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Showing results for tags 'transmission'.
Found 23 results
2011 base Cayenne with the code p02cd00, auxiliary transmission fluid pump control module , anyone run across this issue before?
Ronnie38 posted a topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)My 2001 C4 Automatic had what appeared to slip (over rev) when making scarp turns, decided to replace transmission filter and refill, the first run after 10 minuets the transmission went into limp mode (lights on drive selector started to flash) check engine lamp came on (P0734 and P0734) was read. the reason given was input and output ratio wrong for both codes. The Durmatic gave no other info. So I proceeded to order both input and output sensors. Since I couldn't confirm if a shift selonod was bad. Mean while I am in Cal for the holidays I remembered I moved two of the magnets in the pan there were 4 magnets 2 each in the depressions in the rear of the pan I took one each and moved the forward closer to the input and output sensors. Anybody out there have any idea besides taking it to the dealer, at 75 bucks for the 5 liters of tranny oil each time I replace something to help me be smarter?
Hi all, After 18yrs my convertible top has finally encountered its first issue. After using this forum (thank you!!) to figure out how to access all of the components (top was stuck in closed position), I found the root of my issue, a bad cable. However, as I was very carefully removing the cable from the transmission, the "clip" which is molded into the plastic cover cracked and is no longer functional (see image). Not really surprising on an 18yr old piece of plastic. The transmission works perfectly and I do not want to replace it, so I am looking for advice on any other ways that I can keep the cable properly engaged to the transmission. Please let me know if anyone else has encountered this and if there are any viable solutions. Thank you!
I recently changed my transmission with a used one I bought online. After picking up from the shop which was about 2 hours away the truck drove fine while on highway but once i got off the highway and came to a stop the truck wouldn't accelerate. I hit the gas and for about 3-5 seconds it didn't go anywhere and then all of a sudden it kicked in to gear. When i drive it with the tip-tronic it seems to be fine until I come to a a complete stop. I read on a different forum that someone was having the same issue and got some software updated but unfortunately doesn't say what the update was and it's a post from 2013. Any help will be greatly appreciated. I really like this car i purchased a couple months ago.
Hi everyone! I’m the proud new owner of a ‘99 Boxster 2.5L. Recently, I noticed that when my transmission automatically shifts from second to third gear, it’ll jerk very slightly, as if the transmission is stuck for the briefest moment in second gear right before it shifts. More noticeably, when I’m driving to slow down and breaking, as the transmission begins shifting from fourth to third and second, there is some jerking again—the sort of jerking you get when a transmission shifts into a slower gear and the car slows down suddenly because of the lower gear. So when I’m slowing down, I will be going at a given speed, the car will downshift a gear, I will feel that sudden slow down, the car will run at a lower speed, downshift again, and I’ll feel that sudden slowdown again. This keeps happening until the car reaches second gear, of course. Because of this, I recently had the transmission fluid changed. My mechanic showed me that the old transmission fluid was black and smelled like smoke, but that he hadn’t found any metal shavings so he thought the transmission was probably still okay. He told me to check in after a couple hundred miles to see if the transmission adjusts and drives better. It’s been a hundred miles, and I’m still seeing this behavior—should I be worried, or is this common in tiptronics? I’m hoping that best case scenario, the car’s sensors are miscalibrated and the trans is downshifting at the wrong times (thus the gap between the speed it’s going at and the slowing down effect of a lower gear). Worst case would be having to buy a new transmission. Please help! Would appreciate some advice or expertise.
A shop overfilled my transmission on a 2005 997 6spd. They used the wrong fill plug. I drove the car from their shop home about 45 miles mostly highway before noticing. I called the shop and they said no worries they will take care of it but I would need to get the car back to them. I jacked up the car and placed level on jack stands. I pulled the correct fill plug and at least 2 quarts came out. by inspecting the transmission it looks like the fluid was coming out around the passenger side axle. Does anyone know what could be damaged by driving the car with an overfilled transmission. I am confident the shop will make good but I would feel much better if I understood possible damages to the transmission/seals.
