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Strange window issue.


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Well after having the window adjusted at a local service place and checking all the gaps and measurements myself I still have a sounds of rushing air just over my left shoulder. Almost sounds like the door is partly open. I have even tried the piece of paper being shut in the door to see if it pull out too easy around the different parts of the window but it looks and feels great. Is there anything else out there I should try? Also after all this now when I put the window down I hear a "clunk"/"thunk" when the window "hits" bottom. Any advise would be great. Thanks in advance.

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Well after having the window adjusted at a local service place and checking all the gaps and measurements myself I still have a sounds of rushing air just over my left shoulder. Almost sounds like the door is partly open. I have even tried the piece of paper being shut in the door to see if it pull out too easy around the different parts of the window but it looks and feels great. Is there anything else out there I should try? Also after all this now when I put the window down I hear a "clunk"/"thunk" when the window "hits" bottom. Any advise would be great. Thanks in advance.

Joel:

Sorry to hear that your wind noise is still not gone, and worse yet, that you had to take it to the local service place.

Is it possible that your door itself is misaligned? Measure the gaps between the door to the front fender, between the door and the sill, and between the door and the rear quarter panel on both sides of the car. The gaps should all be between 4 and 5 mm.

Compare the measurements that you get between the passenger's side door and the driver's side door and see if the driver's side door is "off".

Also check to see if the driver's side door vertical surface is absolutely flush with the vertical surface of the rear quarter panel. If the door's surface protrudes even slightly, that might cause wind noise at the window.

There are a few adjustments that can be made to get the door to fit just right, and the easiest one to make is the adjustment to the striker that is bolted to the rear quarter panel by means of two large screws (it's the flattened u-shaped chrome part on the forward face of the rear quarter panel).

Before you try to make that adjustment, check to see if there is any play in that striker, as that is the most logical place to get a little loose and cause a misalignment.

The other adjusting points are at the front hinges, but they are a little more involved and much easier to mess up. You have to have a way to support the door if you loosen those, and there is a special door panel support dolly that body shops use that make that process much, much easier.

I'm not sure about that clunking noise.

Regards, Maurice.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Maurice,

After much work I have found out that yes the door does stick slightly out at the top edge so that is a major source of my wind noise. Now I am working on adjusting it. The only issue is I don't seem to have the right tool to loosen the bolt holding the door at the top. There is not enough room for my torx socket and ratchet to fit in there. Any clue as to where to find a tool to loose them or will I have to remove the door to get at them? Thanks in advance.

Joel

Well after having the window adjusted at a local service place and checking all the gaps and measurements myself I still have a sounds of rushing air just over my left shoulder. Almost sounds like the door is partly open. I have even tried the piece of paper being shut in the door to see if it pull out too easy around the different parts of the window but it looks and feels great. Is there anything else out there I should try? Also after all this now when I put the window down I hear a "clunk"/"thunk" when the window "hits" bottom. Any advise would be great. Thanks in advance.

Joel:

Sorry to hear that your wind noise is still not gone, and worse yet, that you had to take it to the local service place.

Is it possible that your door itself is misaligned? Measure the gaps between the door to the front fender, between the door and the sill, and between the door and the rear quarter panel on both sides of the car. The gaps should all be between 4 and 5 mm.

Compare the measurements that you get between the passenger's side door and the driver's side door and see if the driver's side door is "off".

Also check to see if the driver's side door vertical surface is absolutely flush with the vertical surface of the rear quarter panel. If the door's surface protrudes even slightly, that might cause wind noise at the window.

There are a few adjustments that can be made to get the door to fit just right, and the easiest one to make is the adjustment to the striker that is bolted to the rear quarter panel by means of two large screws (it's the flattened u-shaped chrome part on the forward face of the rear quarter panel).

Before you try to make that adjustment, check to see if there is any play in that striker, as that is the most logical place to get a little loose and cause a misalignment.

The other adjusting points are at the front hinges, but they are a little more involved and much easier to mess up. You have to have a way to support the door if you loosen those, and there is a special door panel support dolly that body shops use that make that process much, much easier.

I'm not sure about that clunking noise.

Regards, Maurice.

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Maurice,

After much work I have found out that yes the door does stick slightly out at the top edge so that is a major source of my wind noise. Now I am working on adjusting it. The only issue is I don't seem to have the right tool to loosen the bolt holding the door at the top. There is not enough room for my torx socket and ratchet to fit in there. Any clue as to where to find a tool to loose them or will I have to remove the door to get at them? Thanks in advance.

Joel

Joel:

Here are two websites that sell specialty tools: http://www.metalnerd.com/cat05.htm

and http://www.zdmak.com

The first one looks like it has a tool made specifically for this purpose. Look at Part MN6525 - Hinge Ratchet Kit with Specialty Bits, about 3/4 of the way down the page.

Maybe after you look at that tool, you can devise your own version with either a box end metric wrench which would grab and turn your torx bit (out of its socket), or a ratcheting box end wrench that would operate the same way.

Before you try to loosen the fasteners, make sure that you mark the outlines of where the fastened plates are on the body so that you have a reference point. Also, if you don't have one of those body shop door dollies available (not many people do), be sure to devise some way of supporting the door so that you can control its movement once you loosen the fastener.

Remember, there is a lot of weight hanging way out there when the door is not supported by the striker plate (when the door is closed), and it takes a very small adjustment to achieve the desired effect.

From your description, I am assuming that the forward top surface of the door (the part of the door nearest the rear of the front fender, just below the bottom of the window when the window is fully raised) is the surface that is sticking out slightly, correct?

Regards, Maurice.

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Maurice,

I'll take a look at those sites. As for the question you posed at the end you are correct that the forward top surface of the door is the issue. Thanks

Joel

Maurice,

After much work I have found out that yes the door does stick slightly out at the top edge so that is a major source of my wind noise. Now I am working on adjusting it. The only issue is I don't seem to have the right tool to loosen the bolt holding the door at the top. There is not enough room for my torx socket and ratchet to fit in there. Any clue as to where to find a tool to loose them or will I have to remove the door to get at them? Thanks in advance.

Joel

Joel:

Here are two websites that sell specialty tools: http://www.metalnerd.com/cat05.htm

and http://www.zdmak.com

The first one looks like it has a tool made specifically for this purpose. Look at Part MN6525 - Hinge Ratchet Kit with Specialty Bits, about 3/4 of the way down the page.

Maybe after you look at that tool, you can devise your own version with either a box end metric wrench which would grab and turn your torx bit (out of its socket), or a ratcheting box end wrench that would operate the same way.

Before you try to loosen the fasteners, make sure that you mark the outlines of where the fastened plates are on the body so that you have a reference point. Also, if you don't have one of those body shop door dollies available (not many people do), be sure to devise some way of supporting the door so that you can control its movement once you loosen the fastener.

Remember, there is a lot of weight hanging way out there when the door is not supported by the striker plate (when the door is closed), and it takes a very small adjustment to achieve the desired effect.

From your description, I am assuming that the forward top surface of the door (the part of the door nearest the rear of the front fender, just below the bottom of the window when the window is fully raised) is the surface that is sticking out slightly, correct?

Regards, Maurice.

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