Cassiebox

Nor have I seen this kit in person.

However, I know both Sunset Porsche and Suncoast Porsche were selling the OEM rear speaker kit's late last fall for $79.86 or some ridiculous price around there. Suncoast's site currently has them priced at $164.95 but you might want to inquire directly w/ each before jumping on the fleabay choice....

www.sunsetimports.net (Sunset in WA)

www.e-partssales.com (Suncoast in FL)

Yikes - that is definitely not good news at all sboxstergirl.

There are some well known issues w/ the M96 engine including blocks which were re-sleeved or have a porosity problem. Best advice I can give you is to not drive it until you figure out the source of your problem. Hopefully it something minor [fingers crossed for ya]. You might want to find a good indy mechanic (who's very familiar w/ the M96 engines) to investigate further.

Best of luck

You could just go to any local hardware store and get a new well-nut and corresponding screw. If it's their nickel, let them fix it. If it's yours, swing by your local Ace/Menards/Lowe's etc.

Thanks! I originally wanted to do the Targa - garage door opener hack but when I saw the cost of the Targa switch I started exploring alternatives [read as I'm cheap :D]. Decided on adding a used homelink and am thrilled w/ it. Plus, if/when I ever sell the Boxster, I can just erase the codes, give the new owner the generic homelink programming instructions and move on.

:)

unfortunately, you'll just have to bite the bullet but don't worry, it's not too painful. The first time it's a little scary w/ all the hidden screws, tabs, etc. Go slowly on your first one and the second will be easy. The trickiest tab IMNSHO is the one the holds the plastic cover above the interior door handle pull. I snapped the tab on one of mine but it still holds firmly in place. If anything, it just makes it a little easier to review now :D. All told, it's really not that difficult of a task.

Check out Andy M's guide in the DIY forum sticky for great details on how to.

Also, be forwarned... if you stick w/ the stock amp, you'll definitely need to go w/ at least 6.5" door speakers (on a wood baffle). I tried 3 different sets of 5.25" in the stock "tuned port" and 2 were worse than OEM, 1 was maybe as good as. I ended up installing 6.75" and they do a nice job. If I were to do it again, I'd jump up to 6x9s.

Good luck :)

I still like the used homelink hack,,,

+1

that's what I did... used homelink in the batwing...

Total cost of $12 for a used unit on ebay :)

I just saw a HomeLink mirror DIY yesterday - either here or 986Forum.com. Said to use hot putty knife or fishing line to remove stock mirror.

I like the OEM switches in blank switch spots, but the mirror is fine if you don't mind changing out the mirror.

another alternative, if you don't have and S or batwing w/ script, is to add a homelink to the batwing as I did:

function light and all...

It's powered off the phone power cord and total cost of...... $12 (used homelink from ebay ;) ) and about 45min w/ a dremel to cut the holes and the fins out of the back of the batwing

:)

correct - assume bad AOS. But then also clean the TB as it most likely is coated w/ or has a small pool of oil in it.

:)

Mark/emptyhead99-

I feel for you man and am sorry to hear of your troubles.

Certainly work w/ the dealer to see if PCA will offer you some assistance (they just might). If they hold firm w/ offering nothing you may want to reach out to Pete Delmer @ peteseurotech.com . He's on Stoops Ferry Rd just over the river and up the hill from Sewickley. Not only does he supports our local PCA but he does mainly hi-end performance upgrades. With any luck, he's got a customer in the wings wanting to do an engine swap but doesn't want to dump a perfectly good motor for no reason. Either way, he should be able to connect you w/ a used motor at a sharper price than the dealer. Another option is to reach out for George Riggins (IIRC?) from the old C&G Motors. He split out on his own a few years ago and I understand his pricing is pretty sharp. PM me if you want his contact info as I know I have it somewhere at home.

Good luck!

Don't recall a gloss switch being available but I could be wrong.

Anyhow, you can just buy the matte switch and spray a few coats of clear gloss enamel on top to get the gloss finish to match.

:)

Correct, it is a maintainer and is made by C-Tek.

You can by the same thing under the C-Tek brand for about $60-65. Apply a $6 Porsche brake caliper logo and you'll be good to go ;)

The carpet in the cockpit is all one piece. Most people will cut it into 2 right down the middle to ease the removal/reinstall.

To remove, at a minimum, you'll have to take both seats out, the rear console and I presume the center console too. Additionally, you need to remove the door sill trim (both sides) and footwell kick panels and most likely the firewall carpeting too and the carpeted wings from the firewall to the door sill. There might be some specific directions here available by doing a search. You can probably piece what you need together by reviewing:

rear speaker kit installs

short shifter kit installs

center console delete installs.

Otherwise, check out 6speedonline or boxsterspecracing.org. I'm sure many members there have removed them and posted good directions. Incidentally, if your carpet is beyond repair, you might check out the classifieds there for some replacement.

