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Found 24 results

  1. Tried googeleing it but couldn’t find what I was after. Was curious if anyone knows what type of flat 6 the 986 boxster has? Is it a a true boxer engine? Or a horizontally opposed flat V? True boxer meaning it has individual crank pins for each piston and is a true 180degree angle. Thanks in advance
  2. I hate my pig but I love my pig, can anyone please help me before I send it for scrap. Over the space of the last 4 years of ownership my car has been in the Porsche dealers for 2 years in total with suspension problems, to cut a long story short this is now sorted and was due to a faulty replacement air bag being fitted. Moving on after 3 months of (almost) trouble free motoring this is what’s happening now and would love some advice as the closest porsche dealers is over 200 miles away from me. When I picked up the car from Porsche it ran out of petrol before I got to the garage at the end of the road and although I filled it up it the engine warning light remained on I assumed this was just fuel related and drove home with it on and reset it when I got home. Wind on a few weeks and the engine light came back on and gave me a camshaft position sensor error p0016 so I sent the car to my local Porsche mechanic who changed out the sensor and did a full service on the car including plugs filter oil etc etc. All this time the car has been running fine but as I wanted the sensor light out it was changed. However after changing it out the light came back on almost straight away. The car has been a bit sluggish to start sometimes and sometimes on pulling away from a stop has also been hesitant. This was about 3-4 weeks ago and now it is worse again, at tickover it’s noisy, it doesn’t like acceleration and is running really rough although if you are going over 50mph it doesn’t have a problem and seems to run fine. The EML is now flashing rather than being a solid light. I attach a video of it running. Any thoughts would be a help before I decide to get it hauled back across again Sent from my iPhone
  3. Hello there, this is my first post here and I’m writing because of problem with my boxster. Today in the morning I’ve started my 2002 boxster and noticed strange sounds from the engine/ rear side of the car It’s a metallic, grinding sound like a loose piece of metal or something like that Sound disappears when you press gas and comes back once you loose the pedal, I don’t know if it changes while engine is warm Also, check engine light shown up yesterday, when I connected my BT OBD2 there was no error code. I came with that to workshop also, and they said it’s a catalyst efficiency error. I’ve had that error code a while ago, I’ve replaced mass air flow meter and check engine light disappeared. I think it might be a problem with maf again because I bought not the cheaper, not the original one, but why are there these strange sounds? I’m worried about this. Could it be catalyst this time? Or again should I replace maf? This time I’ll buy original one. here are two Videos I made Also I’m sorry if you can’t understand something, my english is not perfect. Thank you for all replies, I hope we will solve that problem together
  4. Two problems which may be connected 1) Car starts first couple of turns most of the time.......then sometimes wont start for 5 or 6 seconds of churning.....doesnt seem to matter if its hot or cold...... 2) at low revs ( below 2300) the engine seems to "hunt" and revs up and down about 200 rpm. It makes it very uncomfortable in traffic. Had it tested static and driving and no fault codes for either problem. Any suggestions much appreciated.
  5. Just posted a docu. on my completed 02 996 M96 3.6 l engine rebuild for a gorgeous C4 cab barn find, I bough back in August 17 as roller with complete engine (Head&Case failure). http://ow.ly/SjDf30fJkID It is not about performance upgrades or how it should be done. Is about the process to get it done with very details on the critical steps for the hands-on engineer. The car drives fantastic now, and if it breaks I will be confidently enough to spend the needed money and time to order on the new hard parts (Nickies, rods, heads, etc.... For now I did not spend anything other than on a high-mileage used 997.1 donor engine and a couple of 996 cases with paired pistons/rings from engines with other type of failures). I wish I had an alike docu. when I started - so I share it here, and hopefully it is useful for someone who wants to bring a M96 996 3-chain engine back to life .
