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How to remove side panels in door to get to Window?


TXGold

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The driver side window on my newly purchased '02 TT is settling toward the back of the car. When driving above 40, there is wind noise between the front portion of the window close to where the top of the mirror meets the A pillar. The gap between the front side window and rear side window on the passenger side is 1/4" and on the driver side its 1/8". This causes the top portion of the two windows to hang up on each other when opening the door. I believe if I were able to get into the door and move the window forward it would aleve the issue. Porsche wants $350 to do it. Any tips are greatly appreciated.

Ryan

Edited by TXGold
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The driver side window on my newly purchased '02 TT is settling toward the back of the car. When driving above 40, there is wind noise between the front portion of the window close to where the top of the mirror meets the A pillar. The gap between the front side window and rear side window on the passenger side is 1/4" and on the driver side its 1/8". This causes the top portion of the two windows to hang up on each other when opening the door. I believe if I were able to get into the door and move the window forward it would aleve the issue. Porsche wants $350 to do it. Any tips are greatly appreciated.

Ryan

Ryan:

If your '02 TT has similar door panels to a Boxster, check out the following link. It has some very excellent photographs and detailed steps on how to remove the fasteners to get the door panel off.

The trickiest one is the plastic cover that is around and forward of the door latch. I found that in addition to the illustrated instructions on that point, that, once you have that piece off at the forwardmost portion of it, if you press down hard on top of the rearmost part and then rotate the piece, it will easily come off without breaking off that little tab. Study the photos and you will understand that little part and how it comes off.

Here's the link: http://www.ecoutez.net/boxster/door-panel-removal/

Good luck!

Regards, Maurice.

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The driver side window on my newly purchased '02 TT is settling toward the back of the car. When driving above 40, there is wind noise between the front portion of the window close to where the top of the mirror meets the A pillar. The gap between the front side window and rear side window on the passenger side is 1/4" and on the driver side its 1/8". This causes the top portion of the two windows to hang up on each other when opening the door. I believe if I were able to get into the door and move the window forward it would aleve the issue. Porsche wants $350 to do it. Any tips are greatly appreciated.

Ryan

Ryan:

If your '02 TT has similar door panels to a Boxster, check out the following link. It has some very excellent photographs and detailed steps on how to remove the fasteners to get the door panel off.

The trickiest one is the plastic cover that is around and forward of the door latch. I found that in addition to the illustrated instructions on that point, that, once you have that piece off at the forwardmost portion of it, if you press down hard on top of the rearmost part and then rotate the piece, it will easily come off without breaking off that little tab. Study the photos and you will understand that little part and how it comes off.

Here's the link: http://www.ecoutez.net/boxster/door-panel-removal/

Good luck!

Regards, Maurice.

Muchos Gracias Compadre. I am thinking this may just be something I let Porsche do. I can't tell if its adjustment screws on the bottom of the door, or something I need to behind the panel. Again, thanks for the help. Any other tips or links or appreciated.

Ryan

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The driver side window on my newly purchased '02 TT is settling toward the back of the car. When driving above 40, there is wind noise between the front portion of the window close to where the top of the mirror meets the A pillar. The gap between the front side window and rear side window on the passenger side is 1/4" and on the driver side its 1/8". This causes the top portion of the two windows to hang up on each other when opening the door. I believe if I were able to get into the door and move the window forward it would aleve the issue. Porsche wants $350 to do it. Any tips are greatly appreciated.

Ryan

Ryan:

If your '02 TT has similar door panels to a Boxster, check out the following link. It has some very excellent photographs and detailed steps on how to remove the fasteners to get the door panel off.

The trickiest one is the plastic cover that is around and forward of the door latch. I found that in addition to the illustrated instructions on that point, that, once you have that piece off at the forwardmost portion of it, if you press down hard on top of the rearmost part and then rotate the piece, it will easily come off without breaking off that little tab. Study the photos and you will understand that little part and how it comes off.

Here's the link: http://www.ecoutez.net/boxster/door-panel-removal/

Good luck!

Regards, Maurice.

Muchos Gracias Compadre. I am thinking this may just be something I let Porsche do. I can't tell if its adjustment screws on the bottom of the door, or something I need to behind the panel. Again, thanks for the help. Any other tips or links or appreciated.

