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neoplanet

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Everything posted by neoplanet

  1. Hey if anyone is interested I can supply a quick replacement for the rubber surrounding the drive shaft bearing. No need to remove the shaft, bearing, or bracket. It works great, no vibration, tough, and lasting without flaws in my case. Have a look and order at Etsy if you like. My understanding is that they don't mind promotions here if someone is looking for a solution, so I hope I am complying with policy. It's an easy fix and will avoid the need to replace the whole driveshaft, which will be required again in another 85,000 miles give or take. Porsche Cayenne Volkswagen Tuareg Audi Q7 Retrofit Bushing - Etsy WWW.ETSY.COM This Car Accessories item by GreenSourceShop has 2 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from Dana Point, CA. Listed on Jun 1, 2022
  2. Loren said both the turbo and the NA V8 4.5L use the same gap. I don't think that is correct. Turbo is 0.8 (single electrode) and NA is 1.6 (multi-electrode). I sure wonder why they are different but that's for another discussion. 🤓🤓I also read somewhere that they are pre-gapped and just put my previous ones in the way they were. Didn't check. They were NGK iridium and the center electrodes melted off. Their literature says the ground electrode will fail before the center one does. Turns out that's not the case! So I'm going to try out the autolite double platinum. Close to OE for turbo. They say they use double platinum in OE anyway. Checked the gap for 0.8 (Turbo) and they were way larger. So I set them. Thanks for all the info on here!
  3. I had intermittent problems with headlights all the time until I replaced those harnesses. Then all problems ceased. I didn’t have much trouble getting them out of there but I did crack one holder a bit. Still seems ok. Just slide them to the side if I remember correctly. No special tools needed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Thanks everyone for your responses. This has been a big help. Although I still have to decide whether to replace or get a new aftermarket with Car Play. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Another question: it sounds like you replaced it and all was fine. Is that the case? I was concerned it might be a wiring problem and replacing it wouldn’t do the trick! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Thanks. I kinda thought so. Do you have a source suggestion for a rebuilt one? That would be a more known good unit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. For some reason the head unit with the navigation completely restarts itself. Sometimes when it comes back on the display looks normal but there is a low hiss and regular pop sound about every three seconds coming through the speakers. It seems I can jiggle it (screws are now out) and make it restart again and come back on and functioning as normal. Has anybody experienced this? It happens whether the fiber optic cables are plugged in or not, although of course I can’t hear the audio effect. It’s simply darkens and brings back the display and backlight. On its own.
  8. I've checked the SAIs. The filters and impellers are fine. Yeah, it is quite easy to check. Just that center screw. And OH! I see. It's not an accidental drive cycle, like a natural thing you would do. It is an intentional drive cycle to cause the thing to do its thing! Makes sense now. Thanks a lot for this info! I also have checked the relays, swapped them all out with no change, but that was before the battery was checked and found to fail the test. New battery kept the engine light off for like a week until I tried several cold starts. Then it came on and sure enough, the fuse was blown. What I'm finding is that I also have a vacuum leak so the brake booster vacuum pump is running (It's relay is also on this 5A circuit). So, I think just everything (SAI, vacuum pump, electric coolant pump) coming on at the same time when it is cold is just spiking the draw through that one fuse (plus the low-er battery voltage on cold start due to sitting (there is no other drain, checked that for an hour at shop) and cold oil I suppose). I checked the current TO the relays and found it to draw 0.15A when the vacuum pump goes on. To be expected. All the relays draw about that much. So I can't imagine how these 3 perfectly good relays are spiking it to over 5A even when all go on at once. But the indication is that this is so. Maybe the inductive load or something, I don't know. I'm going to fix the vacuum leak and get that pump to stop going on and see if that solves the problem. I saw somewhere else someone saw a spike up to 6A on this circuit. I have put a 10A fuse in there for now but I am not sure what could be damaged if it goes above 5A and why only a 5A fuse. A "slow-blow" would be nice but I don't think they make those for cars. Thanks everyone for all your input. I'll carefully do that drive cycle 2x and report back if I get through the smog check.
