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Chuck Jones

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Posts posted by Chuck Jones

  1. That last post...the disclaimer is put in there becasue guys switch out their standard CDR 220 for an upgraded spiffy stereo system, then expect that iWire setup to work. It's made for the STOCK radio...they can't possibly make one to accommodate all the different radio plug ports in the back of the numerous models that are on the market. This only works in teh earlier CDR 220 models..not the later MOST models as has already been stated. In the iWire, it goes into the plug port that your 6 CD holder would normally go into...so you can't have both. Personally, I prefer the iPod...just transfer your CDs to the iPod and it will hold almost a 1000...more songs than I would ever listen to.

  2. There's no difference in the clutch. It's the same one in the 420 HP or X50 models. When you go to bigger HP, you might as well do the clutch...I went with a UMW flash, Europipe exhaust, Wastegate upgraded spring kit in my X50 and the clutch lasted about a month....and that was without hard launches or fast off-the-line starts....the clutch just won't hold that extra HP. You'll feel it start slipping in gears 4, 5, or 6. A little at first, then it gets progressively worse regardless of how you baby it.

  3. OK Loren....this is pretty...but I can't find your contact point. When I tried to find the moderating team and your contact point, I searched for moderator and administrator and only found one moderator. Where's the list of your team moderators and administrator? Obviously a cyber-dinosaur posting this.... :) Regards, Chuck

  4. No...the iWire plug fits exactly into the existing plug port in the back left side of the radio...but it only allows you to access the iPod when you switch to the AUX channel...you do your navigation on the iPod itself...but I mostly use a shuffle or go to the artist I want to hear. I don't consider this to be a big inconvenience considering the fact that the conversion costs you about $50. For me it's a pretty dogone good deal for the money.

  5. My neighbor and I installed the iWire in about 30 minutes...the directions that came with it are simple and easy to follow. The side console panels just unclip and access was easy with the radio removal tools they provide. I opted to drill a small hole in the back of that small receptacle compartment under the radio...for those of you who haven't changed the configuration of your stereo setups...and the iPod plug can be tucked away under there by simple pushing the wire back into the hole in back. I set the stereo to "AUX" and like stated above, you control the navigation thru the iPod from the iPod itself. Great and simple setup for pre-MOST cars.

  6. HUH??? Oil collection tanks hadn't been drained??? That's a first for me. He must have pulled that one out of the posterior part of his anatomy. Most folks who do their oil changes never mess with what little oil there might be in there. I know I don't, and neither does my indy. I think that falls under the heading of extraneous and irrelevant verbiage. Next time you go in there, ask him to explain that statement. The response will probably commence with ....Well errr, ahhhh, ummm...what I meant was ahhh.....you know...

  7. I bought a clutch setup from UMW and had it installed lcally...installation time was 9 hours @ $100 per hr plus some pentosin. 18 hours must include a coupe union breaks, going home for dinner, a siesta in the afternoon, and time out to watch the news. Call around and ask some of the independents for their flat rate manual charges for a clutch replacement. I wouldn't go OE...as long as you're going to go in there, upgrade your clutch. Get the Sachs GT2 upgrade...you wont' have to mess with it again.

  8. I had a windshield replaced not too long ago, and I would recommend you call a high end windshield or auto glass shop and ask them. Mine has the auto dimmer in it along with the rain sensor so there has to be wires going to it and they'd know where they are and what it takes to do what you're doing.

  9. Yes, I have Kevin's clutch....the only different thing I did was rather than pay for a new dual mass flywheel, I had a rebuilt one that had been resurfaced....the rest was the new SACHS GT (2 or 3?? don't remember) upgraded clutch. Kevin strongly suggested I go with the lightweight flywheel, but I opted to stay with the dual mass. I've heard too many grouses about the rattle of the LWFW....and quicker spoolup wasn't something I was particularly hot on....I wasn't looking to shave .05 off my 0-60 times.

    My only complaint is a bit of chatter in reverse which requires more gas to overcome it..something that didn't occur with the OEM clutch.

  10. Alex, James, and Dan are the folks at Sharkwerks.....they've done some work for me in the past and they're known in the Bay Area as reliable, professional, and knowledgeable folks. They are board sponsors on some of the Porsche forums. They primarily deal with EVOMsit as a flash along with other EVOM products, and can accomodate and install just about any sort of upgrade you have the money to pay for.

    Chuck

  11. So I guess you're saying that the folded over O ring was the cause of the poor performance of your clutch, and you didn't actually need to replace it? Aside from the fact that the new system operates on DOT fluid rather than Pentosin, what other benefit do you see.

    I drive an 02TT X50 and other than the fact that I burned thru a clutch when I went with upgraded wastegates, the Europipe 100 cell cat free flow exhaust, and a flash tune, the upgraded GT2 Sachs clutch works just fine. The clutch pressure is constant and the engagement is at the same point consistently. I have had to change out the accumulator, but this seems like a common failure on the TT.

    I haven't heard of too many folks who have swapped out their clutches for the EVO system because they didn't like the stock clutch unless they're into racing. Do you think you would have done the swap if the O ring hadn't been improperly installed?

  12. Usually when you see a .4 level of boost, it means there's a leak in the hose....it goes into limp mode as an indicator of an air leak....check the hose connection. I think you diagnosed your own problem. I had a bad connector in one of the hoses to my intercooler and it would come undone once in a while....immediately followed by a .4 level of boost...

  13. I just went and had my DMV smog check run on my 02 996 TT that's running the 100 cell cats on the Europipe system, and the mechanic remarked how clean the numbers were. California has some of the most stringent smog requirements, so I'm very pleased with the results produced by the EP exhaust system....but of course you have to remember that none of the smog shops have a four wheel dyno, so they're getting the results from the up-your-kazoo tailpipe readings using the probe.....but bottom line is that the numbers were spectacular.

