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Showing results for tags 'clutch'.
Found 20 results
2006 C2S, All highway driving. From past experience with my cars, I know that I am gentle on my clutch/trani. 108,000 miles on original clutch. Pedal travel is still 2.5-3.0 inches from floor to start of engagement. I do not think that pedal effort has increased. Am I on borrowed time? Thoughts? Thanks in advance. Johan
Hi Guys, Aircraft engine Tech, currently replacing the clutch on my AutoX 1999 996 C2, first time tackling a clutch/IMS job. While the clutch & Pressure plate are worn out, I inspected the flywheel, based on Porsche's TSB 911 8/02 1360, & found it to be a bit worn, but serviceable. Common knowledge suggest to replace the flywheel every second clutch change or every 100K miles. Considering the high price of the flywheel, is it Worth it to replace it right now or I can expect it to last until the next clutch change?
Hi All, Please forgive me if I'm repeating a post. I've looked for a solution to my issue fairly thoroughly and both online or in person I have found little information on the subject specific to the automobile or mostly dismissive answers to the question: "What, if any component or piece of the transmission/clutch system governs the engagement point as it relates to pedal travel?" The car is a 2003 TT and when I had the cooling tubes pinned I had a stage 2 clutch installed. When I first bought the car I thought that the pedal "caught" high in comparison to our 2001 C4 and 2003 C2, I wanted to simply lower the progression and I expected the 600+ HP rated clutch to be heavier. In effect this all had the exact opposite effect. The clutch catches extremely high through about three degrees of pedal travel. Does anyone out there know enough about this system to perhaps comment on the situation? I am suspecting the springs govern the progression. But then what governs the spot where engagement begins? I would find the car far easier to drive if it could be moved closer to the floor. Right now I have to physically bend my knee to release the clutch and with so little progression it's actually hard to drive smoothly. I can honestly say I wouldn't buy it if I test drove it like it is now. Biggest mistake I ever made with a car. Any information or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Looking for your help? I just did a complete clutch replacement on my 2003 Boxster. After getting the engine and transmission in and completely bleeding the clutch hydraulics 3 time, my clutch pedal sticks after depressing especially at higher rpms. Did something else break in the process? Thank you for your responses.
I recently bought a 2005 Boxster S with 76,000km (47,000 miles). The used car dealer said the cluch had been slipping and smelling, and that he replaced it with a new clutch before selling the car to me. This is my first Porsche, so I have no past experience to tell me what the clutch is supposed to feel like. But when I took it to a Porsche centre for service they told me that it picks up too low in the pedal travel. They also said it's slipping, which must be fairly slight because I can't sense it at all. So I went back to the used car dealer to get it fixed under warranty, and they asked me to come back in January "to show them the problem". So here's my question: assuming there is something wrong, as the Porsche centre says, how can I prove it to a sceptical used car dealer?
2007 Carrera 4S with 32k miles. Normally, the clutch grabs ("grabs=friction point") at about halfway from the floor. Just the other day, for the first time, the clutch grabbed only about 2 inches from the floor and it's very difficult to shift into 1st and reverse from a stop. It's been doing this ever since. I have searched the forums for a similar issue and it sounds like the clutch. However, I can't seem to find anyone who's clutch grabs so low.......the clutch engages almost immediately when you start to release your foot off the clutch pedal. Anybody else have this issue? Air in the line? Slave cylinder?
Hi, I have 04 996 turbo: I was driving few days ago, going about 20 miles when suddenly I hear a noise like asnap and then my clutch when to the floor. I pull the clutch up manually then I notice the clutch is very very hard. I push it down hard once and it stayed down again. I was able to start the car but I can not engage into any gear. I had the car towed home inspect any fluid leak, non. I inspected the front clutch reservoir, no overflow. but what I noticed today that my slave cylinder is very loose. you can move it freely up and down feels like some thinking broke. Can it be the fork? or is the throw out bearing. or can it be the slave got disengage from fork and should be place back . is it something that I can do beside clutch and transmission removal. I would highly appreciate any advice, or suggestion.
My 90K mile DD 2001 S is presenting a mystery symptom that the search function hasn't been able to help me solve. My reasonably new clutch, pressure plate, and throw-out bearing feel great at civil RPMs - very consistent pressure and engagement. However the clutch pressure gets noticeably lighter just before engagement when shifting above 5K RPMs. When I push in, it's firm. Then about halfway through its return journey, it gets soft. The gear shift remains smooth, I can control the engagement with the flywheel, and there's no slipping. Everything seems to be working, but something is changing and I don't know what. The transmission does have the modified 2nd gear detent, but I can't imagine how that could play a role. My guess is that the mounts - engine, transmission, or maybe both - are the culprits. But I am not getting the other telltale symptoms of rotten rubber. At this point, it's not a problem but I'd like to hear some theories before something goes pop. Thanks! AK in VA
Car is 996 Carrera, 2004, 3.6L, 85t miles. Please have a look at the picture. I suspect that the clutch has been changed at least once on this car. Measurements for the discs are 2.98mm and 2.89mm. Marks on disc 1 are clearly visible, on disc 2 some of them are not perfect anymore. Would anyone happen to know what width the original discs have and what is the minimum width before change is required? It would be nice to know how long due is this clutch before I reinstall my tranny and engine back to my car. This clutch disc is identified as 997-116-013-13. Good quality images here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6v7k6w2trilayhd/yzH4BkI4BU Thank you!
