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Found 21 results

  1. Hello I have a tough question for any advanced Renntech users who have either stripped a 997 back to minimum wiring for racing, or fixed key issues Can anyone help with my alarm issues. Im building a 997 Track car- using a salvage chassis and the remaining parts from a rolled and written off cabriolet. Im think the key worked to unlock to car before i pulled it apart, but cant be certain as the engine was already out so there were limit functions to activate then. Since moving the dashboard and whole wiring loom into race chassis, I can unlock the doors (yes, its the correct key, ive moved the doors over too), and the dashboard lights up to tell me the current odometer values. However the whole time from when the battery is connected, the alarm siren is going off (currently a clamp muffles that noise to save the neighbors). I can put the key in the barrel, rotate, and then still remove it (the Barrel lock appears to electrically be live, as it releases the key). My guess if that the key has lost its coding for the alarm system, but I've tried following these instructions, https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...working-2.html, with all combinations of button holding, pushing the hazard light switch, foot on brake, and key in/out barrel .... without any success in recoding the key. Its worth noting the windows dont go through the usual drop down upon lifting the door latch sequence, im assuming this is due to the alarm running. Any suggestions. - my options seem to be getting the local agent to reprogram the key - are there any other steps i should try to revive the key. I do only have 1 for the wrecked chassis's system - a final last though is am i missing some switch that needs bridging from the cabriolet circuits to tell if the roof is down/up Regards Logan Marriott
  2. HiI've just bought my first Porsche, a 1997 2.5 Boxster Manual UK RHD spec. It has got a few problems that I suspect are linked but don't know how to solve. Issues as follows:-Passenger (left side) door does not lock either with the key or the remote or the button on the dashRemote button on key does not work even though the LED lights up and the red light on the dash flashes.I can open/lock the drivers door with the key but when I do, the horn beeps twiceOther than that, car works fine and starts/runs perfectly.I've got hold of a durametric and got the follwoing fault codes/messages:-AlarmCurrent Fault Codes47No Central Locking PossibleCentral Locking synchronisationStatus: PresentNumber of times DTC present: 146No Central Locking PossibleCentral Locking synchronisationStatus: PresentNumber of times DTC present: 141No engine start possibleTransponder pill faulty or not presentStatus: Not presentNumber of times DTC present: 134No passenger compartment monitoringInterior monitoring sensor short to B+ or faultyStatus: PresentNumber of times DTC present: 145Central Locking or unlocking not possibleServer motor. Central Locking system short to B+Status: PresentNumber of times DTC present: 2Bit of a long list but anybody got any idea what all that means on a practical level ie how do I fix it!Thanks for your helpRichard
  3. I purchased a 1999 Porsche Boxster 986 about a year ago and I'm having a few problems with the electrical accessories. The top worked fine when I bought it, but now it won't work sometimes. The radio also turns on, then immediately off at startup, and it won' turn back on until a few minutes later either by itself, when I use turn signals, power windows, brake, or even just by itself. After the car is "warmed up", then it will stay on. Other things won't work right or not at all, such as the alarms for, ignition, door open, light switches, etc. The fuses are all fine, and I know the battery had been replaced right before I purchased it. I haven't checked the relay for the top, but I am about to do that now. I feel like there could be a single problem creating all these issues. Any help would be greatly helpful and appreciated!
  4. On my '08 GTS I have a few things happening. First, when arming the alarm, the hazards flash four times instead o the customary two. Is this an indication of a malfunction? Second, the rear hatch will not fully close when pressing the button on the liftgate. It will close when pressure is applied to the gate when closing. Both of these happened after the dealer replaced the driver's door module and re-coded the car. Any ideas on where to begin? Other than going back to the dealer.
