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Cassiebox

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Posts posted by Cassiebox

  1. Hey! cheers.gif

    You all are in luck as I saved a hard copy of the directions in the link where I showed my hardwired footwell lights. I'm surprised the tinypic link still works too... Anyhow, to help others in the future, I'll use the pic from my flickr acct:

    2721713607_42e1331e71_b.jpg

    and attached is a pdf copy of the directions I followed for pulling power from the overhead light to power the footwell ones.

    It worked perfectly when I did this on my '99 986 (US Spec)

    Good luck :)

    Footwell Lighting Hack.pdf

    • Upvote 2
  2. berty987-

    Thanks for chiming in. I was hoping you would since you seem to be a resident expert on Nav (your detailed posts always seem to come up). Having said that, thanks for all your previous contributions as they've helped me get this far.

    Regarding your post directly above, I'm not sure if you are 'talking' to me or hubsew? I think we have 2 different issues. Since I'm the OP and my issue is not resolved yet ;) ....

    My situation is this bluntly - I bought the car recently from an out of state dealer and am trying to get them to provide the correct Nav disc needed based on the s/w ver. and PCM, System and Nav data I posted above. They've tried twice now w/ different discs (last one was date 4.2005) which give me nothing but errors. Since this should be correct from delivery dealer, I don't want to use up goodwill I have from local dealer to correct - especially since I didn't buy vehicle from them...

    So, do you know, or can you tell from the data I posted above, what disc/part # I need to have selling dealer send me to make my Nav function correctly?

    Thanks in advance! :)

  3. Sound like they're just sending you DVD's from their 'scrap pile'.

    The Cayenne, Boxster and 911 all use the same type but not the same versions due to PCM configurations and levels.

    Any Porsche parts guy should be able to look up your VIN and/or PCM level and tell you exactly which NAV DVD's will play.

    Thanks, just trying to help the process along since this was the second attempt ;)

  4. I think my first question would be where did you get the NAV DVD that you currently have. If the dealer provided it or if you bought the car from a dealer in that condition they have to make it right. If on the other hand you simply bought that NAV DVD w/o checking it's compatibility w/ your PCM level then you'll need to bite the bullet.

    I think the latest NAV DVD for the 997.1 is the Navigation Update Kit - P/N 997-044-901-51. I believe it's at a 2008 level regarding POI's and maps.

    My suggestion is to have a 'knowledgeable' Porsche service mgr tell you what version of NAV DVD you should use.

    If you have a buddy or fellow PCA club member that has a simliar MY 997.1 w/ PCM/NAV you just might try their DVD to see if it plugs 'n plays. That would give you a clue.

    Thanks for your help. Actually, the issue is this. I recently bought the car CPO'd from an out of state dealer. They should have provided the correct DVD from the get go but of course I wasn't able to check it until delivery. This is the second disc they've sent me which hasn't worked. I imagine they're just hoping to keep trying to send me older discs to make it work when in reality, especially since it's SW ver 4.0, they need to bite the bullet and send me a fresher one. I'm hoping someone here knows exactly what I need based on the info I provided so I can get this finally resolved.

    Appreciate the help :)

  5. Hi all!

    I need some help determining which Nav disc I need for an '06 997 C2S please.

    The disc I have from the dealer is no go as I keep getting "Please insert Navigation DVD"

    voice alerts and "Incompatible Navigation Software/Disc" screen alerts when trying to do anything.

    Here are the details from my MAIN + TRIP readouts:

    SW Versions 4.0

    PCM

    Target/Actual: 05395BD1/4505

    Entered/Found: both yes

    Sys

    Target/Actual: 05462AD1/4605

    Entered/Found: both yes

    Nav

    Target: 0

    Actual: 00179412/5004

    Entered/Found: both yes

    From what I've found, the disc seems to be from early version 2.0 or 2.1 but my software has been updated to [almost] the latest w/ 4.0 and version C if what I've found doing a search holds.

