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toddwess

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Everything posted by toddwess

  1. I've been working on this for a while, and thought I would give an update. The project is all installed and finished. I've attached some images of screen captures of different screens on the system. The theme is VERY Flash intensive. The main menu has about 4 flash apps running. Of course you can't see them in these static images, but looks pretty cool. All the number columns auto populate and more and more. Let me know what you all think. This was done with Macromedia Fireworks. Below is the main menu Next is the Audio Player Here is the Audio Browser Here is my Phone control And this is the Apps screen. There are others, but these are the main ones. Just thought I'd share. Todd
  2. I've got some scratches myself that I'm thinking of using an airbrush. My scratches are more like scuffs. They have no depth to them - only surface scratches. Anyone tried this? Thanks, Todd
  3. Unbelievable. It was the E6 fuse. Before I posted, I called porsche, and they said it was the fuel vent and was going to cost an arm and a leg to replace. The fuse cost me like 75 cents. Thanks for the help!!
  4. If you got both screws back in, then you put it in the right way. It can fit in backwards, but then the screws won't fit. Todd
  5. Thanks so much for this. I agree, it really seems odd that both sides would loose control at the same time. I hope the MAF doesn't come back on. We'll see. Todd
  6. Thanks for the feedback. That makes sense. Porsche dealer said the MAF needed to be replaced due to the voltage readings were at their minimum and not moving, but did not show me the codes on his screen. That was about a week ago, and I ordered a MAF from Pelican Parts. It arrived today, and I put it in then started the engine. No change what-so-ever. I heard others saying that their RPM's fluctuated wildly for about a minute or two. Mine was running exactly the same. Also, the CEL did not go off. I guess, I'll replace the O2 sensors next . . . by the way, where are they? Is there a DIY for O2 replacement? Thanks, Todd
  7. Since this is a DIY for a Carrera, are the dampener parts the same?? i.e. do we need the round 28/30 mm dampeners for the rear brakes? Pelican parts does have them in stock, but does not show them as required for the Boxster . . . only the Carrera. What dampeners should be used in the rear for a 2000 boxster? Thanks Todd
  8. Very strange . . . the guage is on E. Went to put in gas, but the nozzle keeps shutting off. If I force it open, the gas just comes out and sprays everywhere. What might cause this. I have ruled out a clog in the pipe. Todd
  9. Okay, one more question on this topic. I have a buddy that can get me a 996 guage cluster, and the surround with it so I don't have to cut my factory surround. My quesiton . . . the rumor is that all boxsters came with the OBC, you just have to have it activated, and install the wand if you want full control, so I 'm wondering if any gauge cluster will work with the OBC activated. Now, this is before the OBC screens went to the dot matrix screen, so I was just wondering. The part number is 996 641 103 02 (70c). He needs an answer by COB Thursday, so any feedback would be great! Thanks Todd
  10. Okay, I get a CEL light and the codes are P1126 and P1133. I remove the MAF give it a good cleaning and replace it. Tighten all air intake hoses and reset the CEL. About 300 miles later, I get the CEL again. This time, only P1126. Clear the CEL light. About 400 miles later, I get the CEL again. Again, the P1126. I leave it alone (I don't clear the CEL) and wait about another 100 miles and check again, and now I have the P1126 and P1133 codes. Clear the CEL Light. 300 miles later, CEL again. This makes no sense. If the MAF is bad, the CEL should come RIGHT BACK ON, right? Thoughts and input are quite welcome. Todd
  11. With cable ties. I drilled small holes in the removed grill in locations that could not be seen from the front, and just fed the ties through and cinched them down. Todd I checked the thickness, and they are okay . . . do they look like they need to be replaced? I think they look pretty bad, but don't know if they need to be replaced . . . Thoughts? No, the bumper HAS to be removed to get them out. It is pretty easy to get the bumper off. Do a search, and you'll find several walk-throughs on the bumper removal.