  5. I'm having electrical issues with my 2000 Boxster S. My windows drop when the doors are opened, but they do not respond to the window controls. They do not come down when the Convertible top handle is pulled. The doors do not lock or unlock with the console button or the remote. I can only lock the driver door. The defrost button does not respond. I replaced the C3 and D1 fuses even though they looked and tested good. I'm getting 13 volts (when the car is on) at the C3 and D1 positions. I pulled the console and tested voltage to the switches and couldn't find any voltage between any two of the many wires going to each switch. I replaced the module under the driver seat with a new one from Suncoast Porsche and had my local dealer reprogram the new one from the old one's data. The only difference is that my convertible top started working soon after that. I read in other postings about SPDT relays that are just above the fuses, but I can't find any information about which relay would be affecting these components. Any ideas on next steps?
  6. Hi I just purchased a 2015 Cayenne Diesel. When I lock the car, it used to lock down AND made a chirping sound. After replacing a couple of fuses ("shuffling" as a matter of figuring out which fuse to replace), it stopped chirping. The door lock light comes on steady for several seconds then starts blinking. Thought it may be the "horn setting" but I can't find it in the manual. I suspect that one of the fuses I unplugged may have reset this setting? Does anyone know how to restore the original "lock and chirp" setting.
  7. LHD, Tiptronic, 1998 Carrera Coupe Hi all, new to the forum but I was consulting some existing threads in the public forums regarding similar and related issues before I started an attempt at this job. I have access to the full wiring diagrams for the vehicle, the pdf is "996 Wiring 1999-2000.pdf" and can be found on google. I had them printed out on large sheet paper so I could trace the wires and go through all the possible issues without having access to factory scanning tools. I'm an electronics and industrial instrumentation technician hoping to build more work experience and reputation in order to get access to more of these repair gigs in the future on higher model cars. I am working on a 1998 Carerra (Japan market) that was installed with a 'fancy' alarm system that sat on top of the existing setup and most of it was removed prior or at delivery, and I spent yesterday inspecting and repairing the wiring harness from the hack job that was previously in there. Today I went through the troubleshooting steps in order to eliminate probable causes of a no-crank. The current owner had ordered a new ACM (alarm control module) and had it re-programmed and had told me the porsche dealer said to him the reason it won't start is a 'wiring problem' which I believe I had repaired all the wiring so far in the vehicle. I still have the old ACM with the car, it's just un plugged in the front storage. After doing my troubleshooting today, I believe it to be the DME but my lack of understanding how the modules interact I'm not sure if it defective or just needing to have some re-programming of some sort which may require a porsche scan tool. Here's a take-away from my notes today; Check for B+ signal from ignition start to pin 30 on START LOCK RELAY SUPPORT REAR when ignition key set to START. B+ present Jumper pins 30 and 87 to test the relay is working. Turn ignition to START and check for engine cranking. Engine cranks. Check for B+ from pin 86 to the relay coil. B+ present Ground pin 85, and turn ignition to START. Engine cranks. Relay is working. Check for current path from pin 85 on the START LOCK RELAY SUPPORT REAR to the DME connector pin 66 ACTUATION START LOCK. YEL/VI/BR wire. There is a path. PIN 66 on the DME is not switching to ground, and this won't let the car crank and start. Check for path of ground from DME pin 68 START LOCK to the shifter PARK and NEUTRAL. It grounds in each position, open in any other. Check for B+ on pin 88 on the DME which is the DIAGNOSIS W LEAD, and the only wire from the alarm leading into the DME. From my understanding of the alarm system from reading the description of operation from my ALLDATA catalogue, there must be some sort of handshaking going on between the RFID in the key fob, the correct serial and cypher in the ACM and the DME in order for this pin 66 to ground to let the car start. Checks at 7.37V with the DME dis-connected, and 8.34V with the DME plug end connected. I also ohmed out this wire 0.2ohm to check for any unusual resistance because seeing that voltage struck me as unusual. Again, I'm not sure of how this system interacts but I can only assume it's correct as I also tried to measure this voltage with the spare ACM installed with the same reading. What I wanted to ask for; Is this a wiring problem, problem in the ACM or DME and what would have to be done to rectify it. Warm regards, Aurelius Attached are three helpful photos of the DME ACM and a sheet that I believe came with the new ACM
  8. Hello, I need help/direction with fixing my new car. As the title said, it was a salvage car with flood damage so i replace the fuse box first 99761034100 i put a picture below. The one i purchased came from another car and still had the cables attached so the pairing of my old bad one to the new one was like 95% easy matching. After the process of cutting,splicing and reattaching mostly everything worked! However, the autolocks and alarm is not working. Not sure what to do! Also, a few of the cables that came as part of the new fuse box, i was not able to connect! Not sure if that is right. So the question is how can i find out which cable(s) needed to be connected such that the auto lock, alarm, seats work? I found online a few diagrams but they do not point out which fuses or cables control those pieces. Thanks a million in advance, i heard great things about this group!
