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Is there a specific Porsche tool for the separation of the ball joint located at the end of the control arm. I am replacing the rear wheel bearing on my 97 Boxster and I think I need to separate the ball joint in order to install the bearing removal tool.

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Thanks for the information. After a little more searching, it looks like Harbor Freight (yikes) has a similar tool for about $90. Do you know anything about this item? Harbor Freight p/n 92882

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Thanks again, just ordered the part from Harbor Freight.

Please report back on how well the HF tool worked.

thanks,

Graeme

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NAPA has one for $18. Its part number 3916.

Works great!

post-10869-1163870565_thumb.jpg

D*amn, I'm having a hard time finding that tool at any NAPA. Harbor Freight says it'll take 8-10 days to deliver. Can anyone sell me one? Anyone in the SF Bay Area have one for me to buy (or rent)?

Edited by discoganya

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[The Harbor Frieght tools worked great. I have done one other wheel bearing repalcement without this tool set and I now wonder how I ever did it. In my opinion, this tool set is essential to do the job without tearing up the ball joint boot. Also I needed the standard puller included in this set to remove the bearing race from the hub.

Edited by zokman

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post-1-1163005091.png

Porsche tool 9560 (part no. 000.721.956.00) -- MSRP $209.78

I think you can find a similar tool via third party.

Kind of dummmmb question do you have illustration how to use or set up the tool please

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post-1-1163005091.png

Porsche tool 9560 (part no. 000.721.956.00) -- MSRP $209.78

I think you can find a similar tool via third party.

Dummmmb question do you have a illustration on how to use the tool please

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post-1-1163005091.png

Porsche tool 9560 (part no. 000.721.956.00) -- MSRP $209.78

I think you can find a similar tool via third party.

Dummmmb question do you have a illustration on how to use the tool please

Put the forked part between the control arm and the ball joint, with the "finger" part on the end of ball joint threads. When you turn the bolt, it's supposed to push the threaded end of the ball joint back through the control arm...

I hope that's clear enough, if not we'll try again. :)

Eric

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post-1-1163005091.png

Porsche tool 9560 (part no. 000.721.956.00) -- MSRP $209.78

I think you can find a similar tool via third party.

Dummmmb question do you have a illustration on how to use the tool please

Here's a pic from my suspension R&R (http://gwl.rmsolo.org/hacks/suspension):

PB240022.jpg

Just got back from NAPA and all they had was this tool....775-9096

Course mine is not black like in the picture.

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLM...Joint+Separator

Did i get the right tool?

Thx

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Yup, that's the right one.

I just had to use one of those yesterday. It does work, but it is more difficult to seat on the balljoint. Also, you have to be sure to leave the nut screwed on the balljoint so the top of the threaded shaft is level with the top of the nut.

Good Luck

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If your in a rutt and cant find the tool in time, I've actually seperated the ball joint with a plastic hammer and a couple good wacks on the on the spindle where the ball joint is connected to. I've used this on my import car days and it works the same with the boxster too :P

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If your in a rutt and cant find the tool in time, I've actually seperated the ball joint with a plastic hammer and a couple good wacks on the on the spindle where the ball joint is connected to. I've used this on my import car days and it works the same with the boxster too :P

same here, works like a charm

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post-1-1163005091.png

Porsche tool 9560 (part no. 000.721.956.00) -- MSRP $209.78

I think you can find a similar tool via third party.

Dummmmb question do you have a illustration on how to use the tool please

Here's a pic from my suspension R&R (<a href="http://gwl.rmsolo.org/hacks/suspension" target="_blank">http://gwl.rmsolo.org/hacks/suspension</a>):

PB240022.jpg

Just got back from NAPA and all they had was this tool....775-9096

Course mine is not black like in the picture.

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLM...Joint+Separator

Did i get the right tool?

Thx

i tried this and it does not seem to work

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I got one from Sears. $19

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_0...20070921x00003a

Funny thing when I went to use it to replace my front tie rods, I unloosened the nut and the ball joint fell out of the wheel carrier. Didn't need it at all.

D

I went to advance auto and the tool they have to rent is the same as the one i have from napa.

I can't get the ball joint connected to the control arm seperated from the hub that is behind the rotor.

I am getting a little stredd b/c i can't find a tool to get this finished.

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I got one from Sears. $19

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_0...20070921x00003a

Funny thing when I went to use it to replace my front tie rods, I unloosened the nut and the ball joint fell out of the wheel carrier. Didn't need it at all.

D

I went to advance auto and the tool they have to rent is the same as the one i have from napa.

I can't get the ball joint connected to the control arm seperated from the hub that is behind the rotor.

I am getting a little stredd b/c i can't find a tool to get this finished.

I had trouble with the napa one - it didn't seem quite long enough - the lever did not sit fully on top of the threaded rod. If it is not fully on the rod, it can crush half of the rod.

I like the Harbor Frieght one better, although the bottom jaw needed slight widening with a file.

Also, you need to disconnect the drop link and the tie rod to turn the wheel carrier to get the right angle on the lower control arm to get the tool in. You also need to smash the rubber boot down so the jaw id up against the metal cone.

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i used a flap disc and made the mouth wider and thinned it out also, so i will have to see how it works when i get home

this mod actually helped to get the drivers side off in no time at all.

BUT after removing the right side, I bent the threads on the ball joint........

I am assuming that i need to replace the entire control arm.

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i used a flap disc and made the mouth wider and thinned it out also, so i will have to see how it works when i get home

this mod actually helped to get the drivers side off in no time at all.

BUT after removing the right side, I bent the threads on the ball joint........

I am assuming that i need to replace the entire control arm.

depends on how much you bent them. i bent them on my rear control arm once, but not too bad. i used a small file to file away the two threads i bent very carefully, and managed to get the nut back on. i have since gotten a huge assortment of taps and dies because the filing was a little hit or miss. but study it - see what is bent, and see if you think you can remove a couple of threads - it is cheaper than the 200 - 300 control arm.

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