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Evo Shift Link Install


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I want to install the evo billet shiftlink by swapping out the stock plastic one. I know you remove the center console to get access to the linkage...What's next??? I have found to much conflicting info and I don't want to screw things up. How do you remove the stock piece and put in the EVO billet piece...Install guide, pics or detailed steps would be great. Thanks.

PS: Still using the stock shifter... :notworthy:

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Since I have the shift cable adjustment tool I would do it with the tool. All you are doing is replacing the black plastic cable connector with the EVO metal one. The dealer uses the tool when replacing the plastic cable connectors so there is no reason not to use it when putting in a metal one.

Remove the plastic one and put in the metal one. Snap on the tool to center the shift lever. Tighten the set screw(s) for the metal one that holds it in place on the end of the shift cable. Your done and the shift cable is exactly where it was before you started.

I would do it a different way if you were not keeping the stock shift lever.

I could have to think how you would do it without the tool, other than by a bit of trial and error.

If someone in the San Jose area has one contact me and we will take pictures of putting it in.

post-21-1081445313_thumb.jpg

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Tool Pants:

First off thanks for the reply. I don't have the tool so that won't be an option. Looking at the picture I see two linkages...1 in black plastic and the other in light blue plastic. Was I suppose to by two of the billet linkages and replace both plastic ones??? Or is the Blue one for reverse gear???

How do I remove the stock plastic piece??? Are there lock rings or something that need to be removed and the cable pulls out???

Thanks.

Edited by rockitman
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Blue is for reverse. You will not be touching that one. The EVO product will not work with the blue cable connector in any event. The black connector is the one you replace with the metal one.

I took pictures of an oem shift lever that was removed for a B&M install so you can see how the black cable connector is connected to the end of the shift lever. It is just a ball joint and comes apart with enough pressure. You can pop it apart with your fingers or lever it off with a large screw driver. If you have problems popping the EVO unit onto the ball joint at the end of the shift lever then you remove the 4 nuts for the shift tower and flip the unit on the side and give the EVO unit a wack with a soft hammer.

You first will need to remove the end of the shift cable from the end of the plastic cable connector. Count how many notches are empty first so if you give up you can everything back exactly where it was. There is a spring loaded thing you push to the front - then lift up on the cable to remove it from the connector. None of this will make sense until you remove the console and you can see the parts.

If you have the EVO unit how many set screws are used to lock the unit to the shift cable. I can only see one on the EVO site since I cannot rotate the unit.

shift_oem3.jpg

shift_oem4.jpg

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Thanks Tool Pants...I just ordered the EVO link last night, I will let you know how many set screws there are when I receive it. I will also photograph the install as best I can to document the entire process for others to use if desired....

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So what does this EVO billet shift link give you?

Is it just more robust that the stock plastic one or does it provide some sort of extra benefit to the shift mechanism?

Sorry, I just can't see what the point of it is.

Any words of wisdom would help?

Cheers,

Berny

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So what does this EVO billet shift link give you?

Is it just more robust that the stock plastic one or does it provide some sort of extra benefit to the shift mechanism?

Sorry, I just can't see what the point of it is.

Any words of wisdom would help?

Cheers,

Berny

More robust means it won't break so you eliminate the risk of it breaking when you are out in the car and requiring a tow to the shop.

I have heard that installing it does improve the shift feel making it more solid and direct since the billet piece does not flex and give like the chincey plastic one does. I will confirm that fact one I receive my piece and install it. Seems like a no brainer mod to me... :lightbulb:

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Hmmm....

Thanks rockitman. However I am still not convinced. I would like to read other peoples response who have this thing fitted before I take the plunge. Saying that, I guess there must be a good reason for them going to the trouble of manufacturing a billet version ;)

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Hmmm....

Thanks rockitman. However  I am still not convinced. I would like to read other peoples response who have this thing fitted before I take the plunge. Saying that, I guess there must be a good reason for them going to the trouble of manufacturing a billet version ;)

I will post my impressions along with my DYI once the part comes in and I do the install...

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Not sure about the benefits of the shiftlink alone as I installed the B&M SSK at the same time. Combined with the B&M, it has the same precision feel as a bolt action rifle. IMHO, the main benefit of the billet link is the replacement of the plastic connector that has left a few others stranded on the roadside.

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Hey guys... there was only one set screw on my shift link.  Wish I had a camera when I did my install.

FYI:

Just received my shift link piece. It is red anodized where it connects to the bottom of the shifter and it has 2 set screws...I will be tackling the install this weekend and will try to capture the install in pictures as best I can...

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  • 6 months later...

I just installed one of these this weekend along with the B&M short shifter. Had I read this thread prior to install, I would have taken the suggestion to install the shift link using the Porshe shift adjustment tool on the stock shifter. It might take a little extra time mounting/unmounting the shiftlink on the stock shifter but it takes all of the guesswork out of shift adjustment.

As it turns out (on my EVO Shiftlink at least), the shift cable would not fit as deeply into the shiftlink socket as it would on the stock plastic shift cable connector. As a result, marking the cable position with the stock cable connector in place did me little good when it came time to install the EVO unit.

Another suggestion: Get the length of the shiftlink correct and the lock nut tightened before bolting down the shifter. It's hell to get to that lock nut once the shifter is mounted!

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Thanks Tool Pants -- as always this board is a treasure trove of good technical info.

A bit off-topic for this thread, but I have a question about the short shifter. After installation, shifting requires noticeably more effort (not just getting it into reverse). The effort reduces once the engine reaches normal operating temp, but it's still there. I expected some increased effort but not this. The best way for me to describe it is there is a definite "chunk" when engaging any of the forward gears, particularly 5th and 6th. The gears stay engaged (don't pop out) and aside from the "chunk" there is no difficulty shifting into any gear. The "chunk" may have been there with the stock shifter but I never noticed it.

What are the symptoms of a poorly adjusted shift linkage? I always assumed I would have problems on one end of the shift or the other -- 1st, 3rd, and 5th versus 2nd, 4th, and 6th. Are there other symptoms?

Edited by Coaster
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  • 3 years later...

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