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Found 12 results

  1. Recently I had been noticing issues with my cooling system the coolant temp guage would go past the 0 on 180 and I wouldn’t hear fans or anything. (Already tested fans and resistors and relays). The temperature Will continue to creep up if I sit still, with no signs of fans, AC OFF. I replaced the coolant temp sensor. Problem fixed!! Then same issue again it seems after a week of driving. Now i currently have ordered another temp sensor just Incase I maybe did something to cause the other new one too fail, I’ll be changing it again today. However I was doing the climate control hack to check my actual temperatures today while doing a short troubleshooting drive. And I noticed my oil temperature said 0, which is physically impossible 🙄 Is it possible the oil temp guage is throwing off the coolant sensor? Is it even possible for the oil temp sensor too go bad but not the oil level sensor? (They are a 2 in 1 sensor) THANK YOU IN ADVANCE
  2. 2006 997.1 S I'm installing an AIM Data logger and want to add some additional Oil Pressure Sensors for monitoring. I've been told that the OE location is in the upper right corner of the 456 Bank and that there is a tapped and plugged location on the lower right corner of the 123 bank. I figured that would work fir one and I was hoping to add an additional one somewhere that would give me a reading closer to the sump. The goal is to differentiate between G Force effected readings and if I'm running the sump dry. Any suggestions? Thanks, Mark
  3. Hello, I'm new on this forum and stumbled upon a new problem (or old) with my 2.5l 986 Boxster from 1997. The problem occurs when the engine is started dead cold after sitting a few hours/overnight. Engine starts immediately but the RPMs start to surge / hunt between 1100 and 700 RPM. This continues for about 10 seconds after which the idle smoothes out to the normal cold idle RPM. The first pull away requires a tad more throttle then normal to prevent stalling. After this first pull, everything is almost normal and engine performance becomes better and better. When the engine is hot, the idle sits at 780 RPM with a minor fluctuation now and then (seems to be more than normal) I've been to two shops (official Porsche dealer and local Porsche specialist). Porsche dealer couldn't find anything and the specialist found the camshaft sensor on the left bank to be unplugged - but now comes the strange thing - the cabling is nowhere to be found!!!!!!? Took the car home to check myself but didn't find anything. No camshaft related codes to be found in the diagnosis and no CEL either. Attached one pic showing the sensor and it's missing plug Could someone help me out? - Is it possible for the engine not to throw a CEL when sensor is disconnected? - where is the sensor wire to be found?
  4. Hi Porsche Gurus I’m trying to troubleshoot a little issue I have that just my drivers door courtesy lights (and drivers sunvisor light but not sure if that’s different issue) don’t work, both the red and white ones and only the one door(rhd car) now ive checked the common things like all the fuses and the wiring to see if they were damaged or corroded but they seem fine, The one thing I would like to check but can not find any info on is where or what is the switch or sensor that tells the lights that the door is open to turn the lights on? If I can find that then that will at least eliminate all manual fixes that I can think of unless any of you have come across this before, if it’s something simple and I look like a fool for not thinking of it then I’m happy to be a fool as long as the lights work:) any help would be much appreciated thanks Stevie G
  5. I installed a complete Used FVD Brombacher exhaust this weekend. Headers, Cats, Mufflers, 02 Sensors. When installing the FVD exhaust I noticed that the post catalytic O2 sensors were on opposite sides of the stock headers. (2001 C2 Manual) The leads were not long enough to go to the opposite side connectors. So I plugged them into the sockets closest to them. I was able to drive for about 30 miles until the CEL light came on. I noticed the idle was a little off, would fluctuate between the 760 - 860 range I think . Car drove fine. When I got back home I checked the codes.P01030 O2 Sensor Curcuit Bank 1P1133P1130 Oxygen SensingP1126 Oxygen SensingP0300 Random Misifre DetectedP0306 Misfire Cyl 6P0304 Mis Cyl 4P0305 Mis Cyl 502 Sensor Output 0.0v Bank 1 Sensor 1 I hope you enjoyed my drawings. Would this be due to the post cat O2 sensors be plugged into the opposite connectors? Plugs and tubes were replaced about 6K ago, all the coils looked fine. The 02 sensors came on the exhaust. Could this just be a bad O2 sensor? Would it be advisable to get the DME re tuned for the new exhaust?'Thanks!
