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Anyone....Need link to Fuel Pump replacement


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I do not think this has been covered before, and I have not done it.

Remove the battery and the 4 nuts for the battery tray. This much I have done. The pump is under the battery tray. First picture is my car from a few years ago when I looked to see what was under the battery tray.

You need to unscrew a plastic locking ring to get the pump out of the tank. The tool is a VW tool but if you are creative I bet you can remove the locking ring. This picture and the last picture were taken at my dealer last year after a fuel pump was removed, I think to replace the sender unit.

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The fuel level sender is the white portion you see looking down on the tank in Tool Pants first picture. Removing the pump is a pretty straight forward job. Remove the battery and tray and the black locking ring. Then you can pull the sender up and out of tank. Once you remove the fuel level sender you can look into the tank and see the pump is twist locked to the bottom of the tank. Reach in and you'll be able to unscrew it. You wont need to recalibrate the fuel level sensor. When you do reinstall the fuel level sender take care to line up the marks on top of the sender with the mark on the tank, otherwise the float will hang on the lines.

And just because I'm curious, why are you replacing the fuel pump?

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And just because I'm curious, why are you replacing the fuel pump?

I'm replacing it cause I ran nearly completely empty and stumbled once 3 seconds before I made it to the pump....now under load under 2000 rpms, the car will misfire 2-3 time before rpm's raise above 2k rpm's.

Well I did replace the fuel filter but no difference and today I finished the fuel pump installation and while the idle is smoother, the issue is still present......what the hell else can it be? I did install bosh platinum 2's about a month & a half ago, could those be crapping out alread....or could my maf be crapping?

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Well I did replace the fuel filter but no difference and today I finished the fuel pump installation and while the idle is smoother, the issue is still present......what the hell else can it be? I did install bosh platinum 2's about a month & a half ago, could those be crapping out alread....or could my maf be crapping?

almost guarantee it's your MAF. if you want to check, unplug your MAF and go for a drive. when the MAF signal isn't present, the car uses a default fuel map to run the car. if the problem goes away with the MAF unplugged, you have found your culprit.

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Insite! buddy, your here too huh! Ok ill try that tonite. Weird cause this MAF is only 2 months old. I dont have oil on my filter...maybe i should buy a HKS element and fabricate myself a better design of a filter...the sponge material seems more reliable than paper.

OH OH i also have an update....While replacing the pump didnt cure the issue, It wont happen in 1st gear anymore...only in the higher gears 2nd through 5th...the car requires more load than 1st gear can offer before it will stumble.

Edited by CJ_Boxster
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Why does the picture of the fuel pump look like its cracked open? is that some sorta mod?

I do not think this has been covered before, and I have not done it.

Remove the battery and the 4 nuts for the battery tray. This much I have done. The pump is under the battery tray. First picture is my car from a few years ago when I looked to see what was under the battery tray.

You need to unscrew a plastic locking ring to get the pump out of the tank. The tool is a VW tool but if you are creative I bet you can remove the locking ring. This picture and the last picture were taken at my dealer last year after a fuel pump was removed, I think to replace the sender unit.

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Well I did replace the fuel filter but no difference and today I finished the fuel pump installation and while the idle is smoother, the issue is still present......what the hell else can it be? I did install bosh platinum 2's about a month & a half ago, could those be crapping out alread....or could my maf be crapping?

almost guarantee it's your MAF. if you want to check, unplug your MAF and go for a drive. when the MAF signal isn't present, the car uses a default fuel map to run the car. if the problem goes away with the MAF unplugged, you have found your culprit.

Ok, im going to go to lunch now but before i go, im going to disconnect the sensor and drive it to lunch...I called the mechanic that the dealer sent the car off to for the firs MAF replacment, they said they would replace it free of charge if its acting up again. FINGERS CROSSED!

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Insite! buddy, your here too huh! Ok ill try that tonite. Weird cause this MAF is only 2 months old. I dont have oil on my filter...maybe i should buy a HKS element and fabricate myself a better design of a filter...the sponge material seems more reliable than paper.

OH OH i also have an update....While replacing the pump didnt cure the issue, It wont happen in 1st gear anymore...only in the higher gears 2nd through 5th...the car requires more load than 1st gear can offer before it will stumble.

hmm. maybe not the MAF. do you have an OBDII scanner?

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Insite! buddy, your here too huh! Ok ill try that tonite. Weird cause this MAF is only 2 months old. I dont have oil on my filter...maybe i should buy a HKS element and fabricate myself a better design of a filter...the sponge material seems more reliable than paper.

OH OH i also have an update....While replacing the pump didnt cure the issue, It wont happen in 1st gear anymore...only in the higher gears 2nd through 5th...the car requires more load than 1st gear can offer before it will stumble.

hmm. maybe not the MAF. do you have an OBDII scanner?

Ok tried disconnecting the maf, it didn't change anything, I still get a stumble below 2k rpms in gears 2 through 5.

Check engine light came on about 40 minutes of driving with maf disconnected...hope it tells me what else is wrong.

Yeah I do have a odb II scanner at home, what should I look for while using the scanner?

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Ok tried disconnecting the maf, it didn't change anything, I still get a stumble below 2k rpms in gears 2 through 5.