2000 base 5sp, 95,000 mi. Removed the slave cilynder after finding a puddle of brake fluid under the car, dripping from the bellhousing. Inspecting the part I found that the plastic tabs the cap / seal retainer (original Sachs part, all plastic) are broken and allow the piston and seal retainer to slide out of the cilynder. This can happen if the clutch arm is cracked allowing the piston to overextend and break the retaining tabs, it was hard to disingage the clutch a few days before. I've seen pictures of this here and on other fourums, I am reluctant to brake a new slave cyl. I bought. What do the expert think about this?
Hi everyone, my 99 C2 runs strong except for a couple of concerns. First, I have a cold start chain clatter that I will address with new tensioners (eventually). Since I have owned the car however, I have an intermittent "whooping" sound when I engage the clutch. It seems to happen more if the car is rather warm. The clutch does not seem to slip and like I said, the car runs strong. I am thinking that it is a sound related to the release bearing and nothing to get too screwed up about. Any thoughts from the community?
Hello all. I did something wrong and maybe you know what. I just did a bunch of things with the trans out including replacing the clutch and updating the release lever and associated hardware. When I fired it up it made a nasty grinding sound which went away when I released the clutch. It returns whenever I push the pedal past about 1/2 way. The spring feedback on the pedal is different from before but not unnatural. My suspicion is that the release lever is not sitting on the ball properly (or not at all), but the other end seemed to be in the right place to accept the slave cyl pushrod so I thought all was well. I did read something about using tape to hold something in position but didn't do this and the Bentley manual doesn't mention it. Any suggestions? It is on axle stands on a 4 post lift in case that makes it possible to do something to narrow it down. Thanks
Hi All, I've had my 01 996 C4 for maybe 4 months now, maybe this was happening before but I've only really noticed it now. Firstly, my clutch pedal creaks when I depress it. I did a search and I found people had to either replace the spring or the pressure accumulator. But also, I'm finding it really hard to shift into 2nd gear smoothly. In high or low revs from 1st, if I engage quickly into 2nd, there's a bit of a "bump". Not quite a bronco type feeling, but something of that sort. The only way I can go smoothly into 2nd, is if i release the clutch slower. I can tell that burns the clutch a bit but engaging quickly feels like its hurting the car more. Is the Clutch pedal problem related to this? or Do I need to learn how to drive a P-car properly? lol, I've driven standard japanese cars my whole life before this. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
I just picked up my 2005 911 Carrera from the shop; had them change the gear oil. On the way home (it was raining/I was driving conservatively) the computer started displaying a message about being careful with the clutch. Is this normal after a gear oil change? Seemed to go away as I got close to home and I haven't driven it again to see if it will come back. Wasn't able to find any forum entries on this message. Thanks in advance.
2000, C4 Cab Help! I was just patting myself on the back after getting the transmission back in and only had the sway bar and wheels to refit. Decided to check the clutch felt right and unfortunately it doesn't. The pedal is really soft and the clutch doesnt disengage. I didn't open any hydraulic lines but could this just be air? Or do I need to drop the transmission again to check what's wrong inside? If I take the slave cycliner off can I gently press the clutch pedal to see if it drives the slave? As far as I can tell everything went back together OK so I'm stuck...
Hey guys, I think it's time to replace my clutch. Its been slipping pretty bad and I'm doing my best to drive it very gently or not at all. Its a 986 2.5L manual transmission. I've read up on pelican the whole DIY and parts list. I just wanted to see what clutch kit you all would suggest? Also, should I plan on replacing my flywheel? Any suggestions or words of advice would be VERY much appreciated. First time doing a clutch replacement 8)
So the other night I was talked into letting my girlfriends brother drive my 99 boxster 2.5l. To say the least, im preatty sure he burned up my clutch. I could smell it and I could tell by the way he was letting it out so slowly. Well when I got back in the driver's seat I realized the car seemed to be shuttering or hesitating whenever i would give it more than minimal gas needed for acceleration. Usually it happens right around 3k rpms. I was assuming that it was the clutch starting to go.. I looked around on pelican and some other forums and would probably end up doing the clutch myself if it came to it. But I guess Im just wondering if there is something else that may be going on? Does something need to be adjusted? Replaced? Any help or pointers are greatly appreciated. 99 Boxster Base 97k Miles 2.7 liter 5 Speed
Greetings, I have an '06 Manual Transmission Cayenne with 63,000 miles. I took the vehicle to the dealer when the clutch pedal suddenly lost pressure while I was driving. After checking it out, the dealer reported that all the fluid somehow escaped the clutch assembly. A worn or otherwise damaged bearing is suspected. Parts and labor will be roughly $4,000.00 to replace the entire clutch kit. Does anyone have any insights from having had a similar experience? Based on my driving history with other manual transmissions, I expected to get to at least 100,000 miles with this vehicle before replacing the clutch. Thanks in advance for your comments. -El
I have been having trouble with a clutch issue involving a constant noise from the bell housing area. I have posted here before about this but all previous suggestions have been tried without success. I am attaching an audio recording of the noise, which comes on after the car warms up and is idling in neutral, and goes away when the clutch is depressed. This has been a frustrating process since I have so far spent more than $5000 on trying to fix this issue. The car runs great, but ignoring the noise in the past eventually led to a clutch failure. I have had the clutch kit, flywheel, and throwout bearings fixed about 3 times each by both the dealer and a well-reputed indy. Could this be an issue with the slave cylinder for the clutch? None of this is making any sense. 996 bellhousing noise 1.mp3