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Showing results for tags 'oil'.
Found 18 results
I have a 2007 C2S manual with about 132K on the odometer. A low oil pressure light has started to show up at idle after the car is warmed up. It seems as if the light is gradually coming on more frequently. The pressure gage on the dash reads around 0.5 bar when the light comes on. When the car is cold the starting pressure is around five bar and is about 3 bar at 3000rpm. As it warms up the pressure drops to about 2 bar at 3000rpm. I always run 0-40W Mobil 1 and change the oil every 5K miles. With the engine off and turning the key one click the pressure gage rises to about 0.1-0.2 bar. Can anyone help me diagnose this issue? Would be a sensor or something mechanical?
Hey everyone, I am new on this forum. Was recommended to create a topic about my problem here. Its a Cayenne S V8 2011 petrol Recently noticed oil leaking from the front area (left side of the car). See the Picture:) Porsche workshop is not fully sure yet about exactly where its leaking from. They think its from the oil pan and to find the exact place or fix it, they will have to take motor out and as well gearbox as I understood. They have recommended me to drive it 1000km and come back again for the check-up. They say its coming somewhere from the oil pan, but coulld as well be from somewhere above the oilpan. Thought post it here, and check if someone have had this kind of problem on their 958 or know about it. It leaks only when the car is running. Thanks for all the help I can get:)
Basic Info 2002 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe C2 Manual 6 speed US So my friend and I started to the process of changing the IMS to the Solution and noticed while we were removing the second from the top left bolt of the transmission (facing the rear of the car) that there was a lot of corrosion. The bolt was very difficult to get out and actually took some of the threads with it. Once we removed the tranny we saw inside the housing of the tranny and the crank crystallized particles. It was also around the bolt that was tough to get out. After a closer look it appeared that the oil cooler had leaked antifreeze at some point which over time, seeped around the tranny/crank housing (did not enter the tranny though). It (the flakes) also was near where the cooler mount to the crank. This led us to belive that possibly the oil cooler is bad or going bad or possibly the oil cooler o-rings. Any ideas or comments? This is where I plan on getting the replacement parts. I can post some pics even if it would help.
After recently buying a 955 with the V8 which is whisper quiet with a full history, I decided it was a good idea to change the oil, filter and the plugs as it had only moved 400 miles in six months. The oil was a suggested Mobil 1 0w40 and the plugs are as identified by the reg plate. However, the Bosch super 4's that came out were R6 (resistance) and the BERU 4's were R5. ive not noticed a loss of power - but HAVE noticed a drop in my mpg figures. from 17-19 down to possibly 13-14. anybody else experienced this, the oil level is correct with a quality synthetic filter by K&N and the spark plugs were torqued to just on 22 ft/lbs. appreciate any feedback on your experiences.
For cars that have an oil dipstick, I have been thinking about designing an oil changer pump that will be like nothing else on the planet and will have the following features: 1. Of course you will not have to jack up the car as the oil will be extracted through dipstick hole. 2. Unlike other extractors on the market , this unit will not require a. An air compressor to operate b. Manual pumping to create suction c. The user to dump the oil, it is pumped directly into the recycle container 3. This unit is very small and easy to handle 4. Made in USA of machined aluminum NOT plastic 5. Can extract warm oil in 2-5 minutes depending on vehicle capacity 6. Does not require a battery, operates on your car’s 12 volt battery 7. Costs less than some people pay for an oil change 8. Anyone can easily use it from teens to non-mechanical persons to the elderly 9. Allows you to change your oil without jacking up your car in as little as 5 minutes. 10. Looks Awesome I billet aluminum or anodized blue Would you be interested in such a device? If enough people are interested I will engineer one like nothing currently in existence. Let me know.