Check engine light came on about 40 minutes of driving with maf disconnected...hope it tells me what else is wrong.

Yeah I do have a odb II scanner at home, what should I look for while using the scanner?

odd; the MIL should have come on right away with the MAF disconnected. anyway, use the OBD II scanner to post your long term fuel trims, idle trims, O2 voltages and any codes it throws. strange that you say the 'stumble' doesn't occur in 1st gear. describe the 'stumble' again as best you can.

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Ok tried disconnecting the maf, it didn't change anything, I still get a stumble below 2k rpms in gears 2 through 5.

Check engine light came on about 40 minutes of driving with maf disconnected...hope it tells me what else is wrong.

Yeah I do have a odb II scanner at home, what should I look for while using the scanner?

odd; the MIL should have come on right away with the MAF disconnected. anyway, use the OBD II scanner to post your long term fuel trims, idle trims, O2 voltages and any codes it throws. strange that you say the 'stumble' doesn't occur in 1st gear. describe the 'stumble' again as best you can.

Don't know what mil is...cel didn't come on till 40 minutes later, ok here's what happens....lets say I'm rolling at 30mph, and put the car in 4th gear which puts the rpms at 1500 rpms...when I accelerate at 1500 rpms, the car will stumble or misfire 2 or 3 time before reaching past 2000 rpms....the stumble feels like a momentary misfire.

If use the odbII to veiw voltage and all that other stuff I won't be able to tell what's good or bad, except for trouble codes.

Edited by CJ_Boxster
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If use the odbII to veiw voltage and all that other stuff I won't be able to tell what's good or bad, except for trouble codes.

just post the numbers and we'll go from there.

Ok ill do that, so ill get the car idling then record all the data its giving, then post it here... Maybe its time for me to take it to a mechanic. Anyone know a reputible non-dealer porsche mechanic in the Southern California/los angeles area that doesn't charge $270 to diagnose.?

Edited by CJ_Boxster
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Your ready to spend loads of money and time on fuel pumps, filters and MAF sensors but start banging on about what it might cost for someone who knows what they are doing to diagnosis the problem?!?! I really don't understand people like you at all. I read somewhere that it could be the clutch disc.... best change it and see if that helps.

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Your ready to spend loads of money and time on fuel pumps, filters and MAF sensors but start banging on about what it might cost for someone who knows what they are doing to diagnosis the problem?!?! I really don't understand people like you at all. I read somewhere that it could be the clutch disc.... best change it and see if that helps.

Trust me, spending money on a MAF, fuel pump, and filter cost me less what it would probably cost me to have porsche diagnose the car.

The Maf was replace free of charge by dealer....filter was 30 bucks from Pelican...Pump was 85 from Salvage yard Georgia....thanks insite!

Maybe you understand now.

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And just because I'm curious, why are you replacing the fuel pump?

I'm replacing it cause I ran nearly completely empty and stumbled once 3 seconds before I made it to the pump....now under load under 2000 rpms, the car will misfire 2-3 time before rpm's raise above 2k rpm's.

Well I did replace the fuel filter but no difference and today I finished the fuel pump installation and while the idle is smoother, the issue is still present......what the hell else can it be? I did install bosh platinum 2's about a month & a half ago, could those be crapping out alread....or could my maf be crapping?

The reason I asked was because they never go bad in these cars. How do you know the car is missing? Is it something you feel or are you getting a check engine light and misfire codes? I would look hard at your plugs, double check that you got the right ones, or better yet, replace them with new stock plugs.

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CJ,

I read on this site a while ago that simply running your car on empty can goof up your ECU programming and cause the symptoms you describe. In an earlier case the cure was to simply disconnect the battery long enough to wipe out the memory on the ECU and drive the car to "re-calibrate" it. Has this been done already?? You will need your radio security codes to reset your radio but this costs nothing and you can do it yourself.

If this has already been done it sounds like time for a skilled tech to do a diagnosis. I have a local guy near me in SOCAL. He has lots of experience but his diagnostic skills on newer cars are only fair and he is not cheap.

Edited by Topless
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CJ-

I'm only gonna say this once in this forum...as many people in the other Boxster forums have warned you about messing with these cars. STOP!!! You were warned about the "mods" you've been doing to this car and now your having troubles. Coincidence?!?!?! I think not. These cars are picky and most people who have done mods to these cars end up spending a considerable amount of money to correct their mistakes.

OK---done ranting. Sorry...

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Topless, Yes i've done this while i replaced the fuel pump, It took me about a hr and during that hour the battery was out the car. No change. no codes. no clue, Im going to take it to a non-dealer porsche mechanic soon cause on hotter days the hesitation worsens and cold days its almost perfect.

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CJ-

I'm only gonna say this once in this forum...as many people in the other Boxster forums have warned you about messing with these cars. STOP!!! You were warned about the "mods" you've been doing to this car and now your having troubles. Coincidence?!?!?! I think not. These cars are picky and most people who have done mods to these cars end up spending a considerable amount of money to correct their mistakes.

OK---done ranting. Sorry...

All I have done was de snorkel and installed a dry K&N filter...I think ill let the shop tell me whats wrong with the car. Its proving impossible to diagnose the car over a forum.

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