Has anyone had any experience with transmission Fluid leak on automatic, tiptronic 986, its by the front driver side tire, only about a half cup's worth. The car is an 03 with 107k miles, I have had the ims bearing taken care of and replaced the rms, no oil leaks. The air pump, fuel pump and aos have all been replaced with in the past 10k miles... at my last service mechanic stated that the transmission wiring harness would be the next thing to fail based on the mileage of the vehicle. Has anyone had any experience w this? Could this be the cause of the leak? ... any insight would be appreciated
Hello everyone, My convertible top broke in "fully up" position recently, with the clamshell at a 20 degree tilt. Was able to remove the clamshell by getting under it (painfully) and found a shredded motor cable going to the driver's side. I wanted to make sure that neither of the two transmissions were at fault, so I removed them to examine their gears. Carefully disassembling them, all the gears appear to be in good shape with no missing teeth, however, when using the old intact cable and using the power drill to rotate the cable, the circular interior that goes into the V-joint does not move at all when turning with the power drill. Does it only rotate when under pressure? I'm thinking I'm *almost* there and would like to avoid $200-$400 for new transmissions if not needed... Thanks in advance, Keith Rupp
I have a 2006 997.1. Recently I noticed that the plastic cover at the rear of the car was covered in oil. After pulling it it was obvious that it was gear oil from the transmission, and that it appeared to have come from the left (driver's) side axle. I pulled the halfshaft and replaced the seal. I then refilled the transmission and the leak has not gone away. I figured I screwed up on the seal, and replaced it a second time just to make sure I hadn't lost the tension spring or whatever but that didn't do anything. My next thought is that it was probably overfilled. The book states 2.9l, but my assumption is that it can't actually take that much during a change -- only when filled from dry. After some googling I found some references to 2.6l when doing a change, though I've not been able to verify that in the owner's manual, service book, or anywhere else. I started slowly draining fluid and driving around the block to see what happens. As I drain more fluid it leaks less and less. However, I don't want to end up with too little so I'm not sure what to do here. The seal was an easy change, but I'm not too keen on doing it again because I'm pretty sure that's not the problem at this point. Does anyone know if the transmissions on these cars might have some kind of vent on the driver's side? The passenger side is dry and clean and there haven't been any problems with it. Is it likely that it's still overfull and the seal is really meant to prevent excess from splashing out and too much oil will still find its way out? From what I see those seals really can't do much to hold anything in if there's an excess of oil being thrown at it.
Greetings everyone. I've got a really weird problem going on at the moment. So, I put my car up on my jack stands and did a transmission fluid and front differential fluid change with Porsche OEM 75w-90 fluid. After buttoning up everything and making sure everything was tight and not leaking, I took the car for a test drive. I noticed first of all, that my clutch wouldn't quite return properly when I started up the car. I checked to make sure the floor mat wasn't causing any problems, the clutch pedal popped right back up, so I assume it was the mat. After getting the car out of the garage, the clutch was returning properly, until I made it to 3rd gear. At that point, the clutch felt, the best way I can describe it is "sluggish." Then, it felt like the clutch was slipping horribly. Trying to accelerate in any gear was was nearly impossible. Incidentally, I could start the car on a hill without any problems (in first, obviously). I finally made it home, put the car in my garage and will crawl around under it in the morning. The fluid change was a simple task so I don't know what could have gone wrong. I filled it until it dripped out of the fill hole, so I definitely didn't overfill (yes, I used the forward fill hole, not the one by the axles) :-) Everything was working perfectly prior to the fluid change. Anyway, has anyone ever experienced anything like this after changing transmission fluid? What could I have done wrong or screwed up? PS: The car is a 2008 Carrera 4S
