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Revolution996
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Everything posted by Revolution996
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Replaced and fixed!!! Thanks for all the help and support you guys gave me. -
Also, TBH I can't believe the car ran at all with the fuel pickup leaking like that. Seems crazy to me how it could still deliver enough fuel to drive reasonable between 2k-4k rpm. Most other people that have had this problem couldn't even get their cars to start.
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I'm 99% sure it is the issue so I will report when I install the part. I have a wholesale hookup, so the price won't be as bad as that I believe. It stinks that I've replaced all this other stuff too that wasn't causing the issue. Sure they were probably due sometime soon, but I think it was about $500 for the spark plugs, fuel pump, coil packs, and fuel filter together.
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Yes they tried to melt the plastic together too actually. Pretty janky job. Looks like I need a new one. Anyone know the part number for the drivers side Venturi tube? Is it stamped on the part somewhere?
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Make sure that all your rear control links have good bushings etc too. Also check to make sure that the wheels bearings are good.
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Just read another thread on rennlist and I think I might have the answer to my problem. Haven't checked my car yet, but I will be doing so today or tomorrow to update. I believe one of the end caps has come off of the Venturi tubes and/or there is a crack/hole in the pressure line going to the Venturi tubes, so the pump could be working perfectly, but just pumping gas back into the tank without going up to the sender unit with correct pressure UPDATE: This is what I found.
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Not sure how to measure flow rate, but the fuel pressure is still low and only put out 24 PSIG at idle and with ignition on. There is no change in fuel pressure whether at idle or with the engine off. Not sure how I still have low pressure when I have a brand new pump, new fuel filter, and new fuel pressure regulator. No visible kinks in the fuel lines under the car either. EDIT: I tested the pressure at the pump by taking off the fuel line from the top of the sender unit and putting on an adapter to fit the little nozzle. I got 23 PSIG with the pump on, and you would think that since it doesn't have any way to return, the pressure would skyrocket, but it just stayed constant at 23. Any insight? The pump is brand new.
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Update: changed the plugs and coil packs and noticed smoother throttle response, but did not fix the issue. Also I installed a new fuel pressure regulator, and it helped the problem a lot, but it was still there, so I cleared the check engine codes, and it started running terribly again. Driven about 50 miles now since the code clear and it is still running worse than when I put the new regulator in. Any help would be appreciated. I can get numbers off an auto logic If that would help you guys to help me diagnose also. Thank you.
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another water pump story
Revolution996 replied to jaekormtb's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Make sure that all of the broken impeller blades are accounted for, because they can get lodged in the coolant passageways and create cracked heads if you're not careful -
Alignment issue?
Revolution996 replied to Revolution996's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Wait a minute!You were doing a driving tour with corded overinflated tires? You then kept doing spirited driving after getting pulled out of a ditch and having noticeable steering shake? Do you have a death wish? I would definitely say you have an alignment issue, but it's not just with the wheel alignment. not quite. I had old tires that matched the fronts, but they corded. so THEN I put on some Pirelli's, which had lower traction than my old, corded, Dunlop Direzza's. And the day before the tour i got my front tires switched to the opposite side and the tire shop set the fronts at 32 lbs and the rears at 34 lbs. And after the accident, I still drove and kept up with everybody, but I wasn't at all going 100%, I was driving about 60%. Anyways, I have an appointment to get the alignment checked today, and will update on the status tonight. -
Glad i could help! Best of luck to you!
