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raffi

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Everything posted by raffi

  1. raffi
    Hey Loren, do you have the part #s for 2005 997 carrera S spark plugs? also do you know if it is basically the same procedure as for the 996? thanks alot
  2. raffi
    hmm that sounds more like the first problem i had few years back.... this time its the push rod right behind the clutch pedal which broke, i hope it has something to do with the way they repaired last time which cause the alignment to be off and therefore crack.
  3. raffi
    ok one more bit of info to add, so maybe i can get some more knowledge before I go to the dealer on monday. 2 years ago I had an oil leak, when I took it in they found a leak at the crankshaft seal. on my invoice it says "during replacement of flywheel seal found shifter fork was broken, cause: slave cylinder rod cracked and wore release fork at contact area. replaced the clutch slave cylinder" I'm hoping this has something to do with the problem I currently have so they may give me a break with the repair?
  4. raffi
    Hello guys, got a question and hopefully can get some advice. car has 52Kmiles and is a 2005, so no warranty. I was driving yesterday when I pushed the clutch in heard a "snap", thought something may have fallen under the pedal then when I pushed in again the clutch pedal stayed fully depressed, had to pull over. can pull the pedal back and noticed the push rod had snapped. looking further today I noticed that the reason it snapped is cause the alignment is off, then I noticed the aluminum mounting bracket was cracked at the bottom which must have caused the malalignment. I hope this all makes sense the way I described, has this happened to anyone else, anyone got good ideas on how to get this fixed out of warranty? thanks
  5. raffi
    thanks alot loren, as usual. You are the best! hope you're having a great 4th of july weekend
  6. raffi
    Does anyone have the part #s for a brake change diy on a 2005 carrera S. probably just need the pads, sensors, shims. anything else you could think of would be appreciated. also if there is anything special on this diy. I did the brakes on my 996 using the maintenance diy on here without any problems. thanks
  7. raffi
    thanks for the reply but im still confused. I already have all the 997 gt3 parts, rotor caliper pads lines etc... want to put it on a 997, what is the least expensive way to make it work? can i just buy 997 TT rotors all around? or how bout rotors from the og big reds? much easier than buying the new knuckles (wheel hub)... which is around $2000
  8. raffi
    Anyone have any idea if I can upgrade a 997 (non-S) to 997 gt3 steel brakes? is the hub different? if anyone has tried this and has the necessary part numbers, please let me know. Thanks
  9. raffi
    Afterhours automotive just put on their new mufflers on my car and also dyno'd the car for me. I was wondering if anyone could interpret the results. I am pretty sure there wasnt much gain because i already have other mods, flash headers and cold air intake. but was wondering if it looks like there is any other loss due to these mods? the guys who flashed my ecu said it looks like an error or problem with the dyno if anyone is wondering, the afterhours muffler is just awesome, if you are thinking about a more tame bypass pipes sound, with the benefits of a sport muffler this has to be the best and only option.
  10. raffi
    thanks loren, you are the best.
  11. raffi
    thanks loren, the company which flashed my car is very helpful but they say they need generic vag codes. 2005 997 carrera S
  12. raffi
    Hey guys, I have been getting a CEL after i had my ecu flashed. p2188 p2098 any ideas what these are? thanks edit: nevermind i just figured out how to get the codes from this site, how do i delete this post though?
  13. raffi
    dont know if you figured this out yet, but i remember just lifting on them and they pull off fairly easily. of course with the airbag off. i am not sure if they come off as easily with the airbag on.
  14. raffi
    I believe you use a 10mm or 12mm twelve point star bit. The bolt is put in with blue loctite so it takes some effort to loosen it. Once you have taken the bolt out the wheel comes right off. :drive: Aaron yeah, it is a 12 point T55 bit, and you retorque at 37ft lb. I was able to use a 6 point torx bit. pretty easy once you have the tools...
  15. raffi
    Hey, I was able to pop off the airbag by following some previous posts from here. First I unplugged the battery and came back an hour later. I just inserted a flat head screwdriver in the little hole and the airbag popped off, I then disconnected the airbag plug from the steering wheel. when i popped the airbag off the next 2 pictures show what I am looking at, it looks like some kind of torx hole? does anyone have any idea what the next step is? I dont want to take this out then have a hard time re-aligning the wheel. Thanks guys.
  16. raffi
    wrong offset, will only fit widebody cars
  17. raffi
    hey CP, I just had my car at the dealer for the exhaust recall, and had them deactivate the >75mph warning light associated with the fixed wing. The fan is still on all the time so I am assuming this is normal. Anybody else with an aerokit ever checked this?
  18. raffi
    I had a similar experience. about a year ago i would blow fuses every few months for the heated seats. also the illumination bulbs for my instrument cluster were burning out quite often. Hasnt happened since and I never figured out the cause.
  19. raffi
    ralphe boothe has some boothedesign.com , porsche also sells 5mm and 17mm spacers for the 996 for a choice of 5mm all around or 5 front and 17 rear carnewal.com. also H&R makes some performanceproducts.com. I imagine all the hubcentric ones are ok. I am not sure if people use the same setup as for the boxster but I think 5-7 front and 15-17 rear looks good on a 996 with 18in factory wheels. I guess the boxster uses 9 in wide wheels on the rear instead of 10 right?
  20. raffi
    I was able to pick some up from a bmw dealer as well. I think they are the same price everywhere $4-5 so just find the nearest dealer. The bulbs are osram I believe.
  21. raffi
    you have to remove the black plastic cover over the hood latch, there are 4 plastic screws that hold it in place. Then you can remove the hood latch unit by removing the 2 bolts that hold it in place which you can get to by lifting the trunk carpet. The rest is pretty self explanatory. Detach the hood latch unit from the trunk pull line and when you open it up you will see the sensor, it is a white button. I have changed the latch on my 99 996 and noticed that the sensor was not the culprit in my case, but rather a worn out piece inside the latch.
  22. raffi
    I have read a few posts where people say that there are too many silvers in their car. the door handle, bin lid trim, airbag logo are alu look, the trim on the aluminum e-brake is brushed aluminum. and if you get painted seatback they will usually be exterior paint to match unless specially ordered $$$. The alu-look pieces which are in every car are more sparkly than the arctic silver. If you have alot other of alu-look pieces in your car like steering wheel or bin lids/door pulls, instrument surround etc, I would just match that Alu-look rather than introducing a whole new color (AS) especially on a non-arctic silver car.
  23. raffi
    Thank you very much Karl, I was hoping It would be that simple to solve. Raffi
  24. raffi
    Hey Loren, Thank you for the diy on the brake bleeding. It was very simple to follow. I experienced one problem though and was wondering if I needed to repeat the process. As I was halfway done, I noticed the outer bleeder for the right front side was stripped and I couldnt loosen it since I didnt have any good wrenches handy I just continued with the rest of the bleeders. I am planning to have the stripped bleeder removed and replaced. My question is do I have to go through the entire process again? I didnt notice any air bubbles at any of the sites, just stopped bleeding when the gold fluid changed to the new blue fluid. I guess I should have just waited till toolpants made the new video to make my job simpler. Thank you very much, Raffi
  25. raffi
    I think another important trick is to add a bit of paint thinner to the base coat. This step makes it harder to get the blob effect, as the paint will dry much "flatter". I also was able to get more metal flakes like that (it may have been because my Arctic silver touchup bottle was sitting in my garage for a few months). Also Langka is a good product, since it doesnt really affect the surrounding original paint like a polish would. btw i think mothers bought the langka secret and sells same product at autoparts stores for half the price.
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