Ryan

Ryan:

From what you describe, it sounds as if all you need is to adjust the window angle. Adjustment is provided by means of two clamping jaws that hold the window, one fore and one aft. Once you take off the panel, it's an easy matter to access both of the clamping jaws (by lowering the window [for the front] or raising [for the rear] to the appropriate height so that the clamping jaws sit where you can see them and adjust them). It's just a matter of loosening one torx screw and it gives you 4/10 of an inch of adjustment.

When you re-tighten the Torx screw, the torque setting is 7 ft./lbs.

Once you remove the door panel, it will be easy to assess whether one of these clamping jaws has gotten loose and is the cause of your problem. If not, you could button it back up in 5 minutes.

Removing the door panel and the speaker and peeling back the sealing membrane is not nearly as difficult as it sounds. I removed my first door panel in about 30 minutes, the second one took my 5 minutes to remove and 3 minutes to re-assemble.

Note: When I peel back the sealing membrane, I leave the bottom edge still fastened (with its original glue/black goo) and just let the upper four fifths of the membrane drape down. That eliminates having to line it up again when done.

You could save yourself $350 plus the time of going to and waiting at the dealer, it just depends on your preference, amigo.

Regards, Maurice.

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It is my understanding that the two adjustment screws can be accesed on the bottom of the respective door, without the need to remove the side panels.

Ryan:

There are two adjustment screws (E6 Torx) that are accessible trhough two holes in the bottom of the door. The holes are positioned near the bottom of the window regulator rails, fore and aft.

The problem with this approach is that if your "misalignment" occured suddenly, it was most likely caused by a loosened clamping jaw, and that can only be remedied by removing the door panel.

I assumed from your original post that it just happened, not that it gradually got worse, although even that can sometimes be attributed to a loosening clamping jaw.

You have nothing to lose by attempting to turn the height adjuster screws through the two holes in the bottom of the door first.

Here are some photos that should help orient you if you are going to attempt the adjustment without removing the door panel:post-6627-1189707901_thumb.jpg

NOTE: The height adjuster screws are not perpendicular to the door sill, rather, they are slanted at an angle similar to the rear edge of the door. The green arrow is pointing to the head of the screw in this photo of the front window regulator rail and clamping jaw.

Here is a photo of the rear window regulator rail and clamping jaw:post-6627-1189708261_thumb.jpg

Again, the green arrow is pointing to the screw. The red arrow is pointing to the black rubber plug that must be removed to access the screw with your torx screwdriver.

Here is a photo of the front window regulator rail, clamping jaw and rubber plugs at the front of the door:post-6627-1189709196_thumb.jpg

The red arrow is pointing to the black rubber plug at the front that must be removed.

The yellow arrow is pointing to the edge of the "other" black rubber plug which is for accessing the bottom leg of the window regulator rail which is used if removing/replacing the complete regulator assembly.

The white arrow is pointing to the clamping rail screw (in case the adjustment screws don't solve your problem and you should end up removing the door panel).

NOTE: There are four (4) black rubber plugs under the door. The ones you want to remove are the two most outboard ones (as shown by the red arrows), NOT the one shown by the yellow arrow (There is another "yellow arrow" one at the rear that is not in any of the photos..

The correct ones are also closer to the outside door skin.

One last note: To access the adjustment screws, make sure that the window is completely lowered. At that point, each adjustment screw will be about 3 inches away from the access hole. In the last photo, the window has been lowered.

Regards, Maurice.

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  • 2 years later...
Does anyone know where these instructions can still be found? It appears this link is no longer valid.

http://www.ecoutez.net/boxster/door-panel-removal/

I need to replace the driver window drop down sensor on the outer door handle

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

b

b:

Here is a link for detailed instructions, similar to the "broken link", and with additional details for replacing the window regulator in case your sensor is not the only repair needed:

http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/window/

Regards, Maurice.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have both the wind noise as well as the problem with the window when fully up is interfering with the stationary rear side window. In fact I have to lower the driver side window just to open or close the door otherwise I'm afraid the glass will shatter hitting the rear glass.

Time to tear the door panels apart.

[Edit]

Took the door apart, looks like the rear window clamp was too loose and allowed the window to drop down about 1/3 of an inch. That tilts the window back enough that it was hitting the stationary window at the top when fully up. I raised it up and re-tightened the clamp and it looks good now when closed. There is an even gap of 1/4" from top to bottom.

Edited by 911dark
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Maurice. Thank you very much for you detailed tips and help. Have a great weekend, and I'll try to remember I'm having fun this weekend when I'm busting up my knuckles:).