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I regret to inform you all that during my last tour with the PCA, I went off the road at 80 mph, and spun out into a ditch. Due to having over inflated rear tires which actually did not match the front, due to my old rear tires cording, and I needed a quick replacement until my fronts wore out. Anyways, as soon as I got out of the car, I saw that smoke was coming out from under the engine. Come to find out, my headers were beginning to start a small fire under my engine. So a nice man came to pull me out with a tractor, and I didn't have time to call a tow truck because there was smoke coming from under the car. Small problem though; my front bumper brace was removed in order to fit an aftermarket front bumper. So I had no place to tow the car from, so I decided to pull it out from the front wheel. Anyways, turns out that the fire didn't cause any damage, nothing was burnt so I guess I was lucky. The problem now is that i have a very noticeable steering shake starting at 50 mph. It still drives straight, and will hold corners well (I kept driving during the rest of the tour after I checked out my engine for fire damage). Do you guys think that I simply need a re-alignment, or do you think it is something more serious such as a bent suspension component?
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I would double check all the fuel lines that were disconnected during installation and make sure that they are on all the way. When they are, you will hear a click. If one is slightly open and either leaking fuel or letting air in, this could be an issue.
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I just replaced my fuel pump, so i had the same issue with slow starting, but I believe it is because when you replace the sender unit you have to disconnect fuel lines, and air can get in them. So it will be slow to start for a few starts because it needs to get all the air out of the lines.
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Update: got lean condition codes again, but this time I also got misfire on Cylinder 3, so next up for replacement is coil packs (which are all cracked) and spark plugs
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Yeah I am going to just run it and change the oil very often and see how it does. Pretty soon I'll have to open up the engine and put in new tensioners and chain rails, and when I do that I'll open up the engine and check the IMS bearing and the rest of the engine. If worst comes to worst, I'll just rebuilt the engine with better parts, and go all out with new pistons, etc
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Update: fuel pump installed. Fuel pressure is about 35 PSIG now at both idle and engine off. The car still has the same issue present, but it is doing a little better. I reset the codes before I started it, and took it for a test drive, and I haven't gotten any codes back yet. Installing a new fuel filter and checking fuel pressure regulator today. Will update on the results.
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UPDATE: They sent the wrong fuel pump. They sent for the pump for the 99 C2 instead of the 99 C4. So while waiting for the new pump, I decided to change my oil. Bad news. In the filter I found little metal flakes. The bigger ones weren't magnetic, but when i took a magnet over the filter I found little pin-head size pieces. So I pulled the sump, and I didn't find any noticable metal pieces, but I did find about 10-20 small pieces from the chain rails. Not sure if this is part of the issue, or something seperate entirely. I would think that this engine wouldn't have an IMS failute because it is a factory rebuilt M96 engine which supposedly has an updated bearing in it. Also, the engine only has 40,000 miles, and it wasn't babied either. The car was daily driven and has been to many DE's and Autocrosses. Next step would probably be to separate the transmission and take a look at the bearing. Any other ideas? I haven't put new oil in yet, but I have that and a magnetic drain plug ready to go.
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Right but when the engine is off, there is no vacuum correct? And the fuel pressure is less than half of what it should be. Either way, we'll find out today whether or not the fuel pump will fix it. I removed the bad one, but I haven't bench tested it and I'm not really sure how one would do so, but I am installing the new one in the next few hours, and I'll let you guys know how it goes. Thanks for all the help thus far, it is much appreciated.
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Installing fuel pump tomorrow, will update then. Ahsai, if the fuel pressure regulator was bad, wouldnt the car run too rich with way too much pressure? I have lean running condition codes and i am getting 18PSIG with pump switched on, engine off, and 27 PSIG at idle.
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Pressure tested the fuel system, and it's only getting 18lbs with ignition on and 28 lbs at idle. Looks like I'll be needing a new fuel pump/filter. Ideal psi at idle is 47, correct?
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Tried that, the engine doesn't like it very much when I take it off. It also audibly sounds like it has a good seal.
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So do you think my best bet would be to take it all off then put it back on again?
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UPDATE: Ran the CEL today, and i got P1126 P1133 P1130 and P1128. Also, when I cleared the codes, my car started running like crap again and it took 20 minutes of driving to make it not stall at idle anymore.
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Okay I'll try that. I'm going on vacation this weekend, and when I get back ill clean the MAF and run the CEL to see what's going on.