    My compliments to Stef and his design and quality builds.

  14. I cant' answer your questions about the tensioner upgrades or some of the upgrades done to the old versions since I have an 87 and most of my knowledge base is around the 86-89 era.

    As macuda said...the PPI is an end to end inspection looking for obvious oil leaks, broken or frayed hoses, belts (carry an extra one of those too) brakes...PLUS the emergency brake since it's separate from the rears....mine rolled out of the driveway because they missed the ER brakes on the PPI...ended up on the neighbors lawn.

    Your emergency kit should contain the most common points of failure...and do yourself a favor...do some searches on points of failure by entering certain search criteria here and on Rennlist, 6 Speed and Pelican. Some of the guys have put together some pretty concise kits and suggestions for things to carry. Invariably if something goes down, it happens in some small burg with a population of 7000 and no Porsche parts around. At least my two "stranded" events occurred less than 50 miles from home and I had the AAA 100 mile towing policy.

    When you test drive it, make sure the tranny shifts smoothly, has had service and is properly adjusted and filled, and take a look at the repair and/or maintenance records to see what's been done recently....plugs? These cars can foul plugs quickly if the AFR's aren't set right. Ask what AFRs it's running. (measure of Air Fuel ratio...perfect is 14.7) Ask about any idiosyncracies that the PO may have encountered like a slight hesitation in a particular gear or a surge etc.....most up front guys will tell you. Ask him for a list of things he'd recommend you do if you had the time and money in the next year....

    There's also a list of what to look for posted on some of these forums under the caption of PPI or similar captions....just some suggestions that make you stop and think...hmmmm, maybe I should check that, or get one of those....Some of the other guys can jump in here with the link to one of those PPI lists...

    As I said, this may sound like I'm coming across negative, but I'm not....just that you have 2000 miles to go on what should be a great adventure....had I done that, I would have been stranded because my first failure...in spite of the PPI occurred when the CDI box went 500 miles after I got it. A PPI wouldn't have caught that...it's just one of those things that happen...like a broken fan belt, or a burned out fuse or relay. That yellow relay in the back is something I'd check into...more guys have been stranded as a result of that little bugger....happened to me but it wasn't the relay itself, it was the wire connection to the 5 pin blade socket that had come loose UNDER the socket it fit into....car would just stop dead.

    Happy motoring and enjoy the new ownership of a fine automobile.

    Chuck

  15. John: For a trip of that distance, you'd need a really good PPI done first to give it a clean bill of health. I will say that a 2,000 mile trip in an unknown is an adventure. I bought mine in near pristine condition and even then the CDI ignition box went out on it...hoses had gotten hard and brittle over the years (87 930S), brakes needed replacing in front....tire condition should be looked at closely...not only for overall condition insofar as cracks in sidewall goes...but the DOT date of manufacture. Some have "new tires" that were actually manuafctured over 6 years ago.

    Carry an extra set of fuses, check your spare to make sure it will inflate should you need to do it....does it have an air compressor with it? Jack?

    Also, regardless of how unfettered it might be, you should have about $5K set aside to take care of those little nuisance things that some folks just never get around to fixing....wiper blades, footwell blowers.....what's the oil consumption been? Did they do a compression or leak down test? Especially a leak down will tell you what the ,overall health of the valves and cylinders are insofar as their ability to hold compression.

    I've put a good $10K into my 87 Factory Slant cabriolet and am now ready to sell it....it seems strange that we spend years gettng everygthing just so, then we decide to sell it.

    Best of luck to you in your trip....do a little research and make up an emergency kit....like an extra red and black round relay, several spare fuses in different amp ranges, and a rectangular yellow relay for the back fuse box....they leave you stranded more than you'd think. Can't recall the exact nomenclature of that relay...but it left me stranded once...as did the Bosche CDI box that I changed out for an MSD 6AL.

    I keep all sorts of extra goodies around....spare fuel pumps, fuses, hoses, clamps, relays....etc. Were you nearer, I'd make you up an emergency kit with all the goodies in it.....but don't let this spook you into thinking that something will definitely go wrong....because chances are you'll be just fine if the PPI was complete and thorough.

    Have a safe trip.

    Chuck

  16. Loren is right about the hydraulic hose to the power steering....this appears to be a more common failure than we'd like to see...and is something you don't want to mess with. There have been a number of unfortunate car fires as a result of that hydraulic fitting failing (usually accompanied by a high pitched whine) spraying Pentosin around and it it highly flammable....resulting in an engine fire.

    With regard to the vibration in the clutch pedal, I believe jpflip is right. If you find a picture of a clutch setup, you'll see that the pressure plate has a number of "fingers" on it that engage when you depress the clutch. I think that some cars pick up that slight vibration of these little fingers more readily than others. I did eventually run out of clutch and installed the UMW replacement, and the vibration "almost" went away....it's much less noticeable, but because I'm really tuned into it, I can detect just the slightest hint of it still there.....I believe it's the fingers on the pressure plate and nothing to fret about. Sometimes we Porsche folks have a tendency to make much ado about little or nothing.

  17. jpflip: Good post and reference to the video clip on the Intermediate Shaft.. That helps to put it issue in perspective..it's just too bad that Porsche hasn't seen fit to do something about these failures when video clips like this clearly show a common denominator on a weak part that's been prone to repeated failures. I hate to think of how much money has been spent by folks who have had to deal with this issue after the warranty ran out. When they go...they just let loose with what's been described as the sound of "a coffee can full of bolts".

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