  9. Wow, thanks for the info! Almost like I am supposed to have a regular job and drive it to work!! Well, I don't think I have been fitting that pattern. So I will give it a shot. I have another question for you guys. Well, two. Am I right to assume I can drive it, warm it up on the highway, stop somewhere and shut it down, start it up while still warm, drive home and shut it down, let it cool off? That also being a drive cycle? I did try a couple cold starts before it warmed up and it blew the 5A fuse that runs the relays for the SAI and coolant pump. This fuse was blowing all the time (turning on engine light) until I found my battery was weak and failed the test. New battery, replaced the fuse, reset codes, no more engine light... until this attempt at starting (4 times) cold. After warm-up I replaced the fuse, cleared it, no more engine light. Any idea why that would blow that fuse (which only drives RELAYS)? I figured it was just high current from low voltage from a low battery. Maybe the case again? Just wondered if you have any other theories. Thanks again for the drive cycle info. And the gas tank info! Amazing. 2006 Cayenne Turbo Just noticed... why is this in the Boxster forum? Can it be moved?
  10. Haven't tried again yet. I'll give it a few days and see. I mean at the department of motor vehicles they will usually give you more time for an issue like this... one that is only a matter of time before it is fixed. You'd have to request the extension from them if it isn't resolved by the time yours is due.
  11. The dealer here in Newport Beach says they can reset that particular "readiness" item and it would cost 1hr ($185). Otherwise drive it and eventually it will get there. The local mechanic/smog tester guy said it depends on the number of cold starts, which I take to mean it isn't mileage, but starts that will get it there. You can always just pay the registration fee and avoid late charges but get a smog extension... but just get it tested right before you go in. It might have gotten there by then. But if you want to be sure, take it to the dealer and pay for 1 hr. I would think EVERY dealer would be at least a little cheaper than Newport Beach, CA.
  12. I have exactly the same problem going on right now. Just last night the mechanic told me everything passes except that the secondary air injection is not ready. He says just have to go through some more cycles of cold starts. I know that it only operates on the cold start. So I am hoping it will regenerate. I cleared my codes with the tester that I have. Recently replaced the battery which solved some other problems and now it no longer blows The five amp fuse which was shutting off the secondary air injection and causing the engine light to come on with the related codes. Hopefully it will just be a few more days of cold starts and all will be fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I've searched far and wide and haven't found an answer for this. I know how they are supposed to work. The button sometimes controls the situation and sometimes doesn't. I've taken apart the ceiling console. The switch looks and seems to work fine. The plastic is all in it's proper place where the button hits the circuit board. Both sides of the footwells and the door armrest backlighting go on and off at exactly the same time. Flickering. Seems to be affected by ride (e.g. speed bumps, driveways, aggressive driving). I attached a video. Anybody ever had this experience before? Any ideas? I sure would appreciate any experience or knowledge out there about how to fix it or even just about where to look. IMG_9948.MOV
  14. Thanks. I think I did see some DIY on youtube about rebuilding this exact diff. I did try the fluid change and no diff! Still had the noise. There were actually beautiful swirls of brass colored fine grains in the old oil. So THAT can't be good. I do wonder where exactly that metal is coming from. Maybe the bearing is shot and the gears are misaligned & wearing? Cuz I don't think bearings are made of that color/alloy. I put in the redline oil. Still making the same sound. Sightly worse a couple thousand miles later. Any idea what exactly would produce that color metal shavings? I'll ask my local guys that are probably the ones to install it whether they think the health of the replacement can be determined. I'll report back. Thanks again.
  15. Hi. The title is probably self explanatory. If I get a used diff, is it just plain risky, or can it be understood whether the thing is one of the good ones or not before I replace my noisy one with it? Much thanks for any insight.
