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Found 3 results

  1. Recently I had been noticing issues with my cooling system the coolant temp guage would go past the 0 on 180 and I wouldn’t hear fans or anything. (Already tested fans and resistors and relays). The temperature Will continue to creep up if I sit still, with no signs of fans, AC OFF. I replaced the coolant temp sensor. Problem fixed!! Then same issue again it seems after a week of driving. Now i currently have ordered another temp sensor just Incase I maybe did something to cause the other new one too fail, I’ll be changing it again today. However I was doing the climate control hack to check my actual temperatures today while doing a short troubleshooting drive. And I noticed my oil temperature said 0, which is physically impossible 🙄 Is it possible the oil temp guage is throwing off the coolant sensor? Is it even possible for the oil temp sensor too go bad but not the oil level sensor? (They are a 2 in 1 sensor) THANK YOU IN ADVANCE
  2. 1999 Porsche Boxster overheating issue, Car has 133,000 miles on it. Car overheats when driving on the highway Letting the overheated car sit still and idle after the temperature gauge gets into the above 180° field will cause the temp to fall to just slightly higher than normal. The radiator fans both run and you can feel the air blowing into the radiators and under out of each front end of the car and seems like they are running on high speed. Seems to be a lot of air being drawn into the front bumper opening and being blown out behind the rad. Discharge air seems cooler than I would expect since it is blowing across a 180° radiator. No steam or smell of coolant. Both fans are also able to be activated by my Durametric unit but my durametric unit does not have the ability to activate on low and high only on-off. I do not have the PRO version. Did not check with A/C on/off. The coolant tank is at max mark on tank, no bubbles inside tank when car is running and warmed up. Not losing coolant at all. New radiator cap replaced last summer cap says motorad germany T25 VW OE P.N. 171121321D. I had it on the car all last summer and did not have any overheating issues. When I bought it it was supposed to be an OEM replacement for my Porsche.The antifreeze was flushed and replaced when I replaced the water pump last year. It was leaking at the seal hole. A new belt was also put on at that time. It did not overheat during the summer months of driving it after all that was done, The oil is full and there is no foam in the oil whatsoever. The interior heater puts out a lot of heat so I assume I am pushing water because I used it to cool car down when it overheated One thing I did notice, I did not hear the engine bay fan run at all. I used to hear this whenever the car was hot when I parked the car. Could it be responsible for the overheating problem by itself? How do I troubleshoot this fan. Tomorrow I am going to drop front bumper cover and clean the radiators. Would like to keep car for a while yet, bought it 4 years ago with 66,000 miles. Wife and I put a new roof on and new seat upholstery, had a clutch installed. So I have a few dollars in it already. Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks
  3. I recently had to replace the water pump on my 2001 Boxster. This all went fine, however, the red light to the right of the temperature gauge is blinking at 1 Hz. I've read this indicates low coolant level. I followed the factory procedure to bleed the system and it is filled to the max, but the light still blinks. Also, the gauge is flatlined to the left. I replaced the temperature sensor near the #4 cylinder head without improvement, and the wires "look" ok. All the fuses are good. Does anyone know the procedure to troubleshoot this wiring? Or the pin and socket numbers for the wiring diagram? The temperature gauge worked fine before the water pump blew up. I did recover most of the impeller, but a few small pieces are in there.
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