Hi All, Please forgive me if I'm repeating a post. I've looked for a solution to my issue fairly thoroughly and both online or in person I have found little information on the subject specific to the automobile or mostly dismissive answers to the question: "What, if any component or piece of the transmission/clutch system governs the engagement point as it relates to pedal travel?" The car is a 2003 TT and when I had the cooling tubes pinned I had a stage 2 clutch installed. When I first bought the car I thought that the pedal "caught" high in comparison to our 2001 C4 and 2003 C2, I wanted to simply lower the progression and I expected the 600+ HP rated clutch to be heavier. In effect this all had the exact opposite effect. The clutch catches extremely high through about three degrees of pedal travel. Does anyone out there know enough about this system to perhaps comment on the situation? I am suspecting the springs govern the progression. But then what governs the spot where engagement begins? I would find the car far easier to drive if it could be moved closer to the floor. Right now I have to physically bend my knee to release the clutch and with so little progression it's actually hard to drive smoothly. I can honestly say I wouldn't buy it if I test drove it like it is now. Biggest mistake I ever made with a car. Any information or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Can anyone help me identify a fluid leak? While changing oil on my '04 Cayenne S, I noticed a small leak coming from the drain (weep) hole of what I would normally call the bell housing which I assume is part of the transmission housing. There are 3 small holes in a row which appear to be drain holes. The fluid has the consistency of 90 weight oil. It is amber in color. It's not motor oil or transmission fluid (which I think is colored Red). Thanks!
PomPorsche posted a topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Hi, I have a 1999 911/996 that grinds going into 2nd gear, unless I double-de-clutch, and the clutch is high. I have had an independant garage look at it and they have said it needs a new syncromesh and forks (ouch!), but they and their transmission guy can't get the parts to fix it (do Porsche keep them for main dealerships only?). Their only solution they offered was a new transmission at around $17,000!! Has anybody had similar problems and/or can recommend anywhere near me (McLean, VA) to take it for repair? Thanks!
Doing my usual Saturday morning check-under-the-car routine, and noticed that something might have been seeping/leaking very slowly. I was investigating what could be making the noise referred to in this http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/44468-auto-noise-when-stationary-and-in-gear/ Nothing on the ground. Did the most sensible thing, and pulled the cover off, and cleaned it up (pic below) Checking around, it seemed that the area around the transmission oil pan is a bit grimy, like being caused by slowly escaping oil. Interestingly, one of the bolt's head was filled with oil. Definitely not engine oil, so would it be that the pan's gasket is leaking, or the pan hasn't been tightened correctly causing it to seep oil? Or is it something else? Car is 2003 C4 Cabriolet Tip
I have an 04 CS with 112K and a failing valve body. Classic hard downshift from 5-4 under load and occassionally from 4-3 while coasting to a stop. It's been scanned and no codes came up, just slamming into gear. I sent a certified ford mech friend of mine on a search for a source for a valve body and he sent me a link to http://www.revmaxconverters.com I am wondering if anyone out there has any positive or negative feedback about this. $659 sounds pretty cheap, and my favorite saying is "you get what you pay for". I don't want to waste $$$ on this and paying to have it installed if it is junk. Thanks for any recommendations that you can pass along. Here is the direct link to the part: http://www.revmaxconverters.com/index.php/valve-bodies/updated-oem-replacements/09d-tr-60sn-488.html?
Hi everyone, my 99 C2 runs strong except for a couple of concerns. First, I have a cold start chain clatter that I will address with new tensioners (eventually). Since I have owned the car however, I have an intermittent "whooping" sound when I engage the clutch. It seems to happen more if the car is rather warm. The clutch does not seem to slip and like I said, the car runs strong. I am thinking that it is a sound related to the release bearing and nothing to get too screwed up about. Any thoughts from the community?
