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Hello everyone, I'm new to this forum and to even owning a Boxster (so excited). I have a 97 and the reason that I'm posting is that I just started having problems with the top. It has worked flawlessly through it's cycles - for the few months that I've owned it anyway - until now.

The issue: when attempting to raise the top up now, the cover will open just fine, but then only one side of the top begins to ascend with the other not budging at all. The first time I did it, it raised until I heard a pop and when i jumped in my seat and looked back, it was cock-eyed. I immediately put it back down and have now tried a few times to raise it again, without letting it get to the point of making that popping noise again. As soon as it pauses, I stop it and put it back down. I've peeked in there when it is raised slightly, but don't see anything that jumps out at me (though I don't know if I'd know to be honest). Anyway, any and all help would be wonderful.

thanks,

Joe

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...just started having problems with the top. It has worked flawlessly through it's cycles - for the few months that I've owned it anyway - until now.

...Anyway, any and all help would be wonderful.

thanks,

Joe

Your transmissions are most likely out of sink and the probable reason is the cables are bad, You can tell pretty quick by looking at the drive cables emanating from the drive motor in the back, middle top well. If they are smooth surfaced (as opposed to a bumpy surface) they have an inherant weeknes, there are tricks to remedy it. Once that's done you'll need to resinc the transmissions, not to hard in that yours aren’t to far out but it can be bewildering on that yr, if you screw up.

One of these forums either here or 986 forum or ... there's a whole section on this issue alone, lots of threads on everything related top problems.

Regards, PK

Edited by pk2
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thanks for your reply, after reading through other posts again, I've learned how to put the cover in the "service" position in order to see underneath, but I can't seem to locate the cables to see whether they're smooth or bumpy etc. I did notice that I had the newer white plastic ball on both sides, but that was about it so far. I've also tried to raise the top again just for a second to try to give it more room underneath and noticed that the side that is lagging is not raising at all - not even moving. Don't know if that helps at all.

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thanks for your reply, after reading through other posts again, I've learned how to put the cover in the "service" position in order to see underneath, but I can't seem to locate the cables to see whether they're smooth or bumpy etc. I did notice that I had the newer white plastic ball on both sides, but that was about it so far. I've also tried to raise the top again just for a second to try to give it more room underneath and noticed that the side that is lagging is not raising at all - not even moving. Don't know if that helps at all.

Joe:

To locate the cables, look on either side of the convertible top motor (which is covered by a thin black plastic housing). The top motor is located just forward of the third brake light, just below the underside of the clamshell when the clamshell is closed down tight.

To get a good look and access to the top motor, you must raise the clamshell to its 45 degree position, which gives you the most access. If you can't raise the clamshell safely to the 45 degree position with the button, then you will have to disconnect the two black pushrods attached to the clamshell so that you can operate the clamshell manually.

There are two cables (left and right) and they are connected (inserted and held in with a sort of a u-shaped, double walled, double leg clip) to the top motor on either side of it.

After you verify which type of cable you have, as pk2 mentioned above, then pull up each clip in turn, and that will allow you to pull the end of each cable (pull outboard) out of the motor for inspection.

If you have read the other threads, you know you should be looking for the inner (speedometer type) metal cable to be protruding from the end of the black sheath.

Have a look and post again. We will go from there.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by 1schoir
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Okay, so I've finally had a chance to try to get those cables out. I opened the clamshell and pulled the u clips off of each side where the cables meet the top motor. The problem is that I can't get the cable out....they pull back, but the speedometer part in the center of each stays attached. Not sure what to do now.

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by the way, the cables are not smooth either, they're slightly textured with a criss cross pattern, if that helps anything

Joe:

Okay, you are making progress.

It actually may be a good sign that your inner metal cables do not pull out when you tug on them. There are instances where those inner cables break or fray in the middle of the black plastic outer sheath but that doesn't appear to be your case. Also, the fact that you have the textured cables means that you have the later, updated, improved cables and those are less likely to stretch.

Here is a photo, courtesy of Tool Pants, that shows both types of cables (old style on left, and new textured style on right). post-6627-1193265067_thumb.jpg Also, note that the right cable must have broken or frayed inside the sheath, which is why it is sticking out that much. The left cable shows that the inner metal cable is not sticking out far enough. What happens in the case that the inner cable does not stick out by 3/4 of an inch is that the inner metal cable does not engage in the motor's output sleeve, and thus does not turn, which in turn does not turn the transmission and V-lever on that side.

Read this thread, which contains this and other photos by Tool Pants: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...666&hl=saga

What you must do next is to determine whether you have 3/4 of an inch of the inner metal cable sticking out from where the black plastic sheath and its metal ferrule cap ends. If you don't have it on BOTH sides, that will indicate your problem.

If you don't have 3/4 of an inch sticking out, you can either buy a new cable (or cables) or, you can perform the minor surgery described by Tool Pants in yet another thread to cut the black plastic sheath back so as to get the correct protrusion of the inner metal cable.

If you have the correct 3/4 sticking out on each side, the problem lies either in one of your transmissions or something much more simple and obvious, as follows:

Inspect the connections at the front and rear arms of each V-lever to make sure that either your plastic caps (on the end of the rod arms that are connected to the frame of the convertible canvas top) have not "popped off" or have not broken or split apart, or that the black hydraulic pushrods have not somehow popped off the V-lever or their other attachment point on the clamshell (body paint-colored) support arm.

Measure how much is sticking out, inspect the above-mentioned parts and report back.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by 1schoir
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