https://www.renntech.org/rss/1-latest-topics.xml/Latest Toptics at RennTech.orgenFri, 17 Apr 2026 10:15:33 +0000Hi All, I have a 2008 987.1 Boxster 2.7l, which I use as a daily and for spirited driving – but not track use, here in the United Kingdom. Needing to pull on your expertise.. I’ve spent hours trying to understand a few things at once, but not getting very far..!! forgive me if I make a hash of explaining my questions.. I’m going to need to change out my headers and exhaust soon, followed by a plenum upgrade and ECU stage 2. My car has the PSE system – which I’ve grown to like as there are times and occasions when quieter or louder are appropriate. I’d like to get a setup which, I understand, is a ‘valved’ system. Are there valved systems which can be connected up to the existing PSE to be able to operate from the switch just like the original system? If so.. please can you tell me of any systems which would work? I understand my car has 4 catalytic converters.. each side having one built into the headers, and one in the ‘back box’ section – is this correct? Are the header-cats known as the PRIMARY cats, and the back box cats ..the SECONDARY cats? Is a ‘DECAT’ exhaust meaning a CATBACK system which does not have cats in the back boxes? Is it possible to fit headers without cats – that would still pass an MOT, or is it a case of getting what I’ve read about.. 200 cell cat headers? What would be the preferred complete set up? No header cats? No back box cats? Are different manufacturers of headers and cat back exhausts using THE SAME dimension pipework? I’ve probably not been very concise, but hopefully you ‘get’ what I’m after.. ideally I’d like to get some headers and exhaust which sound nice, fit together size-wise, reduce where possible restrictive cats, is valved and can be connected to original PSE vacuums/wiring etc.. but also that will be beneficial for a planned plenum upgrade (deciding between 74mm and 82mm with GT3 throttle body) and ECU stage 2.. hopefully, all brought together to work complementing each other by some tuning wizard who I haven’t located yet..!! I do like the sound of the Borel exhaust – but I don’t think that is a valved system. I’d like to get something which sounds deep and throaty – like a 1980’s air-cooled 911..LOL.. , rather than high-pitched and raspy. Any insights, recommendations or general advise or help I’d be really grateful for, please. Many thanks 😊Tue, 07 Apr 2026 01:48:46 +0000Probably a dumb question, but I’m mid-install of the Rennline ignition coils and I got the matching hardware kit that goes with them. The 2 longer bolts per coil make sense, but I’m confused on the 4 bolts and “spacers” that come with it. The kit says these are for the “exhaust heat shields”, but I’m not visually seeing where these would go or if they are even used on my car. I do have aftermarket bypass pipes and muffler so maybe that matters? MY 2000 base Tip Link to kit: https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/RENM67HARDWARE.htm?pn=REN-M67-HARDWARESat, 04 Apr 2026 23:09:00 +0000Hi all i am new here in this forums ,tnx to adding me i have cayenne 958 2012 3.0 tdi ,the car is start normally but when i want to shut off the engine is not shutting off i changed elv lock and i have the same issue!! I need help ,digrama, if anyone have this problem before. In the dash is come steering lock when the is on and all dtc are clear when the engine on tnxThu, 02 Apr 2026 17:17:35 +0000Are/were the silver rings ever available to buy? I never found them available for sale. This is a Porsche stock photo in the Porsche Shop entry for the leather key ring in the photo, so I suppose this is 100% stock, and they would be available either as a factory option for the cluster or separately? Can't find any associated P/N anywhere though.Wed, 01 Apr 2026 17:16:17 +0000I have a 2.7l 986, but I believe it is fitted with S calipers (they are red and say Porsche on them so haven't been repainted). The brake discs, however, have the diameter measurements of the base discs. Is it possible to fit S calipers on the base discs, or have I just mis-measured? Thanks!Fri, 27 Mar 2026 20:10:36 +0000Hola buenas. Soy Oscar de Zaragoza España tengo un 955S y quisiera poner levas al volante del 955. Alguien sabe o hay algún tutorial por ahí? GraciasFri, 20 Mar 2026 21:37:36 +0000Had a prior thread on this, thought I fixed it but apparently not. 1998 Boxster 986. When opening the passenger door using either the inside handle or outside handle, the window drops so long as the handle is held, but once either handle is released the window goes back up to the closed door position. Originally, only the outside handle exhibited this temporarily down, then back up when released behavior, so I removed the door panel, found that the outer door handle's microswitch had become disconnected (maybe he window had caught it when lowered as the