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Showing results for tags 'brakes'.
Found 18 results
Does anyone know how to disassemble the Lucas Master Cylinder installed on a 2002 996 C4 I have removed the large circlip and the cotter pin, but can't get the piston out even with pulling. There is a plastic cover at the back of the cylinder which looks like it is a push fit, but this doesn't want to move and is quite brittle plastic so I don't want to break it. This could be threaded and therefore needs to be unscrewed to remove, but there are no lugs or holes which could be used with a tool to enable it to be turned. Grateful for any advice.
I have Suddenly overnight got a droning sound from my Boxster 986 s 2003. Its not the engine because the sound doesn't change if you put the car in neutral and let idle or rev it theres no change. However if you let the car coast along and turn engine off, you still hear the droning wining sound. Its happened so quickly rather than built up slowly I am wondering if it could be the handbrake shoes gone adrift perhaps. Any body else had this?
I was troubleshooting code P2189, undo some vacuum line to test for leaks ... this is a different issue all together. I mentioned it because I unhooked vacuum lines. I reconnected everything (hoses), I did not start the engine because I was still working on it. My engine was running fine for weeks even with P2189 - not rough like some mentioned! Two days later, In the morning, I used the car to do errands, I drove for about 10 minutes. At the stop sign, I stepped on the brake, the car won't stop like it used to! It rolled slowly and then stopped. It's like taking a much much longer distant to stop. I did not see anything abnormal on the dashboard except for the CE for the P2189 code! no smell of anything. I continued to drive the car at the normal speed (35 mile/hr) but kept a large distance from the car in front. About 10 minutes later, the brake felt normal like nothing had happened. I drove for another 10 minutes to reach my destination. 2 hours later, jumped in the car to drive home, the brakes felt normal. About 2 minutes the PSM light came on, brakes are still OK. 5 minutes later I pulled into the bank, turned off the engine for couple minutes then restarted the engine, the PSM light is OFF, the brake is normal... I drove home. Now, where do I start troubleshoot the brakes and the PSM light? I don't have the Durametric tool. Or must I have the Durametric to troubleshoot? can I rent one from someone? Your help is needed. Thank you in advance for your assistance. Man N
I am a member of the PCA and have changed brake pads numerous times on 5 different 911's totaling more than I can count on both hands. Does anyone know what the part numbers are for doing a break change (pads, rotors, sensors) on a 2008 Cayenne S VIN: WP1AB29P58LA50752 Thanks Rob
I have an 03 Boxster with 95k on the clock. When you first start driving the car, everything is tight and quiet. After about 25 - 30 miles, the front start to knock lightly and rumble. Most noticeable between 0 and 30mph in queuing traffic. You can feel the knocks on the steering wheel and brake pedal. The further you go the worse it gets. The sound is like a bolt being jarred in a plastic bottle. Up to now it has had new bake disks and pads. Track rod ends and wishbones replaced and something That looks like coffin struts changed. Wheels and tyres have been checked. When the knocking started, the brake warning light came on. The front sensors have been changed so the warning lights don't come on when the knocking starts. I am not mechanically minded but In my mind its a brake problem as the issue only shows up after driving for about 30 miles and things are starting to warm up. The garage cannot identify the issue and have run out of ideas. Can anyone suggest or identify the problem as I have been replacing bits without success
I am almost there with the Brake job on my project. One problem though. How do I connect the hard brake line to the caliper? I have connected the soft brake hose line from the hard line coming from the master cylinder area. However the hard brake line (small curved piece with red cap) doesn't seem to line up to the connector on the caliper. Do I bend it and make it fit or is there an actual part to order. Here are some pics. I tried to find good steel lines but have been having a hard time finding some blue ones.
I need some help with this. I wanted to replace all 4 corners with EBC pads and rotors but what I found out is my car has 360mm rotors. There is a large selection of 350mm and 380mm rotors but the 360mm rotors are hard to come by in a aftermarket performance series brake rotor. Does anyone have any experience with this and what products did they wind up purchasing. Thank in advance for any suggestions
Hi All, I was doing a brake flush on my 2005 Carrera 997.1 and got through 3 of the 4 brake lines flushed. When I got to the front left side which is the last in the order, the bleeder screw on the caliper is stripped. The 11mm wrench just moves freely on it. Anyone deal with a stripped bleeder screw before? What are my options? Do I just need to take it to the shop? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Im sure this question has been asked before but wondering if anyone could help me. I need to replace my rear brake rotors and pads. The dealer told me there is about a MM before the sensors go off. The price from the dealer is $1100.00 which seems pretty high to replace pads and rotors. I have been checking around and see there are different size rotors based on the model and options. I have a S with silver calipers which I believe is the standard braking setup. What pads and rotors should I use, I drive pretty hard and would like something with a little more grabbing power. Also would I need to change the fronts to match the rear or could I change them when needed? Should I just stick with the stock ones? Why does the brake fluid need to be changed? New to Porsche but have had BMW and Audi and don't remember the brake fluid being a big deal? Thanks for the help
All, Since the Feds have determined (in their infinite wisdom) that blue brake fluid makes it too hard to ensure one doesn't put Washer Fluid in the Brake Reservoir or vice-versa, what is a good way to ensure brake fluid is fully replaced when it is the same color? Can you go by volume of fluid pushed out of the caliper? Is there a way to dye the gold fluid without messing up the boiling point? Thanks for the help; I have blue in the car now and one can of blue left so I have 2 changes worth, but my friends who I help regularly are stuck...
