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guys what does those 2 code mean ?

what kind of fix do i need.. seems like something to do with the MAF??

Replace your MAF,or if you don't want to spend the $$$ try cleaning it. If you leave it, eventually your car will start performing strangely and you will also get a MAF specific code (e.g. P0102).

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In that check, be sure to look at the poorly placed, and poorly designed, and prone to failure, bellows between the engine and the oil/air separator. It is an easy fix and, at least for my car, cleared up all of the CEL's.

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  • 7 months later...
In that check, be sure to look at the poorly placed, and poorly designed, and prone to failure, bellows between the engine and the oil/air separator. It is an easy fix and, at least for my car, cleared up all of the CEL's.

OK, I'm a total car idiot, but along with the decision to buy a 996 last September, I also vowed to eventually master it inside and out. But I don't know where to start, and now that I've got these 2 codes (P1128 & P1130) popping up (I erased them tonight, but am sure I'll be seeing them again), I want to follow the above advice. Only problem is, I don't have any idea where ANY of the components are located that are mentioned. How does someone like me become a P-DIYer?

More pressingly: Do I have to cease and desist from driving the car until it's addressed?

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You can drive it. If you become a contributing member, you will have access to a significant amount of DIY information, manuals, etc. For example do a search for "1128" and you will find two pages full of threads on the subject and how other members dealt with it, pictures, etc. If you have some tools and determination/inclination, you can do it. Most common problems with a 996 can be done by you (with the knowlege and tools).

The cleaning of the MAF would be what I do first in your case, since it will cost you $2 in MAF cleaning spray at Autozone. What is the miles and year of your car? You may need a new MAF, or O2 sensor perhaps. Both easy to do on your own.

Safety first, if you are going to work on the car, get some decent jack stands (and jack), and search here for other simple tools like wooden ramps to make the job easier. Welcome to this little community!

Izzy

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Thank you, Izzy. Do I have to have 662 posts to be granted CM access? What made me ultimately buy THIS car was that instead of it having the full 69K miles that read on the odometer, the engine had been replaced under warranty at 46K in '04. Right now, it has almost 75K (which means the engine has 29K miles).

I'll do the searches to see what I can find. I appreciate the advice.

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Hmm, that information helps a bit. With that many miles, the O2 sensor(s) could be toasted. But definitely clean the MAF first, it is probably gunky. While you are it, you may want to clean the throttle body. If the codes come back post cleaning, you may need to get the sensors or MAF.

Oh, and 663 now....

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I would especially check the oil separator bellows for cracking, esp. on the back side of the bellows. It is located on the driver's side of the engine above the first cylinder cam. Do a search and you can find some photos and discussion on replacement. On my old motor I replaced it fairly easily using the factory bellows and a pair of screw down clamps (versus the factory style spring clamps). Easy DIY but painful to get to physically due to positioning.

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Alright. I feel like a Porsche mech. After I cleared the codes with the Old Bastard Dirty II, the check-engine light never returned. But assuming something actually triggered it, I decided to go ahead and prophylactically clean the MAF yesterday. With the smart and comprehensive guidance of RT contributing members, I pulled the MAF, cleaned it and reinstalled it. I also fixed my spoiler, which just made yesterday even more awesome. No engine light and I'm so glad I've finally delved into my engine. Next I'm going to change my own oil!

Thank you, Renntechers!

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