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Found 37 results

  1. So I was watching a YouTube video on how to clean my throttle body. It was very thorough except for one thing. It never mentioned anything about the two small tubes that insert into the gasket that connects the plenum to the intake manifolds. I've searched and can find no info on what these tubes are. I snapped one and am not looking forward to trying to run a new one. If I could just leave it off that would be best.
  2. I have had a good run with my 986 and no problems for a good while, but nothing lasts forever... In the last month the car will randomly stall and refuse to start back up for an undefined period of time. When it happens all the lights on the dash will flash on as if the key has just been turned to the on position. The starter will crank the engine happily but there is no ignition happening. This will last for an unknown amount of time (20 min or a day) and then the car will start right up again. Only to stall out later at some unknown point. (15 min or 1 hour). I have hooked the durametric up to it each time and got nothing, except the last time. P1571 fault 39, pointing to the immobilizer. After searching I came upon this thread from 2009, that describes exactly what I am experiencing, but a solution was never posted. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/28462-cranks-but-wont-start-help-please/ So to get down to point, I have a few trouble shooting questions and steps I will take next; 1.) The ignition switch has been giving me the traditional issues and it probably needs to be replaced (again). If the electronics in the plastic switch are going bad, could they cause this? Engine stall, clean crank with no start-up? 2.) could the P1571 be attributed to a freak accident during the stall that confused the car since I never got this error before? After I cleared it and cranked it with no start, there were no new fault codes. 3.) Im reading conflicting info on crank position sensors. Will they relay a fault code, or not? 4.) I have tried both keys, ruling out a bad key transmitter. 5.) I will check the immobilizer under the seat, but don't expect any water damage. 6.) I will check all the relays. Sorry for the long winded explanation. If anyone has a history with this, or any insight to #1,#2, or #3, please share.
  3. Hi everyone, I've been reading the RT Forums for a while but now I'm finally registered in order to try and track down an issue I've been having. I've searched for related issues through the forums already, but nothing is showing up which is a match for mine. '99 2.5, 5 Speed, 99K Miles Only upgrades are headers and catback. I've owned the car since March of this year and it's been great so far. I've even taken it to the local PCA Autocross. A couple of weeks ago I was cruising on the freeway when my CEL came on steady, no blink. There was no noise or indication to me that anything had gone wrong, the car kept running completely as usual. When I got it home I plugged in my code reader and got a cylinder 5 misfire. I had been planning on a spark plug job anyway, so I got new spark plug tubes the next day as well as 6 plugs and did the job. I reset the CEL for the drive to my garage space, but on the way there I got a real misfire under heavy acceleration that felt and sounded like the engine was really struggling. It did go away after a few seconds, though. Whomever was the last person/garage to do the plugs on the car was a complete idiot and should never touch a car again. None of the spark plugs were torqued, and were all finger tight. The cylinder 5 plug was covered in dirty oil and had BOTH of its electrodes snapped off. God only knows where they ended up, but it didn't seem to be in the engine, so that's good I guess. Once I replaced all the the plug tubes and actually torqued down the plugs themselves, the engine seemed to fire up fine, plus I was no longer getting a ticking on idle that I thought might be a valve issue. I guess things sound a lot better when the spark plugs are tightened. Since I thought that cleared things up, I drove it home, and on the way found space to put my foot down. As soon as the pedal reached the floor, the misfiring started again, with the engine again getting super rough and struggling. Once I got home I was able to recreate the issue in my driveway by just pinning the throttle and letting the misfires happen again. Just to be sure the computer didn't still have some wonky settings in it, I disconnected the battery for 30 minutes to let everything reset. Since then I've been pretty scared to go WOT, but a few days ago I did and the exact same thing happened again. That code indicated cylinders 2 and 3. Last night I did it again and the code showed cylinder 2. Unfortunately, the miss didn't go away immediately like it usually does, so it followed me home. Still, it went back to normal as soon as I turned off the engine and restarted. Long story short: I'm getting a rough misfire when I go to full throttle, happens pretty much the instant the pedal hits the floor. Usually goes away within a few seconds. No other symptoms, idles and run completely as normal at all other times. No CEL if I don't trigger the misfire with the gas pedal. Any ideas? EDIT: Also, it doesn't appear to be a symptom of revs. The miss starts when the pedal goes to WOT, not when the revs climb past a certain mark. I've revved it quite high at partial throttle with no issue. My code reader says the miss last night started at 3800 rpm, but full throttle.