  9. Hi guys! When I have my hood down and lock the car, then stick my hand in alarm does nothing. Is this a senor issue, also how easy to fix? 2007 Boxster S Cheers for any responses, Mart
  10. New to the forum and i am having a difficult time navigating.I am not even sure this was the way to ask a question by posting a new topic... If not i apologize. I bought a 2002 boxter with automatic transmission and only 68,000 miles. First boxter and I know very little about the car. Had the car sit in the garage for a couple of weeks after the purchase and found it completely dead. The used car dealer that sold it to me changed the battery. Since then I seem to be having all kinds of annoying electrical problems. The key fob decided not to work any more. I replaced the key fob battery twice. Still nothing. My driver rear running light does not work, worked fine before. I checked the bulbs, all are fine. So are all the fuses. My driver front running side marker light does not work either. Nothing major but annoying nonetheless.
  11. Hello everyone, As some of you may already know, we talked about designing a waterproof case for the Alarm Immobilizer Unit in Boxsters and 996s. These units get water damaged easily if the convertible top is left open during rain, or just by the accumulation of water by the car's water drains, because Porsche installed them right on the floor of the car. The costs entailed to repair this problem can reach $1,000's easily, that's why it would be more cost effectuve to protect the CLU to begin with. Therefore, after many months of revisions and working with vendors to complete this enclosure, we began shipping waterproof cases last week to the members that where on our waiting list. Below are a few screenshots of the installation video final Immobilizer Waterproof case. If you are curious about how it is mounted here is the installation video: and PDF instructions: http://goo.gl/A9NQou We're excited about this project and what it could mean to the Porsche community. Please share if you know someone that could benefit from this.
  12. 2002 C4S (996).. I did a search but nothing definitive. Sounds like replacing the remote key worked for some people, and other people had luck doing otherwise or just didn't close their thread if they ever found a solution. I'm experiencing the following which was never a problem until a week ago: Sometimes the key remote opens/locks, sometimes it doesn't. It seems either that the remote device has an issue or it's somehow intermittently getting out of sync with the receiving unit in the vehicle. When I hit the button on the key I can see the light blinking on the key. When it's working I see the little red light on the vehicle dash receiver flash in "response". When it's not working I don't see the receiver flash at all. The lock/unlock button seems to only work intermittently. When the remote unlock does not work it seems that manually unlocking with the key, putting the key in the ignioion, then taking the key out and trying the lock/unlock button again makes it work again temporairly right away. The system works just fine when I use the key to unlock the doors the old fashioned way (manually using the key itself), etc.... so I'm thinking this is likely something more with the remote device in the key than it is with the central alarm and control unit within the car. If it is the remote key, what else could need to be replaced beside a battery? Can these remote devices in the Porsche keys just "go bad"? Strange that it's not just completely not working and does work intermittently still. Some other notes: - Durametric is showing no faults under "Alarm". (The only fault the entire car shows in any category is under "Seat Memory" and this hall sensor error has been observed by me in the past well before this issue surfaced, so I believe it's unrelated). - I ordered a CR 2032 battery to replace in my key but I'm assuming this isn't the issue since the little red light still blinks just fine when the button is depressed. I will see if that works when it gets here in a couple days. - The car came with a second key which I have never tried to use until this happened. This second key works just fine manually but the remote lock/unlock on it does not work at all (despite the fact that I see the red light flashing on the key). Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  13. When I turn the key, you can hear the doors lock and then about 1 second later you hear them unlock. However, the arlarm is indeed engaged and any attempt to open the door will set it off. How do you fix it? [TIP] If anyone else has this problem, I discovered a temporary "hack" to lock the doors, though it does requires 2 people: Have someone on the passenger side ready with their hand on the handle. Turn the key and when it clicks, you both immediately press and hold down the handles. For whatever reason, this stops it from unlocking itself.
