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Replacing the Gas/Fuel Door Actuator


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Replacing the Gas/Fuel Door Actuator


Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. (Special thanks to Chuck Jones for being the guinea pig and for taking the photos.) Parts you will need: 997.624.113.00 Actuator Tools you will need: Very short Torx T20 driver and right angle ratchet or tool to use the short T20 in a very confined space Regular screwdriver, phillips screw driver, and 10 mm wrench to remove th wheel well liner 1. Jac

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
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  • 1 month later...
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  • 1 year later...

this is the best site ever for DIY for Boxsters..I got stuck replacing my right front fender because I didn't know how to remove the carbon canister. After 30 minutes searching for it, found this thread and I removed it and removed the three screws holding the fender...THANKS!!! :renntech:

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  • 2 months later...
  • 6 months later...

I heard a loud snap as I locked the car last night. Checked to see where it might have come from, only to find that the fuel door was not locking.

I checked to see that the plastic catch was on the fuel door lid (see #5 in DYI, Ref. P/N 996.201.243.00). It was there.

Took the car to the dealer as it was still under CPO. The service writer checked checked for the guide rose (Ref. P/N 997.624.505.00) also in #5 in DYI.

The solenoid had knocked this off and it was sitting by the fuel cap.

He snapped it back in & all worked ok. He noted that this happens a Lot and people get suckered into replacing the solenoid when it was just the guide that pops out (and then the locking shaft doesn't align with the catch on the fuel door lid).

Anyway, if you think you solenoid has gone bad, this is worth checking.

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  • 1 year later...

I just did this job this weekend. Great write-up! Easy to follow. Also agree that the space where you need to engage the torx screws is *very* tight! Almost felt like a contortionist, trying to get both hands up there in order to screw/unscrew the actuator into place.

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  • 6 years later...
  • Admin
53 minutes ago, rhkwon said:

Guys how do you know if the actuator is working or not?  Does it make a sound when the key remote is presssed to lock the car?

 

:welcomeani:

 

When you lock the car the fuel cannot be opened - when you unlock the car it can be opened.
If you can open when the car is locked then it is either a bad solenoid or the pin actuator is broken off.

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I was able to fix mine just by replacing the black plastic ring that centers the locking rod.  The rod was moving but was retreating into the hole and not securing the door .  It turned out that a plastic bushing was missing.  See if the rod moves when you lock and unlock the car.  If it does, then that's probably all you need and it's a very quick and easy fix. If not, then it's probably the actuator.

 

This is what I bought to fix the problem. I hope your issue is as simple as that.

 

See "Guide Bushing for fuel door release rod"

https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search_2016.cgi?command=DWsearch&description=fuel+door

Edited by wyovino
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  • 7 months later...

My rose guide is missing so I have ordered a new one. Since I don’t have one I can not tell in what order it is assembled in regards to the emergency pull line little circle loop thing that goes to the actuator stick. So is this order correct:

 

1.  Attach rose guide

2.  Place door actuator “stick” through the emergency pull ring and then through the rose guide 

 

So the little ring is actually behind the rose guide?

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1 hour ago, rhkwon said:

My rose guide is missing so I have ordered a new one. Since I don’t have one I can not tell in what order it is assembled in regards to the emergency pull line little circle loop thing that goes to the actuator stick. So is this order correct:

 

1.  Attach rose guide

2.  Place door actuator “stick” through the emergency pull ring and then through the rose guide 

 

So the little ring is actually behind the rose guide?

 

Yes, that is correct.

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