  16. Thanks. Yes, I wouldn't worry about it except that I live in California and have to get it to pass smog to get it registered. They will require it be fixed. I did test the impedance of the pump the code indicates is faulty and it shows continuity, so no blown out pump according to the troubleshooting steps in the factory service manual. And the pump looks totally fine physically. Nothing has fallen apart. I'll try the relay and see what happens. Just wondering if one being out could affect the other one by just shutting down the whole system in the computer. I know this happens with the cornering head lamps. One burns out, the other stops working.
  17. Hi all. I know this is an old thread but all the problems I have seem to be already discussed in pretty good detail. This one I am mystified. I have checked: Pumps & their filters, visibly physically OK; fuse F3, OK; hoses at valves, OK; connectors to pumps seem fully engaged... but with the covers off of the pumps, the blades visible I can see that NEITHER of them spins on cold start. I say "cold" start, it was the first start of the day even thought it was midday 80 degrees. I figured they should run. It seems there are two relays for these pumps in the water box but it seems so unlikely that they both went out. Does anyone know if there is an interaction between these two pumps in the system... like if one doesn't work, will the other one just not run? Code just says bank 1. Any insight would be a big help!
  18. The code reader gave 0898 which is air conditioning compressor not engaged... something like that. Funny story... I replaced a valve cover gasket a couple of months ago. Some of you may know that wire that goes over the left valve cover. I've learned it goes to the A/C compressor. I had read another post where someone decided to cut and splice that wire rather than disconnect it from wherever down in there they could see it went at the time. I for some reason thought that sounded like a good idea! So, I've discovered the splice job I did was faulty. I soldered and shrink wrapped it and all's good. Moral of the story: If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over again?! Thanks for all your help loren, guys. Sure appreciate it! It's good to be on here and I'll see what contribution I can make.
  19. The FSM of course just tells you how to troubleshoot using the Porsche tester. No "under the hood" commands for the bus. I gave up on trying to find commands for my Torque tool. I'll have a new code reader, Porsche iCarsoft i960, in a few days. Says it includes the Air Conditioning control. Hope it works!
  20. No, I don't know anyone with the vagcom. Guess I'm not social enough! Good try though, thx. Seems I should be able to read anything if I have the right code & setup info for the specific thing I'm looking for on the specific vehicle. Looking into it. I'm sure the info is out there. OH! I just remembered, I ordered the FSM the other day. Better go download it and see what's in there.
  21. I have the "Torque" app. It doesn't list any A/C related codes in the custom area. The fault codes displaying are only as before (secondary air injection) which is another story. The A/C PID could be entered but it is asking for hexadecimal "AA BB" type code input to be able to add custom and check them. Any idea where I can look this up or perhaps you have the hex code? From my looking around it appears there are codes for A/C Pressure Switch and other related A/C items but I would need to enter the hex codes. Any clues you can provide may shed some light.
  22. I'll check the codes again. I have android ODB2. No durametric. I did check before and only had an issue to do with secondary air injection. But I think the A/C was working then. I'll check and reply.
  23. Thanks @Brett968. First let me say you just blew my mind with your generosity and your knowledge of this thing! So, thanks for delivering some truth and clarity. Ok, no clutch! Sounds like a cool way to do A/C. Let's see now what I can answer... They did the visual inspection and didn't find anything obviously wrong. I did measure the pressure on the low side at 125 psi with everything turned on at the console. I know it's supposed to be much lower but they said that is not unusual if the compressor is not running. I don't remember their numbers but they didn't seem inconsistent with mine so no flag in my memory. High side was similar to low side pressure. Pretty sure they said it had refrigerant in there. I don't know how they can tell. They seem like a decent shop that has been here for 60 years. They just said it must be something electronic that they don't have the equipment to diagnose. I figure since they used the words "no voltage" that they weren't expecting a PWM signal so good point there! If I'm not imagining things, I think the temp goes up and down very slightly on a cycle of a few seconds but it is generally warm. Never feels like cooling. Never drops any condensation on the ground. It went from dripping a LOT to dripping not at all. I will mention, just in case it is relevant, that the interior fan went out a while back and I replaced that about a week before the cooling quit cooling.
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