  14. My key remotes no longer work. I can only (un)lock the car at the door with the key. The car isn't in energy saving mode and the batteries are new. I performed the resynchronization as noted in the factory service manual (turn ignition on, turn ignition off, remove key and press unlock button within 6 seconds); however, that didn't do anything. It's worth noting that I think the remote on one of my keys is broken, since the LED only flashes once/second and when I release the button, the LED glows dimly. But, my other key appears to be fine. The LED flashes nice and bright when I press a button (continuously for the unlock button, and pulsed flashing for the trunk, as you would expect.) Some background: I just replaced my immobilizer after my last one got water damaged. The old one still allowed the car to drive, but things weren't perfect: the remote range was poor, the head/tail lights didn't flash when arming the alarm system. I've been driving the car for the last year or so with the old immobilizer; however, I decided to replace it since I knew it was broken and I am also troubleshooting O2 sensor problems and wanted to eliminate variables. About a month ago, my remote range went from short to non-existent and I had to revert to the old-fashioned "key in the lock" method. I figured the receiver in the immobilizer finally bit it and was thankful that I had a new one on the way. Fast forward to today, I replaced the immobilizer, programmed it with a PST2, transferred the remote codes from the old immobilizer to the new one and low and behold, nothing! The remotes still don't work! I tried relearning the keys into the new immobilizer manually using my key codes and still nothing. I inspected the immobilizer connector for a broken antenna wire, but everything looks okay, additionally the remote doesn't work even if I hold it right on top of the immobilizer, so I don't think it's a poor signal/range issue. Is there anything I'm missing? THANKS!
  15. My normally reliable 1991 c2 has been at the mechanic for a week trying to figure out why the battery is being drained while the car is off / parked. There is an intermittent 16 amp drain that seems to occur momentarily every 6-15 seconds. Any ideas? There was an old TSB about water getting into the doors and shorting out the locking system I think. I'm really hoping that it is a simple matter. I miss my daily driver. TIA Jason
  16. Okay this is more than likely my fault for not getting my bulkhead drain grommets sorted out properly last autumn (they were blocked and causing water seepage into the cabin but when I was trying to clean it out I managed to push the old n/s grommet into never-never land.l bought a replacement and then did the same again! (To be fair it is a ba***rd to access as you'll know if you're familiar with this). I intended to try and access the never-never land area by removing the inner wheelarch liner in the Spring - by the way, as a separate issue, does anybody know if that will allow me to access/ retrieve/ refit the damned grommet? Anyway, onto the current issue.......the passenger carpet got wetter than I realised and although the ECU/ alarm unit seems positioned high enough away from the floor under the seat and is not covered with the carpet, I'm guessing that this has caused the problem that I have now. I.E. The central locking won't work now and only the drivers door can be locked with the key, plus the battery drains completely overnight. I took out both the passenger seat and the carpet to have a look, but although there was some water (not that much as there is a small hole drilled in one corner acting as a drain!), the ECU/ alarm unit appeared to be dry. Having tried to find a solution on various forums/ searches, I haven't seen this fault replcated or explained anywhere else, although my thinking is that it is actually the ECU which is the problem due to moisture ingress? Anyone know if I'm right and if it is the ECU, what's the best solution please, repair (how?) or replace? I've read some stuff about a reprogramming issue with new units? Any help much appreciated. Cheers, Tony
  17. My door locks only work part of the time. At other times, they will click on and off randomly, like when I'm driving, going over bumpy sections of road, or sitting at a red light. I bought the car about a month ago and the guy said the passenger door lock mechanism was faulty, but they both have the same problem. I had to disconnect my alarm horn because it would go off at the same random times the locks acted up. Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot and/or repair this?