  6. Hi guys, I’m writing from Italy, owner of a 2000 986 S, 84.000 km on the clock. First of all, I have to apologize for my poor English. Recently I had my cluster bulbs replaced thanks to the good DIY guides found over here, so, thank you so much for helping us all with your knowledge and patience. In order to do the job, since my car features the optional alarm, I previously disconnected the negative cable of the battery while leaving the ignition key on position 2 as read on the board in order to avoid the siren to scream (is this correct, BTW?). With the cluster back in place, without touching the key nor the gas pedal, I connected the negative cable and found everything was fine, then I waited for a few minutes with the key still in position 2 thus letting the e-pedal to reset itself, and eventually removed the key and left the place. Two days later I picked the car up but the engine was really strange at idle. No fault lights on the cluster but no power at all, it hardly reached 1600 – 1900 RPM with the aircon switched off even if I floored the pedal. The whole car shaked violently but the engine didn’t stall. If I pushed on the gas pedal, it revved a little making a smoother noise and behaving normal, but just up to 1600 – 1900 RPM. It seemed there was something at work avoiding the engine to rev. Tried several times to do the 1-minute procedure, tried to fire it up and swich it off a million times, then called the local PD but received nothing but a “shame on you for having disconnected the battery”. Called an indi whose suggestion was to blindly replace the MAF (...even though the problem was showing itself at idling and not over 4000 RPM). Eventually phoned another indi; this nice chap came, attached a small diagnostic device to my car and told me there were no error codes displayed. After half an hour the engine got warm and everything was perfectly normal, so he invited me to drive the car for some thirty minutes and so I did. Problem is, though, yesterday the issue came back again and didn’t go away even after a million 1-minute procedures, dozens of key-on-0-to-key-on-2. I haven’t got access to a Durametric. When I set the key on position 2 I hear a very low “buzz” which goes on forever, until I fire the engine. I’ve got a GPS from my Insurance Company on the positive pole which I cannot remove. What do you suggest? I’m really struggling… Shall I disconnect the negative cable and leave it aside for a few days, as read over here? What must I do when disconnecting the battery in order to avoid the alarm to wake everybody up? Thank you in advance for your help, I really need it! Cheers, G. P.S. If you reckon it would help, I can record the engine noise and attach a file...
  7. Well so i just noticed something weird. I parked the car after driving it for 15 to 20 mins and left it running while i went to get the mail, and when i come back I noticed that 3 out of the 4 pipes where smoking nicely but one was not quite as strong. I put my hand on the one that was not as strong as the others to make sure smoke was coming out, and notice the small amount of smoke coming out was cool! I then place my hand near the others and the smoke was hot as hell! What should I do, I am sure that is not normal! The car drives awesome, very strong, but i am sure that is not a good sign. The one all the way to the right is the problematic one. i bought a durametric and i will run it and show the results here, but any idea will be appreciated.
  8. Hi, I'd like to ask a question that has been asked, discussed, youtube videoed etc... My apologies, but I've read most of them and haven't found anything similar. I'm looking at a 2004-2006 Cayenne Turbo that I don't want to turn into an engine money pit. I've listened to 8, all cold and most have a very slight knock on the drivers side of the engine. I'm wondering if this is the beginning to the end or some explainable sound. You can only hear it once it drops to a low idle. I went to my local dealer in Denver and they stated they have no way to diagnose, would not perform a new car inspection, but would do a compression check. I realize this is tough to know when the dreaded engine knock may come due to extreme cold, piston expansion, etc...etc... I'm also aware that the turbos were less prone. If I'm going to drop a new engine into an old cayenne, I'd rather do it on a $10k one than $18k which is the present range for a 2004-2005 in CO. Thanks for anyone's help and as a newbie, I hope to purchase a Cayenne and give back via DIY but don't really want to deal with engine issues for 200k+. Thanks again, Frank
  9. Does anyone know if the 4.5 non turbo is the same assembly, to install and set up as a non turbo 955? Am looking to replace the engine and figure the turbo engine with hardened cylinders, would be good to prevent cold start issues. Thanks,
  10. Well, I have an engine that needs to be worked on. However it is on the floor and I need it to be on the engine stand. How do I go about strapping this thing down so I can move it ??
  11. Hi! I have a 2010 Panamera 4.8l tt that I bought because it had a water damaged engine. Tear down is complete, and I have the parts that need machining at Patterson Elite (http://www.patterson-elite.com). Although I just dropped the parts off today, by this afternoon Todd Patterson had a challenge for me. The block is one solid piece of aluminum (so it seems), therefore the cylinder walls are aluminum and do not appear to be sleeved currently. The water damage bent a rod and the result was a scored cylinder, so the challenge is...how do we machine this cylinder? It seems if we follow the standard boring process, when the new pistons and rings go in, the rings will severely score the newly machined cylinder. Does anyone have any idea how they built these cylinders at the factory and if this engine can even be machined? Thanks!