    So I presume then I need a much more updated disc since the SW is current - just not sure which one so I can bug my dealer.

    Thanks in advance! :)

  6. I used the G2 and it worked well for me but you definitely need to heed their warnings/directions.

    Some of the warnings when using it include:

    - allow it to set up 5 min after mixing and before using, stir again

    - don't use degreasers when prepping - just brake cleaner (maybe some residue from your soap or dremel brush?)

    - G2 product has a shelf life of 18 months (did you check the 'born on date' on the box? - could have been very old)

    - temp range - use b/w 56-70°F (13-21°C). Higher temperatures will cause paint to harden faster than normal (thus nullifying the self-leveling feature. You mention AZ and 100°F garage temps overnight...)

    More details here

    That being said, I agree w/ you, the G2 included brush is crap. I was forewarned of this by 1schoir and boxstaboy and purchased some better quality and smaller (for the nooks and crannies) brushes from a craft (Michael's / JoAnn's) store before embarking. Two or more thin coats are needed to get the achieved results - not one thick one. It is tough to keep the paint from running on the very first caliper.

    Anyhow, your results from the VHT look very good and that's all that really matters. Congrats! :cheers:

  7. Roger-

    The door speakers are "subwoofers" (using the term lightly ;) ) and they get their signal as a combination of the front and rear channels. In order to test/see if they are working, set the fader on the head unit to the middle (even though you don't have rear speakers, the doors still need the preamp signal from them to work along w/ the one from the dash speakers) and the bass to +7. Then find music that is bass heavy (jazz, rap, etc.). Turn the volume way up and put your hand in front of the grille. You really won't be able to hear anything from them but you should feel it and the air flow. It's a very common complaint/concern/issue w/ the stock sound system in 986s.

    :)

  8. very common but more noticeable on light colored tops. Not an issue but rather a function of folding the fabric. 996s and 997s have the same issues (just in different places. My (986's ;) ) wrinkles seem to be less noticeable after I treat it w/ RaggTopp. To minimize them, it's best to not fold the top when it is wet or damp. Additionally, whenever I wash my top, I usually release the windshield header fastener and then let it dry thoroughly. Once dry, I re-fasten the closer and it seems to "pull" the fabric tighter.

    Good lucK :)

  9. if there's absolutely no start as in no noise/movement at all from the starter then head more towards the clutch interlock switch (assuming manual of course ;) ) or possibly even the ignition switch. Starters these days (even w/ a '99) don't really develop the "flat spots" like starters of yesteryear - not saying they can't 'burn up' but usually the symptoms are much different.

    Definitely check the clutch interlock switch (see post # 6 in this thread - might try some compressed air and/or silicone spray on it to clean it up too). In a bind (also to see if it's the root of your problem) you can disconnect the plug and run a jumper b/w the wires - JUST MAKE SURE YOU ARE OUT OF GEAR (manual of course) W? PARKING BRAKe ON BEFORE TURNING THE IGNITION SWITCH

    Good luck :)

  10. if you are referring to the panel behind the seats on the front side of the engine, then you need to:

    - put the top in service position

    - remove the speaker/cubby box or storage bag (if present)

    - remove the carpet over the engine cover

    - remove the 4 plastic nuts just under the roll bar holding the carpet up on the back wall

    - pull the carpet off from the firewall

    IMG_0157.png

    which will reveal the access panel (silver aluminum here) shown here.

    IMG_0159.png

    It's held on w/ seven 10mm bolts and two 10mm nuts if I recall correctly. When/if removing, wear gloves or be extra careful as the edges of the panel are extremely sharp.

    :)

  11. Not sure about Australian delivered cars (s/b same) but in the US, the amp in the M490 hi-fi kit did have a crossover for the door speakers (at least pre '03MY when MOST fiberoptic system was introduced). I do not know the crossover point however. So, in order to hook it up correctly you'll want to drive the dash tweeters and mids w/ what were the original dash and rear speaker hook ups on the amp (pretty sure they are full range) and drive the door woofers w/ the original hook ups for the doors in the amp.

