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dporto

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Everything posted by dporto

  1. I did my "IMS Solution" myself (as well as cam chains, pads, clutch etc.) pretty straight forward stuff. When it recently became obvious I'd need a full re-build, I decided to send it to the Pro's at Flat6 (the act of inserting the wrist pin clips and properly gaping the rings made me a little nervous). I decided on the "Track Performer" motor. While my bank account will be considerably lighter, I'll sleep well knowing my engine is fixed for the life of the car...?
  2. I just sent my engine (actually whole car) to Jake/Jud for a "Track Performer" update/upgrade ? I can't wait 'til April to get 'er back !
  3. I agree - That's why I said "Litronic/HID replacement" for our lights ( I have Litronics, so no "conversion kits" for me... I would think given today's manufacturing capabilities, a comparable Litronic replacement could be produced for far less than $2k apiece (or whatever ridiculous price Porsche charges for them) while still including a tidy profit margin.
  4. ^^^ Bummer! You'd think with a base of somewhere around 125 to 150,000 996's out there (not to mention all the boxters) someone (in the automotive lighting business) would manufacture a reasonably priced Litronic/HID replacement for our lights... Seems like a fair sized market to me. I'm sure there's a reasonable explanation why they haven't...?
  5. ^^ I think (or should say assume) the clean/non-greening connector is the good one (no faults). It certainly could be a failed sensor, but got the feeling the OP had already determined that the sensor was/is ok and had tracked down the fault to the connector itself. It looks to me like the green is indeed oxidation, but obviously no way to tell from just a photo...
  6. I don't know what an alignment costs where you're from, but it's anywhere from $300-$450 for me... Obviously, it's not going to break the bank, but it's certainly not something I'd do unless it was actually necessary. When changing/replacing drop links, it's not necessary. Just make sure there's no static loading of the sway bar on level ground and you're all set... "they have no influence on the adjustments." ^^ This ^^
  7. First, clean all the oxidation really well until all the green (copper oxide?) is gone. Try not to use any/much abrasive as it will just remove more plating (which was probably already done at some point hence the oxidation on the copper). Once you get it clean, use plenty of dielectric grease when you put the connection back together (it looks like this was done to the other connector). The dielectric grease will repel moisture and reduce or hopefully eliminate the oxidation you've been experiencing. Good Luck
  8. Reality is, you're playing with fire if you install a new bearing (ball or roller) in an engine that's full of metal from the previous bearing. You have to remember that it's not just the IMS Bearing you have to worry about. The main crankshaft bearings and camshaft bearings (or any surface where you have metal to metal surfaces lubricated by and oil film) will also fall prey to this abrasive that has been introduced to the engine oil and therefore been distributed throughout the engine. Installing a new IMS bearing will give you peace of mind while your engine is being (silently) ruined by said abrasive. This is why FSI/LN Engineering developed the the process to "qualify" an engine for IMS bearing replacement. Proceed at your own risk !
  9. I've done most of the shifter "upgrades"...? These include the stock 997 "short shifter" (better than 996 stock), the B&M short shifter (better than stock 997 "short shifter") and finally The Numeric Racing adjustable throw with cables (by FAR the best of the bunch - albeit, also the most expensive!) While the NUmeric with the stock cables was also far better than the rest, the addition of the cables brings it to another level. Obviously, it's a big spend (close to $1k depending on whether Numeric is running a sale - I got both the shifter and cables on sale and they ran a little under $700) - but the results are so worth it! ** As for suspension - short answer is yes! If you like the stance of your car with the stock components and you're not tracking the car then by all means stock is fine - and you'll be amazed at the way the car handles/rides with new suspension parts. If you'd like to change the stance (lower) you'll have to get sport struts/shocks/springs or go with a coilover setup.
  10. I did my front bearings, and I've got a C4 so...I'll be ready for the rears when/if I have to do them ?
  11. I'm pretty sure the Torque spec is dry. This being said, I put anti-seize on just about everything (unless specified otherwise) and have never had a problem (except getting a fastener off something without anti-seize...). Glad you got it done!
  12. Generally speaking, people rarely own up to it on public forums when they make a $20k mistake... You've been warned ?
  13. I recently turned 150k miles on my '99 C4. I did The IMS Solution at 147k (in addition to cam chains, tensioner pads, clutch, water pump, etc...) I've got about 152k now...