  6. Hey guys, So I'm having this issue that is driving me crazy. My SAI (Secondary AIr Injection) and Oxygen Sensor are not reaching "Ready Status" A little background about my car. 2006 Boxster S 3.2L FVD Exhaust system GMS Headers with 200 cell cats - has all 4 O2 sensors attached. 996 throttle body and distribution hose ECU Tuning Group tune I had the car up in BC Canada since 2009 (although it is a US car) and had no problems passing the sniffer and obdII tests - both before and after all the mods except for the ECU tune. I went to get my emissions testing done last week in Texas and failed due to the 2 systems being in not-ready status. I figured it might have to do with the cat delete (ROW) configured in the tune. I sent my ECU back to ETG in California and had them re-flash my ECU in order to re-enable the O2 sensors. I cleared all codes and figured I would start fresh. I drove the car about 120 miles and attempted to follow the drive cycle mentioned in the forums but it was really tough with the roads out here. Everything is in ready status except for the SAI, and the O2 sensor. I can manually start the SAI using the Durametric system so I would believe the pump is not bad; however, I'm not sure that I"m hearing the SAI start up when I cold start the engine. For testing purposes I unplugged my O2 sensors from both bank1 and bank2 and they both threw fault codes which confirms that the ECU tune re-activated my sensors. I've uploaded a few pictures with the results from a OBDII app as well as the Durametric Software to my Google Drive. I'm not quite sure how to interpret the Durametric Voltage results - especially the negative 50 V and -127V - seems quite odd. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4ncE-o5M02DeUlLZVlxRV9hX3c Any help or guidance will be appreciated as I'm out of ideas. Thanks, Joel
  7. Could anybody help me with a wiring diagram from the engine ? I have trouble finding the solution . I already changed the sensor and coilpacks on bank 2. I also measure 12v on the connector . Should this not be 5v. I just bought the car it didn't run the last 6 years . I drove about 300 km without problems . It al starts after a cold start . Sorry for my English I live in Belgium . Greetings Bart
  8. I'd like to turn on the radiator fans at about a temperature that's 10 degrees cooler than what they currently turn on at. Is there a way to do that? Different temp switch? Reprogramming one of the computers? If reprogramming, can the Durametric Enthusiast do the job or is the Pro needed? Or some other available tool?
  9. Hi All, I'm a noob to this forum looking for some advice if possible. My car is a 1998 996 911 C2. Last year I had an issue with a cam shaft positioning sensor that meant my car had gear change issues at high revs in either manual or full auto modes. It would get to the point of changing gear in either mode and would struggle to change and if looking at the dash the LED's would jump between the gear selected and manual/auto modes. This was identified that a reluctor ring on the cam shaft itself was bent so not allowing the positioning sensor to identify the cam shaft speed. I had the engine removed and this issue rectified along with the LN IMS bearing upgrade, new oil separator, new oil filter, oil change & new rear main seal on the engine going back in. This was just shy of £2k of parts & labour at the end of last summer. I have hardly driven the car since this (few hundred miles) as I had it moth balled over winter as was considering selling it and wanted to not put any miles on (76k on clock). I've been driving the car recently. It starts perfectly and sounds sweet but I think the above fault has come back. Just looking to see if anybody else has encountered a similar fault and what would be the best path to take from here? Should I go back to the same service centre asking them to re-check the issue or get a second opinion. I can't afford many more £2k bills on the car!!! Thanks all in advance... Ash
  10. See broken part in this Front Left wheel well pic of my 04 996... assume it is a suspension stroke sensor, but what does it do, and more importantly, what is the consequence of driving it un-repaired? I wonder how the ECU uses the input if there is no electronic suspension on my car... hmmm. The part it mounts to is plastic so it must have struck road debris I am guessing... if anyone knows the Part number so I can order a replacement many thanks in advance! Thx!
  11. Hello, I am in need of smogging my cayenne in order to register it and my check engine light just came on. The code I'm getting is P0030. After looking around most say it's the O2 sensor on the passenger side before the cat. I have 2 questions. Is this true? And does anyone know of detail instructions to replace it? Thanks in advance!
  12. I am having a few issues with my 2001 turbo. The problem is undoubtedly the previous owner, but besides that, I have some other issues. The car is throwing a PSM/ABS light after driving for anywhere over like 15 minutes or so. When I got the car it had a BMC filter, so I suspected the MAF may be the issue from the oil on the filter or just dirt. So I pulled the BMC and replaced it with porsche paper ( the car now consistently pulls 1.0+ bar ) and then pulled the MAF and cleaned it thoroughly. After cleaning the MAF, I drove it and the difference was unreal, perfectly smooth shifting, no more strange increased RPM's at idle, no more surging under load, random smoke puffs at startup, or rougher shifting. It felt like a different vehicle all together, but after driving for about 15 minutes, the feeling started to go away back to the earlier symptoms and then the PSM/ABS lights came on again. I tried to run the lights but they dont register as CEL's so I get no code from just a normal OBDII reader. I pulled the bosche MAF again and the part number is the newest 125 one. From what I know the 2001 turbos started with the 123 part number, had problems and switched to the 124 part# mid year, and ultimately to the 125 because the 124's were still succeptible to dirt sensitivity and malfunctions like the 123's were. I also know that the 125 requires some $1500 upgrades to the ECU to work properly with the car. My question is how I can determine if the ugrade has been done? also if the veterans here agree with my assumption that the MAF is in fact the correct diagnosis, or just help in general. Thanks a lot guys!
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