Good luck :)

It's good idea to maintain a battery - trickle charges can cook them - during periods of extended storage. I usually don't hook mine up if it's being stored for less than 3 weeks. Also, if it's not a sealed battery, make sure you top off (w/ distilled water) each cell. Good luck :)

Does anyone have the fuse box diagram so I can check which is the horn fuse and replace it.

Fuse B3. Do a search and you'll find many links on how to repair the bushings in the horn plate. A new one IIRC is $50+ and would require all the same steps so why not just repair for under $5.

My '99 didn't come w/ any and most people complain about the OEM ones or remove them (to add a second cubby slot and move the HVAC unit up). Anyhow, there are a # of aftermkt options. My personal favorite, though a little pricey, are www.ultimatecupholders.com

In fact, in the offseason while my Boxster hibernates, I move at least one of them over to my SUV.

there are a couple of different pieces there... one attached to the bumper cover only and one is a flap right in front of wheel - like a mudflap but in front. Both are relatively inexpensive. Here are pics of each w/ a link to Suncoast for them:

on the bumper itself:

in front of wheel

Sorry for the overzealous reply, I had been looking into replacing my entire assembly as part my amber removal program. :huh:

LOL - it's all good. You had some good links there which were related to the tail light so partial credit applies :D Other not so savvy owners would said something along the lines of "definitely sounds like the typical ignition microswitch problem to me. Don't forget you'll need your radio code"

B)

yup - available at common parts store. Like the halogen headlight set up (H7 used for hi/low/fog) the rear brake, fog and reverse bulbs are all the same so you could just swap them around in a pinch.

As I recommend above, might as well replace the bulbs in pairs (or at least buy a 2 pk and save a few nickels). Originally they likely made at the same time, installed in the vehicle at the same time and have run approx the same time. Otherwise, you'll likely get the oppty to repeat process on opposite in a week or two ;)

first - check fuse E6 to see if it's blown. Replace or swap in another just in case. There are some TSBs for this issue as it could be a couple of things - hose from fuel sending unit blocking flapper in filler neck, EVAP canister, or just the blown fuse. Lots of info in the archives. Solution might as simple as an "Italian tune-up" - ask me how I know ;)

Here are a couple of threads to look at as well. If you're a contributing member to renntech.org, you can print a copy of the TSBs as there are 2-3 which apply to this issue.

http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18417

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=5265

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ic=9358&hl=

whoa hold on a minute - it's much easier than that. Those instructions are for removing the entire taillight housing assembly. You don't need to remove any of the 10mm bolts. Once you pull back the carpet (by undoing the plastic nuts holding the carpet in place) you just release the clip/tab in the middle holding entire bulb panel in place. Once the panel is free - pull it back. Then, just remove the burnt out bulb by pushing it down and twisting 1/4 turn ccw. Install by reversing. The bulb, 7506, is the same used for rear fog and reverse IIRC. I suggest replacing both sides at the same time ;)

PS- in a pinch, you could switch out the rear fog light or one of the reverse lights in place of the brake light.

PPS - instructions / pictures are in your owners manual too. If you don't have one, you can download a copy from the "Documents" option at the top of any page on the forum (you might have to be a contributing member to do so)

no, they are different circuits. (lighter is D6, radio D8 IIRC and spoiler D7 IIRC - but double check the diagram in the fuse box cover).

Unfortunately, you cannot remove the keys w/out removing the radio. If you've never pulled it before, it can be intimidating as to how hard you need to pull to get it out (the first time). Especially since the keys can really dig into your skin... As such, drop a screwdriver into the finger holes of each key and pull on the screwdrivers as a T-handle. That should free it up for you.

Once out, there is a blue tab on either side of the radio. Push in on the tab and pull the key back out of the front before reinserting the radio.

If you need pictures of the blue tabs or screwdriver handles, do a quick search on radio keys and I'm sure you'll find them.

good luck :)

either one would work - the bulb isn't drawing much on either. For simplicity sake, I'd just take it from the ash tray light. Otherwise, use a multimeter on the window switch and figure out which one kicks on the w/ the other interior lights.

Don't cut and patch, the easiest would be to use a 3M vampire or splice tap. I'm not the biggest fan of them (for real electrical jobs) but in this case, it'll fit your bill nicely.

No doubt $20 bucks is a nice savings. In fact, it's double what you'll after splittin' the difference with me ;) j/k

Glad to help and post some pics when you're done so we can all ohhh and ahhh over them. :)

suncoast has unpainted ones on closeout.... (along w/ a few rare colors)

Unpainted Black Plugs $7.96 ea

That being said, if you're ordering paint to match (i.e Paintscratch.com) you might just want to pony up the $35 and be done w/ it (you can still have the beer when you finish installing them though :D).

:)

Judging from some pm comments I realized my use of the word "scanned" could be taken to mean electronically scanned.

Can ya email me what ya scanned?

j/k ;) I paid for what I needed B)