Hi all, First of all I apologize if I do anything wrong since I only just created this account in order to ask this community a question. We own a Porsche 996 Targa 2002 and as we all know the 996 is prone to engine problems such as IMS and oil and coolant mixture. Today when I was checking if the engine still had enough oil and coolant and decided they needed a fillup I saw something that I did not really like. I've uploaded two pictures one of how the coolant looks and another picture of where you add the oil. Is the yellowish stuff you see ok or is this the first sign of the oil and coolant mixture? The car seems to run fine and never had any problems with engine temperature, hope you guys can help me out on this one! With kind regards, A somewhat nervous 996 owner.
I am the original owner of a '99 C2, black on black, approaching 60k miles. My Indy recomended oil change and filter, fuel filter, air filter, belt replacement, and it needed a battery. During plug removal, he discovered four or the six coils were cracked! One was pretty bad.; I'm surprised it ran that well. He could only get four Beru's on such short notice. Total damage with labor was less than $1,100, which I consider quite fair. Glad I brought it in, and I'll replace the other two when I get down to FL ( I hadn't been driving it much while it was stored in VA). A few minor leaks from the RMS and on the right side where some sort of sensor enters the engine, but nothing major. I haven't yet done RMS, AOS or IMS, and while I was there his Mercedes Indy friend called and we're discussing the Carrera. His words - get rid of it! Well, I am aware of these issues, maybe they are less so for the early 996s. But I will replace them along with the water pump and clutch at 75 k miles if I don't decide to upgrade to another 'play' car. My Porsche ownership has been wonderful, and I hope all you owners feel the same. Pure enjoyment, a blast on the twisty roads of the BlueRidge Mtns. If only I could get more than 8 k on a set of rear tires!!
While researching another problem with my Boxster, I noticed a company is advertising an oil fed intermediate shaft bearing kit, which seems to use a modified cover and a hose to feed oil to the intermediate shaft bearing.. the kit is here.. http://tunersmotorsports.com/?page_id=103 Has anyone installed it or know if it is any good? My old 986 Boxster had an upgraded IMS bearing installed when I bought the car, and I thought it was a worthwhile thing to do.. But was told the 987 needed an engine teardown to replace the bearing.. This kit seems to just feed engine oil into the bearing, which from what I have read would solve the problems with failure.. But really.. should this kit do the trick?
I recently purchased a 2008 Boxster S with 62000mi on it. It is a CPO I bought in NC so it passed the dealership's inspection. I live in Augusta GA and the nearest dealership is about an hour away making service a little bit of a pain. I have driven about 3500 miles and my oil level has gone from the center line to the low line. According to the manual I need to add about 0.4 liters to get it back to the center line. I do smell burning oil after I drive the car. It is not strong but it's there. There are no oil spots under the car in my garage. Is this normal or do I need to consider a service visit?
leonidasb22 posted a topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)I did an oil change on my 2004 996 Carrera using the correct amount of Porsche specified oil about 1,500 miles ago. Now after running and car and letting the oil settle back to the oil pan the dash computer level and dipstick are reading the same. The oil level is half way from the min/max levels. I know that the oil level is in the acceptable range now, but is considered having low oil? The reason why I am asking is because I brought my car to get diagnosed (and fixed) for a faulty oil pressure sending unit problem that occurs rarely when the dash warning pops up saying oil failure and the oil pressure gauge goes to 0. Then when I shut off the car the error disappears. I think it has to be the oil pressure sending unit, especially from other similar issues on this forum. Some history on my car. Well I bought the car from carmax and purchased the maxcare warranty. I was going to put the part and do it myself but it was too easy and I said let me use the warranty (since they would use Porsche parts) and I won't have to buy the part. So when I bring it in they tell me that if they can't find a fault they have to charge me a diagnostic fee. I said ok I know what the problem is and the oil pressure sending unit is covered under the warranty so go ahead. The call me back with the results and told me that their Alltel computer diagnostic system did not read any faults and the first thing they did was check the oil level and it was low. I was upset because I run the oil check every time I run the car and I never received a low oil light on. I ran over there because I thought the technician doesn't know how to read Porsche oil and we confirmed that the oil level was smack in the middle of the min and max lines and no light on the dash. My response was oil level is good. His response was that oil level is low and that could be the cause of the oil pressure sending unit. My first question is that oil level considered have oil that is too low? I need help because I feel Carmax just conned me out of a diagnostic fee because they didn't even proceed to look for a loose wire or anything. They said if the oil level is low thats the first thing that needs to be fixed. I would understand if the oil level is low. But it is in the middle of the dipstick in the acceptable range? Please let me know if my logic or theirs is wrong. Thanks.