  4. 1999 Porsche Boxster 986 shows check engine light (CEL). Code read at autozone as P0112 Error Code (Intake Air Temperature Circuit Low Input). According to <http://repairpal.com/obd-ii-code-p0112>, the error code causes could be Defective Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IAT) Dirty air filter Defective Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) Faulty or corroded Intake Air Temperature wiring or connection MAF: Bosch 996 606 123 00​ (serial number?:0 260 217 007) DME: Bosch 996.618.601.04 (serial number?:0 261 204 605). Lots of other numbers on DME. Can post image if required. After doing some research, I did some basic digital multi-meter tests between the MAF, IAT, and DME (MAF/IAT are combined into one unit in the '99 Boxster). NOTE: Engine Control Unit (ECU) seems synonymous or very related to DME or Digital Motor Electronics in the Porsche Boxster, Boxster S Service Manual: 1997-2004 by Bently Publishers {ISBN-10: 083761645X -- ISBN-13: 978-0837616452} I detached the MAF cable from the MAF, and I uninstalled the Engine Control Unit (ECU) from the trunk wall and detached the ECU cable from the ECU. I then measured the resistance between the following terminals. These results were: MAF 1 to DME 15: 0-0.5 Ohms MAF 2 to DME 54: 0-0.5 Ohms MAF 3 to DME 45: 0-0.5 Ohms MAF 4 to DME 47: 0-0.5 Ohms MAF 5 to DME 17: 0-0.5 Ohms Based on the pinout of the MAF to DME, and according to Porsche Boxster, Boxster S Service Manual: 1997-2004 by Bently Publishers, I have a DME version 5.2.2. I'll have to update what the service manual descriptions of these terminals are tonight when I am near the book again. Then, with the MAF re-installed and the DME re-installed and all cables reconnected, I measured the following values: Engine @ idle, MAF 4 to MAF 3 is 5v. Engine @ idle, MAF 1 to MAF 3 is 3volts Engine @ idle, MAF 2 to MAF 3 is 13.6volts. Engine @ idle, MAF 3 to car ground is shorted. Engine @ idle, MAF 3 to MAF 5 is 1.38V. Engine @ 3000 RPM, MAF 3 to MAF 5 is 2volts. From these measurements, it appears as though the MAF is running properly. Could someone confirm? Other tests/info: I cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner, which had no effect. I drove the car with the MAF cable removed from the MAF and the car drove exactly the same as with the MAF cable connected. I bought the car with the P0112 error code showing, so I don't know what the car drove like without it. That said, the car does not have difficulty idling and is definitely faster than my 2008 Corolla LE. I can't say if it is as responsive or as quick as it should be, however. To try to find vacuum leaks, I sprayed carburetor cleaner on literally everything I could see in the engine with the top engine cover removed. the engine speed did not change from idle at any point during the carburetor cleaner test did. With the engine off, the MAF removed, and the air temp around 60-70°F, I measured the MAF terminals below. MAF 1 to MAF 3 is 1.7 kOhm. Maf 2 to everything is either open loop or megaohms. Then, with engine still off and the MAF removed, I breathed on the thermistor and read the following values: MAF 1 to MAF 3 is 1.4kOhm Maf 2 to everything is either open loop or megaohms. Based on a DME 7.8 manual, the IAT is supposed to read 2.3-2.7kOhms at ~20°C. Which would put the resistance of my IAT (1.4-1.7kOhms) a little low. Does anyone have a DME 5.2.2 manual to confirm what the resistance of IAT (pin 1 to 3) should be? If this resistance is OK, then does anyone have ideas as to what else the problem could be? It seems like my current options are: Replace MAF (~$250 <http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=996-606-123-00-M14&catalog_description=>) Vacuum system smoke test Re-flash DME (~$400) Replace DME(~$1000 min) ​I've read bad things about using after-market MAF's, so I will only be replacing w/ official MAF if that is the correct path to take.