so I just had complete pads, rotors and sensors- front & rear- replaced on my 08 CTT (44K miles). The brake sensor light had gone on and I had been driving with some major squeaky brakes for a looooong time (probably 1.5 years+) So I am thinking, boy, I cant wait to get new brakes and get rid of the squeaking. However, here I am posting this (after doing a forum search)- 500 miles after new brakes installed- crying about font brake squealing. The squealing occurs just when I come to a complete stop; just as I go from 5mph to stop. And its not a simple squeal. Its loud (and it sounds different from my squeaking brakes before the job was done.) I actually get embarrased when I am in traffic. So here's my question: before I drive back to my indie shop who did the work, what do I need to consider? is it the pads? rotors? what is the culprit? the repair guy did tell me that squeaky brakes may not be completely silenced after the brake job but this is ridiculous....I'm at my wits end right now. I could use some solid advice.
Hello does anyone have recommendations on Brake rotor and pads for a 2004 TT ? I recently put ATE rotors and Hawk Performance HB512Y.605 LTS Brake Pads on my Touareg. I know the Touareg used 330 mm on the front and the Cayenne is 350 front and 330 rear. I want to upgrade the brakes that are on this Turbo to something like i did with the VW and am looking for recommendations. Thanks for your help....Dan
I have a 99 Boxster and the brake pedal keeps sticking down and I have to lift it back up with my foot. My thought is that the master brake cylinder needs rebuilt or replaced. (I can't find a rebuild kit for it.) I would like to know if anyone else has had this problem and what fixed it or if anyone has any suggestions. Thanks in advance.
Job has been more than this 'amateur' had bargained for. Just completed rear rotors and pads on my 03 Cayenne S. First wheel, difficult for all sorts of reasons, second wheel a breeze. HOWEVER, the first wheel (right rear) has a horrible noise coming from it as I drive... I thought it was the parking brakes engaged too much. I readjusted the parking brake to virtually open, and the sound is still there. So then I thought maybe the metal cover behind the rotor was rubbing - I checked it out and doesn't appear to be an issue. So, when I pulled the old rotor off, the parking brakes were tight. I hadn't loosened them enough and essentially then just muscled it off. I then 'clicked' them completely loose, and putting the new rotor on was a breeze. I also checked everything out - the three spring clips that hold them were all in tact and it didn't appear I caused any problems. However, could this have done something? Anyway, I am about to just give up and take it in to really pay for my errors... unless anyone has any ideas? Amateur Ken.
This is such a 'rookie' question, but I just started the job of replacing rear rotors and pads on my 03 Cayenne S. I haven't replaced even the pads on the back in at least 5 years... and the dang pin (with the cotter key) is CEMENTED in there. I have scraped, WD40'ed (maybe a no-no?) banged, hammered, and sledged on the thing and it won't spin or move at all. I've been at it for (no joke) a couple hours! I know perseverance is a virtue when working on cars, but this is plain frustrating! Anybody have any magical tips? I've never had this type problem before. I thought maybe something was putting tension on it, and I've clicked the emergency brake over, made sure the clips weren't too tight, scraped and scraped! Any idea or method is welcomed. Thanks, Ken
I thought I would compile this information especially for those new to the forum and Porsche Cayenne, to make it easier to have the info needed. Hope it helps. If anyone notices mistakes, please let me know and I will correct asap (got this info from service manuals).
Hey Guy's (and Gals) I've got a teaser for you. Does any one have any experience with loose relays, shorts, or other electrical malfunctions that might be the root cause of my horn sounding when stepping on the brakes? So its not all the time, and it seems to be contingent on forward braking momentum; - Light to normal braking the horn does not squeek or sound - Moderate braking the horn will chirp, akin to brushing wires together to make an intermittent connection - Heaving breaking, the horn just blasts. I'm a little more aware about paying attention in traffic now...nothing more embarrasing that slowing down for a traffic light while surrounded by traffic in all lanes, and the horn blares. Gotta love tinted windows. Any commentary would be appreciated! Thanks, Harry
Hi. I own a 996 Turbo MY02 car. The previous owner installed R19 Cargraphic rims along with Brembo 355mm (14in) brake system. Now, the rubber is very old and I think I have to throw it away. For winter (I do have another winter car, but just don't wanna give up Porsche for winter!) I bought Techart R18 rims with winter tires - paid around $2000 which I think is a great deal, tires are in great condition. However, I never realised the brakes only fit R19 rims. Of course when I tried to put on the new wheels, they would not fit. Now, here is the question. Am I better off selling the winter wheels (which I don't wanna do since I love them and I think I got a great deal on them) or maybe downgrading the brakes to stock 13in Brembos? (Turbo 996 is equipped with Brembo stock brakes, am I right?). I also don't really like the look of R19 wheels, think there's too little rubber in them, if you know what I mean... Also, I read somewhere that 14in brakes for this car are a bit extreme and only needed for track racing, well my car isn't really a track car: automatic transmission and 4WD isn't too much "track". Yet, selling the cool brakes that I got for free from the previous owner, I feel like selling my kidney... ;) What do you say, guys? Thanks! p.s. This is all happening in Russia, Moscow and I'm Russian. ;) I can buy stuff off ebay if they ship worldwide. I found a complete set of Turbo 996 brakes for around $1800. Sound like a fair price?