einesv996 posted a topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Hello I have a 1999 c2 manual with 72000 miles. Yesterday I find oil dripping from, as i looks, front end of the gearbox. The undertray is quite wet from oil, seems i must be oil under pressure, see pictures. On my inspection I did not find any loose bolts or anything wrong, or oil dripping form the gearbox itself. But as you see from the pictures, a lot of oil has been leaking. As far as I concern there is no place in front end of the gearbox oil could leak from.No loose bolts or anything. So what happens here? einsv996
Spent the afternoon under the front N/S corner of the 04 Cayenne Turbo, looking to replace the seals on the boost hoses and dump valve. When unclipping the bottom turbo hose from the intercooler, I was stunned to find at least 1/4 litre of oil pour out of the hose onto the floor. In all my years, I've never taken a hose off a turbo and seen that much oil. Has anyone else on here taken the hose off the bottom of the intercooler on the N/S (Drivers side US & Europe, Passenger side UK) and experenced it full of oil? I'm worried about the state of the oil seals on the N/S turbo. Is this a feature of the Cayenne's turbo design?? I replaced all of the seals on the hoses at the O/S earlier in the year, and the bottom hose was dry. This N/S hose is shaped differently, but should it collect 1/4 litre of oil like this? Thanks Chris
So i've been ordering my filters through suncoast porsche for a long time now, but i figured i would take a chance on one of my amazon orders. Here are some comparison shots: The short of it....looks like Mahle is one of the OEM suppliers of this filter. In case anyone was looking to save a few bucks. I change mine every 5-10k so i buy several a year. for 13 bucks and change. http://www.amazon.com/MAHLE-Original-OX-128-1D/dp/B004JBQ3T8/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Porsche%7C2&Model=Cayenne%7C19&Year=2004%7C2004&carId=001&n=15684181&newCar=1&s=automotive&vehicleType=automotive
I have recently heard that there is an upgrade tiptronic gearbox oil/fluid available in the market which should give a better response for the Tip box. Does this really work? Have anyone tried before? I am interested to learn as I have realized that the tip at high revs seems not responding as good when compares to mid to low range revs. Thx
Hello all I recently purchased 2 cases of AGIP SINT 2000 10w-40 for an oil change in the lambo. Now having just bought my car i wanted to throw some fresh oil in along with an oil filter to play it safe. What do you all think about using this oil i have i case left over (12 quarts) and i dont just want to have oil sitting around getting old, rather put it to use. Obviously dont want to harm the engine which is why i am asking the question before doing anything. Thanks Alex M http://www.americanagip.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=29&zenid=c0eb93b7ac2cd15121d91edc71f2dcb6
Hi, I've been lurking for a while with my 2004 CTT. I love the car and haven't really had many issues other than the normal coolant pipes. I do all my own work, and this is my dail driver, so the work is much more simple than my other cars. I have two, hopefully, basic questions: 1. the Diff "Locks"...are those viscous diffs or truely locking? 2. Because Burmah oil is hard to come by in the states, is there a fluid that is recommended other than the porsche part? i know redline has a gl5 rated fluid, but if there are clutchpacks in the lockers....i would hate to decrease the locking ability of the discs by using a full synthetic oil. I've seen people using M1, Redline MT-90 all the way to 75w-90 GL5, AMSOIL... My theory is if the lockers are truely mechanical, then i won't be as worried with a change in gear oil....but if they do rely on friction discs.....i'll stick with the OEM. TIA