Reprising an old thread, but did this help alleviate wind noise?

If so, what adjustments were made?

Thanks

There are a number of adjustments that you can make (some without taking the door panel off) which will reposition the window against the gaskets on the sides and on the top. The final position of the window can be adjusted up, down, forward, backward, and inboard/outboard. That inevitably reduces wind noise.

There is a "paper sheet" test described in the Bentley manual and in the shop manual which will help you determine if you window is correctly positioned.

Regards, Maurice.

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  • 2 weeks later...
My passenger side window does not "dip" like it supposed to when you touch the door handle.

Can someone please remind me of the procedure to "remind" the window memory what it is supposed to do?

If that doesn't resolve it, what is the problem?

The way to do this is to hold the window button in the down position until the window is all the way down and hold it for 10 seconds,,,then repeat in the up position....but this is not likely your issue...you should search "microswitch"

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  • 1 month later...
My passenger side window does not "dip" like it supposed to when you touch the door handle.

Can someone please remind me of the procedure to "remind" the window memory what it is supposed to do?

If that doesn't resolve it, what is the problem?

First started with the above problem, it has gotten worse and NOW:

Passenger window has decided to make a really cool crunching sound when going up and down. Obviously it is the window regulator cable.

Recommendations?????? What part, where to buy, etc? I saw a previous thread about how to replace it, step-by-step.

Thanks in advance.

D

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My passenger side window does not "dip" like it supposed to when you touch the door handle.

Can someone please remind me of the procedure to "remind" the window memory what it is supposed to do?

If that doesn't resolve it, what is the problem?

First started with the above problem, it has gotten worse and NOW:

Passenger window has decided to make a really cool crunching sound when going up and down. Obviously it is the window regulator cable.

Recommendations?????? What part, where to buy, etc? I saw a previous thread about how to replace it, step-by-step.

Thanks in advance.

D

D:

Your driver's side window probably has a stretched cable.

You passenger's side window now probably has a frayed/unraveling cable.

The good news is that once you remove the driver's side door panel, the passenger side will be a piece of cake.

Here is a link to a thread explaining the problem with the non-dipping window on the driver's side:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ic=17810&hl

Here's another link contained in that thread for some further reading:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ic=16269&hl

Note that since yours is a 996 you must make sure to locate the stop at the base of the front leg of the regulator in the correct one of two slots, otherwise your window height when open will not be correct.

You can buy the OEM part for about $214 at autohausaz.com, with free shipping and excellent service in my experience: http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.a...dow%20Regulator

You can also try Sunset, at the top of each RennTech page.

Regards, Maurice.

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  • 5 weeks later...
Just an update:

1. Ordered a replacement regulator for $137 from: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

2. Part works PERFECTLY!!!! and I do not miss that crunching sound from the old regulator and I was able to isolate a rattle that I had in the door. WIN WIN today!

Good work! And that price is quite excellent too!

Doing it yourself: Priceless! :clapping:

Regards, Maurice.

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  • 10 months later...

After renewing the window regulator, my window, in the open position, doesn't drop fully into the door. Instead, there is still an inch to an inch and a half left of the window above the sill line. My driver's side retracts fully without any problem. The one-touch auto feature works well, though. Only that the window doesn't open fully. What did I miss or do wrong?

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Strange thing too is that after renewing the window regulator, the window still doesn't drop far enough to clear the outside rubber sill. When I pull either the outside or inside door handles slowly, I hear the switches activate the window relay before the door is released, and the window drops, but not enough. This is why I changed the regulators, but it seems that it's still the same. I'm puzzled.

Can anyone help?

Thanks!

Edited by 996noob
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After renewing the window regulator, my window, in the open position, doesn't drop fully into the door. Instead, there is still an inch to an inch and a half left of the window above the sill line. My driver's side retracts fully without any problem. The one-touch auto feature works well, though. Only that the window doesn't open fully. What did I miss or do wrong?

Noob:

What you missed was that there are two positions (slots) for the bump stop that limits the travel of the window at the completely down position. The correct slot position is different between the 911's and the Boxsters and it's the exact same regulator, with the same part number, for both models. If you don't install the bump stop in the correct position, the window will not travel all the way down so as to "disappear" inside the door on a 911.

Do a search here and you will find photos of the correct position for the lower bump stop. I posted that about two years ago, but I can't find the link right now. If I find it first, I'll post it.

Regards Maurice.

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