. Go to the website below and run your own calculations:

http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

You may need spacers in the front.

I looked at the site I think I may have stated it poorly,

my current front is 52mm the 997 is 57mm

my rears are 65mm and the 997 is 58mm

HI,

I have 18 " wheels on my C2, I am looking at 18 wheels from a 997 ( OEM) I noticed the offset is a bit different. The fronts are 52mm and 65mm on the rear for my car. The 997s are 57mm for the front and 58mm for the back. I think this means I would need 7 -8 mm spacers for the back. Is this correct? the fronts will be away from the hub by 5 mm , correct? is this ok?

Thanks

Mike

http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

You may need spacers in the front.

Thanks for the input everyone. I am in no rush. Though had that car NOT had that dmaage I could amost guarantee I would have bought it. That clean, with a well documented history. Oh well. ;)

I'd love to get a 2002+, but here they are still going for too uch in my opinion. Well over 30. I am looking nationwide, but I need to spend more time looking at some local options gathering the data on what I really want.

I am pretty sold on finding one with a factory aero package, but I am not a fan of the wing.

Ultimately price, miles and maintenance history are going to be the balance. I drive a car with 181K miles right now, but I would not even question driving it across country with precious cargo.

I'd love to find a C4, a C4S even, but probably beyond my budget.

Anyway, I appreciate the input. Hopefully sometime in the next few months I will be able to find one and pull the trigger. The US Treasury just made that a little more reasonable for me yesterday. ;)

A little more than you want to spend but it has most of what you're looking for and he appears to be a motivated seller:

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...d.php?t=464901

hi there, was wondering about getting some wheel spacers for my '00 996 C2...was wondering what size bolt pattern to look for and a suggested size spacer. 8mm in front and 12mm rear? looking for a the simple, slip on spacers. worthwhile upgrade?

So here is my car (or least close enough, its in the garage and I dont have any pictures handy). I hate the orange in my lights. What can I do? I've looked around and even called LA Dismantlers and we are talking $500 for a pair of taillights and a $1000 or more for head lights. Is this my only option? Can I go somewhere else, Does some one else make them for cheap. And why does it cost so much for a set of headlights? Well, thanks for your time.

http://forums.rennlist.com/

I just rolled 11,000 miles and it seems my rear tires are ready to be changed. Apparently, I didn't do too bad. Most people say they don't last 8,000 miles.

Regardless, it comes with 305's stock. I'm thinking about going to 315's or even 325's in the rear. Is there an engineering reason not to do this? It seems like the 305's are a little narrow, the sidewall bows a little. Is this technically deliberate?

Will it also add to the oversteer these cars are supposedly known for (although I've never felt it, if anything I've felt oversteer)

Also, is there a different tire I should consider than the factory Michelin and why?

Thoughts?

PS: Thanks for all the consistent input. I will contribute very soon with a DIY V1 install WITHOUT cutting or perminantly altering a single oem part, a DIY for tinting the corners and 3rd brake light, again, with tint that can be pulled, and spacing the rear spoiler, the first 2 of which have already been done on my car.

If you get the front and rear sizes too out of whack you may burn out the AWD differential.