  5. I'm getting ready to put my engine back in after rebuilding it and I was wondering if I am going to need to have a rear wheel alignment done afterward. You have to take off so many brackets, braces, and supports that I'm feel like the whole procedure would throw the alignment out of whack. My problem is that my nearest Porsche shop is 50 miles away and I wouldn't want to have to drive it there with the alignment out badly. Any thoughts or advice?? Tom
  6. A creature has chewed threw the wires that come out of the camshaft solenoid 1-3. Is it possible to remove the solenoid by removing the 2, 10mm screws and will the solenoid slide out? Is it possible to repair the wires once the solenoid is removed. All that's left is a 1/8 of an inch of wire to work with. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  7. hey guys, this is my first post in hopes of coming to a conclusion, i currently have a 1998 porsche boxster with tiptronic transmission, the following problems are as follows. 1.when in parking the car doesnt stop 2.when in automatic drive car doesnt go to 3rd gear it jumps from 2nd to safe mode with a big kick 3.when left on first gear in manual mode car exhaust sound gets louder, and when letting of the gas does big kick to safe mode 4.when the car is turned on and switched to manual the tiptronic controls only lets me move up to 2nd gear. i was thinking it was the transmission ecu but it wasnt, i have tried 2 other ecu's one with the exact serial codes as the original (besides actual ecu serial) and still same problem Might it just be the transmission itself? if so where can i buy rebuild parts? and guide on how to. I really need to get this figured out any advice would be helpful, thank-you for your time :)
  8. need help, it is a 98 Boxster 2.5 as you see in the picture the red lined tube is the one not in diagram, the blue and green circles i dont know where they go, neither the purple, now the yellow line leads to the back and that too i dont know where it goes, thank-you :)
  9. Dear Forum Users, firstly thank you in advance for any contributions, they are much appreciated. The Background; I'm coming from a low knowledge-base, though am fairly good at following instructions, I don't have enough experience to diagnose problems. I have a '99 Boxster, owned for nearly 2 years. Unitl recently this was my primary car in everyday use and worked pretty much perfectly (though I'm sure it could do with a little TLC). I recently moved to a new job with company car provided, meaning the Boxster is used much less. I've endevoured to drive it every couple of days to keep things running smoothly, however, very stupidly, due to bad weather I left it completely inactive for a about three weeks. The Problem; I came to start the car after three or so weeks and got the 'clicking' sound at the point of ignition. I presumed this meant the battery was dying. I purchased some jump leads and returned the car a couple of days later, now the battery was completely dead, couldn't even open the bonet/hood. I searched the forums and found the emergency release cable. I excitedly hooked up the jump leads to my company car and Boxster. Immediately all the electronics, including fan, worked perfectly. I turned the key in anticipation only to be met with the 'clicking' sound and no ignition. I waited a few seconds and tried again, same thing. I tried again holding the key in the final position, only to get a repeated clicking. At one point the car did sound like it was about to fire, it almost jerked a little, but then went back to clicking so I stopped. The clicking sound was definitely coming from the engine. Your help is much, much appreciated, I can't wait to hear the sound of the engine firing again!
  10. Hey guys, I think it's time to replace my clutch. Its been slipping pretty bad and I'm doing my best to drive it very gently or not at all. Its a 986 2.5L manual transmission. I've read up on pelican the whole DIY and parts list. I just wanted to see what clutch kit you all would suggest? Also, should I plan on replacing my flywheel? Any suggestions or words of advice would be VERY much appreciated. First time doing a clutch replacement 8)
  11. So the other night I was talked into letting my girlfriends brother drive my 99 boxster 2.5l. To say the least, im preatty sure he burned up my clutch. I could smell it and I could tell by the way he was letting it out so slowly. Well when I got back in the driver's seat I realized the car seemed to be shuttering or hesitating whenever i would give it more than minimal gas needed for acceleration. Usually it happens right around 3k rpms. I was assuming that it was the clutch starting to go.. I looked around on pelican and some other forums and would probably end up doing the clutch myself if it came to it. But I guess Im just wondering if there is something else that may be going on? Does something need to be adjusted? Replaced? Any help or pointers are greatly appreciated. 99 Boxster Base 97k Miles 2.7 liter 5 Speed
  12. Please help, After thoroughly searching for someone who has had this issue, I am still lost. Vehicle is a 2000 Boxster 2.7, 5 speed manual. Vehicle has factory Becker radio with tape deck. CDR 220 I believe. I have replaced the ignition switch as recommended for similar problems, but there were no changes First, the vehicle will sometimes not crank when turned to the starter position. It takes multiple turns and sometimes even locking and unlocking the vehicle before it will start (acts like clutch is not depressed when trying to start). It seems to be happening more often and I am afraid it may not work at all in the near future. It is not the battery. Electrical connections to battery are good. I thought possibly the clutch switch but it does not seem to have any effect on it from what I can tell. All fuses look good. Radio fuse in footwell fuse box was blown but I replaced it. Secondly, the Radio does not turn off or on when key is turn to ON position. This happens 100% of the time. The radio can be turned on with the On button in the same way that it can be with no key in the switch. It has to be manually turned off or else it will play continuously. Even if the vehicle is locked. The red LED flashes when the unit is off and the vehicle is running. More pertinent information, All of this started happening after I removed the factory head unit temporarily. I have read different things online as what to do with the brown/blue wire that senses the radio in the dash. Some people say ground it out, others say to tape it off (no ground?). I cannot tell if it makes it act differently if it is grounded, but I may not be getting a good ground (short wire in dash)... Wire cannot be reconnected as originally was. Horn honks once after locking (I figure this is because of the radio security wire) and dash led blinks twice in rapid succession continuously. What should I do with this wire? Why would this affect the ON and OFF of the radio when the ignition switch is turned? Is this linked to the starting issue? I think it may have done the starting problems a couple times before removing the head unit, but I am not positive. It has definitely gotten substantially worse since about the exact same time though. I have already replaced the ignition switch. Also, can I disable the clutch switch entirely or will that not allow the cruise control system to function? Please help!!! Thank you all. The boxster community is amazing!
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