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carendt242

alternator removal - help

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once again, i agreed to help my friend work on his boxster (sans manual.) after checking the battery voltage, it looks like the alternator or voltage regulator is bad. i dug in but i'm stuck.

post-7824-1204844902_thumb.jpg

the green circle is a bolt on the deflection roller. i'm assuming i need to take this off to get to the alternator. however, the bolt will not come out. i turned it for about an hour today and, after coming out 1/2" or so, it doesn't seem to be coming ou anymore (it will turn.) rather than waste another hour, i thought i'd ask before turning it more. should the bolt come all the way out?

my other question: can i get away w/ just removing the deflection roller (assuming that bolt comes out) or should i relieve the belt via the tensioner? is the yellow circle the belt tensioner?

any help is appreciated.

thanks,

chuck

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once again, i agreed to help my friend work on his boxster (sans manual.) after checking the battery voltage, it looks like the alternator or voltage regulator is bad. i dug in but i'm stuck.

post-7824-1204844902_thumb.jpg

the green circle is a bolt on the deflection roller. i'm assuming i need to take this off to get to the alternator. however, the bolt will not come out. i turned it for about an hour today and, after coming out 1/2" or so, it doesn't seem to be coming ou anymore (it will turn.) rather than waste another hour, i thought i'd ask before turning it more. should the bolt come all the way out?

my other question: can i get away w/ just removing the deflection roller (assuming that bolt comes out) or should i relieve the belt via the tensioner? is the yellow circle the belt tensioner?

any help is appreciated.

thanks,

chuck

Chuck:

On a 986, you are only supposed to be able to loosen the bolt that you have circled in green by three (3) turns. Then, you must tap the bolt with a soft-faced hammer so as to loosen the bushing in the alternator arm. You have to continue tapping that bolt and bushing until the alternator can be slid off the bracket easily.

Then, after you remove the lower alternator bolt (about 7 o'clock on the face of the alternator), you can lift the alternator up and out of the slotted bracket along with the idler pulley. You may also have to turn the alternator clockwise to get it past the brackets and guide it out from under the intakes.

Note: I'm assuming that you have already removed the protective shield that is visible in your photo, just to the right (as you are facing the alternator from inside the car) and very slightly above the alternator .

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by 1schoir

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Chuck:

On a 986, you are only supposed to be able to loosen the bolt that you have circled in green by three (3) turns. Then, you must tap the bolt with a soft-faced hammer so as to loosen the bushing in the alternator arm. You have to continue tapping that bolt and bushing until the alternator can be slid off the bracket easily.

Then, after you remove the lower alternator bolt (about 7 o'clock on the face of the alternator), you can lift the alternator up and out of the slotted bracket along with the idler pulley. You may also have to turn the alternator clockwise to get it past the brackets and guide it out from under the intakes.

Note: I'm assuming that you have already removed the protective shield that is visible in your photo, just to the right (as you are facing the alternator from inside the car) and very slightly above the alternator .

Regards, Maurice.

thanks maurice - good thing i did not keep turning it for another hour :) now i only hope it goes back in!

i have not removed the protective shield - will do that next.

do i have to take the belt off? or will the tension of the belts be released once i move the alternator around?

thanks,

chuck

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thanks maurice - good thing i did not keep turning it for another hour :) now i only hope it goes back in!

i have not removed the protective shield - will do that next.

do i have to take the belt off? or will the tension of the belts be released once i move the alternator around?

thanks,

chuck

Chuck:

Not sure about the belt. When I replaced the alternator (also on a friend's car) we had already taken off the serpentine belt to replace that as well.

Regards, Maurice.

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You must remove the belt. That is the easiest part : ) I had to slightly bent the lip of the opening to create enough room to get the alternator out as you spin it when removing. There is also a tread here that listed the part number for the voltage regulator. I was able to just get the voltage regulator through a MBZ dealer as they use the same one. (Porsche) does not sell it and its a Bosch part much cheaper than buying an alternator.

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On a 986, you are only supposed to be able to loosen the bolt that you have circled in green by three (3) turns. Then, you must tap the bolt with a soft-faced hammer so as to loosen the bushing in the alternator arm. You have to continue tapping that bolt and bushing until the alternator can be slid off the bracket easily.

i'm stuck (no pun intended) on this part. i see what looks like a bushing on the outside of the inner arm. if i take the bolt out, and shine a light through, i only see threads through the arm and nothing behind it.

should the bolt come out of the arm before tapping on it? so as to press the (rubber?) bushing i think i see? or should the bolt still remain in the threads while tapping it?

thanks,

chuck

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On a 986, you are only supposed to be able to loosen the bolt that you have circled in green by three (3) turns. Then, you must tap the bolt with a soft-faced hammer so as to loosen the bushing in the alternator arm. You have to continue tapping that bolt and bushing until the alternator can be slid off the bracket easily.

i'm stuck (no pun intended) on this part. i see what looks like a bushing on the outside of the inner arm. if i take the bolt out, and shine a light through, i only see threads through the arm and nothing behind it.

should the bolt come out of the arm before tapping on it? so as to press the (rubber?) bushing i think i see? or should the bolt still remain in the threads while tapping it?

thanks,

chuck

I know this thread is old, but I just changed mine out yesterday, and the bushing IS the part with the treads, it is metal. I puonded on the bolt with a rubber mallet as others did, but I guess my bushing was really tight and that did nothing. What I finally did was just use a pry bar unde the alternator and pry the right side up. That did the trick just fine. Also, for anyone else doing this, DO NOT waste you time lossening the bolts for the air intake manifold lik I did! I thought by doing this I would have more roomto work with....which I did, but it added 2 hours to the job for no good reason! Live and learn I guess.....

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On 2/2/2010 at 8:58 AM, GoodVibeGroove said:

I know this thread is old, but I just changed mine out yesterday, and the bushing IS the part with the treads, it is metal. I puonded on the bolt with a rubber mallet as others did, but I guess my bushing was really tight and that did nothing. What I finally did was just use a pry bar unde the alternator and pry the right side up. That did the trick just fine. Also, for anyone else doing this, DO NOT waste you time lossening the bolts for the air intake manifold lik I did! I thought by doing this I would have more roomto work with....which I did, but it added 2 hours to the job for no good reason! Live and learn I guess.....

 

New member here. I used your trick to use ply bar under the alternator to  get it slid off the bracket. When i try to turn the alternator CLOCKWISE to move the swivel arm close to the crackcase (as many of you suggested), i can't get it pass the fastening eye. I guess the bushing is still not "out" enough. any suggestions? i pounded and pounded for hours...

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