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Solenoid Clicks, Starter Doesn’t Spin. On Charge 24 Hours


pk2

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Hello,

Before you say “new battery”, read on.

This battery worked fine prior to current woes. Drawing it way down listening to the radio while I worked on it, it would recharge in about 20 mins. (most recently, about 2 weeks ago). And the battery is 2 yrs. Into a 6 yr. rating. (Also, cleaned battery terminals inside and out)

Changes since it last ran; I am installing a super charger, the blowers in (not plumbed, just bolted in place), put new plugs in and removed the air box ducting (from the filter box to the throttle body) and a “J” hose (think it’s a case breather). The only other change was the weather, we got a little rain and a small amount may have gotten in the engine compartment. In short, nothing that I can see that would give me my symptoms.

When I twist the key, there’s a healthy “clack/click” I assume is from the solenoid doing its thing. Holding the key in start position, I can see my interior lights modestly. But no cranking. (were it my battery, or the starter jammed I would expect to see the light dim a lot.)

Mt immediate thought is the starter is somehow not getting any juice. Thoughts?

P.K.

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Bad ignition switch?

Bad safety-switch in the clutch?

Good ideas, but my origional post need some updating...changes the landscape;

The starter is turning the motor veeerrryy slowy till it poops without a whirrr or grrrr.

Twisting the key to start does clack the solenoid acompanied by a 1 volt drop measured on the battery.

Thanks, PK

Edited by pk2
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What are the open circuit voltage of the battery? What is the voltage drop while cranking? Is it possible that you didn't reconnect a ground path?

Thanks for the reply

Good questions all. First my DMM is flakey but it usually reads about 1 volt over (that or it’s off the map). A reading right off the battery right now is 13.8v, ignition on 13.6v, cranking position immediate 12.6v. drifting down to a stable 11.6v. if I hold it in the crank position for about 3 seconds.

Don’t know if that is answer you were looking for. I don’t know if my meter is off by a volt or if its proportionally off. At this level though I don’t think it matters (could be dropping 2 v. or 1.8 v. on crank) .

Ground straps are something I’ve thought allot about that. The obvious starting point is the one is on the starter itself. Pain to get at…

If it were a corroded lead, would I get the same voltage readings (I.E. volts are there but the amps aren’t) right of the starter or would it read say 6v.

Regards, PK

P.S. Can you tell I’m a bit of a electrical noggin head with electricity.

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It's your battery, replace it with Optima gel. Once battery drains all the way they just dont hold the charge like they used to, w/ a new battery I bet she will start right up.

Hello,

Before you say “new battery”, read on.

This battery worked fine prior to current woes. Drawing it way down listening to the radio while I worked on it, it would recharge in about 20 mins. (most recently, about 2 weeks ago). And the battery is 2 yrs. Into a 6 yr. rating. (Also, cleaned battery terminals inside and out)

Changes since it last ran; I am installing a super charger, the blowers in (not plumbed, just bolted in place), put new plugs in and removed the air box ducting (from the filter box to the throttle body) and a “J” hose (think it’s a case breather). The only other change was the weather, we got a little rain and a small amount may have gotten in the engine compartment. In short, nothing that I can see that would give me my symptoms.

When I twist the key, there’s a healthy “clack/click” I assume is from the solenoid doing its thing. Holding the key in start position, I can see my interior lights modestly. But no cranking. (were it my battery, or the starter jammed I would expect to see the light dim a lot.)

Mt immediate thought is the starter is somehow not getting any juice. Thoughts?

P.K.

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It's your battery, replace it with Optima gel. Once battery drains all the way they just dont hold the charge like they used to, w/ a new battery I bet she will start right up.

Hello,

Before you say “new battery”, read on.

This battery worked fine prior to current woes. Drawing it way down listening to the radio while I worked on it, it would recharge in about 20 mins. (most recently, about 2 weeks ago). And the battery is 2 yrs. Into a 6 yr. rating. (Also, cleaned battery terminals inside and out)

Changes since it last ran; I am installing a super charger, the blowers in (not plumbed, just bolted in place), put new plugs in and removed the air box ducting (from the filter box to the throttle body) and a “J” hose (think it’s a case breather). The only other change was the weather, we got a little rain and a small amount may have gotten in the engine compartment. In short, nothing that I can see that would give me my symptoms.

When I twist the key, there’s a healthy “clack/click” I assume is from the solenoid doing its thing. Holding the key in start position, I can see my interior lights modestly. But no cranking. (were it my battery, or the starter jammed I would expect to see the light dim a lot.)

Mt immediate thought is the starter is somehow not getting any juice. Thoughts?

P.K.

Thanks for your input. It works!

The problem is a bad ground connection from the body to the engine. I figured this out by running one of the jumper cables from the negative terminal of my battery to the engine block, turned the key and Viola!! Fired right up!

The ground strap from the engine to the body should be pretty significant and easy to find and thus repair. Ought to be

Thanks to all who shared this little saga, big relief to me.

PK

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Cool ! I'm glad you got her going again PK.

Good luck with your new turbo,,,

Regards Jun

It's your battery, replace it with Optima gel. Once battery drains all the way they just dont hold the charge like they used to, w/ a new battery I bet she will start right up.

Hello,

Before you say “new battery”, read on.

This battery worked fine prior to current woes. Drawing it way down listening to the radio while I worked on it, it would recharge in about 20 mins. (most recently, about 2 weeks ago). And the battery is 2 yrs. Into a 6 yr. rating. (Also, cleaned battery terminals inside and out)

Changes since it last ran; I am installing a super charger, the blowers in (not plumbed, just bolted in place), put new plugs in and removed the air box ducting (from the filter box to the throttle body) and a “J” hose (think it’s a case breather). The only other change was the weather, we got a little rain and a small amount may have gotten in the engine compartment. In short, nothing that I can see that would give me my symptoms.

When I twist the key, there’s a healthy “clack/click” I assume is from the solenoid doing its thing. Holding the key in start position, I can see my interior lights modestly. But no cranking. (were it my battery, or the starter jammed I would expect to see the light dim a lot.)

Mt immediate thought is the starter is somehow not getting any juice. Thoughts?

P.K.

Thanks for your input. It works!

The problem is a bad ground connection from the body to the engine. I figured this out by running one of the jumper cables from the negative terminal of my battery to the engine block, turned the key and Viola!! Fired right up!

The ground strap from the engine to the body should be pretty significant and easy to find and thus repair. Ought to be

Thanks to all who shared this little saga, big relief to me.

PK

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Cool ! I'm glad you got her going again PK.

Good luck with your new turbo,,,

Regards Jun

THanks Jim, I'm battle hardend enough now that I think the rest of the install will be a cinch.

I knew it was no coincidence. Forgot to throw into the “starter motor woes” equation that I’d removed the air pump in order to have better access to the SC plumbing from the top…and, inadvertently, the ground strap which shares the mounting bracket. Tightened it back on and away!

Duh,

Peter

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