ScottArizona

I have a friend with natrual grey leather, and it is very nearly black (especially at night)...nothing light the light grey color that is more common.

Jack, what kind of plugs did you use for your replacement. Sometimes software is written for a specific plug /plug type. I know for my giac flash, according to GIAC the car would not run as well if I ran something like an iridium plug. You might want to check with FVD to see if your plug selection was acceptable. Just a thought.

First of all, if you had a leak that was contributing to any appreciable loss of oil (as measured by the digital guage), I suspect you would have A LOT of oil all over your garage and everywhere else you park. In other words, this leak is probably not the main contributor to you being low on oil. I too am a new turbo owner, and was very alarmed coming from a 996 c2 (which uses virtually no oil!), to see the rate of consumption. After checking around I found that the turbos basically eat oil even when everything is operating as it should. I've noticed that upon spirited driving, I use about 1 quart per 1,000 miles (if Jack Chung is only using 1 quart per 3,000 miles...that is pretty good).

As for where your leak is coming from, it could be a number of places. I just had what looked to be a leak in the area of the rear main seal turn out to be a leak from the oil tank breather area which is located at the top and front of the engine (above the rear main seal). Good luck.

Hi Scott, looking forward to hearing if the o2 sensor was the problem !

I understand they gradually deteriorate over time before they actually fail. Some people have suggested they should be replaced every 30k miles to keep the car running at its best .

If it solves the problem on your car I will be changing mine immediately.

Good Luck

jay

I will let you know. I won't get the car back until probalby early next week, however, as my "slight oil leak" near the rms that I asked them to look at has now neccessitated an engine removal (breather hose above the tranny/engine, blew an o-ring). Scott.

Well, the verdict is in. Pre-cat o2 sensor kaput. I knew it wasn't my imagination. When I get the car back I'll let you guys know whether the hesitation is gone.

I am experiencing the same thing, and candidly, do not know if its normal or not (since I'm pretty new to these cars). I too have changed plugs, the maf (and even cleaned the filter and changed the oil), with no improvement. Today I got a check engine light. Its at my tech as we speak and I'll know more tomorrow. I'll keep you guys posted.

After replacing my mount (very easy diy, by the way), I don't think the jacking caused the failure. I'm pretty sure the failure had already occurred, and that the jacking from the engine changed the interface angle betwee the motor and chassis enough to cause the oil to leak out of the already damaged rubber part. The basis for this impression is both the amount of trauma to the mount when I removed it (it was basically totally shredded), and the fact that the mount seems to leak only when the engine is jacked up (the leak stopped the instant I let the car down, even though I could tell after removing the mount that there was still fluid in there). Scott.

If the squeal is that bad, I'd try re-gluing the dampners with each swap. Also, have you tried a bit of brake grease (they carry it at napa) that is designed to be applied where the metal of the backing plate of the pad contacts metal on the calipers and other metal bits? This helped to rid me of a squeak. I applied the grease each spot where the retaining pad hits the backing plate, where the backing plate contacts the pad retainer (the pieced held down by the retaining pin), and where the backing plate contacts the caliper "stop posts." good luck.

Hey guys,

I was changing the oil today and jacked the car from the engine jacking point. I had seen the debates regarding whether this is hard on the motor mounts, and now I believe it, as my motor mount started spewing fluid after I got the car in the air.

So, needless to say, I'll be replacing the mount soon...just need to know if I can harm my car by driving on it for a few days, as its going to be hard to get this done over the holiday. I lost about a 1/4 cup of fluid out of the passenger side mount. Any advice would be great. Thanks guys. Scott.

could be a maf sensor too. your aren't running an aftermarket intake or filter by any chance, are you?

Some of mine were a bit stubborn when I tried to remove and transfer them to some longer bolts, but I managed to do so by twisting a flat-blade screwedriver in the space between the washer and the bolt head (one or two also required gripping the washer with a pair of pliers and tapping the bottom of the bolt). good luck

nice job, and nice car. Is it zenith blue? That's my color, and I love it. I second what Loren says about trying to vacum out the leaves. The problem is the debri works its way between the radiator and the ac condensor...only way to get at it is to remove (partially) the outboard radiator.

Hey there,

My window regulator recently went bad, and I replace it with a unit I sourced cheap from a wrecked boxster. The window now drops the appropriate amount when I open and close th door, but there is a glitch. The one-touch operation does not send the window all the way to the top. Rather, when I activate this feature the window will go about 3/4 of the way up, then drop down about an inch or two. I then have to hold the button to make it go all the way up. It did this occassionally even before I replaced the regulator. Is there some sort of adjustment I'm missing? I've tried "resetting" the window stops by clycling through the up and down positions. Thanks, Scott.

yup, my mass air flow sensor went a few months after the install of my k and n intake, and a liberal dousing of contact cleaner could not revive it.