  12. 2001 996 47K miles. The engine temperature or coolant temperature needle has always sat on the 8 (180), once when i did a long 3 hr drive it drifted to then end of the zero, but it was a 3 hr drive on a 90degree day, but no big deal, that was 3 yrs ago. It has always sat on the 8. I noticed recently during city driving in about 15 mins, the needle starts to drift to the end of the the zero, and when its on the highway for a few minutes it would lower back into the beginning of the zero, but never back onto the 8. No leaks under the car, i see no signs of coolant in the engine, nor do i smell coolant dripping onto hot parts. My question is is this a precursor for something failing? Anything i can check? Any advice appreciated.
  13. Iv recently purchased a Porsche 966 C4S with 55k miles with a rear end wreck, it had sat for at least 2 months with out a proper start up. upon arrival i did an inspection, it had a few pulleys bent including the tensioner pulley so i can't necessarily run the serpentine belt with out removing the engine and replacing it, air box was broken so it had to be removed including the mass airflow sensor. exhaust was untouched. no damage to the block. after preparing it i started the car for the first time, it ran good i listened in no ticks or knocks everything was running fine ( it ran with out a serpentine belt nor a air box/mass airflow sensor) i ran it for a few minutes then it started to have a slight tick and gradually increased to a steady ticking, i ran a OBD2 test for fault codes, the only codes i got was a mass airflow sensor fault and the throttle body code, other than that no other codes. i read around online i should replace the oil, because it could have been a stuck lifter or sticking valves. i changed the oil with 5w40 and added a valve cleaner to my gas, ran it a a few times for a few minutes at a time not to over heat my engine, at the moment i don't know if this may fix the problem because i can't necessarily drive the car, if any one can tell me if I'm at risk of loosing my engine if i do fix the engine up drive it around, or i should fix it up and take it for a drive and it may go away. or i should just take it straight to a mechanic. Please let me know your thoughts.
  14. I need YOUR help! This could be our worst nightmare as Cayenne owners...I am hoping im wrong. I should mention I am very mechanical (Master level weekend wrench turner, not professional). The bullet points of the scenario: 2008 Cayenne GTS, 98K,Manual Transmission, well maintained, in excellent shape and runs (or ran) flawlessly. 1. Thought battery was going dead due to engine not turning over quickly. 2. Replaced battery, Engine did not make any change... in fact, was getting worse. Would barely turn even a little bit. 3. Hooked up battery to charger to be 100%, no change. The battery would nearly drain completely after a few turns of the key. 4. Replaced starter with new Bosch. Replaced plugs for maintenance. 5. Absolutely no change. The car clicks, tries to turnover, it wont budge. Battery drains very quickly after a few tries. No major codes on Durametric. Although maybe I am looking in the wrong place. I can only surmise the worst case scenario. Please, any insight or help would be greatly appreciated.
  15. Hi, I have a 2008 Porsche Cayenne with a a CEL for P2404. The car runs completely normal and this is the only check engine light code. The only information I found on this is: P2404 Evaporative Emission System Leak Detection Pump Sense Circuit Range/Performance Possible cause of fault - Insufficient vacuum (system has a leak or blockage) - Short circuit to B+ in signal line - Leakage diagnosis pump faulty (diaphragm or reed switch sticks, internal solenoid valve stays closed or is blocked) -DME control module faulty I was wondering if there was anyone with a similar issue or anyone with knowledge of a reported fix. If not, I'm a pretty good DIYer. Does anyone know how I should go about diagnosing this?
