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Brakes Not Releasing (Sticking)

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Bibz, from what I remember, the two pieces were extremely tight together, so I'd imagine that these two pieces are seized together. Once the lock nut is loosened, then the threded bar needs to be unscrewed from the connecting piece.

Regards, Colm.

Edited by CarMan356
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Hi, Quick update on my booster problem.

Couldn't unstick the connecting piece (adjuster nut) from the threaded booster unit so had to take out the whole lot... :( what a pain. Even with it all out and on the bench I still couldnt separate the parts even using heat!!!! In the end Ive decided to change booster for a new one (prob best all round anyway) and at the same time use new connection parts also.

Only thing is on contacting Main Dealer (Chester) they inform me that there is also a 'fix-it' kit Porsche sells which stops this problem happening, all at a cost of £35.36 + VAT. Has anyone any knowledge of this kit and what it includes, does it have any impact on how the booster and connecting parts go back together.? Sorry but Porsche guy didn't know!!!

Bit miffed with dealer because my car has full service and repair history with them, they even check the drain holes on servicing, but at no time have they mentioned an adaption to stop servo failure.......but its a safety feature, they are after all brakes and quite inportant for stopping the vehicle!!!



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  • 1 month later...
  • Moderators

The only thing I see it PET is a "modification kit seal brake booster" with a part number of 000 043 204 66. This kit is also mentioned in one of the TSBs. If you have a car made prior to September 13, 1999 this is the kit you need when installing the new style booster. This is also the TSB that says if you have a model year 1997 you also need to replace the brake pedal.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Hi, sorry for delay in posting. Fitted new servo with the new adaption kit and all has been well since.

The adaption kit fits quite easily and does improve some areas but does not address the original issue of water leaking in through the servo bolts as it doesn't cover these, water could still filter through and rust up the servos internal parts. All the kit basically does is form a gaiter tunnel which covers the whole of the connection rod area from the inner bulkhead to the outer bulkhead. This will stop the adjustment nut seizing, a problem I had with my unit, so would make adjustment easier. Is the kit worth the money? IMO not really as it duplicates parts you already have on your car and also parts that come with the new booster unit anyway.

Lessons learned from the experience?

Check your drain holes regularly, especially if you park under or near to trees with falling leaves. Where and how this is done can be found in your vehicle docs or via a search on this forum.

If you park on a hill for long periods of time, park facing uphill!

Happy motoring :D


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  • 4 months later...

Great DIY Article I just finished replacing my water filled Booster on my 99 Boxster. Just wanted to add one note... after replacing the Booster everything worked great except I had to extend the rod length by a couple of threads to get the brake lights to turn off.

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  • 1 year later...

This is a great DYI. Mine is 1999 and has exactly the same issues. Over the past few days, it has been below freezing here. Got in it this morning and it felt like I was driving with the emergency brake on. Bought it home, popped the hood and pulled back the carpeting round the power booster and heated it up with a heat gun. Everything was normal afterwords. I have another power booster coming this week and will be performing this procedure next Saturday. Mine is a left hand drive car so the brake lines from the master cylinder will have to be removed. But looks simple enough. Thanks for all the info!!! Randy :clapping: :clapping:

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  • 4 years later...

there is a kit that is available that seals the brake rod going from the cockpit to the booster. I put one on my 99 when I realized my brake booster had water in it. I chose to replace the booster and master cylinder while I was at it. its not an easy job but better than paying $800 to the dealer. I can tell you there is NO WAY you can install the kit without following the TSB exactly. Also, when I did mine rather than replacing the aluminum bar that goes from the brake pedal to the booster I used a dremel to machine away the "ridges" on the bar rather than replacing the complete bar.

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  • 4 months later...

Thread resurrection time. 1999 C2. I had a bad brake booster. Dealer wanted $1800.00 to fix so I came across this thread.

I ordered the booster and have installed it. I have bled the system thoroughly. Now, my brake lights are stuck on and the pedal has a too much travel.

I just don't know if I am adjusting the push rod correctly. Should I move it closer to the booster or the firewall? It is super frustrating!

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  • 2 years later...

I have used this DIY article twice now. Once with a 1999 Boxster and once with a 2004 S Special Edition. Thanks to Carman356 for posting it over 10 years ago. The most recent time, I recorded video as I replaced the Brake Booster. Here's the video in case it can help anyone out in the future:


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