microswitch wiring was not secured but rather hanging free?), reconnected it and put the door back together. After this repair, both handles started to exhibit this window drop then up on release behavior. I wasn't as detailed as I usually am in documenting tests/changes I've done, but I do believe that both handles started behaving properly after a programming sequence -- raising window then holding switch for 20 sec, then doing the same after lowering window -- but then reverted to the window drop then up on release behavior after a few cycles. I also sprayed some silicon lubricant director into the lock actuator, and this also seemed to work for a few cycles before returning to the window drop then up on release behavior. Given that both the inside and outside handle are exhibiting this behavior, I am thinking that it is not the handle microswitches that are the problem but rather the lock actuator itself. However, before I start throwing parts at it, I wanted to see if anyone has had this particular problem or can otherwise tell me what my next steps should be. Thanks in advance for any help.Tue, 17 Mar 2026 17:10:46 +0000Hello, would anyone have this wiring diagram? Or a good source to buy the correct year wiring for my 2002? Thank you all, DouglasThu, 12 Mar 2026 13:43:44 +0000Tue, 10 Mar 2026 17:50:12 +0000My 2000 base model Boxster needs shocks... I have a complete set of Bilstein B6's I'm going to install and am in the process of getting things prepped for the project... the car is up on jack stands, I've sprayed all the fasteners with penetrant and am planning to start getting things loosened up or taken off today. Car has 116k+ miles on it, and I don't have the service history... picked it up pretty reasonably, considering. First, I understand the caliper bolts are single use parts but have heard of people re-using them. I'd prefer not to, given that they are spec'ed single use, they take a lot of abuse during braking, and for all I know, are25+ years old. New set is $52 @ Pelican... any logical reason not to spend the money other than to save the $52? Next.. I pressure washed the suspension for all the obvious reasons. Looking at the rubber on some of the easily observable parts, they don't appear to be that bad, maybe that will change once I get them off and can do a better inspection... however, I ordered the suspension kits from Pelican already given the lack of history... I'm wondering if anyone who's trying to do a budget repair would consider pressing used but apparently serviceable parts like these back into service just to get the job done at a considerable discount from new ones... Finally, somebody painted my the calipers yellow, apparently with some sort of rattle can paint, as lots came off during pressure washing. Personally, I'd prefer to keep them the original black (my car is Arctic Silver.. the yellow peeking out doesn't look that great) with the nice Porsche logo showing. Any thoughts on how to get the cheap yellow off without harming the original powder coating. I tried a bit of acetone, didn't do much. Looking forward to hearing anyone's thoughts on these things... thanks in advance for sharing them.... marvMon, 09 Mar 2026 15:49:24 +00002001 996 C4 Cabriolet w/Tiptronic Short version: My transmission has been rebuilt professionally including the pump, torque converter, and valve body and also has a new input shaft sensor. Nobody rebuilds these in my area, and no shops would take it out and wait for it to get back. So, I've taken it in and out several times and shipped it off. It runs ok at low RPM though all the gears when I first start it. When it warms up, I feel it starting to slip when the torque converter should be locking up, and it goes into limp mode. I've checked and rechecked the fluid levels at the proper temperature. I want to reset the adaption values. I have these tools: Enthusiast-level Durametric - No help Autel MaxiCOM MK900B - No help Schwaben by Foxwell Professional Porsche Scan Tool - No Help Cloned version of PIWIS 3 - Can't find the adaption reset if it's there Has ANYONE ever reset their TIP adaptive settings on a 1999-2001 model? If so, how? Also, I looked for the TCU in front of the rear passenger seat under the carpet, but no luck. That's where the shop manual says to look, Where else would it be? The photos are of the transmission out of the car and going up the ramps into my SUV. On the plus side, I've gotten quite good a taking it out and putting it back in.Thu, 05 Mar 2026 19:10:18 +0000Just trying to find an active forum to discuss my 986... It's got just over 116,00 miles on it and I'm trying to take care of all the issues. One concern is an emgine-speed related rumble, comes on about 2200-2300 rpms, gets about as bad as it gets around 3000, quiets down / goes away at higher rpms. I'm thinking engine mount / trans mounts replacement might help... I'm assuming the failed rubber is allowing things to resonate in that rpm range. Anyone out there dealt with something similar, or have an opinion on my mounts assumption? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.... MKWed, 04 Mar 2026 14:34:10 +0000I'm having some problems with the headlights on our '97 986 and having pulled the assemblies out of the vehicle I found the wiring inside was dry brittle and crumbling. Lots of exposed copper, probably caused a short and damaged the lamps. I have been searching for a replacement loom but cannot find anything close. Everything I find seems to be the full harness that goes 'outside' of the headlight assembly, not the internal wiring. Any idea what name/terms to search for, and where to search. Everything I found was on ebay, nothing OEM new. For now I've tried to wrap in tape but worse comes to worse I will cut/splice and put new heat shrink over it all. Unless you guys have any better solutions. The lamps incidentally are aftermarket HID LEDs. I am going to try to replace with OEM bulbs for now. Only the high beam works right now CheersSun, 01 Mar 2026 00:31:59 +0000I'm about to install a brake controller for my trailer. I understand that it is supposed to be located under the bash near the steering column. Has anyone done this installation or removed the panels under the steering column? I'm a little concerned about removing the airbag panel under the dash so I thought I'd check to see if anyone had any advice.Sat, 28 Feb 2026 17:17:32 +0000I appear to have a passenger door window drop issue on my 1998 986 Boxster that I can't seem to diagnose. Here's the situation. About a week or so ago, the passenger door stopped doing the short "window drop" function when the outside door handle was pulled. The inside handle seemed to enable the drop as did releasing the convertible top latch enable the "long" window drop on both windows. The driver side door short window drop function worked fine with both the inside and outside handles (I replaced the regulator in the drive door 4-6 months ago, so re-did all the up-down and front-back adjustments at that time). Given the above, I decided it must be the outside door microswitch, so I purchased a replacement OEM outside door handle microswitch for the passenger door. When I removed the door panel to replace the outside door microswitch, I discovered that the microswitch at the connector had become disconnected: the microswitch pigtail wiring had come loose from both of the tabs that are supposed to secure the microswitch pigtail to the door body and out of the way of the window, so perhaps the window caught the pigtail on it on a lowering cycle and pulled the connector apart. I reconnected the microswitch (I did not replace it with the new one, thinking I would return it if the one in-place worked), secured the wiring out of the way of the window track with cable ties, and put the door back together. I then reprogrammed the window by holding the window switch down for 10 seconds after each fully lowering, then raising, the window. Now neither the inside door handle or outside door handle work properly with regard to the drop function. The outside door handle, when pulled, does nothing to actuate the window drop function. The inside door handle, when pulled, actuates the window drop function, however when the handle is released, the window goes back to a full upright/closed position. I would attach videos to show the inside door handle behavior but the forum doesn't allow it. The convertible latch, when released, still causes the long drop on both windows. Anyone have any ideas as to what is going on? Given the 2nd and beyond times of doing a job go exponentially faster, I plan to remove the door card/panel again and install the outside handle microswitch (as it is almost cheaper to keep than returning it) to see what happens, but if that doesn't work, would the lock actuator mechanism be the next part to throw at it? Thanks in advance for any help? austinporsche is online now Report PostSat, 28 Feb 2026 16:24:38 +0000HI, I previously reported that my starting issue was solved. It’s not, and now the car won’t start unless the relay is bypassed. I originally swapped out the starter relay, and same problem came back as evidenced in the video. I purchased an aftermarket relay and installed it. That worked for a few days, and then stopped working. Now, I can only get the car to start if I bypass the relay. I thought if bypassed the relay, then a replacement relay would be the solution, but that did not work. Where should I go from here? IMG_3505.mov Aftermarket relay below: Car starts when the relay is bypassed: Where should I go from here?Mon, 23 Feb 2026 02:15:08 +0000Fri, 20 Feb 2026 14:01:00 +0000Hi has anybody used this stuff in their car? It gets very good reviews online and YouTube videos.. Thing is.. I'm in the UK and over here when you take your car to the garage