    No issue w/ that set-up but you should still consider rear speakers. They aren't powerful or overwhelming but they really do help create 'fill' (like in a home theatre system) and will pull the soundstage back a bit to where your ears are located in the car as opposed to just underneath the windshield.

    Either way Good luck :)

  12. did you check the fuses for the low beams: A9 & 10 ? Sometimes fuses still look good but aren't. Try swapping in the same rated fuse from a known working accessory.

    If you have a 986, they all use H7 bulbs. Try actually switching a bulb from either of the known working high or fog lamp w/ the low beam. In the headlight pod, the low beam is the one up highest.

  13. Ok thanks guys! That narrows it down for me. I'll try the "lug" fix first (if i can find the parts) home depot's website doesn't seem to carry that part on it's online website, but ya never know. Otherwise, I'll just order a new motor. Appreciate the input!

    Are you hearing the motor click when you hit the release on your fob? If so, then it's just hte cable that needs replaced not the whole motor. Don't throw the baby out w/ the bathwater so to speak plus I'm sure the motor is quite $$$.

  14. I have heard them both. Harvey's kit is good but not much different from OEM (in the interest of full disclosure I have Harvey's kit as he was less expensive way back when the OEM kits were $300+). The rear speakers really only add fill sound not clarity (much like rear channels in home stereo set-up while listening to regular TV). It's nice to have but you're not going to be impressed w/ the clarity from them. The plus w/ Harvey's kit is it's upgradable if you want to put different drivers in (it's a std 3.5" opening vs OEM which IIRC is not a std opening and would necessitate some mods to drop in new drivers). Regardless, if you're driving either w/ the OEM 40W amp (or even the 18W from the h/u) I'd go w/ the one that is less expensive.

  15. Interesting... I don't recall the CDR23 system being intro'd until the '03-'04 Boxsters (w/ the MOST system, bu tI could be wrong). I thought the common h/u for '99 was either the CR/CDR-210 or 220. With those, I recall reading somewhere along the way the CD changer was just a rebranded Sony unit... or at least there was a generic Sony unit which would work (only the 6 disc version not the 10 disc though). Try a search in the archives on Sony 6 disc changer or some variation and you should find your answer. Good luck!

    PS- I see you are from the UK so that might change things entirely...

  16. They have a concealed remote display

    20110hc.gif

    which works well. I have one semi-permanently mounted in each of our cars and just move the main black box b/w vehicles. You can hook this onto the cig lighter plug or put it someplace completely different (just use basics phone cord to connect b/w the black box and accessories - you can cut/make your own lengths as need be).

    Some have bravely integrated them into the rear view mirror, instrument cluster tach display, dash, etc. Your gut from taking something apart, installing this and puttin gback together correctly is what limits where you want to put this. It's a great idea to use the hidden display not only to keep from picking up freeloaders on the highway, but also b/c I have had some St Troopers in OH toy w/ me. They'll see a small black box when they are behind you and then all the sudden they'll blast you w/ radar/laser multiple times to see if it's a detector. An important side note... if you're in traffic and get hit by a signal from behind, best to just lift off the gas and coast to slow down w/o hitting the brakes. A friend got nailed one time and when inquiring w/ the LEO why he picked him when there were 3 other cars in the pack traveling the same speed, the LEO said it was b/c you were the only one who hit the brakes when I painted you w/ radar. To the LEO, this meant he was intentionally speeding and trying most to not get caught therefore deserved the ticket more so than the others.

    Anyhow, when it comes to detectors, it's kinda like the old cellphone plan comparisons...

    Person 1 - mines the best plan

    Person 2 - yeah but mine is even better

    Person 3 - but neither are as good as mine

    Bottom line, I don't think you can go wrong w/ either the V1 or the Passport 9500ix for very good out of the box units. Good luck w/ your decision!

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