  12. I like the look of the screen/mesh behind the front air scoops and found a GREAT walk-through by Jes. I used a product at Home Depot called Gutter Guard. There were 6 3-foot sections per package for about 6 dollars. Following Jes' instructions, I started by . . . - Jacking up the front end of the car - Removing both front wheels - Removing both inserts from front wheel wells (armor all'ed them before putting them back in) - Removing Bumper - Removing rubber ducting leading to radiators And this is what I saw. I could'nt believe the amount of filth that was accumulated in there. Cig' butts, leaves, bugs, TONS of gravel. Passenger Side. Driver side. Got that all cleaned up, and put the screening/mesh in place and put everything back together. I like it very much! Took about 4 hours, but totally worth it. Todd
  13. Thanks for the quick reply. I'm getting new tires in November for my B-Day, so not terribly concerned about them. Just worried about screwing up the new control arm or something. . . I don't understand why the guy can't do this . . . I should ask for a discount from the price he quoted me. Todd
  14. First of all, Thanks! :) I am not very familiar with the CDR-22 - I can only assume it is similar to the CDR-220. If we run with that assumption, call Becker (not sure where you are, but I called Becker of North America) and request the wiring kit to allow AUX input into your system. I simply added this wire to my CDR-220, and plugged it directly into the AUDIO OUT plug on the PC that is in the car. Then, any audio coming from my PC (such as the audio from a DVD) gets run through the factory amp, and the factory HU and then to the speaker system of the car. Quite enjoyable. The best part about doing this mod, is that the 7" touch screens fit so wonderfully into the upper dash portion of the Boxster. I only had about 1/2 cm of gap all the way around my Lilliput screen which I filled with cauk and painted over. The screen is not very heavy, so the filling compound does not have to be strong enough to carry any real weight. I find cauk works wonderfully. I still need to put some bondo compound over the cauk for that "factory feel" which is to be completed this weekend. More pics soon! By the way - I have the radioSHARK and have tried about 15 different solutions to get reception with no luck. More soon, Todd
  15. I took my 2000 Boxster with 80K miles into a local mechanic to replace the front lower control arm. He called to let me know the car is ready but that he could not do a front alignment because, and I quote, "The car wouldn't fit on my machine." He says he drove it and the alignment is fine. Recommendations? Drive it? Take it to Porsche? Going to start searching now, but wanted to get the question out there since I have to pick up the car in a few hours. Thanks, Todd
  16. Thanks Reese! Yea, Im going to eventually pull the thing back out and do some surface bondo to get it to look a bit better. I've got some completed pictures and will be posting them shortly!
  17. Sorry, typo in in the subject line and don't know how to change it. CEL Codes: My CEL came on my 2000 boxster and I checked it with the ODB II connection. P1126 - Oxygen sensing adaptation, upper load range bank 1 P1133 - Oxygen sensing adaptation, lower load range bank 2 I was certain that buying a ODB II adapter and software would help me, but I have no idea what to do with this information. HELP! Thanks! Todd Wessendorf
  18. Okay, we have an update. The Lilliput 7" screen arrived, and it's such a perfect fit, I decided to mount it "As-Is" I put some double sided sticky pads around the unit, and it fit like a dream. Then I sealed the whole thing with basic tub calk. Then I realized that I probably should have removed the screen and back unit before I calked. Once the calk set, I couldn't get the back panel off. That means I have to spray it with the screen in place. Not my first choice. I think it turned out pretty well. It has a factory look, and I didn't have to remove anything from the casing. Now I need to focus of power . . . the inverter is just not a good idea.
  19. That is SWEET!!!! I'll be taking the LCD out of the case and mounting it in the space then placing the DVD slot-loading drive beneith that. Where oh where did you get that awsome skin for MediaCenter???? Thanks, Todd
  20. I am also dremmeling new speaker mount kit this week, my fabrication tips.. just heavy duty tape surrounding area you need to protect... also use sheet metal to protect area you don't want to to be touch by accident... some times dremel can go high speed and slip out from my hand... oops. sheet metal really helps for protection. Goodluck! and be brave... This is advice that should go to anyone working on any component of their dash. The dremel can get out of control so quickly. Well done. Todd
  21. This was the link where I got the software. http://www.majesticpw.com/roadrunner/Index.html It sounds like you're interested . . . you should research car pc's . . . it is a blast to put in.
  22. The screen is touch-screen and it will be running Windows XP with a front end called RoadRunner.
  23. Well, where to begin. I will be installing an aOpen PC with a 7" Lilliput touch screen into my car. Additional add-ons have not been decided yet. GPS definitely, but we'll cross that bridge when the unit is in and working. First of all, here is the car we are working with - a 2000 Boxster 2.7L. This is what the dash looks like before modification started. I moved the AC Controls and the Radio all the way down leaving this opening. I've also ordered a replacement display from Becker of America to compensate for the new viewing angle of the radio. They sell me the new display (without the polarized display) for $150 and give me a $100 credit when I return my existing display. Not a bad deal. Here is the issue. In order to get the dash frame out, I first have to remove the two rows of buttons on either side (highlighted in blue in the image below) Getting them off is not the problem - that's easy. The issue is when they are removed, and the panel is taken off, it looks like this. (This one is silver, but mine looks pretty much the same) Since the side buttons have to be able to snap back on to this piece after fabrication and incorporation of the TFT bezel, I'm wondering how I am going to get this to work. The TFT doesn't arrive until the 6th, and I'll be dremmeling away at my current dash frame piece (that middle bar for example has to go). but in the mean time, if someone has some fabrication tips for this sort of thing, it would be appreciated. More soon . . . Todd
  24. How did you connect to the C1 plug? I've read several posts, but the only option I've found is to splice into the wires. Did you find a compatible C1 plug? Todd Did you put it in yourself, or have it installed?
  25. Yes, there are some gaps. That is because I have not installed the new trim piece down there yet. I've ordered it from Suncoast imports. Once in place, it will look seamless. Todd How did you connect to the C1 plug? I've read several posts, but the only option I've found is to splice into the wires. Did you find a compatible C1 plug? Todd
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