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Various CEL's and a lot replaced..


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Hi everyone,

My '01 986S is having some problems. It all started with a failing RMS, once replaced it started to leak again within the same day. And a lot! Had to refill the oil level during my ride back to the shop and the car begon to run differently (worse, rough idling etc). Could have slightly overfilled. :unsure: New RMS (glued in) and no problems with leaks from this seal anymore. However the whole right side of the engine was covered in oil, so we replaced the oil filler tube since it was coverd in oil as well. Since that time variuos CEL's have haunted me.

In the morning, I would claud up my street with white smoke during startup. Disconecting the throttle body, huge amount of oil in there and in the intakes as well. Mechanics replaced the Air-Oil Seperator and I cleaned the throttle body and intakes as good as I could, without taking the air intake manifolt of the engine. After that no more smoke. Still had those cell lights returning every 3-4 days after deleting them from the DME, or by disconnecting the battery lead for a few hours.

It seemed like the MAF was at fault, as the car would lack power and would run and idle poorly. The original MAF (type: 99660612400 fabricated in 2001) was replaced by a new one (same one, 99660612400 BUT fabricated in 2006) and fuel consumption would go through the roof and the car was not even drivable (backfire, gas from the exhaust etc.). The new MAF with the same partno. would not work in my car at all. Tried 3 different new ones, same result. We decided to clean an old one and now the car runs fine again but stil with CEL.

Replaced all 4 Oxygen sensors. One was completely clogged up and had carbon hanging from it's "nose". After that removed all DME faults, let the car sit overnight without juice and after 5 days of driving (500miles) CEL came up again (allways when idling). Repeated the process but tried those new MAF's again, same result (feels like missing 200bhp). Swapped MAF's to the old one again and the car runs great (only a little rough when idling) but I still get these codes:

1130

1128

1126

1133

0107 ??

Can you please help me? Should I have tried to fit the MAF updated version: 98660612501

Thanks!

Sebastian

Edited by doubleb
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have you tried disconnecting (but not removing) the MAF to see if the car runs better? also when playing around with the MAF it is necessary to disconnect the battery (just take neg cable off for a minute) so that the DME/ECU will adapt to the disconnected MAF or to a new MAF. the car will run fine without the MAF connected.

in other words, if you're going to disconnect the MAF wiring harness, disconnect it, then take the neg cable off of the battery for a minute (make sure you have your radio code), then re-attach the neg battery cable and then start it up. same procedure for if you are changing the MAF to a new one. if you don't do this (i assume that) the DME 'remembers' the (bad) MAF settings and runs accordingly.

this made all the difference for me when i had my MAF problem. even after i disconnected the MAF wiring harness, the car still ran terribly (same symptoms as yours). i got about 500 feet down the street and the CEL started flashing like crazy, so i pulled over. i walked home, read a post here about 'resetting the DME' via disconnecting the battery, walked back to my car, disconnected/reconnected the battery and the car ran perfectly. i was amazed!

at the very least, it's a no-cost option that just may work.

good luck!

Edited by Chris_in_NH
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Hi Chris,

Thanks very much for your reply, Yes I actually tried that a few times. No luck. Even when MAF disconnected and DME reset through disconnecting the negative pole, the car still feels like it lacks 200 horses.

Actually now with an old cleaned MAF (and CEL) the cars is faster then it ever was. I was used to drive 911's but now my boxster is actually way faster than any 911 I ever drove (except the 930). Maybe my mixture is out of wack which is causing a better combustion? Any hazards? Fuel consumption and engine temp are fine..

Can any or you guys explain the difference between the old and new maf with the same partnumber? :renntech:

Regards,

Sebastian

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Hi Chris,

Thanks very much for your reply, Yes I actually tried that a few times. No luck. Even when MAF disconnected and DME reset through disconnecting the negative pole, the car still feels like it lacks 200 horses.

Actually now with an old cleaned MAF (and CEL) the cars is faster then it ever was. I was used to drive 911's but now my boxster is actually way faster than any 911 I ever drove (except the 930). Maybe my mixture is out of wack which is causing a better combustion? Any hazards? Fuel consumption and engine temp are fine..

Can any or you guys explain the difference between the old and new maf with the same partnumber? :renntech:

Regards,

Sebastian

Try a smoke test, its possible you have a vacum leak. smoke test is one of the best ways of locating leaks.

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Hi Chris,

Thanks very much for your reply, Yes I actually tried that a few times. No luck. Even when MAF disconnected and DME reset through disconnecting the negative pole, the car still feels like it lacks 200 horses.

Actually now with an old cleaned MAF (and CEL) the cars is faster then it ever was. I was used to drive 911's but now my boxster is actually way faster than any 911 I ever drove (except the 930). Maybe my mixture is out of wack which is causing a better combustion? Any hazards? Fuel consumption and engine temp are fine..

Can any or you guys explain the difference between the old and new maf with the same partnumber? :renntech:

Regards,

Sebastian

Try a smoke test, its possible you have a vacum leak. smoke test is one of the best ways of locating leaks.

I;'m no expert but it could be the same problem i had with my car, mine wasn't quite as bad as yours but the symtoms were similar, try this thread http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=12091

Hope it helps

nik

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Hi Nik,

Allready checked my breather hose, seems rock solid. Can it still be broken, perhaps seals worn? The click when connecting does not seem that extremely tight..

Still unexplainable how a MAF with same partnumbers (99660612400) fabricated in 2001 does work and the same MAF fabricated in 2006 does not..

Can anyone tell me what CEL 0107 is all about?

Thanks!

Sebas

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  • Admin

P1128 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 – Above Limit or Below Limit

P1130 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 2 – Above Limit or Below Limit

P1126 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Lower Load Range, Bank 1 – Above Limit or Below Limit

P1133 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Lower Load Range, Bank 2 – Above Limit or Below Limit

P0107 Ambient Pressure Sensor – Below Limit

This code means your ambient pressure sensor is shorted to ground or your DME is bad. If this code does not go away then you need a new DME (since that is where the ambient pressure sensor is).

Based on these faults it looks like your DME can not control the mixture - period. I guess you can disconnect the battery (wait a few minutes). Then disconnect and DME connector(s) and reconnect them again. See if you get the same P0107 - if not is was a bad connection. If you do get the P0107 again it looks like you need a DME.

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  • 1 month later...

So got my car back from the shop. They had the DME reprogrammed and installed a newer MAF version. Now driven 2K miles and no check engine lights. The car feels differently though. Not realy slower, but different.

Anyway problem solved!

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