hey guys, this is my first post in hopes of coming to a conclusion, i currently have a 1998 porsche boxster with tiptronic transmission, the following problems are as follows. 1.when in parking the car doesnt stop 2.when in automatic drive car doesnt go to 3rd gear it jumps from 2nd to safe mode with a big kick 3.when left on first gear in manual mode car exhaust sound gets louder, and when letting of the gas does big kick to safe mode 4.when the car is turned on and switched to manual the tiptronic controls only lets me move up to 2nd gear. i was thinking it was the transmission ecu but it wasnt, i have tried 2 other ecu's one with the exact serial codes as the original (besides actual ecu serial) and still same problem Might it just be the transmission itself? if so where can i buy rebuild parts? and guide on how to. I really need to get this figured out any advice would be helpful, thank-you for your time :)
Has anyone used europeantransmissions.com for a transmission rebuild? They seem very customer focused and knowledgeable, but I'd like opinions before I take the leap. Thanks!
All you great mechanics and experts out there I need help... I pulled into the driveway and everything was fine. Went to go somewhere the next day, engine starts fine, moved shifter into reverse to back out and no shift, still in park.. try drive, no drive, try manual/tiptronic no love.. wtf?? The shifter seems to move lighter than before could something in there have broken? I'm thinking if I can't fix I need a mechanic to come to me. Without neutral we can't tow right? .... *sigh* Last thing I need right now is a big bill.. any help/advice/thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance! - Andrew
This above referenced car is sitting at my local Porsche dealer. The car currently has 36500 miles. When I looked at the CARFAX the following service was completed at Beverly Hills Porsche (4-08 @ 22,800 miles)Transmission removed to complete repair Fuel filler cap secured, Front crankshaft oil seal replaced Engine cleaned Transmission checked. Had the dealer call BHP and they also replaced the clutch but no intermediate shaft bearing. Have requested the DME but have yet to get a reply. Will obviously get a PPI should I get a favorable response. Should I stay or should I go on to something else? Ron
Ok...Ive read all of the posts on this forum and (have been a contributing member since day one of my Cayenne ownership), about the hard shifting from 5-4 and 4-5 with the cayenne S. Mine is an 04S with 94K bought from the dealer with 72K in October (yess I do a ton of driving, but why not do it in style?) Here is the issue: Hard downshifts after cruising in 5th or 6th gear at around 55 mph, when I coast down to say 35 mph and get back on the gas I get a hard clunk (just like everyone else with an 04) as if i just hit a cinder block in the road. my gut is saying trans valve body. Today I took to the only indy Porsche mechanic in my area (he only works on german autos his lot was filled with BMW's and Mercedes and came highly recommended) and he advised, after witnessing the same symptoms that I have described, that I take it to the dealership and have the Trans control unit and the DME software reprogramed, and then if the issues reoccur, to bring it back to him and then he will proceed with the valve body or full on trans replacement. ultimatley, here is my question. I have an appt with the dealership on thursday for the reprogram. Am I wasitng time and $ the the software reprogram, or should I just let the dealership diagnose and trust what they have to say? I am a good mechanic and have worked on everything under the sun except a Porsche and am wondering if the TVB is something that is reasonably do-able in the everyday man's garage
I have the typical 2nd gear synchro issue on my 2000 Boxster S. When I bought it, I (regrettably) did not do a PII and overpaid too. Yes, I can analyze the things I SHOULD have done, but I am trying to look forward on how to get us much enjoyment out of my purchase. I have already done some work on it myself (water pump, radiator, short circuit repair, transmission fluid, oil and filter) which chewed further into the $$$. The only nagging issue that I am now aware of is this 2nd gear grinding. I have figured out that I can double-clutch (up) into 2nd without the grind. However, that doesn't make for sporty shifting (at least not how I double-clutch) and also doesn't work well for shifting down for a turn. Is it possible to do a DIY repair on the 2nd gear synchro? Are there step-by-step details available on how to do it? I have seen instructions for other transmissions (below), but not for the Boxster 6-speed. Any help? http://porsche.wikidot.com/how-to:porsche-915-transmission-repair-tutorial-part-ii http://www.thesaabsite.com/9000/9000transrepair.htm