to get the aircon recharged, they use a premix system that puts in the refrigerant and the pag oil to the correct quantity. It's a big machine that they plug onto your AC system and you can't intervene to add anything. So I'd like to look at using this Cool Ox.. but the internet is saying for a 987.1, the correct amount of oil should be 195 ml. So currently my car is charged up with the refrigerant and presumably the right amount of oil. I've purchased an oil/dye injector that you can connect to the low pressure valve.. but I read that it's not a good idea to put too much oil in your AC system. So let me see if I can explain what I'm asking here... What would be the way to go about this.. would You just put the additive in as well as the 195ml of PAG (.. meaning the Cool Ox would not actually count towards the amount of oil already in there, presumably because it will go to work and be used up coating the metal surfaces), or do you add it INSTEAD of the PAG oil, or would you makeup the 195 ml from both the PAG oil AND Cool Ox..? I hope I've explained that ok... Thanks very much in advance.Thu, 19 Feb 2026 22:57:51 +0000On my ‘06 987, the fog lights switch will not turn on the fog lights, nor do the little lights by the switch I tested the Fuses 5 and 7 on the top row, they are good.Tue, 17 Feb 2026 18:15:26 +0000To anyone who installed a PCCM+ in a MOST 996/986, when you initially attached the MOST box, could you see red light inside the socket when the radio powered up? I have no red light shinning at all. And, for anyone who has currently such a setup, can you check whether the MOST version number shows up in the version info screen? For comparison, I'm attaching a photo of my version info screen, MOST version empty. It appears the PCCM+ does not detect the MOST box. I read about a lot of cases where the MOST box was DOA, I'm wondering if I have another such case. My car is non-MOST and am not going to use it initially at leat but given I have an aftermarket amp with a Toslink input (and only speaker-level inputs, no line-level) I was thinking about getting a MOST to Toslink converter and ensure a fully digital path to the amp. The way it will be now, the PCCM+ converts the iPhone digital stream to analog, amplifies it to speaker level and then it goes down the line to the amp, where it will be digitised again, processed by the DSP stage, converted back to analog and amplified again and finally sent to the speakers. So, I was definitely considering using a fully digital path but that requires a working MOST output. So, can someone please check their "Version Info" screen and see if their MOST shows a version or is also empty, despite working fine?Tue, 17 Feb 2026 17:41:34 +0000my ABS pump was not sending fluid to one whee,l I verified the pump the aluminum casing had one of the holes clogged or something I was not getting a drop of fluid out of one hole. I went ahead and ordered a used part from Ebay now my question is. Should I remove the manifold from the old pump and put in the new manifold and use the original electronics from the car or can I just put in the whole new pump? If I just put in the new (to Me) complete pump do I have to reprogram it or something? I know I have to bleed it but do I have to do anything else? I saw one guy on YouTube say that he is using the original computer so he does not need to program anything, is this true?Tue, 17 Feb 2026 02:16:20 +0000I have a 2001 Boxster S with the 6-speed transmission and it's had a small transmission/differential leak that appears to be coming from the driver's side main shaft. This is the shaft that comes out of the trans/diff and has a flange on it that connects to the axel. How do I remove this shaft and get access to the bad seal? I've seen other instructions that include removing a nut or bolt in the middle of the flange but mine does not seem to have either (see pic below.) Thank you!Mon, 02 Feb 2026 16:56:34 +0000Freezing cold morning but backing out of my garage I found a perfectly straight stripe of oil down the center of my windshield on the inside. It must have been thin enough to run down from the top all the way to dashboard, and wiping with a rag it smeared like oil or grease. I am thinking hood latch but what could make a drip like that and why now?Mon, 02 Feb 2026 16:17:46 +0000hello everybody. bought a 957 for winter which i better didnt buy. to many issues. Some specialist / last owner / changed the batterie , but not the way it should be. screws in front of the seat did not come out , so he tried a different way. i dont what he did but he destroyed in some way the mechanism under the seat. up and down, forward backwards , everything doesnt work like it should be. I am thinking to buy a used seat and change it. My question : Is it plug and play and are the seats from 955 fitting the 957 ? Thanks a lot for your assistanceWed, 21 Jan 2026 23:05:50 +0000