  16. Hi Renntech Experts, Please pepper my situation with your wisdom... 2001 Boxster S 118,000 Kms LN ENGINEERING double row bearing installed 1 year ago last service: 105,000 kms minor mods e.g. pod filter and cold air intake A grinding noise started coming from the engine bay this morning while parking the car (warm engine, low rpm) I turned the car off just after it happened hoping it was nothing I came back 8 hours later, started the car and the noise was there from the start (recording is from inside) https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-lg21ZsNUmnSzFyQmpBd3lqS1k/edit?usp=sharing The noise changes sometimes (in a bad way), it gets higher pitched for a few rotations then goes back to normal, so maybe its a bearing. No noticeable change when I turn on the AC Please share the love if you can
  17. I have a '97 Boxster, with the base engine & 5 speed transmission. I have done several things to it in the past year attempting to fix missing/rough running issues; replaced the plugs, all the coil packs, MAF sensor, and the 2 front O2 sensors. Ran great for a few days this last time (one of the new coil packs went bad; reinstalled one of the old ones that I was pretty certain was still good and reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery). Now it has started doing something completely different; it has never done this before.... you can hold the RPM's at a steady 2k for instance, and the engine will rhythmically cut out for just a moment, just as if you had turned the engine off and then back on.... on, off, on, off, on, off and so on. The dash stays the same however, other than the RPM gauge following the revs. It started doing this for a few minutes (embarrassing when driving thru town), then stop, and then do it again the next day and stop, but now the issue seems here to stay. So far it hasn’t thrown a CEL. I sure would love to be able to drive it and enjoy being topless before the snow flies... any ideas?
  18. hi, Wich is the best option to buy a rebuld engine for a 1997 boxter 986 ... mine is a 2.7 need a 3.2
  19. I'm considering a Boxster project, and wondering if a 2.7L (2000) engine will fit in a 1999 Boxster body/frame. If so, any significant mods required? Thanks for the assist!
  20. We have updated the Porsche Approved Engine Oils TSBs for all cars.Our Contributing Members can read them online in the TSB section.
  21. (edited 17/May/2012 - changed from question to the procedure I followed) Hi Guys, In case you're ever in the same situation, below is the procedure I used for re-starting my 996 3.4L TIP following about 3 months elapsed of dashboard work where all of the following items were removed and now re-installed with the battery disconnected for the whole 3mths. Radio A/C Control Passenger Airbag Drivers Airbag Steering Wheel / Clock Spring Combination Switch Instrument Pod I broke the re-start into the following 3 steps which I've detailed below: Checks prior to starting engine Checks at engine start Checks post engine start You will need a Durametric code reader or similar for this procedure. 1. Checks prior to engine start Pre-condition - everything back together and battery fully charged and connected. Key at Accessory Position: Radio - enter the security code / test all functions Key at "ON" Position Perform DME adaption per workshop manual (WSM) procedure Passenger Airbag - read error codes/clear codes Drivers Airbag - read error codes/clear codes Steering Wheel - check horn operation Combination Switch - test turn signals, wipers Instrument Pod - test lamps and dial functions with Durametric Re-teach Power Window Stop Positions Re-teach Sunroof Stop Positions Set clock Read out all error codes from all controls units and clear codes Check for instrument warning lamps remaining on that shouldn't be 2. Checks at Engine Start Start Car: Remove the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine - to pre-circulate oil (I did 2 x 10 sec bursts with 20seconds in-between) Reinstall fuel pump fuse Start engine Check for instrument warning lamps remaining on that shouldn't be (I had only the spoiler and seat belt lamps remain on which is fine) Allow to idle for 5-10mins to warm engine and complete DME adaptation 3. Checks post Engine Start (Driving) Check spoiler light goes out once moving. Perform tiptronic adaptation per WSM procedure Steering Wheel / Clock Spring - check horn, and tip switch operation A/C Control - test all functions - cool and hot Combination Switch - test OBC and Cruise Check for any post driving error codes Luckily for me there were no problems and I'm now enjoying the driving once again. Thanks
  22. i'm looking at changing the rear main seal on my 2002 996 i have all the tools and access to a ramp,is this quite a straight forward job and is there any step by step guide to this job' i'm quite competant to do this job having worked fo a specialised mercedes benz truck dealer for the last 10 years.
  23. 99- 996 with trip. With the help of the forum (quick thank you) I was able to determine that I had a bad bearing/idler pully. I have removed the air box and am trying to determine: 1. the correct torque for the attaching bolt on the upper idler, and 2. does it require a specific spanner or wrench, or can i use a common open/box end? Also there was a great video (shows removal of box and how to on the tensioner) when I first looked at how to do this but I have since grown a few days older and cannot remember the search words i used. Any ideas? Thank you in advance for your help. Serg
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