  14. The SIR Tool is crazy expensive (approx. $600 - well worth it if you're a pro or planning to do the job more than a few times). I looked around for something like the one JFP showed you (I actually saw that one but couldn't tell if it would be large enough) but wound up making one out of some scrap steel. It wound up working extremely well and only cost me a few dollars and some time. I did my front bearings, but the job is similar (my hub carriers were off btw...I was re-doing the whole suspension). Good Luck
  15. There's a guy over on Rennlist that makes them with a 3D printer. Do a search there - His name is Chris. If you can't get in touch with him. I've got one of his tools that I'll rent to you
  16. Oops...Sorry - M5 is correct... (skinny stuff). I think the main danger to mucking up the threads is if they are left handed. The bike skewer worked perfectly for me. SG is correct to point out that it's a good idea to try to compress the tensioner a bit as you screw the skewer/tool in to relieve some of the strain on the threads. IIRC you don't need a vice for this - I'm pretty sure I did it by hand (I know didn't put my tensioners in a vice).
  17. They are M8 x1.5 (I think - double check). There's a thread around here or Rennlist that tells how to make the compression tool out of a bicycle skewer. This is what I did and it worked perfectly. The threads on mine were right handed. Some people have found that theirs had left handed threads. You may be able to find the exact specs for the tool in this thread https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/983191-cel-came-back-finally-got-around-to-getting-a-durametric-11.html it's a thread I started last year when I did the chain tensioner pads on my motor. It's long and there's a bunch of unrelated stuff in there, but I cant find the exact info... Good luck
  18. I did my chain tensioners about a year ago, so I don't remember if the new ones looked any different than the originals. I'd think that as long as the overall length is the same and the o-ring is in the same place and the diameter is the same it should be ok (in other words if those things are the same, the rest of "the look" doesn't matter)...good luck
  19. I hadn't done much suspension work to speak of when I did mine (some ball joints many years ago and a lower control arm bushings on a E39 540i). Pelican's 101 projects is a good, if somewhat "lite" reference - one of the nice things is that most of the projects (including suspension, have/make reference to, online videos in case you have questions or get stuck). A better - albeit more expensive reference to is Bentley's 996 Service manual. ** I've also found The Knowledge Grupp's 996 Torque Values book indispensable. Everything is laid out logically by section in a small "shop use" format...As for the parts, and where they go - One of the reasons I really love and appreciate these cars is due to the engineering. Everything seems to be laid out very logically and for the most part symmetrically. It's quite impressive! As such, if you run into a question on one side, you can pretty much find the mirror image on the other...A dece3nt torque wrench is required as well! Good luck
  20. I used a standard engine stand (with U base) that I got from Summit Racing, attached with 4 bolts - honestly I was a little wary of this method myself, but seeing as I was about $4k into the project in parts, I decided I didn't really need another ($600) tool that I'd most likely use one time (I have no further plans to pull my engine). If you do some checking, it seems that many folks have put their M96 motors on stands without the yoke. While it clearly makes it more convenient to work on the engine and probably makes it safer for the crank case in question, it's not really necessary (at least it wasn't for me and several others). If I was a professional that was working on many motors (especially customers motors), I wouldn't hesitate to spend the $...For a one time use, I think the chances of your "engine crashing to the floor" are near 0...Good Luck
  21. It's really no more difficult than the other work you've done. This being said, it is "involved" and time consuming (a big part of the bill when you get a shop to do it). The only bolts that gave me real headaches were the Spring perch/Strut carrier bolts (M12 1.5 x 70 IIRC). At the very least I'd recommend getting the car up over 20" (clearance underneath) so you can work comfortably. Of course good quality 3-6 ton jack stands are a must... Safety First!!!
  22. There's nothing particularly difficult (for the home mechanic) regarding suspension refresh assuming you have a) the right tools, b) the right parts, c) Documentation/Reference materials and d) plenty of time. The main obstacle I found while doing my suspension components was corrosion/adhesion between dissimilar metals (aluminum and steel in this case). It took me about a week of evenings to remove the front strut carrier bolts without doing damage to the carrier itself. Of course, I was sure to use anti-seize when re-assembling everything... Good luck
  23. "Now they say it's a feature of the 996 and even more so on older Porsches. Something about the gas tanks being permeable--I'm not sure I heard him right. Is that normal? Or is the dealership mistaken?" OMG! A "Feature" ? Run away, and take the car to someone who actually knows something about cars as opposed to how to ripoff unsuspecting buyers. Seriously, at best this guy(s) is an idiot, and at worst he's a lying scumbag...
  24. Are you sure you weren't out of gas? It's happened before...996 is known for fuel gauge issues (especially if it's a C4)...
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