Well there you go then. I thought maybe the simple h-clip might not work, but thought I'd throw it out there as a possibility anyhow just in case. Izzy, I have not tried the brake trick yet. We just had our third little addition to the family last wednesday, and he just got out of the hospital earlier today, so its been a bit of a crazy (and emotional)week to say the least. All is well now, so we are very thankful. I'm going to try the brake adjustment this saturday. I'll let you know how it goes!

That looks like a nice part, and I don't want to disuade anyone from buying one if they feel so inclined. However, I know that most baby car seats come with a similar, but much simpler buckle-type contraption that does exactly the same thing, namely, it locks in the lap belt so that it will not come out. It is necessary for baby seats used in cars that don't have the shoulder belt lock out feature activiated by retracting the belt all the way out. I'm pretty sure you can be these buckles at walmart, babies-r-us, and other stores that sell baby items. I even think I recall seeing an add in excellence where they advertised these baby buckles (or something very similar) for use in weekend track car/ autocross cars.

Actually, I think what has happened is that you have broken the little, white pieice of plastic that acts as a spring inside the roof rack slot. They get brittle over time and break. I've replaced all of mine after two went out. It is easy to do, and the parts are extremely cheap (a couple of bucks for each white plastic piece from sunset). If I recall, you have to take out the entire roof rack strip on the side that is broken...try using a plastic spatula or other soft plastic tool to get it started. good luck.

Hey Izzy! You always come through with great advice, Thanks. If you are ever down in Arizona, you better send me a pm so I can treat you to a dinner! Anyway, thanks for the suggestion, I will probably give it a try this weekend. Believe it or not, the tranny is holding up great. Car has been a blast lately. I added the plenum and although not earth-shattering in terms of the difference, there is definately a little bit more "umph" at the upper end of the rpm range. I just bought a three-spoke wheel I'm excited to install (once I source a nice used airbag that is). Talk to you later. Scott.

Hi all, I've got a problem with my brakes that I hope someone can help me diagnose.

About 4 months ago I changed my front rotors (zimmermans) and pads (advertised as mintex red box on ebay...but who knows?). I reused the old caliper bolts, pad tensioners, retaining pins, and vibration dampners (yes, I'm a cheapo). The brakes worked fine thereafter, but the squealling was unbearable, so I sprung for some fresh vibration dampners, which seemed to help a bit.

Now, the squealing is still present, although somewhat decreased, when I bring the car to a stop. What gets me, however, is that they also squeal lightly WHEN I AM NOT APPLYING THE BRAKES when I turn slowly at low speeds (its probably doing it during high speed turns as well...its just that I can't hear it when I'm going fast). I can also sometimes hear the squeak when I am going slowly in a straight line...but this is not as frequent. It is almost like the pad is dragging. I thought it might get better as time passed and the pads got worn in, but the problem seems to be getting worse. I guess it could also be that my rotors are warped...but I was pretty careful to follow instructions when I bedded them in (no hard braking at first, etc....).

I can handle squealing when I come to a stop, but squealing when I am not even braking is just too much. Any advice would be great. THanks, Scott.

Congrats. I have a son about the same age, and a daughter that is five. At those ages they both fit well in the back seats, and both absolutely love going for drives. Get the porsche car seat and you'll find that family outings in the car is just a blast!

What was the weather like. I'm in Arizona, and I see huge performance decreases in the hot weather (according to my g-tech, when it is really hot out I can lose approximately 5 tenths of a second in my zero to sixty).

I enjoy my tip as well, even though I've got the pre-02 (measly 5 maps) tranny. I don't care for the more conservative maps, and will often drive somewhat aggressive by activating the step down shifting just to keep it in a more aggressive mode. The best part of a tip (besides fact that my wife loves driving my car...a first in three porsches that she has said that about), is that I can absolutely blow nearly anyone away from high speeds due to the ability of the tranny to grab the smallest gear possible (i.e., I've had the car at around 75 in fifth, and when I step on it, it will grab 3rd and rocket forward) and use all the available rpm band. Unless the other driver is a really good driver, or knows his car very, very well, then I'm almost always faster (to a point) than cars with much more horsepower that should kill me from the get go.

sorry, I don't have part numbers, but would be curious to hear whether you are satisfied with the recover and how much it put you back. I've been thinking about changing to a three-spoke tip wheel for some time, and sometimes odd colors pop up on ebay for relatively cheap.

search both this site, and maybe even rennlist. I think I recall seeing some diy instructions on one or the other, which is what I used when I did the retrofit on my 99...great update by the way!.

Good luck. I know not being able to drive the p-car is hard. I'm coming off ACL surgery, and I was going nuts after not being able to drive my baby for 1 1/2 weeks. I'm now 10 days out and although getting in and out is hard driving is pretty comfortable if I put my seat back far enough. hang in there.