  18. Hi I'm a new owner of a 99 C4 and have been experiencing nuisance alarms. The car can be sitting in the driveway for 24 hrs plus when for no apparent reason the alarm goes off. Unlocking and re-locking shuts it off (of course). I usually get no beeps when locking, sometimes 1 but never 2. Any suggestions anyone? Is there any way to shut the alarm off? Thanks Ross
  19. Hi, I need urgent advice please, I have a Porsche Carrera 4 911 996 2001, water has been found underneath seat where control alarmbox is situated labelled M535, Part Number: 996.618.262.01, and it is quite serious as the water created an electrical fire that melted control unit. The wires seem slightly corroded and the car will not start. Dash lights illuminate and I have disconnect Control Box. The door has a clicking noise and will not open. I understand I need to have control box M535 changed that needs to be coded to new key form but curious as to your thoughts to the following: 1) Cost in replacing with new control unit and wiring loom? 2) How far does the wiring loom run if needs full replacement? Interested in your suggestions and projected cost in fixing the above.
  20. hi! I've had some problems with my 996 turbo 2001.. the alarm sets off on it's own.. I've installed a original cd/radio player, and changed the Alarm Control unit. After this was done, the beep from the horn disappeared, no problems with the alarm starting on it's own.. about a week later, once again the alarm went off.. what I've discoverd later on, is that I had several mice in the car, the basterds are now all dead :-) so, can mice set of the alarm? I guess there is a motion senor inside the car? Kenneth
  21. Please help, After thoroughly searching for someone who has had this issue, I am still lost. Vehicle is a 2000 Boxster 2.7, 5 speed manual. Vehicle has factory Becker radio with tape deck. CDR 220 I believe. I have replaced the ignition switch as recommended for similar problems, but there were no changes First, the vehicle will sometimes not crank when turned to the starter position. It takes multiple turns and sometimes even locking and unlocking the vehicle before it will start (acts like clutch is not depressed when trying to start). It seems to be happening more often and I am afraid it may not work at all in the near future. It is not the battery. Electrical connections to battery are good. I thought possibly the clutch switch but it does not seem to have any effect on it from what I can tell. All fuses look good. Radio fuse in footwell fuse box was blown but I replaced it. Secondly, the Radio does not turn off or on when key is turn to ON position. This happens 100% of the time. The radio can be turned on with the On button in the same way that it can be with no key in the switch. It has to be manually turned off or else it will play continuously. Even if the vehicle is locked. The red LED flashes when the unit is off and the vehicle is running. More pertinent information, All of this started happening after I removed the factory head unit temporarily. I have read different things online as what to do with the brown/blue wire that senses the radio in the dash. Some people say ground it out, others say to tape it off (no ground?). I cannot tell if it makes it act differently if it is grounded, but I may not be getting a good ground (short wire in dash)... Wire cannot be reconnected as originally was. Horn honks once after locking (I figure this is because of the radio security wire) and dash led blinks twice in rapid succession continuously. What should I do with this wire? Why would this affect the ON and OFF of the radio when the ignition switch is turned? Is this linked to the starting issue? I think it may have done the starting problems a couple times before removing the head unit, but I am not positive. It has definitely gotten substantially worse since about the exact same time though. I have already replaced the ignition switch. Also, can I disable the clutch switch entirely or will that not allow the cruise control system to function? Please help!!! Thank you all. The boxster community is amazing!
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